DRC Repair Procedure Changes

[mdegracia]

Brought the car in this morning for the gas tank rollover valve recall. Also had them look into the DRC campaign status.

Apparently, the car received the campaign back in 2009. Ok, so why is the rear end still clunking? Has anybody had the campaign performed and then had followup issues? Just curious.

I asked him to re-inspect the DRC system for leaks. Hopefully he does it....I hate having to be dependent on dealers for this kind of shit, sually do my own work or work directly with my indy.

[ben916]

well, I did the same yesterday...

Had the RS tech @ Hoehn drain the accumulators and repressurize the DRC system:
Yeah! = no more squeaks, thunks
Booo! = looks like it rides about ANOTHER inch higher and they set the tire pressure @ 40 so the Kooks howl a little and are too hard. I can stick my entire four fingers between the tire and the wheel well lip - Pathetic!!!! I bet there is sooo much pressure on the system that the struts are nearly fully extended...

Current lunch money tally = $1455... almost there (Red 5)....

[4everRS]

Ben, did they say they were gonna tighten rear suspension while loaded? Or up in the air (wrong)

[ben916]

Ben, did they say they were gonna tighten rear suspension while loaded? Or up in the air (wrong)

They refused to touch it...

[kismetcapitan]

my car was originally sold by Hoehn Audi and the DRC recall was also done there. And yep, when I got my car, the rear end was sky high.

(buying a car with 80K on the odometer feels safer when the receipts for every service and oil change with the car is a giant stack....)

btw, I set my tires to 42psi and I've got Hankooks too. Anything less and the car's handling doesn't feel right.

[wm_sorg]

Hi All,


Unfortunately, I have the rear clunk and the DRC service expired in 2011. What are my options other than coilovers?

[kismetcapitan]

do a search for Koni shocks. DRC just isn't worth the headache, cost, and finding a dealer who actually knows how to set the damned system up - RS6s are cars they rarely, if ever, see.

I ended up doing H&R springs too, plus control arms. But just doing the shocks is affordable, simple, and gets you back on the road.

If you want more anti-roll, you need stiffer springs and Hotchkis anti-roll bars, but kiss ride comfort goodbye.

[lswing]

Kismet, good to see you around still...

And to the question...Google "site:rs6.com yourTopicHere"...Koni yellows are a very good easy strut option. Others find home ways to keep the DRC charged.

[B727]

I recharged my DRC system at home easily enough and for not a lot of $$, if you're game. New/old stock or good used dampers aren't expensive. Personally I would not go stiffer than the DRC, but that's me...

[wm_sorg]

Do you have a source for parts? It was my understanding that a special tool is needed to recharge the system.

I recharged my DRC system at home easily enough and for not a lot of $$, if you're game. New/old stock or good used dampers aren't expensive. Personally I would not go stiffer than the DRC, but that's me...

[Dmb408]

I recharged my DRC system at home easily enough and for not a lot of $$, if you're game. New/old stock or good used dampers aren't expensive. Personally I would not go stiffer than the DRC, but that's me...

I agree with this, my system is locked and loaded right now and I still have 40 aspect tires and it is pretty hard.

[kismetcapitan]

Kismet, good to see you around still...

And to the question...Google "site:rs6.com yourTopicHere"...Koni yellows are a very good easy strut option. Others find home ways to keep the DRC charged.

I don't really drive much; my RS6 gets less than 1000 miles on it a year. I found myself struggling to remember everything I've done with my car, when I was in the honeymoon phase and getting the car the way I wanted it to be.

However, I do use Audi products daily; they just have two less wheels and are made in Italy :P

[B727]

Do you have a source for parts? It was my understanding that a special tool is needed to recharge the system.

The only Audi-specific part is a quick-connect fitting, 4B3616891. One-half attaches to the on-car hose fitting and the other half attaches to the fitting on the damper (fragile part, be sure and backstop it when loosening), with a T or manifold in between. Otherwise, I used a hydraulic hand pump (porta-power or similar), a cheap electric vacuum pump, and a refrigeration recharge manifold to allow switching between vacuum and pressure without allowing air back into the system. There are a couple of pics and some other points in this thread: http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/32...tle-Left-Front

I used a Snapon adapter kit for the manifold, but after using it, it wasn't really necessary. An inexpensive 'T' would have worked just as well.