Engine pull

[Jorisrs6]

Hello. This winter my engine is coming out for several reasons. I would like to do most of the work myself but i cant find a detailed diy on it. Does anyone know a thread or a link or a book or whatever. Thanks

joris:addict:

[Aronis]

Book! LMAO! You want to learn RS6 Engine Pull from a BOOK!!!! Mr. Miyagi say "No learn from Book." Must apprentice with an experienced mechanic. Start with an engine pull on a John Deere lawn tractor then work yourself up.

:) There is of course the Bentley Manual, available on CD. Has all the steps for an engine pull.

I don't have full access to mine but I did pull out several key chapters. (bentley security on their products is a bite in the A$$, I had mine on a hard drive from a dead notebook but up to recently I could still open the files).

Starts like this:

18344

I can email the PDF's that I have to you, just shoot me an email address. It's 3.6 megabytes, can send with my iCloud account.

Mike

[Jorisrs6]

Ok haha. Ive got time and space to do it. Does the cd have more information than the bentley book? My email is jorismelissant@hotmail.com. I appreciate it. Id like to do some of the pull myself to save some $$. The other work and putting it together will be done by my mechanic. Ps whats so stupid about a book? Bentley manual seems pretty helpful lol

[Aronis]

email sent.

Mike.

[DHall1]

I had to chuckle myself

there is the book. Yes

but unless you're a well skilled tech already this may not end well.

[lswing]

As mentioned, it's a very technical and tedious job. All I can offer is a hint for searching this forum, and good luck!

Use Google, and "site:rs6.com engine pull", or your term of choice.

Fix any line or seal you can while the engine is out. Bufkin oil cooler pipe will be one of them...cam seals...replace any old/worn vacuum lines...the list is a long one...

[Jorisrs6]

Yes ive searched but didt find anything really helpful. I received some good info from mike. But it looks like i wont be doing it myself. For this year ill just do the easy stuff myself and let my mechanic do the difficult stuff. However i hope to be able to do an engine pull by myself in the future cuz it seems like they need to come out every year atleast☹️

[DHall1]

I have owned one of my RS6s 11 years. Engine has never been out, trans has never gone kaput, torque converter is original

my other RS6 was my daily for years. Put over 60k daily driven miles on it. Engine out 1 time for a blown trans. Early vin. Other than that. No other failures.




Yes ive searched but didt find anything really helpful. I received some good info from mike. But it looks like i wont be doing it myself. For this year ill just do the easy stuff myself and let my mechanic do the difficult stuff. However i hope to be able to do an engine pull by myself in the future cuz it seems like they need to come out every year atleast☹️

[Jorisrs6]

my rs6 is from 03 and has 120k miles. Original trans and torque convertor. However i see in the maintanance papers that the engine has been out for otger stuff twice in the last two years. Anyways. I bought a trans with 30k on it. New unit from audi in 2008. I still havent decided what torque convertor i should get. Since im planning on going stage 2 i will likely go with the one from advanced automotion. Other suggestions?

[Bigglezworth]

planning on going stage 2...Clearly new to RS6 rhelm. I am one of the few that has owned a trio of these at once, and in all the years I've been wrenching and tweeking them have never heard of a "staged" car... Get that jargon out of the way and tell us just what it is you 'want' to do, and we can then provide some insight on what you 'can and cannot' do - or at least insight on what you may likely experience challenges with.

I've just done a 5th RnR on one of the beasts here for replacement of turbos and numerous other maintenance related items so can shed a great deal of light on what you're up against.

Drop me a PM if you like.

[Jorisrs6]

Yes im new. Probably also the youngest rs6 owner here��. Bought it when i was 19. Anyways. With stage 2 i just meant intake, downpipes and a tune. I was only thinking of pulling the engine out so i can keep my car in my shop and work on the brakes etc at the same time as my mechanic works on the engine. Turbos will be rebuilt, timing belt, valve covers, seals gasgets, vacuum lines etc. Goal is ofcourse to do it all at once. Do you perhaps have a list of what you all replaced or recommend yo replace? Thanks

[Bigglezworth]

Ah yes. The 'affordable' RS6 that is now within reach for many. I can see the drool. lol I hope your project turns out the way you hope and that you aren't broke in the end. Sounds like you have a pretty big vision that can easily cost 5digits plus if you're not careful.....which for some may be near the price they paid for one of these cars in the first instance.

