DRC Repair Procedure Changes

[Copper]

My car is in for DRC repair as of last week. I have had the dreaded "clunk in the trunk" for about a year now. I brought the car in this time last year to have it diagnosed and Fidelity turned down the claim saying they could not produce the same symptoms I was having and that some seeping fluid on the strut was "normal". I was told that the DRC needed to get worse before they would pay for the repair. Rather than fight about it (I needed my car the next day) I drove it and just ignored the clunk for the last year but it has gotten progressively worse. I drive my car for business so I really only have the holidays to drop it off.

I printed out the RS6 Tech Training document DHall provided in another post (60 pages)

I showed this document to the Service Manager, Audi Regional (happened to be visting the dealer) and Fidelity Rep (was there to examine the car for the claim). They were all in the Service Manager's office discussing my RS6 when I showed up at the dealer to swap out the Enterprise rental SUV for an A4 Cab.

I was told the DRC repair procedure in the document is outdated and they have a new tool/system that allows them to replace the leaky strut, refill and charge the system. I have yet to see this new procedure however they promised to print it out and hand it to me when I pick up the car in about a week. If they do that, I will scan it and post it here.

A friend of mine has a Daytona Gray RS6 and also had this new procedure performed at the same dealer (Jim Ellis Audi, Marietta). He's had his car back for about a month and so far the DRC is still working properly after the repair.

He initially took his RS6 to a local dealer in Chattanooga, TN when he heard the "clunk in the trunk". That dealer did not have the new tool or training on the new procedure so they contacted Audi's regional rep who authorized to have the car shipped down to Georgia to have the work performed.

Turns out that the leaky strut was the FRONT driver's side but since the system crosses like and "X" from the front left to the rear right. The weight of the front (engine, passenger) compressed the strut/spring so that the clunk/bounce was heard and felt in the right rear since the fluid leaked and the system lost pressure. The trunk/rear is lighter so the strut/spring is not as compressed. So if you are hearing a clunk in the rear, chances are the front strut is leaking so have the dealer check for that. I am having the same symptom so guessing this will be the same for me as well.



So... stay tuned.

[Hy Octane]

The RS6 self study guide dosent detail the procedure for repair, rather it just confirms that when replacing any struts, the central valve must also be replaced..something many folks were having trouble making their uneducated techs understand. Its not the guide thats outdated, its the system itself.

[DHall1]

This brings up a point.

Did anyone notice how basic this study guide was written? Its about a 10th grade level or slightly higher. My guess, this adds to the statement below of "uneducated" techs. Just an observation and not all techs are uneducated. I commend those that work to learn a trade and work in a professional manner but thats not the norm.

BTW, Copper....thanks for starting the new thread. Its nice to see someone writing a proper title for a thread so that others can use the "search" engine in the future and find this stuff. Its not that common these days.

Cheers

The RS6 self study guide dosent detail the procedure for repair, rather it just confirms that when replacing any struts, the central valve must also be replaced..something many folks were having trouble making their uneducated techs understand. Its not the guide thats outdated, its the system itself.

[DHall1]

Brings up more points.

If a shock has been run without pressure/oil. It is ruined.

"Tool" does nothing about that.

If the central valve on each of the "X" systems runs empty or low on pressure. It is also ruined.

"Tool" does nothing about that.

If one of your shocks leaks out fluid and pressure is lost...that in turn affects the other shock on the "X" and thus runs that shock low on oil. Now if the above is true that these shocks run low or out of oil are ruined. Then...both shocks on the "X" will need replaced.

"Tool" does nothing about that.

What exactly does this "Tool" do? You decide.

Copper-please confirm that the "Tool" will repressure the shock and central valve. 5bar and 20bar. I would like to know.



From the sounds of some of the replies. Audi still has some bridges to mend.

The RS6 self study guide dosent detail the procedure for repair, rather it just confirms that when replacing any struts, the central valve must also be replaced..something many folks were having trouble making their uneducated techs understand. Its not the guide thats outdated, its the system itself.

[mmaturo]

I have to agree on nothing really new yet.
My car is going in after new years for repair number 2.
They are replacing my entire system again as everything is leaking.
Had car in last week but parts couldn't make it in time for christmas travel to florida.
There is a post on audiworld though about a dealer replacing the system with S6 shocks and another with H&Rs.
I am certainly interested in all these posts.

[Aronis]

The special tool has been around since the beginning. It has to be sent to each shop as it is needed. It's the tool that allows them to evacuate and then refill a single shock to the baseline pressure of 5 bar. Then that refilled shock is connected to a new fully pressurized central valve (20 bar).

When a pair gets depressurized (and if the inner guts of the shock is not already damaged by being without fluid) the have to find the leak, replace that seal or whatnot and THEN evacuate and refill the shocks with the special tool.

There is a post showing this tool. A couple of tanks, some valves and a reservoir for the hydraulic fluid (I was told it was a mineral oil).

Sooooo is this a new MAGIC tool or more doubletalk BULLSHIT from Audi?

