Front brake pad replacement

[uncfrk]

I'm having a difficult time getting my 2nd new pad in place (lower outside) The top outside went in fine. I noticed that the old pad was extremely tight coming out & the backing plate stayed behind and was distorted. After wire brushing and cleaning the contact areas, I'm still not able to get the new pad in. It appears that the small sheet metal shield at the bottom of the pad opening on the caliper has brake crude embedded under it making the pad opening too small. It appears to be held in by a small button, hex head cap screw. I haven't determined if it is actually is a screw or if it is some kind of a rivet or ??? I'm concerned that is it breaks off, i'll have a real mess on my hands. Does anyone have experience removing this piece? I searched the forum for answers and did not find anything.

[DHall1]

Frank,

I only have a second but a picture may help your cause

[uncfrk]

Note the button head near the bottom of the picture

[DHall1]

Gently file that shield and file the end of the backing plate of the pad.

file by hand with a flat metal file.

[uncfrk]

That's what I did to get the top one in. This one has a long way to go. I'm afraid I'll file clear through if I can't get the brake crude out from beneath the shield.

[Spidercat]

Do you have any Brakleen sp? (brake kleen) to blast all the crud out? I think any penetrating oil with a straw attachment would help clean up the field to help you see a little better (if you can't get to the autoparts store for the Brakleen--I realize you're kinda without brakes right now...)
Are you putting the EBCs on, OEM, or other? If EBCs, I think there's a thread for where the EBCs need to be dremeled (with pix). Search EBC + dremel.

[DHall1]

Frank,

File more from the backing plate of the pad. There is plenty of material as you are just facing the leading edge 1mm.

Do not file too much of the caliper plate.

[uncfrk]

Sounds good, I'll try to clean a little more with brake cleaner, measure the distance and grind in about .005 clearance on the pad.

Thanks for all the help.

My Daughter is here from Nebraska. I'll be busy tomorrow getting her TT ready for Winter. Oil change, brake pads, and change to new Winter wheels and tires.

Back to the RS6 Sunday so I can get it ready to take to Minneapolis for the DRC.

[uncfrk]

I finished the front right side brakes. All of the suggestions really helped. The right front is properly completed except that the new red pad warning wire is located under the spring and will soon not work. I'm thinking of just clipping it.

The left front is a little more of a challenge. The spring retaining pins have become one with the caliper. They will have to be drilled. Also, the crude build up under the end shields is much worse and will not allow the pads in with the backing plates. I have temporarily installed the pads with out the backing plates so i can move the car. They don't seem that loose. I removed the caliper & replaced the pads from the inside. Actually, thats not a bad way of replacing pads.

Eventually, I will remove the caliper to drill the pins. I will probably build my own pins. I'm thinking of building a fixture that will allow the drilling and counter boring to accept my pins without having to disconnect the brake line. If that works, the fixture will be available to all the diy'ers.

What needs to be done to disable the brake pad replacement light? I can connect the 2 wire by using an electrical nut, or can I disable it with my Vag-com?

[DHall1]

http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread....bc+red+install

Frank,

I think you may be trying to install the wrong plates. I will call you.

[DonS]

Did you all resolve this sensor wire and retaining spring conflict issue? I just swapped my front from stock to Centric pads. The wire was an issue for me too when I tried the right pad on the left side! The retaining spring clip looks symetric so I can't imagine it is at fault.

[uncfrk]

I managed to remove the end backing plates by removing the 3 small button head screws. It had a very substantial build up under the plates. I removed the build up. I was fortunate not to break the screws. The small sockets were difficult to get clean enough for the allen wrench. I had one on the drivers side that I had to drive a torx into to remove. The screws are 5 mm x 10 mm long. The pads now fit in properly. I've driven 3,000 miles since with no problems. Only needed new rotors for the rear. The retaining spring does interfer with the wire up front. When the light comes on, I'll tie the 2 wires and monitor the pads visually if the wire breaks prematurely. I think you could cut the wire, twist it together, drill a small hole in a better location on the pad material, press in the wires. When the pad wears, it will break the contact thus sending the warning. I have purchased pin material to build my own pad retaining pins. (Winter project - too busy now)