Intake works just fine on these cars and there is no need to swap out. There are a few that have tried different configurations (both cold air and hot air) with no one able to cite any performance gains over the OEM cold air set-up. This isn't a naturally aspirated car and as such modifications other than ensuring the air charge is cold and non-restricted are all you need - which OEM does just fine.

This isn't a 'simple' engine pull - per see. It's systematic in that as long as you work through all the steps and associated parts and pieces it comes out nicely. There is a host of work to do a pull and even after doing it almost a half dozen times, it still takes a solid 5-6 hours to get everything removed/unbolted (presuming you don't experience any problems with anything), and nearly the same amount of time to reinstall. All other work to replace parts is over and above those time frames except for perhaps a few external incidentals that have to come off anyway to facilitate removal.

Lots of information on this site and other sites which some members post links to. If you haven't already, it would be a good idea to start spending some downtime in the evenings reading a bunch of threads on things related to your vision. Lots of eye opening discussion!

[Jorisrs6]

Yes bigglesworth. It was an affordable rs6. That was beause i got 20k off of the original listing price. It was listed for 30k and i ended up buying it for 10. Believe it or not. It is actually a really clean usa car with all maintenance ip to date and always dealer maintained. I have all maintenance papers and information of the car. and at the time of purchase it was great, but over the summer trans got worse till the point tgat it doesnt move no more. I have a new f150 as daily so i got all winter to get it done. I have done two engines pulls before but this is certainly a step up. Im doing a lot of research and have found the basic steps. Yet i have not found a very detailed diy yet. I appreciate everyone comments so far!

[Bigglezworth]

Yet i have not found a very detailed diy yet.There's a reason for that. It's significant and not many owners undertake it on their own. A good portion of the people that could afford this car new had the $ (and warranty) that facilitated the stealerships performing the work. As mentioned a number of times over the years, the fact that they had a dedicated table to use as part of the open heart surgery needed to fix certain parts of the power plant, suggests it's not ordinary by any means.

Now with the car being on the inexpensive side to purchase, many are buying without insight to what it takes to maintain. If you aren't a more advanced wrencher, you could well be out of pocket BIG $$. It's that's simple.

You have a car for $10K that is certain to be another $10K to meet your vision. Why not buy the $20K car in the first place?

[CBeau]

There's a reason for that. It's significant and not many owners undertake it on their own. A good portion of the people that could afford this car new had the $ (and warranty) that facilitated the stealerships performing the work. As mentioned a number of times over the years, the fact that they had a dedicated table to use as part of the open heart surgery needed to fix certain parts of the power plant, suggests it's not ordinary by any means.

Now with the car being on the inexpensive side to purchase, many are buying without insight to what it takes to maintain. If you aren't a more advanced wrencher, you could well be out of pocket BIG $$. It's that's simple.

You have a car for $10K that is certain to be another $10K to meet your vision. Why not buy the $20K car in the first place?

Yeah.... like a V8 supercharged or V12 twin turbo AMG!! Its a joke....kind of.... don't ban me please. Actually parts on those are worse $$.... but they aren't as storied of a love-hate relationship as the fabled RS6... I don't think anything gets more love hate than RS6 for any car built since the advent of indoor plumbing.

[Jorisrs6]

Now with the car being on the inexpensive side to purchase, many are buying without insight to what it takes to maintain. If you aren't a more advanced wrencher, you could well be out of pocket BIG $$. It's that's simple.

You have a car for $10K that is certain to be another $10K to meet your vision. Why not buy the $20K car in the first place?

Would a 20k rs6 have given me the guarantee of being reliable? No! Or did you mean another car for 20k

[P1054]

I also bought my first RS6 when I was a bit younger (23 if I recall correctly), and it was a big step up from my previous Acura. As I fairly quickly discovered, parts are definitely more expensive, and an RS6 tends to need more of them more often, BUT it's absolutely possible to do your own work, including engine pulls and transmission swaps. When I bought mine, the most complex mechanic work I had previously performed was a timing belt change on the aforementioned Acura. I've now done 2 manual conversions (unfortunately my first RS6 ended up totaled), replaced all the front control arms, built and installed custom straight pipes, replaced the timing belt several times, removed and reinstalled the front bumper more times than I care to count, removed and modified the cluster with a new color display, replaced the EGT sensor PCBs with "better" ones, and a handful of other things. It's not that RS6s are necessarily "hard" to work on, you just have to follow the proper sequence.

