Battery Icon, “FUSE” over odometer, bolts needle at zero

[Aronis]

Car was running but today battery icon lit up with word “FUSE” over odometer and volt meter is pinned at left side.

Any ideas?

Mike

[Aronis]

Fuse for instrument cluster blew, and if I replace it it blows immediately. So must be a short somewhere.

Hunting this weekend.

Mike

[Aronis]

Took dash panel off, and did not find any frayed wires.

Found another link on Audiworld (and several helpful posters) and it may be the Alternator Regulator. Thus why my battery had a premature death?

Mike

[hahnmgh63]

Not too fun to replace with the motor in the car but you can move a few things to get at it. Regulator is cheap but labor will be expensive unless you're doing it yourself...then just some skinned knuckles.

[hahnmgh63]

I just did a search for 077903803A and it seems like the price is way up here in the states, around $160. I bought mine in Germany a couple of years ago for about 40 Euro. I might have to try to bring 5 of them back next time, even if they've gone up a little in price. And the one I bought was a Bosch, but Huco makes them too and probably just as good.

[Aronis]

I found one at ECS for $37. Bosch 0021545806. ECS says it is the correct part for RS6. I'm going to call my local dealer on Monday for a quote and the proper part number. My Alternator was replaced at 100,000 miles.

Mike

[Aronis]

And it actually looks like a pretty straight for ward job....

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/19720-Alternator-replacement?highlight=alternator+replacement

Mike

[Aronis]

I could not find the short after poking around under the dash. I left everything open until tonight.

I drove it to work today, it runs fine.

Before leaving I checked the battery voltage and it was 12 V. With car running it was 14 volts and I could not see any A/C voltage at the battery.

Getting at the alternator to properly check out the voltage regulator is a problem.

So tonight after driving home in the snow storm, I just put the drivers side panel back on, buttoned things up and SCREW IT. Drive it as is.

Mike

[Aronis]

Ok, I swapped out the Instrument Cluster with a second hand one. * I put a new fuse in fuse 15 and turned the car on. *The volt meter works, the word "fuse" was gone, and the lights on the transmission shifter work, but the other interior lights still do not light up. *I could not run the car due to the immobilizer, but it turned over.

I put the original back in and of course that fuse blew immediately. *Now I am wondering if there is a short out side of the instrument cluster in one of those interior lights somewhere.

I have the car 'on' with the old unit in and hope the thing will "Sync" and the car will run, otherwise I am SCREWED since the "key" symbol is blinking and I may need to tow the car to the dealer to get it reprogramed. *I was told I could just plug the old unit back in and the car would run, but maybe that was not correct. *DAM IT! *I'll know in 20 minutes or so.

This blows.

​​​​​​​Mike

[Aronis]

Car is "immobilized." So much for getting info from "the internet" LOL.

I'll contact my local mechanic and see if he can make a house call with his computer.

What a PAIN in the ass.

Mike

[nubcake]

Classic case of misunderstanding/miscommunication.
The original question was about unplugging the cluster and plugging it back in. There was no mention of "trying to start the car with mismatched cluster" between those two. :doh:

You likely have an error stored in ECU's EEPROM now. Which is a bitch to write to.
One of the solutions is to re-flash with "immo off" flash file, then get this sorted later.
Another option is adapting the used cluster with VCDS. Need to dig out PIN codes from both new and old one.

EDIT:
Actually.
I have never seen a mismatched cluster trigger an ECU EEPROM error.
Can try having the original cluster in the car, then disconnecting the battery for a couple of mins, then connecting it back. Should clear all faults and allow the car to start.
YMMV, though. The fact that I haven't seen that, doesn't mean that such a thing doesn't exist. Didn't mess much with immo.

[mdegracia]

See, this is what happens when you go new car shopping, the RS got jealous...lol!

[Aronis]

Classic case of misunderstanding/miscommunication.
The original question was about unplugging the cluster and plugging it back in. There was no mention of "trying to start the car with mismatched cluster" between those two. :doh:

You likely have an error stored in ECU's EEPROM now. Which is a bitch to write to.
One of the solutions is to re-flash with "immo off" flash file, then get this sorted later.
Another option is adapting the used cluster with VCDS. Need to dig out PIN codes from both new and old one.

