New RS6 Owner with a few questions for the more experienced.

[JettaGLi16v]

Howdy, all!

So, after looking at them for a year or 2, I made the jump from my 1995 S6 to a 2003 RS6. (UrS6 is for sale if anyone wants one. Needs a little help, but has a lot of mods.)

I have never owned a V8, nor an automatic, and I gotta say, both are actually awesome in the context of this car.
She's black on black, 88k miles, #905570, near perfect condition, and all service records from new! All services were done on time or early, and the last owner took exceptional care of her (he traded it to a private dealer for a '15 S8). So far, all I've done is tint it (Florida - requirement), and I have a set of smoked Hella tails on the way from Europe. I have never named a car before, but this one came to me like a bolt of lightning. His name is Derrick Lewis. UFC Fans should get it.

Pics:
https://imgur.com/a/pI3cgoH

I have a few questions, though:
-Are there any places to source a belly pan for less than $500?
-Screws for the airbox: Mine are rusty. I haven't pulled one yet, but is this just a standard fastener I can order in SS from McMaster-Carr or wherever?
-VC's are weeping, though they were replaced about 5k miles ago seems like it's a semi-common issue? Should I try to tighten the bolts? Just tighter, or is there a torque spec?
-One intercooler is weeping, so I need Wagners, right?
-My LCD in the cluster is fading when hot (super common, I know) has anyone tried the ColorMFA? It seems pretty cool!
-Should I be changing trans fluid now? every factory service has been done, but I didn't see that as a factory recommended service. If I should, I want Fuchs Titan Sinto something, right? Thought I saw that somewhere.
-My car has the Sound Enhancing Exhaust option. To my understanding, an aftermarket exhaust won't really net any additional power, but makes fun noises? If so, I'll probably leave it. She's a sleeper for a reason. I half want to put an A6 or S6 badge on it, but put it on slightly crooked and see if anyone notices.
-I need to go through all vacuum hoses. I can see the one on the EGR has started to degrade. Are there any other rubber type things I should definitely replace at this interval? If it wasn't in the factory service manual, it hasn't really been done. I assume standard 5mm german vac hose is fine?
-Does anyone other than 034 make a tip chip? I emailed MTM, and got no response, and I even emailed them in German! Does the tip chip adversely impact longevity of the trans?
EDIT: Forgot one!
-The headliner has a 2-3 spots the size of the palm of my hand where it has dropped. Any recourse that does not involve pulling the headliner? If I have to pull it, can I peel back the alcantara and re-glue it?

This whole forum has been my go-to place to learn about these things! I haven't yet had the room and the balls simultaneously to really get on it, but one 95% throttle pull from a stop to 100 was pretty freakin cool!

Thanks!
-Brad

[Aronis]

-Are there any places to source a belly pan for less than $500?

Not that I could ever find. The belly pan is specific to the RS6 with different cut outs. Crazy thing costs about $600 new.


-Screws for the airbox: Mine are rusty. I haven't pulled one yet, but is this just a standard fastener I can order in SS from McMaster-Carr or wherever?

I don't recall those screws being anything special, pull one out and check with Audi Dealer.


-VC's are weeping, though they were replaced about 5k miles ago seems like it's a semi-common issue? Should I try to tighten the bolts? Just tighter, or is there a torque spec?

Those have to be done just right, clean the surfaces well, I had to have mine redone after finding another leak. You can buy an entire kit with all the seals for the cam seals etc. Don't skimp on VC gaskets, get the Audi part.


-One intercooler is weeping, so I need Wagners, right?

Small leaks are not a big deal. You can seal it with JB weld. New IC is about $700 and the labor is about 600000 hours.

-My LCD in the cluster is fading when hot (super common, I know) has anyone tried the ColorMFA? It seems pretty cool!

Lots of youtube on replacing the faded central display. Look pretty easy to DIY.

-Should I be changing trans fluid now? every factory service has been done, but I didn't see that as a factory recommended service. If I should, I want Fuchs Titan Sinto something, right? Thought I saw that somewhere.

Audi says never change it. In fact BMW says the same thing. I had a leaking seal on my transmission at about 50k, had the torque converter changed at 102,000 miles and had the engine stripped out for an oil leak at 140,000 miles. So my transmission fluid was changed three times. When I sold it it has 142,000 miles on it and the transmission was fine. No hiccups. So I guess, changing the fluid is worth it (if done correctly).

-My car has the Sound Enhancing Exhaust option. To my understanding, an aftermarket exhaust won't really net any additional power, but makes fun noises? If so, I'll probably leave it. She's a sleeper for a reason. I half want to put an A6 or S6 badge on it, but put it on slightly crooked and see if anyone notices.

