xPost: What's the best way to get oil filter in/out of RS6?

cc · November 25th, 2006, 16:26

Any/all hints/suggestions/crazy ideas accepted.

**gjg** · November 25th, 2006, 22:58

I take out the turbo airpipe on right side - easy and fast

**skiwi** · November 27th, 2006, 09:12

huh? are you talking about the rs6? there is a manifold in the way. i don't believe that you can get the filter out upwards without removing the manifold. bottom is relatively easy once the swaybar is moved out of the way...

**gregoryindiana** · November 27th, 2006, 18:39

Swaybar in front loosened on that side only, lowers just enough to get the filter out. Bigger problem is getting the new one in and tightened to spec. The filter specifies an actual torque setting! not just hand tightened. It is pretty hard to get any torque wrench up into the oil filter recess area.

And don't spare the rags when removing, as plenty of old oil will come down over your clean sway bar and its fastenings, if not over you as well. And that oil is HOT

**skiwi** · November 27th, 2006, 19:12

still got a v8? - good for you!

**gregoryindiana** · November 28th, 2006, 01:49

Originally Posted by skiwi

still got a v8? - good for you!

Bought 3 years old, now with over 189K miles, engine never apart aside from cam cover seal replacement, and timing belt replacements. I have also replaced the starter and alternator, but they don't count.

May the RS6 do half as well

**skiwi** · November 28th, 2006, 09:32

auto or manual? i'd love to drive the early manual with centre clutch and torsen rear...

still sometime regret that i sold my mint 20v ur-quattro, with sun visor autographed by walter rohrl...

**gjg** · November 28th, 2006, 14:28

Originally Posted by skiwi

huh? are you talking about the rs6? there is a manifold in the way. ...

from the bottom, not from the top. I'll be changing oil in about a week, I'll take pics.

**Aronis** · November 29th, 2006, 03:15

Hold the phone..I've changed mine at least 8 times.

Get low profile ramps.
Get car up on ramps.
Take four nuts off for sway bar, let it hang down....(yes both sides its simply easier).
Reach up into the friggen tight space....loosen the filter with a strap type wrench, fits the easiers...e
Ease it out...yes it will spill due to the friggen geometry of that tight space....
New filter in....hand tight plus a 1/4 turn with strap type wrench...

swing sway bar back up...put four nuts back on....torque.....
replace that GD plastic cover.
Done.

Mike

**GEN XER** · February 22nd, 2009, 05:16

I'm glad I found this thread as I have a oil change coming up. I was just under the car today taking some oil out for a sample. I should have the results back in a few days and I will post the analysis on the forum. The oil is the Audi 505.01 oil. I'm curious to see the science behind the oil. I'm more curious to see how it performs after 9500 miles in the car. Its was tight under there and that plastic cover was a pain in the ass. From the looks of mine I need a new one.

**grizz** · February 22nd, 2009, 07:48

I don't know why but on some cars the filter will come out backwards through the hole between the chassis & manifold & then out past the drive shaft ..

On other cars the gap is too small and it has to come out past the sway bar.

**Aronis** · February 22nd, 2009, 14:01

May be different with the car on a lift, so that the suspension is hanging. With Ramps the space is very tight and the sway bar has to be dropped (easier to drop both sides (4 nuts) then to try to futz with one side only).

I'm doing my next oil change today! (if I have 7.5 liters, have to check).
Finished rear brakes yesterday.
Next (if winter ever ends) good cleaning.

Mike

**hahnmgh63** · February 22nd, 2009, 17:30

You have to drop that side of the sway bar to do it and obvioulsy remove the plastic lower engine tray. I always fill my new filter with new oil to lessen the dry startup. In the RS6's case, after filling the filter with oil, I cover it with a piece of plastic wrap (to keep any dirt out that may fall) until I get it moved into position then pull the wrap off and screw it on. Don't sweat the TQ, just install as you would any filter. I've done a couple of RS6's mulitple times and I've never had one fall off or leak.

**snoopra** · February 22nd, 2009, 18:07

I just raise the right front side, remove the wheel and your hand can slip in to fit a ratchet oil filter tool, remove bottom cover to ratchet off.
And yes, I have big hands.

**Aronis** · February 22nd, 2009, 23:06

Originally Posted by snoopra

I just raise the right front side, remove the wheel and your hand can slip in to fit a ratchet oil filter tool, remove bottom cover to ratchet off.
And yes, I have big hands.

I am going to have to try that! Suspension drops out of the way?

Mike

**hahnmgh63** · February 23rd, 2009, 01:35

I'm spoiled, I have a lift in my shop and do it from underneath. I'm anal, I always let my oil drain overnight as a minimum and like my post. I fill the filter with oil, let it soak in the element, then fill it again to the top before covering it with plastic food wrap. Then I get it up into position and pull the wrap off and spin it on. A google search will confirm that dry startup is a high wear time for engines over their life and many race engine builders claim oil change dry startup is the highest percentage of startup engine wear.

**DHall1** · February 23rd, 2009, 03:56

This is interesting.

The filter is at a 90 degree angle. How much oil spills out after you fill it up like that.

I will do all the future service on my car. I tried Audi service once (not impressed and they just wanted to sell me a 4000 dollar 35k service that the car was not due for) Since then I have made a good relationship with the parts guys and they are giving me 15% discount. The service writers are arrogant pricks. So far. I wont throw all of them under the bus just yet. Gerry from Phoenix says his writer is a cool guy that keeps his mods undercover from Fidelity and gets things pushed thru. I like that so if I need something covered under Fidelity...I may try his dealer on the north side.

Originally Posted by hahnmgh63

I'm spoiled, I have a lift in my shop and do it from underneath. I'm anal, I always let my oil drain overnight as a minimum and like my post. I fill the filter with oil, let it soak in the element, then fill it again to the top before covering it with plastic food wrap. Then I get it up into position and pull the wrap off and spin it on. A google search will confirm that dry startup is a high wear time for engines over their life and many race engine builders claim oil change dry startup is the highest percentage of startup engine wear.

**DuckWingDuck** · February 23rd, 2009, 04:15

relationship with your advisor & technician are vital.

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