Guys can I just say, VERY very useful information here.
JP4 can I just ask, what has made you decide to go for Pagid Grey (RS15) instead of Pagid Black (RS14)?
Guys can I just say, VERY very useful information here.
JP4 can I just ask, what has made you decide to go for Pagid Grey (RS15) instead of Pagid Black (RS14)?
Get out and drive
Yes...it certainly can be done. We just did a small group buy while we're still evaluating how well they are going to work for us.Originally Posted by itchingtogo
Group price was about $430 each for a complete rotor. Extra friction rings were about $180 each. These prices do NOT include shipping.
Yes...it certainly can be done. We just did a small group buy while we're still evaluating how well they are going to work for us.
Group price was about $430 each for a complete rotor. Extra friction rings were about $180 each. These prices do NOT include shipping.
If i'm correct that'll be slightly more expensive than the stock ones, but as the quality is improved and regarding the current EUR/USD rate it should be a good deal
Get out and drive
Yes you can ask! When I originally switched to the RS15 I was looking for the pad that could handle the OUTRAGEOUS heat that the OEM front rotors were creating. The RS15 fit the bill with no problems. They also have highest friction level that pagid offers as far as I know.Guys can I just say, VERY very useful information here.
JP4 can I just ask, what has made you decide to go for Pagid Grey (RS15) instead of Pagid Black (RS14)?
Jimmy has been using the RS14 and likes them. It's my understanding that he's going to try the RS15's next. He will have a direct comparison once he has made the change.
JP4
Don't forget one thing here. The initial cost is very close to the OEM rotor. But when the friction ring wears out, you only need to replace the friction ring. Assuming that hats are not damaged, they can be used again. That reduces the cost of new brakes by more than 50%.If i'm correct that'll be slightly more expensive than the stock ones, but as the quality is improved and regarding the current EUR/USD rate it should be a good deal
Great, maybe we can get another buy together. As far as replacement rings are they custom or off the shelf once you have the hats for them. I am sure that I would like to be a regular customer at less than $200 a side .Yes...it certainly can be done. We just did a small group buy while we're still evaluating how well they are going to work for us.
Group price was about $430 each for a complete rotor. Extra friction rings were about $180 each. These prices do NOT include shipping.
Itchingtogo,
I would help if you told us when you might be interested in getting a set?
Where are you located?
Located in US would be easier than figuring out a way to get them shipped outside the US.
Regards, Jimmy S.
P.S. If you will be tracking the car you might consider ordering a 2nd set of rotor rings at the same time with replacement hardware.
Last edited by jimmy94507; March 17th, 2007 at 23:18. Reason: add information
I am in Florida. I am not in need now but I would like to join a group buy when organised.
Thankks Gary
skiwi, excellent write up, thank you! And a great discussion that followed, in fine RS6.com style.
Are you planning on any track sessions soon? It would be interesting to hear your comments on this mod after a hard set of laps!
2010 XFR
2004 RS6 (sold)
2008 Exige S 240
2009 V8 Vantage
2008 X5 4.8i
speaking about rotors, guess what rotors i was playing with on the week-end?? i got the chance to visit the williams f1 pit in melbourne!
i had the chance to talk to a mechanic who was re-building the rear suspension of the williams, who talked to me about the braking system, along with a few other things. i got to hold the rear (ap) brake callipers (no photos allowed unfortunatley): amazingly light, and very very careful attention to airflow. the airflow is drawn across the outside of the calliper and then down vertically through the pads to the rotor's surface. as can be seen from this photo of the fronts, airflow management is a key part of getting the best out of f1 brakes.
i've seen a few f1 races, and visited the pits a few times, but i'd go on record anytime as saying that the williams team made this by far the best f1 experience i've had, and are a great bunch of guys and deserve to succeed.
dave
'03 rs6
'04 allroad tdi
JP4 - Very interested in a group buy on that rotor set up!! I'm very close to needing a replacement set now so would really love to spend the coin on the upgrade.
Keep me posted.
Regards - Nick (another KIWI) relocated to the US for the higher speed limits.
quality doesn't come in a twist off.
JP4: Any update on the rotors?
Get out and drive
Just wanted to bup the thread.
I'm eagerly awaiting news cause I'm afraid I went through another set of discs this weekend at the Ring
Pads and tires too but that's a bit offtopic here
Get out and drive
Well....Ran the beast at Heartland Park (Topeka, Kansas) at the KC Audi School then the Porsche School at Gateway International Raceway (St. Louis, Missouri) the following weekend.JP4: Any update on the rotors?
I'm satisfied with this brake set-up on the RS6. Significant improvement over the stock front rotors and pads. Aftermarket front rotors with stock Brembo calipers and Pagid RS15 pads. Stock rear rotors and calipers with Pagid RS19 pads. Motul RBF 600 fluid. VW Phaeton cooling kit on both front rotors.
No brake fade detected. No warping detected. (The rotors will warp if not cooled down sufficiently after hot laps. I know this from experience last fall after coming off the track into the hot pits for a passenger change immediately after hot laps with no cool down. I was able to have the rotors "straightened" with a brake lathe with no ill effects.) Some crazing on surface of rotor detectable but not nearly as noticable as on the OEM rotors.
Other notes....
1) The RS15's do require a certain amount of finesse. They can be "grabby" if you are not smooth on pedal application and release. Once I got used to this it was a non-issue IMO.
2) Randy Pobst drove the car at Barber last November and commented that the brakes were fine. btw...with Randy behind the wheel we managed to overtake and pass a 996 TT in the instructor group among others including an RS4 with my beast.
3) Jimmy has run his with a near identical set-up at least once this year already too. He's using Pagid RS14's on the front and the same rear pads (RS19's). He's still satisfied with that set-up to the best of my knowledge.
Jimmy....if you have anything to throw in here please do so!
JP4
My modifications:
Everything stock except:
Phaeton cooling scoops
Pagid blue pads (I believe they are RS4-2)
Steelflex cables
Ferodo brake fluid dot 5.1
I am very satisfied with the braking on the Nordschleife. No fading at all.
Regarding pagid brake pads I am hearing all sorts of things from various sources. Some say use the blue ones as they're disc friendly, some say use orange, some black, grey and on and on. Quite puzzled there
+ they are quite expensive and am checking out other brands at the moment (EBC?)
Regarding the discs it's quite a headache. Getting of the track and going for a drive to let the whole thing cool, but still getting the warped feeling after some laps. + I am not doing any consecutive laps, always several hours if not a day in between. Even while I am doing the cool-off drive I can hear the metal deforming while cooling down, crazy.
Am really keen on finding better brake discs, which is why I am keeping an eye on this thread.
PS: have you guys ever checked temperature after some braking, strange thing is: front right brake and rear left brake is always more or less the same "graphic", same counts for front left and rear right. Is it because the brakes are being steered "diagonally" ?
Sorry if my question is rather silly, I am a bit of a nitwit when it comes to mechanics..
Get out and drive
Are you running with the ESP on or off? If it's on....that could explain the "strange" temps that you're seeing. ASSuming that you're occassionally getting into the ESP while driving on the track.
I'm always on the track with the RS6 with ESP on, I'm not a professional plus it's my daily so better not steer it into the armcoAre you running with the ESP on or off? If it's on....that could explain the "strange" temps that you're seeing. ASSuming that you're occassionally getting into the ESP while driving on the track.
But I'm also getting this when we tested the brakes on a normal straight. I think rear-left/front-right and rear-right/front-left are somehow "connected".
Get out and drive
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