EDIT:
Actually.
I have never seen a mismatched cluster trigger an ECU EEPROM error.
Can try having the original cluster in the car, then disconnecting the battery for a couple of mins, then connecting it back. Should clear all faults and allow the car to start.
YMMV, though. The fact that I haven't seen that, doesn't mean that such a thing doesn't exist. Didn't mess much with immo.

Thank you....

I reset all the DTC's with VAG Com and the car is running again with the original instrument cluster back in.

So....next.......


I have to figure out where the other short is. I don't think that a mismatched instrument cluster would stop the interior lights from working.

When I put my ohm meter on the wire going out to the interior lights I got a short to ground. This is not right, there should be some resistance noted due to the light bulbs (all in parallel of course) but not a short to ground. Am I correct on that?

I don't dare get the new cluster coded and just have the fault show again after a few weeks. Remember, the dimming thing started with intermittent function then the battery was dead, replaced the battery, car ran fine, later the interior lights stopped working completely, and then a bit later I got that blown fuse 15.. So I cannot ignore that. Should be fun to check every wire going to every light.

Mike

[Aronis]

See, this is what happens when you go new car shopping, the RS got jealous...lol!

When I am up at the dealer next time YOU'RE BUYING LUNCH! Syracuse. Just noticed now....LOL... Bring your RS, I wont take your instrument cluster.....

Mike

[nubcake]

My idea is that it might be convenience module (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ur9Net2xgiU), which is conveniently located below waterline and is prone to water ingress & corrosion.
Whether it's responsible for interior lighting - I'm not sure, but definitely sounds possible. All the issues with lock, radio etc - also hint at that.

[Aronis]

My idea is that it might be convenience module (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ur9Net2xgiU), which is conveniently located below waterline and is prone to water ingress & corrosion.
Whether it's responsible for interior lighting - I'm not sure, but definitely sounds possible. All the issues with lock, radio etc - also hint at that.

Yes, possibly. I'll take a look at the bentley wire diagram for that info.

Thank you,

Mike

[ben916]

There are TWO RS6 instrument clusters f/s on Audizine...

[Aronis]

There are TWO RS6 instrument clusters f/s on Audizine...

I got one already.

[Aronis]

Update:

I disconnected the instrument cluster again to back check some wires.

The blue connector from the Instrument cluster at Pin 20 goes to the interior lights. I measured 0.8 to 1.2 ohms to ground. This is going through light bulbs all in parallel, about 10 lights as best I can tell from the wire diagram, and if they are about 5 watts and if are running on 12 v, then the resistance expected would be about 1 ohm or so.

I went through the exercise (and I do mean exercise) of unplugging the connectors going to the drivers side door. and this value did not changes much at Pin 20. So I don't think there is a short in the drivers door wire harness. (it was a FRIGGEN PAIN IN THE A&& to get at those plugs, as the panel that covers them is captivated by the dashboard along the side, instead of being easily removed, dumb design, and the connector have two snaps that have to be simultaneously bent out....you get the picture....) By backing the wires out of the door frame I got a better look at their condition and there are no breaks in the insulation noted.

I checked the continuity to the wire running to the dimmer, Pin 30 on Green connector, and that was fine, no shorts to ground.

I checked the function of the dimmer Rheostat itself and got a range of 0.3 ohms to 8.50 K ohms (same for my original dimmer switch), so that is working correctly. I verified that the ground to the dimmer switch was actually connected to ground.

I think it's time to give up and either live with it they way it is.....or take it to the dealer for a look as they have better diagnostic tools at their hands.

If I have the new instrument cluster installed by them, and it fries also, then I am set back the cost of that second hand part. If I let them order a new one from Germany and that new one fails then they are on the line for that cost.

Mike

[mdegracia]

When I am up at the dealer next time YOU'RE BUYING LUNCH! Syracuse. Just noticed now....LOL... Bring your RS, I wont take your instrument cluster.....

Mike

Sure!

Well, the weather is getting better, so I have been getting the itch to take her out of hibernation!