How to tell if I'm chipped?

[SwartzUndGrun]

Please pardon my ignorance on this one but I purchased an RS6 almost 3 years ago now and I've wondered the entire time whether I want to leave it as is or go for a little more. Problem is, I don't know what I got and neither did the uber-shady dealer I bought it from.

So, how can I tell with things like: is it chipped or have the k04 been swapped for something else? I'm in the middle of fighting the beast so it can pass emissions (EVAP leak and SAI too low) so I can go routing around if need be but I have a VagCom as well so I would like a 5 minute scan type of solution. Beggars can't be choosers, I know but I'm an American, I like convenient (lazy) options.

BTW, 3 years later and I still love the RS6.:rs6kiss:

[DHall1]

Data log 3,31,115 in turbo mode

3rd gear pull to redline

do a sneaky reset before

[lswing]

It will actually be fast:)

As stated above, you will want to check boost, also egt and timing doesn't hurt, throw in O2 lambda also.

Stock boost is around 8-10psi I believe, most chipped cars are running 15-20 psi.

Software for your Windows laptop will be Ross-Tech VCDS, get it, worth th $250 easily. Has saved most of us thousands over the years, and headaches, with getting a very good diagnosis from the cars sensors.

Also, you can't check with a scan, but having your TCU tuned for better shifting is really a nice upgrade, and can help the trans live longer. The old chips were soldered into the TCU, and I think companies like 034 motorsports offers a flash of the TCU instead of the sketchy solder in chip...

[nubcake]

Check VCDS "Generic OBD", "Mode 9", post a screenshot.
Might be able to tell from CVN (if VCDS picks that up on ME7, not 100% sure).

[DKP]

Greetings from CO. Long time troll part time poster. Iswing can you elaborate on TCU tuning for better shifting and the part that got me going "help keep the trans alive longer" I've always been a leave it stock guy but that statement has me curious. Thanks

[DHall1]

The tcu tune is nice to have but

if the torque converter seal is going to go it's going to go

the other failure part that is seldom talked about here is the valve in the valve body that wears out. There is a replacement/upgrade. I have saved somewhere....check quattroworld in the D2 S8 section.

[lswing]

Yep, basically what was said. The shifts will be a bit crisper with a TCU tune, in theory reducing the time the clutches are merging and wearing on each other. Best thing is just cautious driving and not hammering on it.

If the torque converter seal is going to fail, it was typically from the factory and failed in the early years.

The TCU tune is a very minor modification I would say...

[DKP]

Thanks for the reply. This web site has got me so paranoid about the trans that I don't often let myself enjoy the full capabilities of the car. I do let all fluids get up to temp before I get too busy. Think ill look into this TCU tune you speak of.

[SwartzUndGrun]

Well, if these figures are correct then it's definitely chipped. Logs say max pressure is 1670 millibar which appears to translate to 24 Lbs boost pressure. At least assuming that the obviously incorrect reading of over 300 g/s from G246 isn't somehow causing over-boosting...

[DHall1]

Subtract atm

you are stock

post results

[G2]

In addition, these trans (5HP24) are high needs for servicing, certainly when mated to unleashed BCY making 150 lb/ft more torque. On a trans only rated for 415lb/ft. Either way oil should be kept reasonably clean. For a daily driver changing/flushing ALL the oil (14-18qts needed) and filter every 2-3 years keeps them going. Cars with OEM ATF have the worst fluid condition I see time after time. Including large debris and gunk in the pans, magnets are always like furry little mice. Ewww. Keep in mind the trans also downshift = 2X more shifts than a normal slushbox.

Just did a trans service on a newer All-road with the 8spd with 41K miles. Fluid was a bit dark and cloudy, no pan debris but magnets were furry. Changed all the diff oils, engine, coil packs and plugs - Smart customer. Spark plugs would have likely come out on their own in another year (risk of cylinder head damage) or tow. Amsoil was used as always.

Switched my car to Amsoil over 5+ years ago with a questionable abused transmission. Tried some custom ATF blending with good results. Did a lot of hard driving this year vetting the new rear big brake kit. So far so good, and I don't hold back aside from a slightly detuned tune (15 PSI?). Driving in TIP mode helps avoid the excessive kick downs and slippage - downshift before too much power is needed or just hold the gear - simply good practice on any autobox. -- Wish my car shifted like my Allison HT755CR. Also a 5 spd auto, except is rated for 80,000 lbs and 1500+ lb/ft. Very firm and quick shifts, keeping slippage to a minimum (and heat), even with a 736 cu/in supercharged and turbo charged 2 stroke military grade (tanks; big transport vehicles) beast of an engine hammering away on it. Same engine that makes 700+hp (and 3X the torque) in Marine applications used on luxury yachts and tug boats. Cold water does wonders for power.

Adding insult to injury, have yet to see a RS6 trans that was correctly filled (it could also be evaporation, entirely likely like as in truck 4x4 transfer cases = seized/failure). A RS trans always needs a top off few days or weeks later, no matter how well it's filled or temperature compensated - normally up to 1/2 quart. Not a per se problem, but I feel better knowing a trans is completely full.

Get a TCU tune and do a complete service. Cheap insurance that also improves the driving experience.

[SwartzUndGrun]

1842318424

[DHall1]

Bone stock and running well

[SwartzUndGrun]

Good stuff. Other than the sensor being bad, is there any other potential cause for one of the MAFs registering at least 300 G/s but the other to report numbers within range?

[nubcake]

Good stuff. Other than the sensor being bad, is there any other potential cause for one of the MAFs registering at least 300 G/s but the other to report numbers within range?

Easy way to check the sensor is to swap MAFs left to right.
If the problem goes to the other side, it's obviously the sensor.

[SwartzUndGrun]

Hey, that's a wonderful idea! I wish I would have thought of that a couple weeks ago, I would have been able to either order the sensor or fix the electrical issue long before spring break... Thank you.