New and improved DRC Shocks installed in my RS6...

**DHall1** · August 17th, 2009, 20:13

My ride height came out just about the same. Pre and post.

Originally Posted by AudiRS4ever

Actually from that angle your car looks the exact same height as mine. Yes, they did use the new bleeder. I spoke with the technician that worked on it, as well as the Service Mgr. They're both great to me and the tech said it took well over an hour to bleed the system correctly.
Maybe I'm just going crazy and think that the car was lower than it actually was. I'll try to take a pic and remeasure some time this week. I won't have time today or tomorrow. Thanks for the picture though. It makes me feel much better to see that yours is about where mine is.

**Avus-RS6** · August 17th, 2009, 20:57

Originally Posted by hahnmgh63

I picked mine up yesterday and the ride is firmer than before but definitely sits higher in the rear. I'm definitley going to install the KW's. Mine is 15" at the rear from the center of the wheel hub and an even 14" at the front. If I could have the current ride at a lower ride height I would take it.

What dealership did you go to?

Jason

**hahnmgh63** · August 17th, 2009, 21:48

I live south of Tacoma but didn't trust Larson to do the work so I took it up to Seattle to University as I knew someone else on the list already had their car done there. They told me it would sit 1/2" higher in the rear but it is a full 1 1/8" higher in the rear. I spoke with them this morning and they said there wasn't anything they could do, and there was supposedly an Audi USA regional tech there when they did my car to make sure it was done right. I told them I was very dissapointed in the height but the firmness was better but overall a failing grade. I have a new set of KW's that I think I'm going to start an install on this weekend. I have mentioned on the list before that I am shocked that Audi doesn't include new strut/shock mounts with the update as after 6 years of age the rubber has to be getting softer and deteriorating no matter what the mileage. I do have new mounts at home purchased to go with the KW's.

**DHall1** · August 17th, 2009, 22:18

What are your center hub/rim to top of wheel arch measurements? Nevermind

Yours is 1 1/8" higher in the rear? Edit: Noticed you posted that as 15 rear and 14 front.

Did I read spec as 10mm higher in the rear? Mine is almost exactly 10mm higher in the rear.

Pics?

But, did University use the new special tool or install new control valves?

Originally Posted by hahnmgh63

I live south of Tacoma but didn't trust Larson to do the work so I took it up to Seattle to University as I knew someone else on the list already had their car done there. They told me it would sit 1/2" higher in the rear but it is a full 1 1/8" higher in the rear. I spoke with them this morning and they said there wasn't anything they could do, and there was supposedly an Audi USA regional tech there when they did my car to make sure it was done right. I told them I was very dissapointed in the height but the firmness was better but overall a failing grade. I have a new set of KW's that I think I'm going to start an install on this weekend. I have mentioned on the list before that I am shocked that Audi doesn't include new strut/shock mounts with the update as after 6 years of age the rubber has to be getting softer and deteriorating no matter what the mileage. I do have new mounts at home purchased to go with the KW's.

**Avus-RS6** · August 17th, 2009, 22:38

Originally Posted by DHall1

What are your center hub/rim to top of wheel arch measurements? Nevermind

Yours is 1 1/8" higher in the rear? Edit: Noticed you posted that as 15 rear and 14 front.

Did I read spec as 10mm higher in the rear? Mine is almost exactly 10mm higher in the rear.

Pics?

But, did University use the new special tool or install new control valves?

Yeah, they told me 10mm was the spec for how much higher the rear should be than the front. University did my install too and when I asked, they said they used the new special tool, I don't know about new control valves.

Jason

**GEN XER** · August 18th, 2009, 00:36

My car sits about the same as Dave's (D Hall). I got it done at the Richmond VA dealership back in June. Like someone else said it took over an hour to bleed the system properly with the hand held pump. My car sits higher than it did in the back but I would imagine it would if the old shocks had leaked a good portion of the oil out. The ride is 100% better and I can hit the many potholes of VA without any pucker factor. Unfortunately it is awsome in curves at near 70mph and thats how I got my reckless ticket. I came of the highway loop at 69mph but the speed limit was 45mph and smokey was sitting at the end of the loop slightly downhill just waiting. LOL. I think I got it beat though, its amazing what a set of 255/55-18 will do to the calibration. It makes the speedo of 7pmh. That means when I was thinking I was doing 62mph, I was actually doing 69mph. Now I can put the 19's back on. We will see tomorrow if my lawyer can work it out for me. BTW Dave lets see a pic of that pool that gave you so many problems. :-))).

**DHall1** · August 18th, 2009, 02:02

Hahah,

The pool is awesome. I will take some pics

As for DRC. The key that has been said over and over. The special tool is a manual process and takes an hour or more of pumping by hand all the air out of and pressure into the lines.

Double, triple check that the dealer knows how to use this tool.

Originally Posted by GEN XER

My car sits about the same as Dave's (D Hall). I got it done at the Richmond VA dealership back in June. Like someone else said it took over an hour to bleed the system properly with the hand held pump. My car sits higher than it did in the back but I would imagine it would if the old shocks had leaked a good portion of the oil out. The ride is 100% better and I can hit the many potholes of VA without any pucker factor. Unfortunately it is awsome in curves at near 70mph and thats how I got my reckless ticket. I came of the highway loop at 69mph but the speed limit was 45mph and smokey was sitting at the end of the loop slightly downhill just waiting. LOL. I think I got it beat though, its amazing what a set of 255/55-18 will do to the calibration. It makes the speedo of 7pmh. That means when I was thinking I was doing 62mph, I was actually doing 69mph. Now I can put the 19's back on. We will see tomorrow if my lawyer can work it out for me. BTW Dave lets see a pic of that pool that gave you so many problems. :-))).

