GReddy Turbo Timer install...

[+pressure]

Hey all.
I'm installing a GReddy TT.

I've done TTs before & have no issues w/ wiring; constant, keyed, etc. I just want to confirm a few details regarding key-off & factory security.

Does anyone know if the key-off target wire is the same in an RS6 as a B5 platform? Since VAG has always used the "Mr. PotatoHead" engineering concept of sharing, I'd figure 'yes', but if anyone knows different, please advise. In a B5, a 22ga. red wire @ the column is tapped & sent to the car side of a 22ga. blk/blu behind position #6 in the fuse box.

Security, keyless entry, & window control *should* be unaffected, as is in a B5. Anyone know otherwise?

Yes? No? Anyone? Bueller?
Thanx in advance.
Much appreciated.
:revs:

[Bauer]

What is the benifit of have a GReddy turbo timer over a stock one? :cheers:




Bueller?

funny stuff

[+pressure]

There is no stock turbo timer; only a coolant afterrun pump that circulates coolant for a certain time - no actual mechanical slowing of the turbos themselves. The benefit of a 'true turbo' timer is that the engine continues to run @ idle for a pre-determined time while you are free to take the key out of the ignition, lock the vehicle, & walk away. After the 'countdown' is up, the engine simply stops in your absence.

At idle, exhaust gasses keep the turbo spinning gently while oil continues to circulate, thus letting the turbo's oil cool down to prevent coking - oil that burns into a solid, contaminating the bearings. It also prevents "spindle droop" - when a turbine shaft becomes hot enough that it is slightly plyable, & if immediately stopped, is left to slightly "droop" & as it cools, becomes "bent". This creates a tiny imbalance in the turbine shaft that will eventually lead to bearing failure.

Hope that cleared things up. :)

[Aronis]

Hey, so we should leave the car running for a few minutes before leaving it?

How long?

Mike

[JP4]

Originally posted by Aronis
Hey, so we should leave the car running for a few minutes before leaving it?

How long?

Mike

It's always been considered good SOP to allow the turbos a few minutes to cool down by running the car at idle after "spirited" driving for the reasons stated above before shutting down. If you plan ahead a bit you won't have to sit in the car with the car idling. Just try to be sure there is no load on the engine and the rpm's are way down for the last few minutes of driving. :revs:

[Bauer]

+pressure-

Sorry, did not realize that is what a turbo timer was....always thought thats what the after run pump was. Thanks for the info...learn something from this board everyday.

I currently just let the car idle in the garage with the garage door open and then come back in a few min and turn the car off. Turbo timer sounds much better.:D :D

:cheers:

[Benman]

Originally posted by Bauer
I currently just let the car idle in the garage with the garage door open and then come back in a few min and turn the car off. Turbo timer sounds much better.:D :D

:cheers:

Hello Ben:cheers:

As +pressure says they are mostly for convience so you don't have to drive slow the last few minutes (or sit and wait). Some customers of our shop have them and seem to like them fine.

Ben:addict:

[+pressure]

Did it. The underdash of the RS6 is cavernous in comparison to a B5 - plenty of room to work.
:mech:

If anyone would like a tech article w/ photos, lemme know. :)

[Aronis]

Hi +pressure,

Could you give some more specifics.

1. Price for parts?
2. How invasive is the installation?

Thanks,

Mike

[nene]

If you want to do a DIY write-up and give it to Erik to post it, I'm sure we'd all like that!!!

[TaTaPiRaTa]

good point nene,
this forum is for sharing not showing off ;)

BTW:
I'm going to install Sony Erisscon HBH30 Bluetooth car kit, anyone interested in the results?
This is good unit as it works with many GSM phones including Nokia.

:cheers:

[Erik]

Originally posted by TaTaPiRaTa
BTW:
I'm going to install Sony Erisscon HBH30 Bluetooth car kit, anyone interested in the results?
This is good unit as it works with many GSM phones including Nokia.

You mean like this? :D

http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1127&highlight=Bluetooth

[+pressure]

Originally posted by Aronis
Hi +pressure,

Could you give some more specifics.

1. Price for parts?
2. How invasive is the installation?

Thanks,

Mike

Hey Mike.
It's really simple - if you don't dick around or be much a wuss about digging in, it shouldn't take more than a 45 minutes or so... including the consuption of a few tasty beverages.

Bare w/ me here. I'm sitting in my office two days after the install - no pix - so I am leaning on memory.