SEE is great. Had that. Loud enough for me.


-I need to go through all vacuum hoses. I can see the one on the EGR has started to degrade. Are there any other rubber type things I should definitely replace at this interval? If it wasn't in the factory service manual, it hasn't really been done. I assume standard 5mm german vac hose is fine?

I got a mile of silicone vacuum tubing from ECS and replace all of mine at about 40,000 miles. All the replaced tubes were AOK at 140,000 miles.


-Does anyone other than 034 make a tip chip? I emailed MTM, and got no response, and I even emailed them in German! Does the tip chip adversely impact longevity of the trans?

MTM transmission chip is excellent. MTM in Montreal Canada can do it with over night mailing. They used to charge $100.00

EDIT: Forgot one!
-The headliner has a 2-3 spots the size of the palm of my hand where it has dropped. Any recourse that does not involve pulling the headliner? If I have to pull it, can I peel back the alcantara and re-glue it?

THAT SUCKS. Mine was sagging and I could just cry. Repairing that is a PITA big time.




Mike

(my overall advice, just drive it as is. Add some oil once and a while.)

[lswing]

Welcome! Looks like most of your list was answered. Use Google to search this forum, "site:rs6.com intercoolers", or the like.

VC's do like to leak, finicky seal. IC's can be replaced by a few companies, SRM and AMD are upgrading them now I think.

You can find some random info and manuals on my website, in sig below.

Get Ross-Tech VCDS, priceless...

[Cmnair]

Try bks-tuning.com in Germany for the belly pan. I have had good experience with them sourcing OEM parts at great prices. Another option is Shokan.com ... they do a lot of Audi parts. Third option is audionlineparts.com .. always found the best dealer prices there.

in terms of transmission fluid .. Audi says lifetime but I changed mine at 57k.. contact Brian at BND. Lot of folks here use his engine oil and transmission fluid.

[JettaGLi16v]

Thanks to all for the replies so far. Very helpful info! I've learned about a few new vendors as well.

Feel free to add any additional info!
Thank you!

[CBeau]

TRANS FLUID : search threads here, but my strong and painfully acquired advice is do not change it at this aged point if it has not been done regularly (operative definition of "regularly" I really can't say), but I properly (stress = properly) changed my never-before-changed fluid at aprx. 90k miles in about 2016 with reputable and specifically (and uber $$$) BND fluid and new filter and seals etc. and had no-zero-zip-zilch-nadda trans problem symptoms prior to change and within 200 miles of changing fluid the trans went big boom and imploded, totally dunzo. Granted trans / torque converters are famously problematic in this car, under-beefed for the power, ancient old school viscous coupling design etc., and at 90k miles and aprx. 13 years old as of 2016, it surely wasn't going to last forever but there are many untouched stock trans' on record going well past 150k mi.s I believe, but as was best and most succinctly explained to me by multiple and credible trans experts including some very familiar with RS6 trans and its service, replacement etc, over time (stress = gradually over time) debris / particulates etc. can be introduced to the fluid from wearing clutch packs etc and as that gradually happens, said particulates not otherwise trapped in filter can find their way to depositing and anchoring into nooks and crannies of the case or wherever and be harmlessly out of the way. And as well, as explained to me, over time the detergents, or similar ingredients if that is not the precise right word, that come in the trans fluid, wear down in their effectiveness / potency and allow those now harmlessly deposited particulates to remain anchored in their nooks and crannies and out of the way from circulation with the fluid. Brand new fluid will have fresh strong detergent components, and perhaps the full flushing of the old fluid out and new in can play a part as well, but it is not uncommon for those once safely deposited particulates to dislodge and start circulating with the new fluid and apparently as described "there are many critical fluid passageways within the trans that are no bigger than the lead of a pencil and if any of them become clogged its sudden death. So take it for what its worth, but that was my personal and painful experience, and I read similar to what I just told you from multiple sources, but I didn't listen and insisted on being needlessly - and indeed harmfully - proactive in "caring" for my vintage and rare cool RS6 I really liked, and ended up facing a full trans replacement as a nearly immediate and direct consequence. Trans replace / rebuild = involved and expensive full engine -out undertaking I don't care if you do it yourself or pay someone else or whatever, not something I'd think you'd want to do with your new-to-you car. My strong advice, if it seems fine, or even mostly fine, and if you can't verify "regular" fluid changes over car's life, and maybe even if you can, don't mess with it. Other bad part imo and in my personal psych's case, whenever I break something on any of my car toys, I always try to fix / replace it better than it was new to lessen the pain and anguish of having to do the repair in the first place, and short of a manual swap (read = uber uber reinvent the wheel type of involved and expensive and makes what MIGHT one day be a valuable / semi valuable rare car no longer stock in very substantial ways) there really is not much that can be done to make the trans better than stock new, few small small mainly longevity upgrades from my research and TCU upgrade to i.e. MTM as you mentioned which I did do with my repair. In other words, if your trans is working fine now and you blow it up trying to "take care" of it, and have it replaced, you will be no better off from a performance / driving perspective than you were prior to blowing it up, except you'll have a newer trans in place of the one that had been working fine anyway.... one semi mitigating factor to the root-canal-like pain of the engine-out procedure is that it will provide optimal opportunity for addressing whatever other sundry issues you might have with such an old car, many of which are likely total "good luck reaching that" type of propositions when that engine is in place, stuffed in there like a fat lady's foot in a high heel shoe a size too small, as that engine is. Enjoy the car and leave trans alone if its working fine, or if you insist on messing with it as my dumb non-listening ass did, at least drive it some first before you mess with it so you'll catch the bug and be motivated to fix it pronto after you blow it up.

