New and improved DRC Shocks installed in my RS6...

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August 25th, 2009, 23:20
Hy Octane

If its taking any tech 15 hrs to do this theres the problem right there. It should be a 5 hr tops job if the tech knows the process. 15 hrs reeks of someone spending time on the phone to someone else asking what to do next or why something aint right///..Hell, it dosent take 15 hrs to take out the entire drivetrain!
August 26th, 2009, 00:27
audios

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hy Octane

If its taking any tech 15 hrs to do this theres the problem right there. It should be a 5 hr tops job if the tech knows the process. 15 hrs reeks of someone spending time on the phone to someone else asking what to do next or why something aint right///..Hell, it dosent take 15 hrs to take out the entire drivetrain!

was their first recal. didn't care how long it took as long as it got done right but apparently they couldn't do that. would have thought it would take towards 10. 2 hrs a corner plus an hr to hand pump the air out.plus the had to replace a line that broke.
felt like no pressure on one corner. i went over speed bump and front end bounced up and down with loud clanging. painful to hear,
August 26th, 2009, 20:22
Aronis

I've done some more aggressive corners and have to say I do think it's better than prior to the DRC replacement! Still softer than I think it should be, but does handle somewhat better.

The biggest improvement is simply related to the new mounts and arms, no more creaking and groaning LOL....now if I could do that with my knees?

Mike
August 26th, 2009, 20:41
Hy Octane

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hy Octane

The current setup for DRC repair includes the new toolkit as well as a training video all techs can access thru Audis video network which explains step by step how to install the system. If there is any question about procedure, they should consult this network and follow the training videos.

CORRECTION::

Its not a video but an online 34 page service bulletin that all techs can access online. It describes step by step the proper procedures.
August 27th, 2009, 05:09
audios

Quote:

Originally Posted by audios

was their first recal. didn't care how long it took as long as it got done right but apparently they couldn't do that. would have thought it would take towards 10. 2 hrs a corner plus an hr to hand pump the air out.plus the had to replace a line that broke.
felt like no pressure on one corner. i went over speed bump and front end bounced up and down with loud clanging. painful to hear,

called me to tell me it had blown a line. happened right after repair, during their test drive and din't catch or when i pulled out. seriously?
August 27th, 2009, 05:45
DHall1

Very important.

If you drove at all with no fluid then both shocks in the "x" are toast. If you drove and heard clunking then both shocks are toast

audi must replace 2 struts. Do not let them re-use the struts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by audios

called me to tell me it had blown a line. Happened right after repair, during their test drive and din't catch or when i pulled out. Seriously?
August 27th, 2009, 23:14
hahnmgh63

Just picked up my car from fix #2 (first was the initial repair and new struts/shocks, then #2 to re-lower the car). The car sits 14 3/4" from center of hub to the fender in the rear and 14 1/8" in the front. Not much of an improvement from before, although I do run without the spare tire/tool kit and I do have the Odyssey 925T battery which is 39# lighter than stock so I'm looking at a weight savings off the rear end of about 100#'s which may be the reason mine is a little higher than others? Made my decision after the pickup today for the KW V3 install to begin in early Oktober, DRC heading for the dump.
August 28th, 2009, 00:14
SAF

Quote:

Originally Posted by hahnmgh63

Just picked up my car from fix #2 (first was the initial repair and new struts/shocks, then #2 to re-lower the car). The car sits 14 3/4" from center of hub to the fender in the rear and 14 1/8" in the front. Not much of an improvement from before, although I do run without the spare tire/tool kit and I do have the Odyssey 925T battery which is 39# lighter than stock so I'm looking at a weight savings off the rear end of about 100#'s which may be the reason mine is a little higher than others? Made my decision after the pickup today for the KW V3 install to begin in early Oktober, DRC heading for the dump.

Again, please allow me to get those used DRC parts from you when you do this!
August 28th, 2009, 05:26
audios

Quote:

Originally Posted by DHall1

Very important.

If you drove at all with no fluid then both shocks in the "x" are toast. If you drove and heard clunking then both shocks are toast

audi must replace 2 struts. Do not let them re-use the struts.

Dave,
x? this was front right so that one and left rear are toast? assumed fronts and backs ran together. please confirm so i know what i'm arguing about when the time comes. will probably asking for a good contact at AoA.

thanks
steve
August 28th, 2009, 15:21
DHall1

You lost line pressure.

Both shocks on the "X" are toast.

0 line pressure means no fluid in the shock=shock piston hammering inside the housing=everything in the shock is garbage. Its right there in the RS6 literature.

So, if the line was the RR shock. Then you need RR and LF shocks replaced. Dont even let them tell you otherwise.

