74norton
June 11th, 2018, 16:33
I am in the middle of the Koni yellow swap.
My car had lived in Michigan before I got it so I have battled broken bolts. I wont even go into the pinch bolt because that MF about whipped me. I ended up having to buy a used steering knuckle because I couldnt get the frozen broken bolt out.
Here is my question. The stock dampers have a hole on the lower perch that is used to index the assembly such that the hole is facing inward.
The Koni perches dont have this hole.
I have a spring compressor that is mounted on the wall, so I removed the entire assy to do the build. I also put on new wheel bearings and new UCAs so I basically stripped most of the suspension.
I have my strut assembled and I didnt have to remove the plate that sits right on top of the spring. I also didnt move the spring from its position on the perch.
I was sure to line up the rubber stops in the bottom rubber part so the end of the spring is snug against it and the top is also snug on there since I didnt move it.
Here is my question.
The strut/spring unit can go into the top mounting hat the bolts to the car two ways, that is to say it can be rotated 180 and still fit. I am not sure if there is a right or wrong way to face it since I have no indexing hole on the new shock and I didnt reference this before I broke it apart.
There are three colored bars on my stock springs (red yellow blue) and I am not sure what these are but they are facing out, but not exactly in the position of those on the R side of the car (which I left built until i completed the L side so I could have a reference point).
Does it really matter which of the 180 options I choose for the unit to mount to the plate. That is does the way the spring coils are facing relative to the car really matter at all?
My thought is, NO, but before I tighten all my bolts, I still have a chance to remove the unit and flip it 180.
Any insight is greatly appreciated.
This job has been a BITCH due to my inexperience with the set up but mostly due to the corroded bolts that have been snapping.
I have seriously upped my game as a weekend mechanic with what I have learned on this job.
It helps that I have a full restoration shop at my disposal with several great mechanics to coach me.
But Im the owner not a mechanic so I have suffered through it.
Thanks
Charles
My car had lived in Michigan before I got it so I have battled broken bolts. I wont even go into the pinch bolt because that MF about whipped me. I ended up having to buy a used steering knuckle because I couldnt get the frozen broken bolt out.
Here is my question. The stock dampers have a hole on the lower perch that is used to index the assembly such that the hole is facing inward.
The Koni perches dont have this hole.
I have a spring compressor that is mounted on the wall, so I removed the entire assy to do the build. I also put on new wheel bearings and new UCAs so I basically stripped most of the suspension.
I have my strut assembled and I didnt have to remove the plate that sits right on top of the spring. I also didnt move the spring from its position on the perch.
I was sure to line up the rubber stops in the bottom rubber part so the end of the spring is snug against it and the top is also snug on there since I didnt move it.
Here is my question.
The strut/spring unit can go into the top mounting hat the bolts to the car two ways, that is to say it can be rotated 180 and still fit. I am not sure if there is a right or wrong way to face it since I have no indexing hole on the new shock and I didnt reference this before I broke it apart.
There are three colored bars on my stock springs (red yellow blue) and I am not sure what these are but they are facing out, but not exactly in the position of those on the R side of the car (which I left built until i completed the L side so I could have a reference point).
Does it really matter which of the 180 options I choose for the unit to mount to the plate. That is does the way the spring coils are facing relative to the car really matter at all?
My thought is, NO, but before I tighten all my bolts, I still have a chance to remove the unit and flip it 180.
Any insight is greatly appreciated.
This job has been a BITCH due to my inexperience with the set up but mostly due to the corroded bolts that have been snapping.
I have seriously upped my game as a weekend mechanic with what I have learned on this job.
It helps that I have a full restoration shop at my disposal with several great mechanics to coach me.
But Im the owner not a mechanic so I have suffered through it.
Thanks
Charles