Disclaimer: if you screw up anything using these instructions, it's your fault, not mine. :deal:

Tools needed:
garage (w/ heat & Speed Channel on wall-mounted TV a plus)
1/4 ratchet (w/ 2+" extension to make things easier)
8mm socket
10mm socket
8mm wrench (ratcheting would be nice)
test light or volt meter
razor blade
wire cutters

Parts needed:
GReddy Turbo Timer (the older / larger all-black model is nicer)
friction tape or electrical tape (friction tape = OE-style)
crimp caps
insulated male & female spade connectors
various-sized T-taps & corresponding male spade connectors
Velcro / hook'n'loop or double-sided foam adhesive strip
zip ties
Amstel Light

As w/ any electrical service, disconnect the (-) terminal of the battery to avoid potential fireworks... (1) 10mm nut. The lower relay panel is quite a hotbed for 12v lugs & grounded metal in close proximity to eachother. A slip of a ratchet extension or testlight / volt meter probe & you could be welding.

1) Pull the driver's side mat & toss it on the garage floor. You'll be kneeling in an uncomfy position for a while, so you'll wanna' be as relatively comfy as possible. (Insert joke here.)

2) Pull lower dash panel: Remove (1) 10mm bolt above dead pedal, (1) 8mm bolt behind fuse panel cover, (1) 8mm bolt above gas pedal next to console, & (2) 8mm bolts under the lower instrument cluster trim just above the steering column. The cover is the one fixed to the dash, not the column itself. Gently pry it from the dash using a tiny flathead screwdriver, then just pull it free. Lowering the steering column as far as possible makes it easy - just watch the electric column control knobs so as not to scratch 'em up pulling that trim piece off. It's a tight squeeze there. The whole lower dash panel will now fall free. Push the footwell light through the panel & then pull it back up - you now have a nice miniature "droplight" to light your way. Last, snap the VAG port plug free. The panel can be removed & set aside... for now.

3) Remove the fuse panel: be careful here. There's a good chance of giving an improptu blood donation when working around Audi's extruded aluminum lower dash crumple zones. It's damn sharp stuff. Remove (2) 8mm bolts behind the fuse panel cover (which should be removed by now) & (1) 8mm bolt behind the panel itself... which doesn't actually hold the fuse box in place, but gets in the way of slipping the 'box out of the way. The (2) on the fuse side are silver - the only silver ones in the project. Jus' wanted to let you know that for when it comes time for putting the bits back together. The only way to remove the silver ones is to use a wrench - there are two thin panels of dash material that negate access with a socket. If you needed a lame excuse to warrant picking up a complete set of those ratcheting box wrenches, now's the time. Work the fuse box out of its recess & pull it into view. You will now be able to open the back of the 'box by disengaging two tiny clips. The back cover will simply hinge open. Snip the black zip tie that holds all the wires together.

4) Target wire access @ fuse box / relay panel: you'll find a 22ga. black wire w/ a blue tracer behind position #6: central locking system. Go a few inches back from the 'box & snip it. Use a female spade connector on the 'box-side & male spade on the car side... just in case you want to return everything to stock at some point. From that male spade, connect a piece of scrap wire ~8-10" long w/ a corresponding female spade. At the opposite end, connect another male. Set aside. Use your test light or meter to find a constant 12v @ one of three lugs under the relay panel. I used the 8mm to the left of the 10mm one. It stayed ~12v while cranking the starter - a "true" constant 12v source.

5) Target wire access @ the column: razor blade time. You'll notice two fat friction-taped harnesses coming from the column; each flanked by two thin harnesses. Looking up from below, the fat one on the right - closest to the center of the car - is the one that contains two of the wires. Using that razor blade, CAREFULLY slice the friction tape so as not to slice any insulation from those lurking inside. You'll find a 10ga. black wire - that's your keyed 12v. Getch'yer fingers in there & pull it from the rest. You'll also find a 22ga. red wire, too. Again, pull it from the others - just be careful w/ that one - it's dainty. Crimp a 'T'-tap to each one.

NOTE: use REAL 'T'-taps, not those cheesy piggy-back "ScotchLoks". 'T'-taps can be found @ any local automotive electronics shop. Just go into the shop & tell 'em what you're doing. You'll leave w/ a pocket full of free connectors - more than you'll need unless you're a total nOOb.