I would highly recommend trying to get ahold of a copy of ElsaWin, the old Audi factory software. It contains detailed step-by-step directions for pretty much anything you could possibly need to repair or replace on the car. I have a Bentley manual as well, but mainly only use it for the wiring diagrams. And if you can track down a copy of ETKA (the Audi part-number software), that will also help. There is also a website called realoem.me (similar to realoem.com for BMW) that contains most of the same information as ETKA that is very useful.

While I'm on the subject of software, get a RossTech VagCom cable if you don't already have one. It will help immensely if/when you have any trouble codes.

For parts, get familiar with sites like ECS Tuning, Pelican Parts, FCP Euro, Autohaus AZ, Blauparts, Genuine Audi Parts, and others.

And finally, spend lots of time on this forum! As with most forums, try and do your due diligence and search before asking a "common" question. If you can't find the answer by searching, post the question and most on here are more than happy to share their wealth of knowledge. I for one have learned a ton from this forum, and even met up with several other local RS6 owners.

Welcome, and hopefully your RS6 experience is a rewarding as mine has been!

[Aronis]

DHall1 will be happy to come to your house and help you for food and beer.

Mike

[Bigglezworth]

Would a 20k rs6 have given me the guarantee of being reliable? No! Or did you mean another car for 20kI mean a 20K RS6 that has records of being properly maintained and already had big ticket items rectified. Then you would have a true representation of what this car actually costs. As it currently sits, you could exceed that depending on what you do or don't have to get another qualified person to work on, what you will or will not look to replace from a responsible maintenance effort, and what you must replace due to the current condition.

[ttboost]

Only 2 ways to pull this engine...out the bottom, or out the bottom...

[Jorisrs6]

I also bought my first RS6 when I was a bit younger (23 if I recall correctly), and it was a big step up from my previous Acura. As I fairly quickly discovered, parts are definitely more expensive, and an RS6 tends to need more of them more often, BUT it's absolutely possible to do your own work, including engine pulls and transmission swaps. When I bought mine, the most complex mechanic work I had previously performed was a timing belt change on the aforementioned Acura. I've now done 2 manual conversions (unfortunately my first RS6 ended up totaled), replaced all the front control arms, built and installed custom straight pipes, replaced the timing belt several times, removed and reinstalled the front bumper more times than I care to count, removed and modified the cluster with a new color display, replaced the EGT sensor PCBs with "better" ones, and a handful of other things. It's not that RS6s are necessarily "hard" to work on, you just have to follow the proper sequence.

that is good to hear. I have some experience and have friends with more experience so ill give it a shot

I would highly recommend trying to get ahold of a copy of ElsaWin, the old Audi factory software. It contains detailed step-by-step directions for pretty much anything you could possibly need to repair or replace on the car. I have a Bentley manual as well, but mainly only use it for the wiring diagrams. And if you can track down a copy of ETKA (the Audi part-number software), that will also help. There is also a website called realoem.me (similar to realoem.com for BMW) that contains most of the same information as ETKA that is very useful.

never heard of elsawin but it sounds like this is exactly what i need.

While I'm on the subject of software, get a RossTech VagCom cable if you don't already have one. It will help immensely if/when you have any trouble codes.

Yes im going to order one

For parts, get familiar with sites like ECS Tuning, Pelican Parts, FCP Euro, Autohaus AZ, Blauparts, Genuine Audi Parts, and others.

I owned an aidi before and have purchased from a few of these companies

And finally, spend lots of time on this forum! As with most forums, try and do your due diligence and search before asking a "common" question. If you can't find the answer by searching, post the question and most on here are more than happy to share their wealth of knowledge. I for one have learned a ton from this forum, and even met up with several other local RS6 owners.

Welcome, and hopefully your RS6 experience is a rewarding as mine has been!

i hope so too. I have found a lot of good information on this site and save all important threads. Thanks for all the information and effort everybody!

[Jorisrs6]

DHall1 will be happy to come to your house and help you for food and beer.

Mike

Im in canada though. But maybe hes in for a trip to canada haha. Tell him ive got good food, moosehead beer and an appartment to sleep

[Jorisrs6]

I mean a 20K RS6 that has records of being properly maintained and already had big ticket items rectified. Then you would have a true representation of what this car actually costs. As it currently sits, you could exceed that depending on what you do or don't have to get another qualified person to work on, what you will or will not look to replace from a responsible maintenance effort, and what you must replace due to the current condition.