**hahnmgh63** · August 18th, 2009, 02:24

Pics of my abortion posted in this thread.
http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19114
No control valves on the parts list, same parts as listed by everyone else being replaced, and my pet peeve, no new upper strut/shock mounts. I have a new set of those to go with my KW's as I would have like the car about 1" lower than stock anyways, not 1" higher. I've seen a couple of cars in Europe and they look slightly lower than our N.A. models, Euro cars are jacked up slightly here for bumper height/headlight requirements, was ours too?

**terrytcl** · August 18th, 2009, 22:21

Originally Posted by mmaturo

Its at Continental...I'll let you know if i'm happy with it though, I have been VERY frustrated with their techs and their abilities to figure anything out lately (car is also there for 3rd run at the exact same problem in other parts of the front suspension). Granted its not an easy problem but they keep handing it back to me after three week stints after giving up on it.

I'm the 3rd or 4th one they have done so we will see. I dropped it off yesterday, no word yet today on whats up with it.

any updates?

**mmaturo** · August 19th, 2009, 03:45

Originally Posted by terrytcl

any updates?

Yup, DRC is fixed, picked it up this evening...all is good as i posted on the other links on the subject...feels the same as my still good last 6 month old DRC fix and ride height is the same essentially. About 1/16" to 1/8" higher in the rear but same in the front as pre fix. So i think you can feel good about them fixing the DRC.

They can't seem to figure out my pop but not surprised as they really have replaced now EVERYthing else...links, stabilizer bar, upper and lower control arms, checked the steering mounts, and i'm pretty sure everything else. They want the axle replaced before they go further. I gave up and took the car back as they did put the car up for me to feel the axle. It has a very slight give compared to the passenger side but i still do not see how a spinning axle would cause singular pop over changes in grade. The axle is just fine (will last awhile) so i'm not paying to replace a decent axle for $700. So screw it. There is still a bushing somewhere doing it but all their techs can't figure it out. I am hoping putting in new shocks and tightening them down helped. A of A essentially told me the same that i'm stuck till axle is replaced. Whatever. Its not that annoying but is pathetic. In 4 years of ownership i have had only about 6 months with no clunking or popping. Crazy.

**DHall1** · August 19th, 2009, 04:20

But you drove a RS6 for 4 years.

You had alot of fun.

You could have drove a Civic.

Originally Posted by mmaturo

Yup, DRC is fixed, picked it up this evening...all is good as i posted on the other links on the subject...feels the same as my still good last 6 month old DRC fix and ride height is the same essentially. About 1/16" to 1/8" higher in the rear but same in the front as pre fix. So i think you can feel good about them fixing the DRC.

They can't seem to figure out my pop but not surprised as they really have replaced now EVERYthing else...links, stabilizer bar, upper and lower control arms, checked the steering mounts, and i'm pretty sure everything else. They want the axle replaced before they go further. I gave up and took the car back as they did put the car up for me to feel the axle. It has a very slight give compared to the passenger side but i still do not see how a spinning axle would cause singular pop over changes in grade. The axle is just fine (will last awhile) so i'm not paying to replace a decent axle for $700. So screw it. There is still a bushing somewhere doing it but all their techs can't figure it out. I am hoping putting in new shocks and tightening them down helped. A of A essentially told me the same that i'm stuck till axle is replaced. Whatever. Its not that annoying but is pathetic. In 4 years of ownership i have had only about 6 months with no clunking or popping. Crazy.

**DuckWingDuck** · August 19th, 2009, 04:34

hey now, don't hate on civics ;-)

**mmaturo** · August 19th, 2009, 04:35

Originally Posted by DHall1

But you drove a RS6 for 4 years.

You had alot of fun.

You could have drove a Civic.

Lol...oh trust me I've enjoyed every commute in the sucker. If i didn't love it so much it would be deep 6 in Lake Michigan by now. Abused it a little on my way home with a few highway bursts and 2 or 3 full acceleration jumps off lights...just to make sure she's good.

Gave up the CRX after high school. Been Audi's ever since. 'Never follow' works for me.

**AudiRS4ever** · August 19th, 2009, 13:43

Originally Posted by DHall1

Hahah,

The pool is awesome. I will take some pics

As for DRC. The key that has been said over and over. The special tool is a manual process and takes an hour or more of pumping by hand all the air out of and pressure into the lines.

Double, triple check that the dealer knows how to use this tool.

Here are a couple of quick pics I snapped in the garage yesterday. I guess it's probably going to be KW's.

**AudiRS4ever** · August 19th, 2009, 13:44

Here's the front.

**DonS** · August 20th, 2009, 01:51

So, the definitive repair for raised ride height after DRC is back to the dealer for a more accurate bleed of the oil... right?

**DHall1** · August 20th, 2009, 01:59

1. Talk to dealer staff to ensure the tech working on your car has done the repair before.
2. Make sure the dealer has the latest special tool. "The tool with the manual pump that takes an hour of hand pumping to bleed and pressurize the system."
3. Tip the people well.
4. Buy goodies on the day you take your car in.

:-)

If the dealer has not used the manual pump. Ask them to get one or call Audi of America. I can give you the name of the guy that will make this all happen.

Originally Posted by DonS

So, the definitive repair for raised ride height after DRC is back to the dealer for a more accurate bleed of the oil... right?

**hahnmgh63** · August 20th, 2009, 02:02

Sounds like my dealer has been told by Audi USA that they need to modify their procedure. Something to do with dropping the car down on the suspension before they do the preload, not when the car is jacked up in the air. Kind of makes sense that you would want the weight on the car when you set it up, just like when tighten bushings, you want them tightened in the loaded position, not unloaded. So back to the dealer with me and another on the list who will be picking his car up tonight from the dealer on his correction attempt.

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