View Full Version : Headlight refurbishing or reconditioning...
Hello all,
Did any of you ever reconditioned or refurbished your headlights? Mine have fairly good fade on the top part of them, about inch and a half worth, the rest in almost perfect condition. I am worried on trying the DYI method, wet sanding down 3 to 4 times working from a heavier grade sand paper to a 2500 grit and then clear coating the headlights.
Anyone ever tried that, results, opinions etc...? Or is there a company that does a great job that anyone could recommend?
Thanks.
AMDRS6
May 2nd, 2017, 18:20
I did my allroad myself with the Mother's/Maguire's and it turned out great.
s8prtotype
May 2nd, 2017, 20:04
Look up a local detailer that can ceramic coat cars or use opticoat, just pay them to do it. Cheap enough and professionally done.
lswing
May 6th, 2017, 02:42
I did the 3M kit, about $40, and worked well. Now after 3 years they are yellowing/hazing again, so probably taking to a shop as mentioned above. I think they can put a better protective coat on than what comes with the diy packages.
Look up a local detailer that can ceramic coat cars or use opticoat, just pay them to do it. Cheap enough and professionally done.
That's sound like a good idea, i'm going to check on that.
I did the 3M kit, about $40, and worked well. Now after 3 years they are yellowing/hazing again, so probably taking to a shop as mentioned above. I think they can put a better protective coat on than what comes with the diy packages.
I tried that as well on another car and it came back just a year and a half later with the 3M kit.
Aronis
May 7th, 2017, 16:40
Just put new light bulbs in and you will be happy. But they are $300 each LOL. I had to swap a dead one a few years ago, so I did both. And the new bulbs were so much brighter! I did not realize that the quality of light had changed that much.
Mike
RS6 rick
May 11th, 2017, 01:25
All good advice but would like to suggest that you wax/reapply finish fairly frequently as it wears off fairly quickly, in other words don't wait 2 or 3 yrs. Be safe.
CBeau
May 11th, 2017, 03:56
In my experience the trick is you need to go deep enough / remove enough of the oxidized material (most lamps that era are lexan plastic I believe) so whats left is clear and not yellowed / tinged. Whether you use sand paper or magic potion / compound in the DIY kits. I doubt the DIY compound methods go deep enough. I know the real commercial 3M kit like I have is just a progression of their "Trizac" sand paper discs for 3" pneumatic polisher / sander and a couple polishing compounds and 3" foam pads. I think their sand paper starts at 500 grit or 600, then has a progression of 4-5 more up to about 3000, each just removing the scratches left by the last, so if you don't go deep enough with first cut you'll just spend all that time making smooth and glossy again and will still not be fully clear. The progression of 2 polishing compounds and foam pads to finish after sanding are just normal detailing things, nothing special, med cut with a coarser foam pad first then a finer compound with finer pad.... any compound / pad combo that will remove 2000-3000 grit scratches will do. And body shop would have all that stuff or some version of.
I have found that after they are gotten back to good, the lexan is still old and broken down / molecularly altered or what have you, and will re-oxidize quicker than when new.... but I've found that clear-bra / paint protection film material (8 mil clear top-coated urethane made by likes of Xpel, 3M, Suntek) on top will totally seal it off and it won't oxidize again and that material doesn't block, distort, refract etc. the light at all. Once you get the oxidation gone. You can apply the film bulk and get it on there good with edges haging off and then hand trim, look online see about applying the film its not hard for something small and flat like that light. Hand trim carefully with very sharp / brand new blade exacto type knife. You don't cut all the way thru the film, just score the top and then you can separate at some end and then it will come apart down the score line if scored deep enough. Works like a charm. I've done tons of light that way and works and stays clear.
RSSIK
May 11th, 2017, 04:42
my local body shop sands them down and clear coats them for me. they look brand new and last the longest from what I've seen. I own a used car dealership and I haven't seen a longer lasting or more effective way of doing it other than this.
All good advice but would like to suggest that you wax/reapply finish fairly frequently as it wears off fairly quickly, in other words don't wait 2 or 3 yrs. Be safe.
Ok thank you, that sounds like great advise especially after i do get them back to clear!
In my experience the trick is you need to go deep enough / remove enough of the oxidized material (most lamps that era are lexan plastic I believe) so whats left is clear and not yellowed / tinged. Whether you use sand paper or magic potion / compound in the DIY kits. I doubt the DIY compound methods go deep enough. I know the real commercial 3M kit like I have is just a progression of their "Trizac" sand paper discs for 3" pneumatic polisher / sander and a couple polishing compounds and 3" foam pads. I think their sand paper starts at 500 grit or 600, then has a progression of 4-5 more up to about 3000, each just removing the scratches left by the last, so if you don't go deep enough with first cut you'll just spend all that time making smooth and glossy again and will still not be fully clear. The progression of 2 polishing compounds and foam pads to finish after sanding are just normal detailing things, nothing special, med cut with a coarser foam pad first then a finer compound with finer pad.... any compound / pad combo that will remove 2000-3000 grit scratches will do. And body shop would have all that stuff or some version of.
I have found that after they are gotten back to good, the lexan is still old and broken down / molecularly altered or what have you, and will re-oxidize quicker than when new.... but I've found that clear-bra / paint protection film material (8 mil clear top-coated urethane made by likes of Xpel, 3M, Suntek) on top will totally seal it off and it won't oxidize again and that material doesn't block, distort, refract etc. the light at all. Once you get the oxidation gone. You can apply the film bulk and get it on there good with edges haging off and then hand trim, look online see about applying the film its not hard for something small and flat like that light. Hand trim carefully with very sharp / brand new blade exacto type knife. You don't cut all the way thru the film, just score the top and then you can separate at some end and then it will come apart down the score line if scored deep enough. Works like a charm. I've done tons of light that way and works and stays clear.
Ok wow thank you, i will look into all these products and go from there. Someone did tell me about clear coating the top of the headlights after the sanding down process and prior to sanding or clear coating, to clean the lenses with isopropol alcohol.
Just put new light bulbs in and you will be happy. But they are $300 each LOL. I had to swap a dead one a few years ago, so I did both. And the new bulbs were so much brighter! I did not realize that the quality of light had changed that much.Mike
Lol the visibility is actually great at night, the lights work very well since it is mostly the top of the lights that are affected. The car was always a AZ car until i purchased it so i am assuming that could have been sun wear right there! She is now always garaged so i'm thinking the wear on the plastic should diminish, at least let hope so!
my local body shop sands them down and clear coats them for me. they look brand new and last the longest from what I've seen. I own a used car dealership and I haven't seen a longer lasting or more effective way of doing it other than this.
Thank you i got the same advise recently as well!