Yes. Maintenance is pretty ip to date. Just the trans went bad now. I still need to put all maintenance into excell to get a clear view instead of all the loose papers. Thanks for all your information sofar

[Jorisrs6]

Only 2 ways to pull this engine...out the bottom, or out the bottom...

I was looking for some more details lol.

[DHall1]

You're only sayin that because it's sunny and 73 degrees down here!

i think I'll drive an RS6 today


DHall1 will be happy to come to your house and help you for food and beer.

Mike

[Bigglezworth]

Only 2 ways to pull this engine...out the bottom, or out the bottom...

hiliarious.

[DHall1]

Uhhh, yes

a 70k RS6 with a new Audi trans just sold for 15500


Would a 20k rs6 have given me the guarantee of being reliable? No! Or did you mean another car for 20k

[Aronis]

You're only sayin that because it's sunny and 73 degrees down here!

i think I'll drive an RS6 today

I am still waiting for DHall1 to come and fix my parasitic current loss. My RS6 is sitting in the garage rotting. friggen thing..

Mike

[DHall1]

The line starts behind all my crusty ol junkers

18354

[lswing]

The line starts behind all my crusty ol junkers

18354

That's just filthy...and you need to sweep your floor...

Don't worry, the more times you pull the engine the better you get at it. An auto trans routinely lives 75-100k in these cars when not hammered on.

[DHall1]

All the magic happens out in the shop garage!

for the life of me....I wish I could figure out proper wheel fitment.

OEM 20x9s on the S8 with some nice meat under that arch. :-)

[Jorisrs6]

bought some 20x9 a8 wheels for the beast. Hopefully have my shop done before the new year so i can start working on the rs and ordering parts. How do i upload pics from my phone? It tells me the files are invalid?

[Jorisrs6]

:hahahehe::hahahehe:Update: just broke my hand. Now its gonna take even longer

[Jorisrs6]

18356Thats my crusty piece of cosworth lol

[GreggPDX]

:hahahehe::hahahehe:Update: just broke my hand. Now its gonna take even longer

Ouch, that sucks. Definitely need two fully functional hands to work on an RS6 :)

[Aronis]

Ouch, that sucks. Definitely need two fully functional and SMALL hands to work on an RS6 :)

And small hands helps a lot!



Mike

[Bigglezworth]

bought some 20x9 a8 wheels for the beast. Hopefully have my shop done before the new year so i can start working on the rs and ordering parts. How do i upload pics from my phone? It tells me the files are invalid?You may come to regret this choice in short order.

[Jorisrs6]

You may come to regret this choice in short order.

??? 20" wheels?

[DHall1]

20/9 A8 wheels

are not a known fitment on a C5 RS6.

But hey, what do I know

[Jorisrs6]

Offset is 45. Whats wrong with a spacer mr knowitall

[DHall1]

Which mr know it all are you making reference to?

the guy with 3 RS6s that does all his own work?

or the guy that's had 6 RS6s that does his own work?

just curious mr youngster Jedi RS6 master.

[DHall1]

Wtfdik?

....

[Bigglezworth]

??? 20" wheels?

Offset is 45. Whats wrong with a spacer mr knowitall
My comment is for a couple of reasons. The first being a 20" OEM spec A8 rim/tire for a D2 chassis is 255/35ZR20. The D3 chassis had an option for an even wider tire at 275/35ZR20. Then the current D4 models have option for 265/40ZR20.

OEM spec for a C5 RS6 chassis is either 255/40/18 on 18x8.8 (US) or 255/35/19 on 19x9 (Euro). These solutions are both 26" tall tires. Members have eeked out additional with up to 275mm on rims as wide as 9.5 with modification to nubs on uprights, an/or the inclusion of spacers with risk of rub on full turn or fenders rubbing during hard cornering. General concensus from many threads over the years is that a 265/35/19 is a much tire as you can put on this car and any rims wider than 10" won't work on the front. A staggered set-up would be different for this rule, but few are running staggered.