6) Prep the turbo timer (TT) harness: cut off the molex connector on the car side of the TT. You have a red, a blue, & a green. Cut the blue on the TT side, too, & pull it out. You can be detail oriented & pull the terminal from the plug, too. Scrap the enclosed 2-wire harness. That's for silly safety stuff like emergency brake recognition & speed sense. Instead, just remember to put in park before you leave the car. Duh. The red wire gets a ring terminal on it & the green gets a male spade to correspond to a 'T'-tap. The pre-terminated ground will work, but you might want to shorten it & re-crimp another ring terminal to it.

7) Hook it up: the TT's ring-terminated red goes to that 8mm constant 12v lug. The TT's male-spaded green goes to that 10ga. black @ the column. That "scrap" wire extension from the car side of that 22ga. black/blue goes to that 22ga. red @ the column. Temporarily ground the TT @ any one of the 8mm bolts you removed before. Connect the (-) terminal on the battery. Turn the car 'on' - don't start it. If you took too long to do all this work, you'll have to take a few minutes to re-set whatever needs to be. Regardless, there will be all sorts of neat buzzing & whirring from the engine bay: throttle body adaptation (TBA), etc.

8) Test it: plug in the TT & hit power. The newer model will do a little blue & red light show; the older will sing a silly electo jingle... as do most Asian-made electronic automotive doo-dads. Just set it to 45 seconds for now. Now climb in & close up shop - make sure things are normal. Start the engine & let it smooth out. It may be a little rough for a few moments if the TBA didn't complete itself. Now all's well. Shut it off, pull out the key, get out, & shut the door. It should still be running. Set the alarm. Doors should lock, door LEDs should blink, etc. It should still be running. Wait the 45 seconds. It should shut down. Get in & start it again. Repeat the above steps a few times & enjoy another Amstel.

9) Install the TT: back to the lower dash panel. See that long skinny slot under there? Perfect. Using Velcro or an adhesive pad, mount the TT in the slot; deep enough to keep your legs from hitting it, but close enough to get to it for programming.

**If you were lucky enough to source the older TT model, gently pry off the maple dash trim around the cup holder, remove those two gold clips, & pull the cupholder assembly out. Wrap the TT w/ friction tape & slide in the recess. It fits perrrrrfectly & looks $$$.**

10) Clean up: tidy up your wiring w/ friction tape &/or tip ties &/or electrical tape & get the mess of tools in the foot well out of the way. Shoehorn the bolster / turbo timer back down there, making sure you get those silly plastic captive sleeves to hold the underdash tray correctly. It takes a few tries to fit correctly. Put it all back together in reverse order of removal. If you're lucky, you won't even have left over bolts.
:applause:

Lastly, program the TT as per the instructions & enjoy. :cheers:

[Erik]

Thanks a lot +pressure.

I hope it will save engines! :mech:

[+pressure]

Originally posted by Erik
Thanks a lot +pressure.

I hope it will save engines! :mech:

Doubt it'll save "engines" - maybe a few pairs of turbos though. :hahahehe:

[Erik]

Originally posted by +pressure
maybe a few pairs of turbos though. :hahahehe:

Same same but different. :rotflmao:

[TaTaPiRaTa]

Originally posted by Erik
You mean like this? :D

http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1127&highlight=Bluetooth

Yes but with phone holder allowing to connect to external antena and power supply. RS6 windows are not GSM friendly ;)

I just got it installed in other car, works very fine.

I think this gets out if topic so maybe you can move it as Admin if you think this is usefull.

[nene]

The bluetooth kit is cool if you can make it work with the phone system already in place with the car.
Post it !!!

Thanks +pressure for the turbo timer write up!

[TaTaPiRaTa]

BT is cool, but I have nothing like "phone already in place with the car" ; what do you mean?

[TaTaPiRaTa]

Anybody knows where to buy GReddy TT in Europe?

thx

:cheers:

[Erik]

Originally posted by TaTaPiRaTa
Anybody knows where to buy GReddy TT in Europe?


You can try:

http://www.supramannen-racing.com/

rickard@supramannen-racing.com

You can tell him that Erik at RS6.com told you.

I just saw that he also has an HKS TT.
http://www.supramannen-racing.com/produktnyheter-hkstimer.html

"Turbo Timer Type-1 includes all of the Type-0 features, PLUS several measurement tools including a speed warning display,
a two-stage engine RPM warning display, 0-400 meter acceleration time measurement and stopwatch features for lap timing. " :D