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I left the sensor in the bell housing the whole time. I just checked and it is connected so I'm not convinced about that. Is there a block I can monitor to see if it is OK or not?
Going through the coding in VCDS:
17-Instruments -> Adaptation -> Ch 60 is set to 1025 (+0001 Engine & +1024 Instrument Cluster)
01-Engine -> Coding -> set to 0006752 but I think it should be 006712. I get an Out of Range error when I try that.
03-ABS Brakes -> Login: 07197 (6mt code doesn't work)-> Coding is set to 06697 but should be 06695. I cannot get this to change, probably because I can't clear the Missing Message from TCU error because. Guessing I can't clear this until I can get the Engine coding changed?
I have the TCU removed fyiy.
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I'd have to hook it up to mine to see if there is a measuring block but I would assume there is. I would actually removed it and see if it was damaged during the install. The Flywheel should have protected it but you may want to check it anyway.
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There are little to none "idiot checks" with the CPS. It can behave like you're describing when the sensor is giving erratic readings.
Coding has nothing to do with it (nor you can really change it anyway).
If you're inclined to test the sensor without taking it out - either scope the output, or get some high-frequency logger (me7logger works) & log engine RPM (nmot_w).
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Also, since you did a manual conversion, Are you using a CPS from a 2.7t or are you using the OEM RS6 one with a bigger spacer? There is a spec for clearance but I know it will still work with a much larger gap than spec. Audi makes different thickness spacers:
078906435
distance piece, impulse sender 4,0MM 1 ARE,BES
(15) distance piece, impulse sender, for this use: 10,5MM, 059 906 435 A, 078 906 435 manual gearbox+, diesel eng.
(15) 059906435A
distance piece, impulse sender 6,5MM 1
(15) 078906435
distance piece, impulse sender 4,0MM 1
(15) 059906435
distance piece, impulse sender 10,5MM 1 manual gearbox+, diesel eng.
(15) 078906435
distance piece, impulse sender 4,0MM 1 automatic+, diesel eng.
Found the Ohm spec was 730-1000 at 20'C measured between pins 1 & 3. Sensor gap 1mm +/- 0.4mm
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Thanks guys. I'll log it and check resistance tonight.
I used the 2.7t sensor and I'm ordering a replacement 06A906433C since it is likely it got damaged.
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Alright, I got the sensor replaced and still don't have any power past 1/4 throttle. Note for future reference, I pulled the axle and heat shield from the transmission, then with the aid of a scope I was able to get just a standard socket wrench with a 10mm on the bolt. Getting back in was trickier, but the scope made it 1000x easier.
So the sensor *should* be working OK and I'm still not getting power. What's going on? I remembered when I first got the swap running it ran like s#!t so maybe it's just a matter of the ECU needing to learn the bigger injectors. Logging was showing O2 sensor voltages of .88 so I'm getting too much fuel, which was backed up by the smell of the exhaust. I decided now is the time to start modifying the tune. Running the Bosch 0280158123 injectors I reduced KRKTE to .05334 and multiplied the LAMFA table by (Stock injector flow/New injector flow) or 0.56497. I should mention that I was only changing one variable at a time while doing this. These changes didn't seem to make any difference, so I'm pretty much at a loss now. I've linked my latest log below. Suggestions welcome!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Gpt...ew?usp=sharing
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You didn't mention you were messing with the tune.
Revert LAMFA. Stop doing what you don't really understand.
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Also, you have A LOT of vacuum in the charge pipe (!!!) under WOT.
Forgot rags in the intake piping or something?
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First thing I did was only KRKTE, with no affect on drivability and O2 sensor voltages remained high.
It's possible there's rags. I'll scope it to be sure. This whole thing feels like it's something dumb like that.
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Thank you so much Nubcake. It was a f'n used rag that fell into the pass side charge pipe.