I have one but it is hiding on me LOL. I used a metric 30 cm ruler to set the starting points. I went with 305 and 195 for a starting point.
I have one but it is hiding on me LOL. I used a metric 30 cm ruler to set the starting points. I went with 305 and 195 for a starting point.
I just guessed at a mid starting point on mine, put some barbell weights on the drivers seat and floor to equal my weight then adjusted the collars, lowered, rolled the car a few feet back and forth to scrub off any binding in the tires, re-measured and repeated. I did have a lift so lowering & raising was easy. Then after about a month or a litle more I repeated, then 6 months later I decided to raise my car another 1/4". Now after a year I'm pretty happy with my last re-do 6 months ago. I get over speedbumps without rubbing, my camber on the front is improved over my first adjustment (still wears a little extra on the inside fronts but with rotation will give pretty long life).
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
The bentley manual shows how to take things apart fairly well, but did you find you had to remove as much of the suspension components as they show to get the struts out?
The process gets a little involved when you remove the lower guide link just before getting the bolts out of the strut/track control link. For Example it stays when separating the Guide Link from the wheel bearing housing they describe completely removing the guide link and my need to "Lower Subframe in back, IF NECESSARY."
The non-RS6 suspension (A6) is much less involved LOL!
Mike
Yea, to get the rear lower control arms out you will need to drop the sub frame/engine cradle. its actualy not that bad. 3 bolts just near the bushing. I assume youre talking about the front end.
03 RS6 | Daytona Gray on black | KW V3 | Rotiform 19x10 Wheels | REVO ECU | MTM TCU | 170k miles and counting..
"Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want."
OK, Got it!Originally Posted by Aronis
2003 RS 6______________________________________________
Mugello Blue/Silver Interior/Wood Trim/Warm Weather Package/
LED Tail lights/RNS-E/DVD Video/OEM S5 19's/Custom Painted Calipers/Full CAT-Less, Nonresonated Milltek/APR DV's/
H-Sport Sway Bars/5 Bar FPR/ABT Aluminum pedals/MTM TCU Chip
-------Other Rides
2007 Cadillac Escalade
2007 Jeep Compass
2006 Jeep Commander
2006 Chevy Colorado Reg Cab
-------
yes. that's the part I was talking about. Does not look bad but for every extrabolt I run the risk of running into that one fronzen bolt which will make the whole job a big pita... LOL
Mike
I dont think you will have issue with those. Came out quite easy for me, but I had impact gun. Have to use a wrench at least part of the way on the actual control arm bushing bolt.
03 RS6 | Daytona Gray on black | KW V3 | Rotiform 19x10 Wheels | REVO ECU | MTM TCU | 170k miles and counting..
"Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want."
I finally had some time to look things over on the front end of the car.
1. The Plugs up top are melted or glued in but I removed them and I can access the upper strut mount bolts.
Q: who replaced with OEM parts vs some other plugging method?
2. The DRC junction at the checkvalve is a bit tricky to get a wrench on due to its location.
Q: Those who did this job, did you disconnect this fitting before or after the strut was part way out. It looks like it may be easier to get a wrench on that nut easier with the strut out.
3. After looking things over, I do not understand the need to remove the brake caliper to get the bottom link disconnected.
Q: Those who did this job, did you remove the brake caliper or not?
4. Perhaps a dum question.
Q: Has anyone tried compressing the spring with a coil compressor and then tried removing the strut without disconnecting any of the linkages? Perhaps dangerous? Just asking.
5. General thoughts on this one.
Q: Would it be safe to do the front two struts, plug the DRC, and then drive the car with the rear DRC still in place? This way I could split up the job between weekends. I figure the rear DRC would still have whatever remaining pressure and would function 'ok'.
6. Strut upper Spring Seat and Strut Mount for Front and Rear Strut Mount. Priced these, no big deal.
Q: Anyone reuse all of these, replace all, replace just the front Strut Mount (rubber, etc)
Mike
I only was around and helped getting the lines from under the car. So I can only answer 2, 3 and 6
In my case the lines were disconnected with the struts still in place and none of the plugs were used.
They have not removed, or replaced the calipers to remove the struts.
As this "repair" was not really calculated to be done right after the purchase, I was not keen on expanding more costs and after a check by a trusted mechanic I decided I would not replace the upper mounts (front and rear).
BUT right after I had the set in place I had my doubts and still think I should have replaced them at that moment. It would not have cost me any more for the labour as they removed and reinstalled both the mounts again.
Would I drive with only DRC on the rear. I don't think so. I'm not a technician or mechanic, but I think the DRC philosophy is the cross connection between rear and front absorber and when you close the front, the system can not work properly, so the functionality of the rear strut will not be the same. maybe no functionality at all.
That are my 2cts with my logic. But I have noticed my logic is not always the logic others can follow
Micdee, thanks for the feedback.
But as I am still very curious, I will end up doing the front and then take a quick ride down the street! LOL. I have learned a bit about the way the DRC is supposed to work, and the central valves have the capacity to take in the extra fluid from both shocks at the sime if the position of the car requires both to compress at the same time. So with the front plugged, the rear should react as though the front is in a neutral position.
I am ordering the strut mounts and the front upper spring seat tomorrow. That way I can pre assemble both sets of struts and springs at my leasure and save that bit of time at the time of installation.
Do you recall if it was difficult to install the spring seat and strut mount?
Mike
FYI
Part Numbers:
Front Strut Mounts 4D0 412 377 F $56.55
Front Upper Spring Seat AD0 412 065 F $63.86
Rear Strut Mounts 8E0 512 121 D $ 101.97
Yes, Yes, other non OEM are cheaper... in fact the upper strut mounts for the front can be found for $7.95 each! What does Audi charge $56.55 ? I don't know....
Mike
There is really no need for you to purchase new upper spring seats, there just metal and can be re-used. The upper mount is the only part with the rubber bushing in it. The upper strut mount is a beautiful aluminum piece with a non-replaceable rubber bushing. What a waste.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
Its not hard at all if you have a spring compressing tool. Even better if you have one of these..
bottom clamps in, top arms swing onto the spring, and pulls it down so you can remount the strut mount and seat.
03 RS6 | Daytona Gray on black | KW V3 | Rotiform 19x10 Wheels | REVO ECU | MTM TCU | 170k miles and counting..
"Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want."
Now I'm getting a bit confused. In another thread/post you said I better renew the upper strut mounts when I was at it. Do you now think a renewal of the mounts is a waste of money?
No, you should replace the upper strut mount but I was saying there is no reason to replace the upper spring seat. I'm saying that the upper strut mount is a beatiful peace of aluminum which Audi chose to dump money into the design and cost and didn't bother to design it with a replaceable bushing so you have to replace the whole thing which is kind of sad & wasteful.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
Kind of like there torque converter...
2013 Audi S8
Tnx for the explanaition.
I got the upper spring seat also, so I could assemble the strut and spring and have it all ready for installation day, and save a hour messing around with removing old part and reassembling. The extra $125 is worth it from a time standpoint.
I do have a pair of coil compressors...
Yes, the rear strut mount is a nice piece of metal with a nonreplaceable bushing, while the front strut mount (which gets assembled with the upper spring seat) is a separate part.
Mike
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