First off, we have over 30 RS6's in my service area, so they have been doing many of these already, so i expected good results.
To my eye, heights all look even and overall height similar to prior, so far so good. Ride firmer, turn in response very crisp.... more good. But I can't help but notice that steering takes more effort. I mean turning the wheel (esp. at slower speeds) requires a tad more effort than before. weird.
Am I imagining this? Anyone else notice this?
just took her for another spin. overall, its a lot tighter, and i wonder if this harder/tighter feeling at slow speeds (like turning into my driveway) is the way the thing was supposed to feel all along? overall, I dig it
Yes
Now you have a real RS6.
Enjoy
Originally Posted by Rad-RS6
I assume you had this done at Carousel?
Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's
HA, that's what I thought. But I have a confession to make, I hardly ever drive it outside of winter, preferring the boosted E36 M3 vert (400whp, rwd, 3300# curb weight), so in all fairness, it had been many weeks to months since I drove her.
Yes, carousel did it
I found that i thought my steering was rather heavy after stepping back into from the newer Audi loaner cars that have much more assist at slow speeds (variable assist)...i could steer the A4 and the Q7 with one finger at parking lot speeds...not so much in the RS6.
2 weeks with new DRC and i'm happy with it.
2012 R8 GT #275 Suzuka, 2014 RS7 Suzuka/Lunar Silver, 2013 RS5 Suzuka/Lunar Silver
2000 Audi TT Neiman Marcus Edition #47, 1960 Cadillac Eldorado Biarritz Convertible
Past...03 RS6, 10 S5 Cabriolet, 00 NMTT #25, 94 Audi Cabriolet
Just picked up my car from fix #2 (first was the initial repair and new struts/shocks, then #2 to re-lower the car). The car sits 14 3/4" from center of hub to the fender in the rear and 14 1/8" in the front. Not much of an improvement from before, although I do run without the spare tire/tool kit and I do have the Odyssey 925T battery which is 39# lighter than stock so I'm looking at a weight savings off the rear end of about 100#'s which may be the reason mine is a little higher than others? Made my decision after the pickup today for the KW V3 install to begin in early Oktober, DRC heading for the dump.
I did feel that after having the car lowered slightly that is was softer than when I picked it up from the initial repair 2 weeks ago?
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
Please give me right of first refusal on taking those parts off your hands when you do this project!!!
No problem SAF, they'll be yours.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
Thanks, I would greatly appreciate it. In the meantime, good luck!
Dear hahnmgh63,
is your car running with OE springs?
Qisha
Yes mine had the original DRC up through 56,000 miles. Some slight seeping started about 10K ago from the rear shocks with an occaisonal clunking noise. I purchased the full KW V3 setup as well as all new control arms about 1 month before Audi announced the DRC recall. I decided to hold off on the KW install until I saw how the recall was going. Initial DRC recall experiences were mixed and continue to be that way. Two weeks ago my car was firmer than before when I picked it up from the dealer (Initial recall fix) but the ride height was 15 1/8" from the center of the rear axle hub to the bottom of the fender flare. Now that they have worked on it again to lower it down (14 3/4" measurement), it seems softer than two weeks ago. And it is higher than originally. There is a noticeable gap between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fender flare (factory circumfrence 19x8.5 BBS RS-GT wheels w/255/35-19" tires). The car looks to be sitting high at both end although higher in the rear. I asked the dealer if they could go any lower but they said that was all they could do so in a couple of months when I get the time it will be KW V3's with all new control arms and the brand new DRC will be gone.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
Dear hahnmgh63,
i am confused about the fact that so many dealers still mishandle the repair procedure. The guide point for point shows each step to be taken. All specifics and warnings are highlighted. Obviously the DRC has not been evacuated properly and/or filled with the correct pressure.
I know about proper repair jobs done here:
Audi North Scottsdale
18088 N Scottsdale Road
Phoenix, AZ 85054, United States
+1 480-538-4000
Maybe it is a option for your local dealer to contact the techs over there. These guys do know how to handle the DRC repair procedure.
I would like to point out that a working DRC systems does not have any competition on the aftermarket side when it comes to performance. This was one pro for the use in the RS cars, because of the fact "it makes the difference".
Again, i feel sorry to hear about the insecurity with the repair procedures.
