It was time - again...

[Bigglezworth]

Has been a solid 5 years since anything 'major' undertaken on my Daytona and after the past few months collecting a bunch of parts, pulled the beast in to the garage and tore everything down. The passenger turbo had bad blow-by and was filling the intercooler with oil. Alternator was getting pretty loud also, so great time to attend to a number of things.

List of items replaced (in no particular order):
Fuel filter
Fuel pressure regulator
CHRA's on both turbos
SS piggies and performance cats
Center drive shaft input and output bearings
Engine mounts
Transmission mounts
Differential mounts
Alternator
A/C recharge
Upper controls arms
Lower bushings
Inner and outer tie-rods
Welded intercooler leaks
Timing belt c/w rollers, idler, I tensioner
Water pump & T-stat
Accessory belt c/w idler and tensioner pulley's
Air pump
PCV
Air filters
Front pads
Cabin filter
Oil & filter
Detailed engine clean

Had already don't timing chains & cam seals a year and a bit ago, so that was fine. Also had done the tranny and convertor 4 years ago (should have done turbo's at that point...). Should be great for another number of years to rip up the street.

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[Aronis]

cam tensioners.

Mike

[Bigglezworth]

cam tensioners.

MikeI did the pads less than 10K ago when I swapped out valve covers gaskets and cam seals. Forgot to mention, I'm doing a master cylinder and SS lines for the front also.I really should be good for some time now. Knock on wood.

[lswing]

Very nice list...and shiny parts too, drool...

[CBeau]

I did the pads less than 10K ago when I swapped out valve covers gaskets and cam seals. Forgot to mention, I'm doing a master cylinder and SS lines for the front also.I really should be good for some time now. Knock on wood.

I'm getting ready to pull engine related to trans replace and do a whole engine-out laundry list.... since your mentioning cam tensioners, what's your opinion on changing pads vs whole tensioner units? I know there are threads more specific to this and I've read some, but just thought I'd ask, seems like you've been down this road a couple times b4. I don't blv or doubt pads or tensioners ever changed on my car. 90k miles. No symptoms or issues but I'm sure pads are due or past and at least old and ready to crumble petrified plastic. Its just getting harder and harder to justify crazy expensive parts like those tensioner units - esp if not really needed - for a car frequently selling now sub $10k, crappy ones for about what a pair of tensioner units would cost!! I know that's not the best logic or mantra when owning one of these love-it-or-leave-it Beasts, but still a reality that creeps into my mind. But of course, Murphy's law, if I went thru all that and just did pads and a tensioner failed soon after.... I'd want to shoot myself and the Beast. Do the units fail frequently? Or are we getting to an age range just now where its hard to say from prior history up to this point? Could susceptibility to failure hinge on frequency of use / running of car? Its not been used much past year, but at least started and brought up to temps at least semi frequently.

[Bigglezworth]

It's my observation that your pads will be worn. How much is not a science as things such as dirty oil, idling, temperatures, etc., can all weigh in on the extent of wear on engine parts. I would recommend to anyone with an engine in the 100-120K mile range (i.e. 200K kms) to swap pads. I personally would only undertake a swap of the tensioners themselves if you are pulling codes that are not related to pad wear and don't have excessive valve chatter upon start-up (time to build oil pressure due to wear).

I have only heard of a couple failing amongst many in service. These aren't like the Gen 1 DRC which failed every second weekend it seemed....

[fukinavit]

advanced automotion have cam tensioner kits at the mo, not sure if this is a good price or not, this is per cylinder head.
http://advancedautomotion.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/65_70_77/products_id/174
mine has 130km on it and sounds fine, so i must just do the pads anyway. ill be pulling the engine of my new one in January so its interesting to see others shopping lists.
the downpipes are definatley being done, those look great Bigglezworth, any details on the brand and how much?

also a slightly beefed up torque converter, they have a few options on these, mainly stall speed.
http://advancedautomotion.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/780

[CBeau]

advanced automotion have cam tensioner kits at the mo, not sure if this is a good price or not, this is per cylinder head.
http://advancedautomotion.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/65_70_77/products_id/174
mine has 130km on it and sounds fine, so i must just do the pads anyway. ill be pulling the engine of my new one in January so its interesting to see others shopping lists.
the downpipes are definatley being done, those look great Bigglezworth, any details on the brand and how much?

also a slightly beefed up torque converter, they have a few options on these, mainly stall speed.
http://advancedautomotion.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/780

Wow!! That $400 per kit incl. tensioner unit is nothing what I recall seeing for Audi parts elsewhere. I thought they were like $1k++ each. Maybe I'm totally recalling wrong. But somebody on here wrote about putting new Audi tensioners on and it was some huge ##... I'm sure of it.

[Aronis]

I got a kit which included all the seals for a valve cover job which included the tensioner pads. It as $400 if I recall but had every seal needed.

You have to look at the surfaces of the tensioner to know for sure if there is damage do you have to remove them to do so. They are pretty robust internally and mechanically so if the pads are intact and just worn changing just the plastic pad part is fine. If there is wear beyond the pad, you're out of luck.

And I am pretty sure you need to then replace all 58 bolts that hold the cams in place.

Chime in here if anyone changed the pads without removing the whole tensioner unit, looks doable I guess.

They are about $700 each and the two are DIFFERENT parts, so be careful.

Mike

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[lswing]

Wow!! That $400 per kit incl. tensioner unit is nothing what I recall seeing for Audi parts elsewhere. I thought they were like $1k++ each. Maybe I'm totally recalling wrong. But somebody on here wrote about putting new Audi tensioners on and it was some huge ##... I'm sure of it.

