As many potential buyers are consistently asking questions about maintenance costs, I thought I'd list
my dealer service charges incurred today:
Oil/filter change (I specify 7 units only - not 8) : $110
Replace torn front/right outside CV boot : $252
Replace spark plugs, air filters, cabin filter : $491
GBNF: Mugello, silver, carbon, RNS-E, H&R coilovers, Hotchkiss
'14 GL550
'79 911SC Targa
Serpentine belt replacement; labor $230, part (1 077-903-137-Q) $90, total $320.
Oh, this is too much fun!
Replace HVAC blower motor...$412.27
Alignment....$109.95
Replace N80 valve....$326.17
Replace Torque Converter....$5112.15
Replace Primary O2 sensors...$3158.59
Replace secondary O2 sensors...$3053.72
Replace secondary coolant pump...$2147.93
Replace alternator...$1399.58
Replace EGT sensors...$3553.40
Replace trans filter/refill...$645
To name a few.....
Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's
Ditto on the fun...;0
Fuel Tank & Lines $2,900
Drive Shaft $784
Intake Manifold Gasket leak $1,300
ABS Module $1,800
Cam Adjuster & Position Sensor $2,350
Two Turbos approx $5,000 installed
Window Regulator $400
Repair Oil Coolant Pump Seal $3,000 Parts Less than $100
Just some quick good time memories that pop to the top of the charts
210K miles rolled
Local dealer Barrier Audi quoted the following (all prices after tax):
35k - 2222.93
55k - 1311.73
65k - 454.49
75k - 2282.53
95k - 1311.73
Brakes all around pads and rotors - 2943.90
PPI - 250
Indy mechanic (Redmond European) quoted me the following:
110/hr for labor, all work warrantied for 18 mos. You can bring your own parts, but then you don't get the warranty.
55k - 911.06
75k - 2951.03
Full brakes and rotors + oil change - 2510.95 (oil change is about 140 of that, brake labor is 440)
I doubt Barrier is servicing the timing belt and all the needed rollers and tensioners, plugs, fuel filter and all the other needed items for 2200 dollars. 35 and 75k.
Originally Posted by DreamingOfCars
So far, oil changes & transmission flushes (cost of parts only), KWV3's cost of parts only and trash bin full of newly replaced DRC parts priceless. 35K service on warranty and the car has been rock solid. Now at 66K so next timing belt & roller service, waterpump, serpentine, etc... will be on me. Still hoping for the tranny to go so I can replace it. Some RS6's weren't made on Monday's or Fridays I guess but I've done some other preventive such as partial vacuum line replacement with silicone lines, plugs, MAF's, BOV's.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
Hmmmm, so my beast has 71k on the clock-I'm doing 75k service Monday , stealership quoted 3500.00, a large performance shop in nj quoted me 2700.00, but Phil from detailers domain(who previously owned rs6) had all of his service, tb etc done @ drive autowerks, told me don has worked on many rs6, trust worthy and work done is good. Don quoted me( I literally cut and paste service list) and he quoted me 1700.00. He is also doing coil packs , venair, and k &n-those are not part of that quote
Only had the car ~ 2 months
2 Michelin PS2's $733
75K maint (plus brake flush, power steering flush) $800 labor $1365 parts (independent shop w/ RS 6 expierience)
Inner/Outer Tie Rod $275 parts and labor
N214 Coolant Valve leaking $325 parts and labor
Alignment $160
2008 A4 2.0TQ Quartz Grey Metallic S-Line/Titanium Package
2017 A4 2.0TQ Glacier White Metallic Prestige Sport
2003 RS6 TOTALED.-----Searching for a replacement
Very good news.
Get the MTM TCU chip and ECU reflash with the money you saved. wink Mine is flat out awesome.
We may find out soon in Colorado who's is awesome-est
Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's
For some reason I really like this thread even though it is depressing me. I would like to add a suggestion that if you have the mileage to include that as well.
Being the nerd that I am I wonder if there is enough data to know which parts you should replace together to save on labor, which parts can be hardened and how we can lower the cost of ownship of these cars.
Hehe.....but I can get around corners faster.
And then we shall play 18 holes for 10 bucks a skin.
Chung-many of the quotes listed are what the extended warranty paid for the claim. As a guide....my car has 35k. The only claim on my car in over 2 years has been control arm bushings for 500 bucks. I have done the brakes and 35k service at home.
We may find out soon in Colorado who's is awesome-est
Anything done under warranty will probably be billed at a rate higher than you could find if you shopped it around. My analogy on how the warranty stuff works is akin to medical billing - they probably charge a higher rate and the warranty company pays like 60 cents on the dollar. This is total speculation, but given how much warranties cost I find it hard to believe they would make a profit covering multiple 5k repairs. It makes the warranties seem cheap to us, but something is clearly going on behind the scenes. Also, keep in mind that replacing a 300 dollar part on this car can cost 3k+ because of an engine pull. Some indies can work with you on the price if they know the tricks for not pulling the engine (which isn't always possible).
Your best bet if you want to save money on routine stuff is learn how to do it yourself or find someone who can. Join some local car clubs, as I guarantee a lot of locals work on their own Audis/Porsches/BMWs etc. and they could probably help out. A lot of the threads here talk about places to order parts from at a nice discount. Even if you can't do it yourself, a place like Redmond European will charge you 2 hours of labor for brakes+rotors and lets you bring your own, you just don't get the warranty like I mentioned (but on routine service, I'm not sure this matters). I'll keep you posted on any further info I find out about locally.
The most obvious way to reduce your cost of ownership is to drive it less. Keep a cheap low maintenance car around in addition to this one and use that for longer trips or the 1 mile grocery runs that put more strain on it. I thought about doing this myself, but the garage situation would be kind of annoying.
Only a helpless chump would pay 3k for a brake job. Yes, the parts are expensive, but if you can change a tire and google, man-up, head to the garage, DIY the brakes and save a four figure sum that would be better applied toward a case of Havana Club Aņejo 7 Aņos or whatever.
That was my theory. Then I got hooked on the RS 6 crack pipe and barely touch cars two and three...
My plan is to learn a bit more about the interworkings of the car and do some of the work myself (maybe a fellow Seattle person needs some extra hands in exchange for experience). Not having a place to work on the car is a problem but my aunt in Portland has a lift she will let me use.
BTW I am not trying to complain about the maintenance because I am coming into the car with open eyes. I was so worried about the maintenance cost of the car I decided to take a loan out on it just so I would have extra cash to fix it if the car broke. I am also on the fence about selling my S4 (partly because I love the car and partly because I want something to drive during my RS6 downtimes)
Even when you are not taking the car into a shop I am sure it would be nice to save on the labor by replacing parts that are known to fail at x amount of miles if you are already "in there" (for example an engine pull or replacing a fuel tank). Other things that are interesting to me are items that might leave you stranded (fuel pump, alternator, etc). Fuel pumps on the S4 typically died around the 100k mark and most recommend replacing it before it dies because it sucks to get stranded.
Extended warranty rates are not billed at UCR. Extended warranty reimbursement is generally billed at a discount on parts and labor rates at factory times. There is not a bottom line difference such as medical claims.
All the other points are on target.
yES SIR, WE THINK A LIKE.........
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