Qisha
My 2 Cents:
Had my system redone two weeks ago.
Ride Height:
Front Driver 14 1/8 inch center of wheel to arch
Front Passenger 14 1/8
Rear Driver 14 1/2
Read Passenger 14 1/2
Ride Better????
1. Pushing on car - still softer than I recall before failure
2. All new bushings and control arms etc $1700 out of pocket - no more groans and moans on slow turns especially on enbankments - pulling into parking lot etc.)
3. High speed on ramps - prior to failure I lived in a remote area, just country roads, rarely on an on-ramp, after failure moved to less rural area, plenty of on ramps, before 'new system, after first repair - ok on on ramps, no squeeling prior to my feeling like it's loosing adhesion, after 'new system' - feels planted but I can get tire squeeling to scar the shit out of you....reason.....they adjusted my TIRE PRESSURE TO 25-28 PSI all around! WTF....I just corrected that (I like it at 48 PSI - even wear, better handling IMO) I'll repost when I have the chance to drive again later today (it's wet out today though)
4. The Obligatory screw up -minor - the tech did not properly replace that big undercarage plastic shroud thing, it was sticking out on the passenger side, pain in the ass, 45 minutes on the ground, 60 seconds for the tech on the lift. This is the kind of minor stuff that makes me very concerned about other possible missing screws, etc....
Mike
I only had an occaisonal clunk before the "FIX", and the rear end always seemed to be planted fairly well although I did notice it getting a little softer over the last 20K miles. Now it is as soft as before the fix if not softer and with the clunking and occaisonal shifting that is occuring in the rear end it is unsafe. I think I am now feeling the failed DRC that I've heard people talking about these last few years. I always wondered how bad it really was from the posts but now I know that mine was still working, just getting slightly softer (probably partially due to the slight seeping from the rear shocks, probably loosing a little pressure too). I'm fortunate at least to have a fairly well outfitted shop with a lift and lots of tools as I have a couple of track cars which always need attention. I'm probably heading out there today as I put the RS6 on the lift yesterday, was going to check the tightness of everything but I may just get motivated enough to start pulling it all out and install the KW's and all of the new control arms.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
Some of the Clunking could just be normal wear and tear parts, bushings etc. They replaced everything when they did the repair, control arms, bushings, upper shock mounts, and I think that is worthwhile at 90,000 miles.
The only suspension problem I had with my 1997 M3 was the rear shock mount broke on one side. I DIY repair $35.00 parts and 45 minutes of time. The biggest challenge was getting the carpet back in place in the trunk! PITA. I had 50k miles on that car when it broke.
My DRC failed at about 35k (if I recall correctly). I used up the rest of my 48k warrantee driving back and forth from Malone to Albany (4 hours each way). They gave me two free lease months for my trouble!
Mike
Qisha,
Funny you single out my dealer. That is where my car had the DRC replaced several months ago. 5-09 Working closely with staff at AoA to ensure that all the proper steps were taken in my repair. Marcus is the RS6 tech at that dealer and the only person in the shop touching the DRC tool. IMHO this is the only way to go. 1 technician working on DRC replacements.
Its also not by accident that my car has been perfect since day 1 of the repair. Performance and ride height are perfect. I have said this before....the working DRC is a thing of beauty. Audi has saved this customer and my next vehicle will be the R8 or a clean diesel performance model. Hurry up and build one.
Cheers! Its a small world.
Dear hahnmgh63,
i am confused about the fact that so many dealers still mishandle the repair procedure. The guide point for point shows each step to be taken. All specifics and warnings are highlighted. Obviously the DRC has not been evacuated properly and/or filled with the correct pressure.
I know about proper repair jobs done here:
Audi North Scottsdale
18088 N Scottsdale Road
Phoenix, AZ 85054, United States
+1 480-538-4000
Maybe it is a option for your local dealer to contact the techs over there. These guys do know how to handle the DRC repair procedure.
I would like to point out that a working DRC systems does not have any competition on the aftermarket side when it comes to performance. This was one pro for the use in the RS cars, because of the fact "it makes the difference".
Again, i feel sorry to hear about the insecurity with the repair procedures.
Qisha
Mike,
Your ride height is exactly the same as mine and it sounds like your happy with the performance. Good luck with it.
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