That's not OEM, China stuff, good luck. OEM is around $750-800 each. I went with the complete OEM kit just to be sure since labor is pain.

At the same time, over 5 years on here and I've never heard of someone's cam tensioners failing, maybe one case of the solenoid actually, usually it's just the pads about every 70-120k.

[GreggPDX]

I used the Blauparts kit to change the pads on mine. At 78K miles, my stock pads had only slight grooving, they probably could have gone another 78K with no big issues. That said, if the engine is out, it's reasonably cheap insurance to replace the pads, and you should definitely at least pull the valve covers to inspect the upper pads.

I would guess that oil maintenance is critical to pad longevity. These are metal-on-plastic with splash lubrication, I expect they are not very tolerant of old, dirty oil.

[fukinavit]

when i did my first engine pull i did all the areas that are discussed often here as weak points. mine had 200,000kms, had full dealer service history although the engine had never been out. The turbos had next to zero radial play, the plastic coolant pipe(now bufkin) was is great shape, not brittle or leaking. the tensioner pads had minor surface wear that could be bearly felt by your fingernail. The only thing badly worn was the brushes on the alternator and the obvious leaking intercoolers.
i did do the pads, brushes, seals, water pump, belt, rollers, 2nd air pump and rad delete, gutted the downpipes and an allround re-seal.
i was actually very impressed with all the components and just did alot of them because i was there.
im going to be pulling the engine on my new one in janurary, which has 130,000km, so i hope its in much the same condition, fingers crossed!!:incar:

[fukinavit]

That's not OEM, China stuff, good luck. OEM is around $750-800 each. I went with the complete OEM kit just to be sure since labor is pain.

At the same time, over 5 years on here and I've never heard of someone's cam tensioners failing, maybe one case of the solenoid actually, usually it's just the pads about every 70-120k.

apparently its an OE supplier, no audi logo, but they are all made in china now.

[CBeau]

Thanks guys for input RE tensioner units. I haven't even pulled engine yet and cracked covers off but after esteemed inputs I def. just plan on pad replacement unless condition dictates otherwise. I will have plenty other things to contend with on it, preventative and general bc 15 yr. old car, once engine down. Its my winter objective.... one of many. I'd really like to upgrade power but I'd like to continue to enjoy the car the way it is and was, and I have other power fiend outlets...and just not really at an appetite for challenging that trans which is why I'm getting ready to do this major surgery in the first place. My goal is to just make the car a close-to-mint survivor, and its so iconic of a model there is nothing wrong with "stock" and well kept imo. You want to go all in?? I have other weapons. This RS6 baby has fragilities, so for me just make it as good and up to par as it was originally meant to be, and enjoy. They don't make cars like this anymore. No major mfg.er does. Different time, different global paradigm and all that. Skip BaT sales of cruddy ones for $4k.... if you're not selling who cares? That would be me in the no care camp... love mine.

[DHall1]

Wise man!

i have only slightly modded my RS6s. To the point I feel they are still 100% reliable. Coilovers? Yes but generally they look oem and mint.

I have always been in the who cares camp. That should surprise nobody here. Lol



Thanks guys for input RE tensioner units. I haven't even pulled engine yet and cracked covers off but after esteemed inputs I def. just plan on pad replacement unless condition dictates otherwise. I will have plenty other things to contend with on it, preventative and general bc 15 yr. old car, once engine down. Its my winter objective.... one of many. I'd really like to upgrade power but I'd like to continue to enjoy the car the way it is and was, and I have other power fiend outlets...and just not really at an appetite for challenging that trans which is why I'm getting ready to do this major surgery in the first place. My goal is to just make the car a close-to-mint survivor, and its so iconic of a model there is nothing wrong with "stock" and well kept imo. You want to go all in?? I have other weapons. This RS6 baby has fragilities, so for me just make it as good and up to par as it was originally meant to be, and enjoy. They don't make cars like this anymore. No major mfg.er does. Different time, different global paradigm and all that. Skip BaT sales of cruddy ones for $4k.... if you're not selling who cares? That would be me in the no care camp... love mine.

[Bigglezworth]

I did the pads less than 10K ago when I swapped out valve covers gaskets and cam seals. Forgot to mention, I'm doing a master cylinder and SS lines for the front also.I really should be good for some time now. Knock on wood.
Going to toss on some next to new Gallardo rotors while we're at it. >gasp<
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[fbatwork]

Bigglez - where did you get your rotors from, likely going to need to do mine in the spring...

[Bigglezworth]

Bigglez - where did you get your rotors from, likely going to need to do mine in the spring...Bought them from a ebay auction 3 years ago. $200.00 for the pair . lol That was prior to the word leaking out that the Gallardo rotors are a cross fit.

[fbatwork]

Ok thanks....

[Bigglezworth]

Ok thanks....lol You sound diflated. Sorry, I had two sets of spare rotors sitting on shelves for the past while so can't comment on specifics for best place top purchase. There has been a couple of ebay listers selling OEM spec rotors sans Audi stamping for pretty decent prices.

[fbatwork]

Certainly not the end of the world, I’ll keep a lookout - going to be due in the spring along with tires!

[BrianC72gt]

A voyeur from the land of D2 A8, I've had the heads off mine 25k ago at around 150k miles, lapped the valves, new seals, guides were ok enough. I put in new pads on the cam timing adjusters, as mine only make a momentary noise at startup after extended periods of no use. Anyway, if I pursue any crazy mods, I suppose I'd add a startup pre-oiler to bring pressure up before cranking in order to pump up the cam adjusters. This way they are fully extended before cranking. Cheap insurance? If startup is the only time your cam chains make a racket, why not. Viagra sticker on pre-oiler reservoir is mandatory.

Regards,

Brian C.