Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst ... 34567 LastLast
Results 73 to 90 of 111

Thread: Alternator replacement

  1. #73
    Registered User Other_Erik's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    852
    Quote Originally Posted by audiprotn View Post
    Got mine for $180
    Sent back my old one (core).
    Would recommend this company
    And they actually have/had one in stock? Lucky! Everyone I tried had zero stock.
    #905530 - Brilliant Black on Ebony. Sorted, running strong, ready for a new owner.
    No, I am not the board admin - that's Erik (from Sweden), I'm Other_Erik (from the US)

  2. #74
    Registered User audiprotn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    270
    In stock, and fast processing. That was a year ago. I would call them with any questions.

  3. #75
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    381
    03 RS6 Avus/Ebony #905593 resurrected 6MT, 04 Avalanche Z71, 87 T-Bird Turbo Coupe (351W T5), 04 Aprilia RSVR Factory

  4. #76
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    North of Boston
    Posts
    410
    That looks like it was found underwater. What is the minimum voltage while running and driving? I'm seeing 13.2/13.3 which I think is too low. Upon starting my car it runs at 12v for about 30 seconds. My battery light is faintly lit. Mechanic put a new voltage regulator in a while back. I think I need a new alternator. But I'll have to check the voltage at the alternator.

  5. #77
    Registered User Other_Erik's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    852
    Quote Originally Posted by UrS6 View Post
    That looks like it was found underwater. What is the minimum voltage while running and driving? I'm seeing 13.2/13.3 which I think is too low. Upon starting my car it runs at 12v for about 30 seconds. My battery light is faintly lit. Mechanic put a new voltage regulator in a while back. I think I need a new alternator. But I'll have to check the voltage at the alternator.
    Minimum voltage should be 13.4-13.6. Brand new out of the box the Vset is supposed to give 14.3v.

    From the symptoms you're talking about (12v on startup, ramp to 13.2-13.3 once warmed up), it sounds like you have a good Vset in, but likely need brushes and bearings. Rebuild cost from Kaestner will likely be in the $225-275 range. If maniacelectricmotors can do better pricing and have a forward replacement, more power to them.

    I did finally get my 2-hours-used alternator back yesterday and am willing to send out on the conditions above, dibs to Turbowned since he's been asking the longest. $500 to my PayPal, with $150 refund once I get the core back.

    O_E
    #905530 - Brilliant Black on Ebony. Sorted, running strong, ready for a new owner.
    No, I am not the board admin - that's Erik (from Sweden), I'm Other_Erik (from the US)

  6. #78
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    ocean state
    Posts
    236
    maniac didn't have any when I was looking.

  7. #79
    Registered User ryan4186's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    8
    I followed all the steps here and successfully uninstalled all nearby hoses, sway bar, the two wires and the two bolts holding the alternator on. When the alternator was seemingly "free", I cannot for the life of me get it to come out. It appears the two "ears" the come up from the alternator housing and line up with the support brace for the top bolt to slide through - that bolt is removed and not broken - the alternator will pivot back and forth on this point, but I cannot get it to come down. I've tried wiggling it back and forth for almost an hour, wrapping a belt around it and using a bar to leverage it down, and pulling from various angles with a pry bar - ultimately about 3 hours with 2 guys pulling at it a dozen ways. It won't come lose. Does anyone has any wisdom for this? Maybe something super simple that we're missing I hope, but at this point, if I can't figure out how to remove it I will have to get a flat bed and have it hauled to a shop.

  8. #80
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    2,405
    Ryan,
    I had a similar experience. Maybe yours is a bit worse. I ended up getting pissed of enough that I just started jerking HARD on a large pry bar, and I saw it coming out. It is literally just wedged in those ears. I would spray some very good penetrating lube on it and pry more. Good luck.

    Upon reinstallation, I sanded off some of the material in the alternator to get it back in better. This was all on my first rs6. Now totaled and disappeared.
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

  9. #81
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Battle Ground, WA
    Posts
    332
    I can second what 4everRS said. I had my engine out and still struggled, it was literally just squeezed so tight it felt like it was still bolted. When I reinstalled it I also sanded it a bit as 4everRS mentioned.
    RS6 #1, 01E, 2.5" straight pipes, AMD Stage 1 6MT tune, 460awhp/530awtq on AMD's Mustang dyno. TOTALLED.. RS6 #2, Ebony Black Pearl on black/silver combination with carbon, up and running with 6 gears and AMD tune.

  10. #82
    Registered User 4.2Crew's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    333
    I will third what Kyle (4everRS) and P1054 stated.... I too resorted to a pry bar to lever the bitch downward while pivoting it back and forth. Once out, I chamfered the ears using a file to facilitate re-installation as Kyle suggested. Good luck and don't give up!
    2003 RS6 l SE Exhaust l Koni Yellow Sports w/stock springs l Lowered 1"F 1.25"R l EPL Tuned l 19 x 9.5 VMR V713 & 265 PSS's l 50% window tint l Protective film on entire hood, bumper and front quarter panels l

  11. #83
    Registered User Other_Erik's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    852
    Haven't had the pleasure of replacing my alternator myself, but I did have fun with getting the wrong part from a reseller...

