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Thread: Alternator replacement

  1. #91
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    Got the alternator out last night; add PB B'laster or WD40 to your list of necessary tools for this job. I wiggled the little guy back and forth for a while before coming back and reading this thread again. Doused the bracket in PB, let it sit for a few, and it popped right out! On it's way to Kaestner for a rebuild now...
    2017 Subaru BRZ Limited w/ Performance Pack 6MT
    2003 Audi RS 6 quattro 5AT - sold

  2. #92
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    Got the alternator back from Kaestner Auto Electric on Monday and installed it that evening; fixed!! Tom at Kaestner was extremely helpful; the customer service is excellent and I highly recommend them as an alternative to buying a $600 reman from Audi if you have the luxury of time. Total damage including shipping both ways was ~$230; I estimate at least $55 of that was shipping. They rebuilt the unit and installed a new Bosch voltage regulator. Tom explained to me that my alternator tested properly but the Huco voltage regulator my indy tech put in might have been incorrect, causing it to not function properly. This ticks me off a little since I explained to my tech that I wanted to use the Bosch in the first place and he went with the Huco which was available that day. I don't know if anyone else has had success with the Huco regulator, but be wary at any rate! Installation was slightly less difficult than removal as I didn't have to wrestle with it as much to get it in as I did to get it out.
    2017 Subaru BRZ Limited w/ Performance Pack 6MT
    2003 Audi RS 6 quattro 5AT - sold

  3. #93
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Glad to hear it, thanks for the good information!
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  4. #94
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    Almost done with this diy. Just to clarify, the two metal oil lines need to be removed from the filter housing right? Anybody know what size wrench it takes? I'm thinking one of the vertical 90 degree plumbers wrenches should work.
    Daytona Grey/ Ebony/Carbon | APR ECU/TCU | Wagner intercoolers, silicone hoses | Clampco T-bolts | APR axel back exhaust | Apikol MAF seal | 18x9.5 STR 609s | 265/35 Michelin PSS | Hotchkis sway bars |

  5. #95
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here are the oil lines I'm referencing.
    Daytona Grey/ Ebony/Carbon | APR ECU/TCU | Wagner intercoolers, silicone hoses | Clampco T-bolts | APR axel back exhaust | Apikol MAF seal | 18x9.5 STR 609s | 265/35 Michelin PSS | Hotchkis sway bars |

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS Sick View Post
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    Here are the oil lines I'm referencing.
    I'm pretty sure I use a 27mm crow foot on these. I can check tonight to be sure
    2010 GTI - 2004 Silver S4 Avant 6MT -> 2.7T project
    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line
    1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 Super Sport -> cafe racer project on the mothballs

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveKen View Post
    I'm pretty sure I use a 27mm crow foot on these. I can check tonight to be sure
    Wasn't it 32mm?
    I'm not sure either.

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveKen View Post
    I'm pretty sure I use a 27mm crow foot on these. I can check tonight to be sure
    Forgot to post last night.

    I can confirm it is 27mm
    2010 GTI - 2004 Silver S4 Avant 6MT -> 2.7T project
    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line
    1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 Super Sport -> cafe racer project on the mothballs

  9. #99
    Registered User RS Sick's Avatar
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    Thank you sir!
    Daytona Grey/ Ebony/Carbon | APR ECU/TCU | Wagner intercoolers, silicone hoses | Clampco T-bolts | APR axel back exhaust | Apikol MAF seal | 18x9.5 STR 609s | 265/35 Michelin PSS | Hotchkis sway bars |

  10. #100
    Registered User G2's Avatar
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    I use a 1-1/16" 12pt Crow foot by Snap-On.
    Cheers, G2/Gary
    C5-RS6/KWV3/Revo/H20 Inj./Custom BBK/Custom cooling/CNC arms \ VW Touareg V10 \ B7A4 2.0T Avant \ Mk1 Callaway Scirocco \ audirs6parts@gmail.com / www.oilpro.myamsoil.com

  11. #101
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    Just did my alternator last week. Standard 27mm crows foot did the job, and a 27mm spanner crows foot showed up after I was done. You have slightly more room on the farthest passenger (right side) line. So, loosen it first and get the 'nut' out of the way for the other. Putting it together do the left side first then the right.