[CBeau]

Damn.... I didn't realize how long that was until I hit post, I was just rattling off at the keyboard.... sorry.

[Aronis]

Damn.... I didn't realize how long that was until I hit post, I was just rattling off at the keyboard.... sorry.

Paragraphs....separate it into some paragraphs.


Agree, thus my statement above, just drive it as it is and add some oil now and then.

Mike

[travish325]

The 034 tip chip is awesome. If you want one I have a TCU from them with the chip in it. I just manual swapped mine so I'll make you a good deal on the TCU.

[SteveKen]

Leaking Intercoolers:

I had these cores welded onto the stock intercooler end tanks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AOBHDQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Leaking valve cover gaskets:

I've seen OEM ones leak just as bad as the aftermarket (Victor Reinz) ones. I think the key is to start with surfaces completely clean and do not over-torque them.

Too much crankcase pressure can cause this so an extreme measure is to replace the PCV (suction jet) valve. It's under the intake. Rare that this would be the problem.

Airbox screws:

If you want to go nuts, you can drill out all the screw holes, tap them and Helicol them (to prevent then from stripping out in the future) and use new sexy hardware.

[ttboost]

Damn.... I didn't realize how long that was until I hit post, I was just rattling off at the keyboard.... sorry.


Yeah...go in and edit some paragraphs...got 2 or 3 lines in and quit...my eyes hurt now...

[RS2racer]

Yeah...go in and edit some paragraphs...got 2 or 3 lines in and quit...my eyes hurt now...

Old man ; )

[ttboost]

Glass houses...

[JettaGLi16v]

Sorry, Guys! I was occupied in other arenas for a week or so. Anyone want to buy a 1995 S6?? 230K limes, lots of mods, and a few issues.

Cbeau: I appreciate the insightful novel ;) Everything you said makes sense to me (Sediment, detergents, crevices, etc). I feel comfortable tearing into virtually all aspects of a vehicle, but as far as I'm concerned, automatic transmissions are full of pixie dust and unicorn tears, so that's a no-go zone for me, along with bodywork / paint. It was my basic understanding that cars past vin 905500 had improved transmissions, and were less likely to grenade. Just for reference, what's your vin? And if anyone else has thoughts on the matter (early vs late VIN & trans fluid), please share!

travish325: You have PM. Thanks!

SteveKen: Re: intercoolers, that's an interesting way around the issue! I assume those cores are larger than stock, and more in line with the aftermarket options? And do I still run the secondary radiators? I live in Fl, so I'm hesitant to lose them (should I be?). Re: VC's: Yeah, that's kind of what I figured, I hear a lot of stories of leaking VC gaskets. I assume going to RTV or permatex is not the sensible play there? Re: Airbox screws: Nah, I'm good! I'll just pop one and see if I can source an identical fastener locally in SS.


Additional thoughts / questions:
-I am seeing a few folks deleting the SAI on the car. I am generally just not a fan of complicated emissions nonsense, and I live in a no inspection state, and the noise is definitely audible, and bothersome now that I have noticed it. I believe I'd have to get it coded out in the ECU. Any reason not to delete it? And will the car run OK without it before I get it coded out, or must I do both simultaneously? (I don't care about a non-functional CEL if I know why it's there)

-Whom should I look to for an ECU Tune? Seems like Nubcake and 10secS4 have the good rep on here, and Eurocharged had the good rep a few years ago. Any advice?

