Potentially Purchasing C5 RS6 - Advice?

[justinrlee]

Hi,

I'd like to apologize in advance for some pretty newbish questions. I've been browsing the forum but I'd like some opinions.

I'm looking at purchasing a C5 RS6 (Canadian 2004, with 87k miles). DRC has been performed, as has timing belt. I'm not expecting maintenance to be cheap (I've got a a B6 S4), but I was wondering whether there's anything in particular I should be on the lookout for - any major issues that tend to come up. Will mostly be a daily driver, not looking to race or launch or anything, and will mostly be kept stock (in the process of modding the S4). How much should I expect to spend on maintenance for an RS6? Couple thousand a year? Ten times that? Probably gonna put 8-10k miles on it per year or so.

Car had an independent inspection done, few minor issues (need new wipers, brakes need to be looked at), and then this "driver side valve cover has small sweat starting, very minor, but will need attention in 20k or so" - I'll ask for more details on that, but does that sound serious?

For brakes, am I correct in assuming that brake replacement consists of pads + rotors?

I got a quote for Fidelity for 2 year/24k miles.

Anything else I should look into/ be worried about?

Thanks in advance!

Justin

[Father_Flanagan]

Sounds like a really nice car to putz around in while getting to mod an S4. Seems like life for you it isn't too bad, eh?

I am also curious about the sweating valve cover. Is it sweating water or oil?

I have nothing intelligent to add to your other questions, so I will leave those alone, but best of luck!

Father Flanagan

[DHall1]

We got a 2 lot answering questions from a 1 lot.

If the 1 lot did any searching he would fine 3 tons of info.

[JRS-RS6]

Get as long of a Warranty you can afford to get.

[justinrlee]

We got a 2 lot answering questions from a 1 lot.

If the 1 lot did any searching he would fine 3 tons of info.

I actually did search. Thanks.

Found a post about 3 years ago saying no major issues have cropped up except DRC and a very expensive but "rare" transmission replacement. I was wondering whether anything cropped up in the last 3 years.

Also saw a recommendation for Fidelity - exactly the same as the S4 I just picked up. Which is why I'm getting it.

I assume I need rotors and pads when I do brakes, was just hoping for confirmation.

For the S4 there's a big "what you need to know when buying the S4". There's nothing similar here, was hoping for a Cliff notes.

I know a lot of people here have a lot of experience with these. I also know a lot of people here are probably annoyed with newbie questions. I'm sorry.

[justinrlee]

Get as long of a Warranty you can afford to get.

2/24 is the longest they offer - they said they essentially don't warranty much past 100k.

Justin

[JRS-RS6]

I actually did search. Thanks.

Found a post about 3 years ago saying no major issues have cropped up except DRC and a very expensive but "rare" transmission replacement. I was wondering whether anything cropped up in the last 3 years.

Also saw a recommendation for Fidelity - exactly the same as the S4 I just picked up. Which is why I'm getting it.

I assume I need rotors and pads when I do brakes, was just hoping for confirmation.

For the S4 there's a big "what you need to know when buying the S4". There's nothing similar here, was hoping for a Cliff notes.

I know a lot of people here have a lot of experience with these. I also know a lot of people here are probably annoyed with newbie questions. I'm sorry.

For the brakes do a search on EBC Redstuff.

Timing belt is every 35K miles on RS6 and requires pulling the Lock Support to get access.

The valve cover gasket like many other things will most likely require pulling the engine. If you can DIY on most things than you can save on the labor which is most of the costs of ownership from what I have seen so far.

[justinrlee]

For the brakes do a search on EBC Redstuff.

Timing belt is every 35K miles on RS6 and requires pulling the Lock Support to get access.

The valve cover gasket like many other things will most likely require pulling the engine. If you can DIY on most things than you can save on the labor which is most of the costs of ownership from what I have seen so far.

Thanks!

Very helpful.

[Jimmy]

A little weeping is no big deal, try cleaning the area and snugging down the bolts...sometimes that's all is needed. But if you have oil dripping beyond the belly pan then its time to get pro-active.

As for brakes, them rotors OE are sure expensive, even at shop prices...pads you can find a set for all the wheels for $150 to your door I bet. EBC Reds or the Posi Centrics seem to be better products than OE. I just did all the rotors and pads (the Posi Centrics) on mine as the car is new to me (and needed it badly)...I'm at 86K. I guess I could have re-surfaced them like many other folks here have done but I wanted new thick stuff as I plan to track it come spring. But I plan to be good for the next 7 years and 80K at least, hopefully.