Now, enter non OEM spec A8 solution. The first thing you will notice is that they aren't the same overall diameter. A 255/35/30 tire is 27" in diameter which is a full 1" taller than the OEM cpec for the C5. This will guaranteed rub on wheel wells during turning and interfer with the knuckle on the upright. Further, you will mess up your speedometer/odometer. IF you want to try running an oversize 20" rim, you will need to reduce the profile of your tires to at a minimum 255/30/20 at which point you're nearing rubber band profile. Remember this car pushes 4400 lbs so you will immediately realize the harsh ride with this tiny sidewall. Also, you are at more risk of losing a rim to damage due to poor asphalt surfaces.

Anyway, that was my observation without knowing anything.

[DHall1]

Rubberband man always blazing a new road!


https://youtu.be/dXcFFNx0_g8

[Jorisrs6]

Which mr know it all are you making reference to?

the guy with 3 RS6s that does all his own work?

or the guy that's had 6 RS6s that does his own work?

just curious mr youngster Jedi RS6 master.
thats why i call you mr knowitall. You should be proud now

[Jorisrs6]

My comment is for a couple of reasons. The first being a 20" OEM spec A8 rim/tire for a D2 chassis is 255/35ZR20. The D3 chassis had an option for an even wider tire at 275/35ZR20. Then the current D4 models have option for 265/40ZR20.

OEM spec for a C5 RS6 chassis is either 255/40/18 on 18x8.8 (US) or 255/35/19 on 19x9 (Euro). These solutions are both 26" tall tires. Members have eeked out additional with up to 275mm on rims as wide as 9.5 with modification to nubs on uprights, an/or the inclusion of spacers with risk of rub on full turn or fenders rubbing during hard cornering. General concensus from many threads over the years is that a 265/35/19 is a much tire as you can put on this car and any rims wider than 10" won't work on the front. A staggered set-up would be different for this rule, but few are running staggered.

Now, enter non OEM spec A8 solution. The first thing you will notice is that they aren't the same overall diameter. A 255/35/30 tire is 27" in diameter which is a full 1" taller than the OEM cpec for the C5. This will guaranteed rub on wheel wells during turning and interfer with the knuckle on the upright. Further, you will mess up your speedometer/odometer. IF you want to try running an oversize 20" rim, you will need to reduce the profile of your tires to at a minimum 255/30/20 at which point you're nearing rubber band profile. Remember this car pushes 4400 lbs so you will immediately realize the harsh ride with this tiny sidewall. Also, you are at more risk of losing a rim to damage due to poor asphalt surfaces.

Anyway, that was my observation without knowing anything.
i have just the rims. I have a set of 255/30/20 hankooks coming. I like a stiff ride and 18s or 19s look a bit small imo. I shouldve said rims instead of wheels.

[DHall1]

You chime on here wanting all this information spoon fed when you can simply search.

Then have such thin skin to take offense of a simple comment of plain fact.

You should try QuattroWorld next.

Good luck with them. Ignore list +1

Gfy


20/9 A8 wheels

are not a known fitment on a C5 RS6.

But hey, what do I know

[ttboost]

My comment is for a couple of reasons. The first being a 20" OEM spec A8 rim/tire for a D2 chassis is 255/35ZR20. The D3 chassis had an option for an even wider tire at 275/35ZR20. Then the current D4 models have option for 265/40ZR20.

OEM spec for a C5 RS6 chassis is either 255/40/18 on 18x8.8 (US) or 255/35/19 on 19x9 (Euro). These solutions are both 26" tall tires. Members have eeked out additional with up to 275mm on rims as wide as 9.5 with modification to nubs on uprights, an/or the inclusion of spacers with risk of rub on full turn or fenders rubbing during hard cornering. General concensus from many threads over the years is that a 265/35/19 is a much tire as you can put on this car and any rims wider than 10" won't work on the front. A staggered set-up would be different for this rule, but few are running staggered.

Now, enter non OEM spec A8 solution. The first thing you will notice is that they aren't the same overall diameter. A 255/35/30 tire is 27" in diameter which is a full 1" taller than the OEM cpec for the C5. This will guaranteed rub on wheel wells during turning and interfer with the knuckle on the upright. Further, you will mess up your speedometer/odometer. IF you want to try running an oversize 20" rim, you will need to reduce the profile of your tires to at a minimum 255/30/20 at which point you're nearing rubber band profile. Remember this car pushes 4400 lbs so you will immediately realize the harsh ride with this tiny sidewall. Also, you are at more risk of losing a rim to damage due to poor asphalt surfaces.

Anyway, that was my observation without knowing anything.

And don't forget that the diff won't appreciate different size fronts and rears.