    They say you don't have to do service position to get in there, but I did anyway (including the intake plenum). I was glad I did because it took about 50 hard whacks with a BFH and a 3 foot rod to get the freakin' alternator out of there. Hit it 10 times, climb under, rotate with a pry bar, hit it 10 times... I actually broke part of the casing beating on the stupid thing. I measured the distance between the ears (or the little nutsert) and the old one was a full .030" less than the new one. New one fit snug, but not tight like it should.

    Additionally, it's always bothered me I didn't do some kind of wrap while doing the timing belt. Casting tape for fun Yes, I know it's goofy.

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  12. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradP View Post
    Just did my alternator last week. Standard 27mm crows foot did the job, and a 27mm spanner crows foot showed up after I was done. You have slightly more room on the farthest passenger (right side) line. So, loosen it first and get the 'nut' out of the way for the other. Putting it together do the left side first then the right.

    They say you don't have to do service position to get in there, but I did anyway (including the intake plenum). I was glad I did because it took about 50 hard whacks with a BFH and a 3 foot rod to get the freakin' alternator out of there. Hit it 10 times, climb under, rotate with a pry bar, hit it 10 times... I actually broke part of the casing beating on the stupid thing. I measured the distance between the ears (or the little nutsert) and the old one was a full .030" less than the new one. New one fit snug, but not tight like it should.

    Additionally, it's always bothered me I didn't do some kind of wrap while doing the timing belt. Casting tape for fun Yes, I know it's goofy.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The nut on the back of the alternator housing that the long bolt goes through is actually a steel sleeve in the aluminum housing.

    When the bolt is tightened, the sleeve pinches and makes it really hard to remove from the hanger that it attaches to. If you have access to the front, you can loosen the long bolt a couple threads and hit the screw head with a hammer to push the sleeve back a bit and gain some clearance. Just don't damage the screw head when hitting it.

    When re-installing the new alternator, you can press the sleeve back to get some clearance or do it on a bench with the long screw inserted and hit it again. You just have to be careful that you don't break the lauminum components.
    2010 GTI - 2004 Silver S4 Avant 6MT -> 2.7T project
    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line
    1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 Super Sport -> cafe racer project on the mothballs

  13. #103
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    I personally find the additional hour it takes to put the front clip in to service position is well offset with a reduction in time to R&R the alternator. In similar fashion as trying to remove the tranny without removing the entire powerplant as a whole, this is one of those repairs that benefits from putting the front clip in service position.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

  14. #104
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    Guys,

    I am having an alternator or voltage regulator issue on my RS. Can the voltage regulator be replaced fairly easily without removing the actual alternator?

    Thanks,
    Paul

  15. #105
    Registered User 4.2Crew's Avatar
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    No...

    Good news tho: Assembly can be removed (with some finesse) without placing the carrier in the service position. AND, the alt/regulator can be rebuilt for under $150 by automotive electric service shops.
    2003 RS6 l SE Exhaust l Koni Yellow Sports w/stock springs l Lowered 1"F 1.25"R l EPL Tuned l 19 x 9.5 VMR V713 & 265 PSS's l 50% window tint l Protective film on entire hood, bumper and front quarter panels l

  16. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by EINHORN View Post
    Figured I'd bring this one back to the land of the living as a 'simple' voltage regulator replacement brought Einhorn back from the dead. The bosch part number listed at RMEuropean.com - Bosch # 0031546506 is the one.

    Thanks to those who've gone before

    I just replaced my voltage regulator also. Got it from RMEuropean.com Brought it back from 11.5v to 14.4v!
    Also many thanks to those who have gone before!

  17. #107
    Registered User Brazil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4.2Crew View Post
    No...

    Good news tho: Assembly can be removed (with some finesse) without placing the carrier in the service position. AND, the alt/regulator can be rebuilt for under $150 by automotive electric service shops.
    This is actually incorrect. The VR can be replaced without removing the alternator or undoing the acc belt. Oil lines come loose like the procedure above. The plastic cover over the back of the alternator can be partially removed and flexed up and out of the way without removing the top nut. Then, the VR can be removed and replaced, be careful not to strip the phillips heads. This obviously only works if the VR has failed and the rest of the unit does not need a rebuild. Mine has been perfect for a month after just doing the VR.

    Good luck.
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  18. #108
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    Holy crap Brazil, you still around. Haven't seen you here in years. Wife gotten you working overtime?
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

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