Enjoy your new car ! ...I think you'll find it none the worse to maintain then your S4 (and not unlike my C5 allroad 2.7TT), although some parts are just too darn expensive on this rare Audi to replace unless absolutely necessary. Just my 2 cents...

[DHall1]

Justin,

I was joking with ya. If you read some threads this is a pretty good group that spreads a ton of info. We are punchy at times and like to give each other some ribbing. All good fun.

Valve covers.....if the left side is leaking the right side is the same you just cant see it. The RS is the one that needs to pull the engine.

Transmission....plan on a rebuild/torque converter replacement at your miles. long story just search torque converter.

brakes.....expect to replace the whole shootin match rotors and pads. again if you cant do the basic work...the markup will kill you. if you can do the basic work you can buy the rotors at discount and slap them on yourself. still diy expect 700 dollar front brake pad and rotor repl.

Generally the cars are reliable but your getting in at higher miles. Its a crap shoot at that mileage. esp if you put lots of miles on the car.

timing belts every 35k. If you cant do this job.....shops like to rape RS6 owners up to 3500 bucks for the complete service. If you can diy....700 but its a major job.

Overall Its your comfort level and risk.

I always say to search for the lowest mile RS6 you can find and buy the longest term ext warranty you can afford. The lower the mile car the cheaper the ext warranty and longer you can get it covered.

You are coming in late on the RS6 and its getting harder and harder to find low mile clean cars. buy on in the US and ship it up to Canada

I actually did search. Thanks.

Found a post about 3 years ago saying no major issues have cropped up except DRC and a very expensive but "rare" transmission replacement. I was wondering whether anything cropped up in the last 3 years.

Also saw a recommendation for Fidelity - exactly the same as the S4 I just picked up. Which is why I'm getting it.

I assume I need rotors and pads when I do brakes, was just hoping for confirmation.

For the S4 there's a big "what you need to know when buying the S4". There's nothing similar here, was hoping for a Cliff notes.

I know a lot of people here have a lot of experience with these. I also know a lot of people here are probably annoyed with newbie questions. I'm sorry.

[justinrlee]

As for brakes, them rotors OE are sure expensive, even at shop prices...pads you can find a set for all the wheels for $150 to your door I bet. EBC Reds or the Posi Centrics seem to be better products than OE. I just did all the rotors and pads (the Posi Centrics) on mine as the car is new to me (and needed it badly)...I'm at 86K. I guess I could have re-surfaced them like many other folks here have done but I wanted new thick stuff as I plan to track it come spring. But I plan to be good for the next 7 years and 80K at least, hopefully.

Enjoy your new car ! ...I think you'll find it none the worse to maintain then your S4 (and not unlike my C5 allroad 2.7TT), although some parts are just too darn expensive on this rare Audi to replace unless absolutely necessary. Just my 2 cents...

I plan on keeping this.. for a long long time. Good to know. Found the EBC's for 175, that looks promising. And I'll probably go with JHM rotors link, I've got their S4 front BBK and I'm overall pretty happy with them.

Valve covers.....if the left side is leaking the right side is the same you just cant see it. The RS is the one that needs to pull the engine.

Transmission....plan on a rebuild/torque converter replacement at your miles. long story just search torque converter.

brakes.....expect to replace the whole shootin match rotors and pads. again if you cant do the basic work...the markup will kill you. if you can do the basic work you can buy the rotors at discount and slap them on yourself. still diy expect 700 dollar front brake pad and rotor repl.

Generally the cars are reliable but your getting in at higher miles. Its a crap shoot at that mileage. esp if you put lots of miles on the car.

timing belts every 35k. If you cant do this job.....shops like to rape RS6 owners up to 3500 bucks for the complete service. If you can diy....700 but its a major job.

Overall Its your comfort level and risk.

I always say to search for the lowest mile RS6 you can find and buy the longest term ext warranty you can afford. The lower the mile car the cheaper the ext warranty and longer you can get it covered.

You are coming in late on the RS6 and its getting harder and harder to find low mile clean cars. buy on in the US and ship it up to Canada

I'm actually buying a car for California. Seller is in Nevada but he's got a Canadian car (go figure). He says it's essentially been in Southern USA (Florida and Nevada) for all it's life, which is a good sign. It's a pretty good price for the miles (I think - 22k for 87k miles), just a few small issues, and also the Canadian km vs miles on the speedo, although I'm sure I can compensate for that.

Tranny was replaced 8k ago, so that's good. Valve covers I'll look into. I don't have the space to do the work myself (otherwise I would) but I know the local indie shop did all four of my S4 brakes for just under 600, so I think they'll give me a pretty reasonable price for the RS6 fronts - I don't think they'd be much more difficult (if at all). Pre-inspection said about 50% on pads, so I'm probably good for another 10k? at least, and then I figure ~800 for rotors, ~200 for pads, ~500 for labor is reasonable.