Edit: I would even go so far as to mark the two shocks so that you know they were changed. Its hard to tell if the Audi dealer knows the damage that was done. They may think your on crack or they may understand. But dont take any chances and keep on them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by audios

Dave,
x? this was front right so that one and left rear are toast? assumed fronts and backs ran together. please confirm so i know what i'm arguing about when the time comes. will probably asking for a good contact at AoA.

thanks
steve
August 28th, 2009, 15:38
audios

^^^
when you say RS6 literature, what are you referring to? again so i know what i am arguing.

thanks
August 28th, 2009, 16:59
topcat_92

Quote:

Originally Posted by topcat_92

I checked my RS before a family vacation last week, and still the difference between the front and back.

One the way down the road to vacation, I get a call out of the blue from my dealer that they may have figured-out how to correct the most of the difference. I am not sure if their fix is the loosening and tighening of bolts that was mentioned earlier in the posts, but I'll find out.

I take it in this Thursday.

All is good in my DRC land. Took it in yesterday and picked it up by 1:00. Their adjustment was as described in earlier posts - loosen everything, push it around, compress/bounce the corners, and tighten everything back up. I could tell at first look that it was back to "normal" and not the 69' Camaro with air shocks heading for the drag strip (OK, it wasn't that bad).

I drove it a few miles last night around town and it felt more planted: softer over the bumps, tighter on the curves. I wasn't able to push it too hard in the city.

As my wife was pulling out of the driveway with the kids this morning, I put a tape on it with them in it (including spare, std. battery, 6-8 water bottles, and volleyball/beach gear). The front and rear are even, within 1/4".
August 28th, 2009, 17:45
DHall1

That is great news!

Enjoy

Quote:

Originally Posted by topcat_92

All is good in my DRC land. Took it in yesterday and picked it up by 1:00. Their adjustment was as described in earlier posts - loosen everything, push it around, compress/bounce the corners, and tighten everything back up. I could tell at first look that it was back to "normal" and not the 69' Camaro with air shocks heading for the drag strip (OK, it wasn't that bad).

I drove it a few miles last night around town and it felt more planted: softer over the bumps, tighter on the curves. I wasn't able to push it too hard in the city.

As my wife was pulling out of the driveway with the kids this morning, I put a tape on it with them in it (including spare, std. battery, 6-8 water bottles, and volleyball/beach gear). The front and rear are even, within 1/4".
August 28th, 2009, 19:14
audios

Quote:

Originally Posted by DHall1

Very important.

If you drove at all with no fluid then both shocks in the "x" are toast. If you drove and heard clunking then both shocks are toast

audi must replace 2 struts. Do not let them re-use the struts.

thanks again for heads up. dealer called today to confirm the blown line and that they were waiting on a new line and two shocks to arrive.
August 28th, 2009, 19:39
DHall1

Very good.

See the new thread with the RS6 study guide info you asked for...

Quote:

Originally Posted by audios

thanks again for heads up. dealer called today to confirm the blown line and that they were waiting on a new line and two shocks to arrive.
August 28th, 2009, 20:17
Hy Octane

It appears that the new tool for this is a delicate thing. Three local dealers here have broken them and are borrowing the only working one left from another dealer..New ones on order, but it sure looks bad when the tool designed specifically to fix a broken system is as delicate as the system its trying to fix..
Poor Audi..
August 28th, 2009, 20:52
DHall1

The tool is a one off bench design to bring a solution to our 6yr old suspension headaches. When your running cutting edge tech on a production car with ultra performance and comfort as goals....Its hard to think ahead to every problem that may surface years down the road. That said, would any of you want to be driving a Toyota Corolla with shocks so soft the side of your beard scrapes the ground on 90 degree corners? We all purchased these cars for very specific reasons. They are not run of the mill production baskets. These are one off purpose built hot rods.

Sorry to ramble. We will never see anything like this ever again on US soil. I think the tool is designed to perform a certain function and may be delicate but up to the task.

My next vehicle will be an Audi clean diesel. The first performance driven Audi diesel will be in my driveway. Audi has won over this customer and will stick with them.

Now for the tool. It could be that the dealers are screwing things up. My local dealer has made it very clear. ONLY 1 tech is even touching this tool. Nobody else in the shop touches this tool. That tool is working just fine months down the road.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hy Octane

It appears that the new tool for this is a delicate thing. Three local dealers here have broken them and are borrowing the only working one left from another dealer..New ones on order, but it sure looks bad when the tool designed specifically to fix a broken system is as delicate as the system its trying to fix..
Poor Audi..
August 28th, 2009, 22:47
DuckWingDuck

Dave, you should buy one of the R10s, heh.

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