-I have noticed a very slight shimmy in the front end under acceleration and braking that gives feedback through the steering wheel. My assumption is that the control arms may be getting a little loose due to age. Any opinions on replacement arms? I thought everyone makes a set as they cross to the B5 (right?), but my preference would be to just go Meyle HD, and be done with it. Any advice there? I do plan on lowering it at some point, but don't think I need adjustable arms with heim joints or anything.

Thank you all!!

[papadoc]

Whom should I look to for an ECU Tune?

I had the APR tune on my first car, and have the 034 tune and tip chip on the current one. The 034 tune is better and far less expensive. They are just across the SF Bay from me, so I could have it done at their facility, and they have a good crew there. Lots of other goodies for the RS6 as well. You could call them to see if a shop local to you could do the tune for you, vs. buy the flash loader from them.

[DHall1]

034 tune

034 front control arm set is priced better than other sets

you don't need the adjustable uppers

support the vendor that's actually making a quality product at a fair price

done

papadoc, I found the Hellas and they are packed. Should make it to fedex next week

some love for the ol SQ5. Stumbled on these RS7 rims and threw on some 275/40/20s. I really need to find a good detailer. Hehe the 14 w40k is looking pretty shabby

18581

18582

[Cmnair]

My car came with APR ECU/TCU tune... really don’t have issues with it. Don’t have anything to compare it with except stock tune.

[JettaGLi16v]

papadoc: Thanks. I called 034, and they said there was a package deal with the tune and flash loader, and I thought it was only like an extra $100-150, so it's not a huge deal. But, I'll ask around the local scene as well. Someone's got to have one laying around. I'll ask tonight if I make it out to the Saturday night VAG meet. WOW! Looking at 034's dyno sheet for the tune, it goes from 9PSI to 17! Wow! That's a good bit of boost! Though I am spoiled, I had an 85 Jetta Turbo diesel running at 35PSI, and my 95 S6 would see 28PSI by 3000RPM, but they certainly weren't faster than this car.

DHall1: OK. Thanks. Also, the SQ5 looks great on those wheels! Well done! (And, you've got mail)

Can anyone confirm if I need to do anything special before lifting this car with DRC? I know some of the airbag VAG cars must be put in "Lift mode" before lifting them to avoid damage to the airbags.

Re: The slight shimmy in the front end, is there anything else I should look at that would be a likely culprit?

Thanks!

[Cmnair]

Wheel Shimmy - warped front rotors or unbalanced wheels, maybe Control arms? Bad engine mounts as well but may not cause a shimmy

[JettaGLi16v]

cmnair: thanks. I don't think it's braking related because it does it on light acceleration as well. I'm leaning towards control arms, but I'll verify before buying. It would make sense, just based on age and rubber degradation. I thought these motor mounts were electric and would throw a fault code when bad, no? If so, I know the car had no codes of significance when I first got it 3 weeks ago.

Thanks!

[Cmnair]

True... motor mounts would throw a code. Hopefully not drive shaft.... that would cause whole car to shimmy though

[nubcake]

Can anyone confirm if I need to do anything special before lifting this car with DRC? I know some of the airbag VAG cars must be put in "Lift mode" before lifting them to avoid damage to the airbags.

System is purely mechanical, so nothing special there.



Re: The slight shimmy in the front end, is there anything else I should look at that would be a likely culprit?

Front driveshafts (namely, inner tripods).

[JettaGLi16v]

nubcake: Thanks for confirmation about lifting the car. I'll start with checking the front arms, and if they all look good, can you describe what I am looking for in the front axles? I assume just slop in the CV joint?

[papadoc]

papadoc, I found the Hellas and they are packed. Should make it to fedex next week


Off topic a bit, but great to hear. Many thanks.

And nice look on the SQ5!

[JettaGLi16v]

papadoc: It's not that off topic, I'm waiting on these to be delivered from Cyprus ;)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-A6-C5-1-8T-2-4-2-7T-2-8-4-2-S6-1-9-TDI-2-5-TDI-HELLA-Smoked-Taillights/401553605726?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[JettaGLi16v]

WOW! That was awesome! I got my first kill in the black beast, 10 minutes ago!

I was getting ready to hang a u-turn, when I hear 2 loud v8 cars punching it going under a bridge onto a 3 lane road. So, of course, I jump in behind! It's a newer Mustang Boss 302, leading a Dodge Charger (didn't see if SRT or no), and a polaris 3 wheeler (far right lane) all getting on it. They ran up to 80 or so, and I'm reeling them in the whole time,. and go between them. The green mustang and I hit the next stop light (charger behind the mustang), and we all have our windows down. So I say to the mustang "How hard are we getting on it? 70%, 80%?", and the driver says 100%. OK, so I move the lever from D to S, and wait for the light. As soon as the light turns green, I put my foot down, and just start pulling on them. I had 4-5 car lengths by 80mph, and ran to 90-95. We hit the next light, and of course they were curious, so I enlightened them as to what's under the hood.