Belt was done about 25k ago, so I figure it's coming up but not right away.

Sorry, I didn't sleep last night so I was a bit touchy. No hard feelings

[eurotunedrs6]

You must be looking at the on posted on audizine and other forums. $18k is a pretty good deal. Get a hold of the service records before you make to purchase. Those will tell you a lot by themselves. With the mileage I would be paranoid about the torque converter myself. Mine has 20k less than yours but I'm still worried about. Worse case scenario, get a warranty that will cover it. Speaking of warranties you should shop around for them....fidelity has gone through the roof this past month so you might be able to save a few bucks that way.

[justinrlee]

You must be looking at the on posted on audizine and other forums. $18k is a pretty good deal. Get a hold of the service records before you make to purchase. Those will tell you a lot by themselves. With the mileage I would be paranoid about the torque converter myself. Mine has 20k less than yours but I'm still worried about. Worse case scenario, get a warranty that will cover it. Speaking of warranties you should shop around for them....fidelity has gone through the roof this past month so you might be able to save a few bucks that way.

Yeah that's the one. I honestly don't plan on pushing the car that hard so hopefully the tranny will hold up. Question on failing torque converter: is there generally signs that it's headed out? Or is it more like it works one day, doesn't work the next.

Also, what's the word on aftermarket warranties? I've generally heard that Fidelity (through Audi) is expensive but good, and US Fidelis is a scam. CNA National good? Anything else highly recommended?

[DHall1]

If I can post a picture of a monkey smoking a cig as my mug then my skin is pretty thick. Just dont tell me I am wrong about a torque converter diagnosis and we are fine.

Now this car your looking at has had some major items replaced already. Hmmm, it could be a good deal if that is your price point and your willing to bank some money for potential future repairs.

Brakes at 50% means change the pads NOW, RIGHT NOW if they are stock pads. again long story. Just slap on some EBC reds and leave the rotors for now. 150 bucks.

good luck

I plan on keeping this.. for a long long time. Good to know. Found the EBC's for 175, that looks promising. And I'll probably go with JHM rotors link, I've got their S4 front BBK and I'm overall pretty happy with them.



I'm actually buying a car for California. Seller is in Nevada but he's got a Canadian car (go figure). He says it's essentially been in Southern USA (Florida and Nevada) for all it's life, which is a good sign. It's a pretty good price for the miles (I think - 22k for 87k miles), just a few small issues, and also the Canadian km vs miles on the speedo, although I'm sure I can compensate for that.

Tranny was replaced 8k ago, so that's good. Valve covers I'll look into. I don't have the space to do the work myself (otherwise I would) but I know the local indie shop did all four of my S4 brakes for just under 600, so I think they'll give me a pretty reasonable price for the RS6 fronts - I don't think they'd be much more difficult (if at all). Pre-inspection said about 50% on pads, so I'm probably good for another 10k? at least, and then I figure ~800 for rotors, ~200 for pads, ~500 for labor is reasonable.

Belt was done about 25k ago, so I figure it's coming up but not right away.

Sorry, I didn't sleep last night so I was a bit touchy. No hard feelings

[DHall1]

bada bing

http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread....ms+problem+rs6

http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread....ms+problem+rs6

http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread....ms+problem+rs6

[Brazil]

The valve cover gasket like many other things will most likely require pulling the engine.

That's entirely false. Luckily the leak is in the driver's side (aka "Left") valve cover gasket. That one can be changed without pulling the engine.

Here's a list of "standard" things that require an engine pull:
Right Valve Cover Gasket
Right EGT Sensor
Either Primary O2 Sensor
Torque Converter

Many other things can be changed without a pull.

[RS6-4dr911]

That's entirely false. Luckily the leak is in the driver's side (aka "Left") valve cover gasket. That one can be changed without pulling the engine.

Here's a list of "standard" things that require an engine pull:
Right Valve Cover Gasket
Right EGT Sensor
Either Primary O2 Sensor
Torque Converter

Many other things can be changed without a pull.

Passenger side valve cover gasket can also be done without engine pull - just had it done a few months ago. Still a lot of work but no pull required.

[Brazil]

Passenger side valve cover gasket can also be done without engine pull - just had it done a few months ago. Still a lot of work but no pull required.

Yeah, I heard that as well, but since I haven't done it myself (will be doing it soon with TB/WP/etc), I was just going off of the bentley manual.

I guess it just takes a few more hours to remove all the items that are in the way. haha.

Looking forward to ripping everything apart and getting to know the car as intimately as I know the others, especially the Esprit.