Ps I posted a comment about that manual bring written in Football player print two years ago.

Mike

[Hy Octane]

Well, its nice they have addressed the underpressurized issues while replacing the system.. problem is still, they are now replacing faulty DRC shocks with new faulty ones, they are just doing a better job of it. How crazy is that?

[alexo]

can you give me the post which contains the rs6 tech training document? Tried various searchs & cant find it.

Thanks

[DHall1]

http://www.titsup-racing.com/RS6_Training_Manual.pdf

can you give me the post which contains the rs6 tech training document? Tried various searchs & cant find it.

Thanks

[Copper]

Right, well the dealer is telling me this document is outdated and yes, it is a self-study guide design to provide the basics to service techs on the differences on the RS6 vs. A6. This is not a procedure document but apparently an old "getting to know the RS6" document released in advance of the RS6 being sold at dealers in the US.

The "new procedure document" that provides the methods to repair/replace the DRC system is on the computer at the dealer. I called them on this and requested a print out and/or to see this procedure with my own eyes.


I have not heard back from the dealer yet but it is the holidays and I'm enjoying throttling the A4 Cab 2.0T to with in an inch of it's life every time I take it out. I'm impressed with the new A4. It has more room and the thing handles really well. The engine is pretty decent as long as you shift it yourself.


I'll provide an update once I get one.

[brownins]

Get KW Variant 3's, you will be happy. The entire DRC system is a horrible design (although great in concept) and has failed twice on my car in the first 30,000 miles. A suspension system that needs to be completely replaced if one component fails should be engineered with the highest of standards, Audi has failed at this. How many $5000 plus repair jobs do you want to go through? I replaced the DRC with KW Variant 3's, the car rides stiff (currently running recommended start settings) but handles like it's on rails. In addition I will only have to replace one coilover if anything goes wrong, a much better solution in my opinion.

[Hy Octane]

Get KW Variant 3's, you will be happy. The entire DRC system is a horrible design (although great in concept) and has failed twice on my car in the first 30,000 miles. A suspension system that needs to be completely replaced if one component fails should be engineered with the highest of standards, Audi has failed at this. How many $5000 plus repair jobs do you want to go through? I replaced the DRC with KW Variant 3's, the car rides stiff (currently running recommended start settings) but handles like it's on rails. In addition I will only have to replace one coilover if anything goes wrong, a much better solution in my opinion.

This is exactly what Audi is hoping we will do. That lets them off the hook and get us off their cases.

[Aronis]

How much for K3 installed?

[hahnmgh63]

Yea, I see the DRC is made by KYB. Audi needs to get with KYB on this DRC issue and get it fixed even if it is a re-design. I wonder if KYB is the manufacturer of the newer RS4 suspension as well? I would have to agree that for now, I think KW or one of the other aftermarket suspensions are the way to go. Mine was still on warranty but who wants to keep making trips to the dealer which for me is a hour away? My lousy dealer doesn't give a loner car.

[Aronis]

Yea, I see the DRC is made by KYB. Audi needs to get with KYB on this DRC issue and get it fixed even if it is a re-design. I wonder if KYB is the manufacturer of the newer RS4 suspension as well? I would have to agree that for now, I think KW or one of the other aftermarket suspensions are the way to go. Mine was still on warranty but who wants to keep making trips to the dealer which for me is a hour away? My lousy dealer doesn't give a loner car.

I tracked down KYB two years ago and via email got a dialogue going. They had ZERO interest in being helpful stating "Audi has all the information they need to fix the DRC."

The level of involvement of KYB at the consumer level is lame. They have no interest in being proactive in fixing their poor engineering design. Particularly the lack of ability to service their design in the field.

Field service is every bit as important as design and manufacturing. If you cannot fix the product you made it thus becomes a disposible piece of junk.

Just like Audi's poor design in placing the oil filters in such poor locations (for God Sack, one of the most common things you do to maintain a car! Oil Change), these KYB people should have and could have designed DRC version TWO with built in pressure transducers to measure the static start up pressure each time you start the car to WARN of a possible leak EARLY.

Or perhaps a design that is FIELD serviceble. IE central valve that can be repressurized in the shop.

Special Tools need not apply.

Mike

[hahnmgh63]

Not sure about installation but the KW's run about $2400~$2650 in the states. I'm doing the installation myself as I'm replacing all of the suspension pieces while in there. Then I'll take the car for a good alignment. Unlike DRC, KW has a reputation for quality and reliability. And for those stories I've found through Google, they seem to have a great warranty, no questions asked replacement.

[hahnmgh63]

This maybe true Hy Octane, but how much of a hassle and cost are you willing to incur to repeatedly make trips to the dealer. Some here have been to the dealer 3 or 4 or more times, been without there cars for months total time. I believe everyone should file a complaint with NHTSA http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov , stateside at least.

[snoopra]

I know Champion Audi in FL (not sure which one) did a DRC "mode" which increased all shock psi from 5 to 9bar, cured leak issue.