These cars are pretty freakin cool!
(But you all already knew that... forgive me, I'm just super excited right now.)

[DHall1]

Hehe

get me those data logs. You may already have a tune.

Even non car people get it sometimes. I was unloading the RS6 at the RV park in Colorado and the owner stopped over to see the car. First question "what is under the hood" because he heard the cold start and realized this was not a normal vehicle. Second question "what year is it" 2003 and his jaw dropped. Third statement "I bet this car is fast" yep, I could probably set the cruise at 200 mph. Lol

[JettaGLi16v]

DHall1: I'm on it. hopefully tomorrow. 3, 31, and 115, correct? Thanks!

[DHall1]

Yes

in turbo mode

do a ecu adaptation reset via battery cable or key foot method then perform test in 3rd 2500 to redline

2nd is ok if you don't have the runway

[papadoc]

papadoc: It's not that off topic, I'm waiting on these to be delivered from Cyprus ;)


Ah, sweet! Don't know how in the world you found these, but please post a pic once installed.

[JettaGLi16v]

papadoc: as requested! I wasn't sure if I would like them, but I totally love them! I was a bit worried that they might not be bright enough, but they are pretty much exactly as bright as my stock ones. I should have known better, I've had aftermarket Hella lights before.

https://imgur.com/a/y376q9v

I also want to get some smoked side markers, but those seem easy to find.

Does Anyone know where to source a european tag surround? I would like to get one of those, and put my matching euro plate in the back as well.

Thanks!
-Brad

[papadoc]

Hoping for the same look soon...

[DHall1]

Boxed and ready to go out on monday

18589

[JettaGLi16v]

WooHoo! Thanks to Travish325, I have an 034 chipped TCU to install tomorrow!

Dhall1: I've searched and searched, but then you say ECU Adaptation reset via the foot - key method, can you explain? I'll be taking it to a shop that has a VagCom, so they can do a reset as well via that, correct?

A few further questions, if you guys don't mind:

-I'm looking for a rear euro tag surround. Any sources? All the old links seem to have dried up. AliExpress has a new one for $100. Is it cheap crap?

-The previous owner had been doing oil changes every 5k, probably because that's what they put on the little sticker they put in your windshield. Is 10k generally considered OK? I know in my M96 3.4l Boxster (which has exploding engine tendencies) that it was generally accepted that the factory interval was optimistic, and recommended to do every 5k.

[DHall1]

10k if you're using a top tier oil

7500 is ok as well.

My BND went all the way to 10k and still tested perfect at Blackstone.

My RS6s no longer see daily miles so I will never see 10k intervals again.

Remove neg battery cable. Walk around the block. Hook it up again

Ymmv

[nubcake]

5K will hurt nothing, but your wallet. If you can afford that, do it.
10k is a bit too long for high-heat, high-output engine.

[hahnmgh63]

If it's AliExpress then it's definitely Chinese crap.

[JettaGLi16v]

Thanks for all the info, all!

I was able to contact a UK car breaker, and they had a very nice condition tag frame off of a C5, so that's in transit to me now.

Also, Wow! That TCU is a wonderful thing! I was in and out in a half hour, and it really shifts way better now. Super happy about that. Thanks, TravisH!

[JettaGLi16v]

Hey, guys!

Quick update:
Well, I'm pretty happy with the exterior condition of the car at this point. I'd like to do smoked side markers (and maybe take some of the chrome out of the inside of the headlights), but otherwise, I think I'm pretty good. On to functional mods!
The euro rear tag surround showed up, and was an easy install, but my US tag doesn't quite fit in there, so for now it's just sitting in the rear window.
https://imgur.com/a/aZ5jvMm?s

So far so good, the car continues to drive and operate excellently, and optimistically I've found a mechanic! He worked at audi for 15 years or so, has had his hands on a few RS6's, and is now at an independent shop.

I think first, I'll have him do an oil change / PPI (post-), and install a set of Hotchkis sway bars.

Incidentally, on the passenger side, both sway bar mounting bolts (on the 2 bold half moon shaped bracket) appear to be actually stripped, as well as no longer secured to the subframe. Each of them will rotate when you try to tighten the nut. Anyone got a good fix for this?

Thanks!
-B