    Apparently somewhere along the lines, there was an issue with an interchange part number being circulated. The interchange number (0124615008) is listed as compatible with the RS6, but it is not. The shaft is too short, not thick enough, and is recessed into the housing about 8 millimeters. The correct part number is Audi P/N 077903015R. I managed to track down the ETKA parts listing thanks to Jim Ellis parts site, and the pulley is also a different part number (since it's made to fit a wider shaft) - 077903119F

    I'm still sorting out the mayhem that all caused when I tried to do a local guy a solid by handing over my bench spare. Kaestner Auto Electric is now rebuilding said spare to have the proper parts for the next time around.

    Lesson of the day - if you need an alternator, don't use the interchange part. Audi OE only, P/N 077903015R - accept no substitutes.

    O_E
    #905530 - Brilliant Black on Ebony. Sorted, running strong, ready for a new owner.
    No, I am not the board admin - that's Erik (from Sweden), I'm Other_Erik (from the US)

  12. #84
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA area
    Posts
    1,263
    The problem with getting them in/out is pretty universal with all the Audi platforms. The rear of the alternator where the long bolt threads in is a sleeve that ends up getting pulled towards the front when the long bolt is tightened.

    Once you wiggle it out, you can press or gently tap the sleeve away from the front side of the alternator and it becomes easier to get back in.

    On a similar note, I'm experimenting with an alternate alternator to see if the abundant 4.2 one (in the A8s among other ones) will work with the RS6 regulator. I think that ht only difference in the regulator is that the connector is different? I'm not sure what else it would be. Why they would have made the RS6 one specific from the other 4.2 alternators is beyond me. They're all 200A, correct?
    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
    2001 Honda S2000 - 1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 - 1965 GMC 1500 WideSide

  13. #85
    Registered User Other_Erik's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    852
    Quote Originally Posted by SteveKen View Post
    The problem with getting them in/out is pretty universal with all the Audi platforms. The rear of the alternator where the long bolt threads in is a sleeve that ends up getting pulled towards the front when the long bolt is tightened.

    Once you wiggle it out, you can press or gently tap the sleeve away from the front side of the alternator and it becomes easier to get back in.

    On a similar note, I'm experimenting with an alternate alternator to see if the abundant 4.2 one (in the A8s among other ones) will work with the RS6 regulator. I think that ht only difference in the regulator is that the connector is different? I'm not sure what else it would be. Why they would have made the RS6 one specific from the other 4.2 alternators is beyond me. They're all 200A, correct?

    150A, not 200. From my experience with the "interchange" part, there's a difference in the input shaft length, diameter, and depth, as well as the pulley being a different part (to snug to the larger shaft in the RS6 specific alternator)

    If you can find a better way, I'm all for it, especially if we can have a higher-output alternator... HID fog lights, here I come!

    O_E
    #905530 - Brilliant Black on Ebony. Sorted, running strong, ready for a new owner.
    No, I am not the board admin - that's Erik (from Sweden), I'm Other_Erik (from the US)

  14. #86
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Posts
    783
    Alright, I'm towing mine home tomorrow and DIY'ing this job. My indy's quoting me $1200 for parts/labor for alt and battery and I just can't justify that when I can spend $100 on a tow, $2-250+shipping for Kaestner to rebuild, and cost+10% on the battery considering I work for Firestone now (pity I can't work on my own car on the lifts at work).

    Question: when unbolting the oil cooler lines, do you have to disconnect them and drain the oil or just unbolt them from their mounting position?
    2017 Subaru BRZ Limited w/ Performance Pack 6MT
    2003 Audi RS 6 quattro 5AT - sold

  15. #87
    Registered User 4.2Crew's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    333
    Quote Originally Posted by Turbowned View Post
    Question: when unbolting the oil cooler lines, do you have to disconnect them and drain the oil or just unbolt them from their mounting position?
    Just unbolt and gently move the lines to the side----no need to drain.
    2003 RS6 l SE Exhaust l Koni Yellow Sports w/stock springs l Lowered 1"F 1.25"R l EPL Tuned l 19 x 9.5 VMR V713 & 265 PSS's l 50% window tint l Protective film on entire hood, bumper and front quarter panels l

  16. #88
    Registered User LIRS6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    640
    Quote Originally Posted by Turbowned View Post
    Alright, I'm towing mine home tomorrow and DIY'ing this job. My indy's quoting me $1200 for parts/labor for alt and battery and I just can't justify that when I can spend $100 on a tow, $2-250+shipping for Kaestner to rebuild, and cost+10% on the battery considering I work for Firestone now (pity I can't work on my own car on the lifts at work).

    Question: when unbolting the oil cooler lines, do you have to disconnect them and drain the oil or just unbolt them from their mounting position?
    my issue was regulator only - replaced it for $35 or so - you may want to try that first before spending $200-250 on re-building it, not to mention the down time while in transit
    GBNF: Mugello, silver, carbon, RNS-E, H&R coilovers, Hotchkiss
    '14 GL550
    '79 911SC Targa

  17. #89
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Cowtown, AB
    Posts
    2,232
    Regulator can be swapped out in-situ also depending on your tools and size of hands.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

  18. #90
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Posts
    783
    Tried swapping the regulator to no avail. Got it home today and put a fresh battery in it, now the car won't start; just turns over and immediately dies. I started a new thread...
    2017 Subaru BRZ Limited w/ Performance Pack 6MT
    2003 Audi RS 6 quattro 5AT - sold

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •