The Merits of an RS6 Daily Driver

[OneBayShop]

I've arrived at the RS6 forum through a long and windy road to find the ultimate commuter. In 2013 my wife and I lived in Florida without children, and I drove a 2004 Cadillac CTS-V. I enjoyed my CTS-V tremendously (manual transmission, plenty of power, and worthly of spending the time to tinker on it when it needed maintenance).

Then we had our first child (I love my children and wouldn't trade them for anything, even the CTS-V). As a result, we moved closer to family in the Pacific Northwest, and the rear-wheel drive, fun, enjoyable, and exciting CTS-V got sold to a good home in Florida before we left.

To replace that fun, enjoyable, worthly-of-spending-time-maintaining CTS-V, I got a 1999 Infiniti I30 p-o-s (because if you can't replace it with something interesting, why waste money on a middling-boring, yet expensive "responsible" car). I've been driving the '99 p-o-s for the past three years (it hasn't gotten any funner). This winter the front-wheel drive, sqeaky brakes, leave-at-the-bottom-of-the-hill-because-it-can't-make-it-in-the-snow bad traction p-o-s that I use to drive my three year old to pre-school got the attention of my wife and she mentioned that I should replace it!!!!!!! YEAH.

Being an enjoyer of cars and avid peruser of craigslist, I started searching for the ultimate PacNW daily driver. Sequence of searches:

1. Jeep Cherokee, 4wd, Manual Transmission
2. Subaru WRX, Manual Transmission
3. Saab 9-2x, Manual Transmission
4. Audi S4, Manual Transmission
5. Early Audi Quattros, Manual Transmission

Then I ran across an ad for an RS6 in Seattle. I read up on the 450 HP, AWD, road eating monsters. It reminded me of the joy of the CTS-V sport-sedan (awesome power for occasional thrill with nice driving accoutrements) but with All-Wheel-Drive. Most importantly, worthy of spending time maintaining, because if you're gonna spend money on maintenance to keep it up as a daily driver you might as well have something that's worth spending money on.

Then I found the thread on this form for the manual transmission swap.......then I got infected with the RS6 bug.

Now I'm in the hunt for a good example of a RS6 that I can put ~20k miles on a year as a daily driver, and I have lots of questions for un-biased owners of the cars. For instance, and first:

Is taking an RS6 from 100k miles to 200k miles as a daily driver a reasonable expectation, or bat-%&#@-crazy?

[nubcake]

I wouldn't really go for 200k miles examples, but at 100-130k they still should have enough juice left.
Depending on available funds, it might make sense to get one with a bad trans, completely rebuild it with MT and all needed maintenance items.
When done "by the book" - RS will quickly drain all your money, but if you are mechanically savvy, understand how mechanicals function - and maybe even can do some of the work by yourself - there's A LOT of potential to "cut corners" without actually sacrificing any performance or reliability.

[Wide-66]

What you said is exactly what I have done. Im about 7k miles on my swap after completely going through a 100k mi car and dropping about 10k into it. Its awesome i drive about 120 mi per day. Nubs tune is whats up too :).

[Aronis]

You went from a 2004 Caddy CTS-v to a 1999 I30! YIKES!!!! Get some Elavil or Prozac! YIKES.

I feel your pain. I went from a '97 M3 luxury to a '20 A6 4.2 AWD for more room for our first kid and missed the M3 every second of every day I drove the A6. (A6 was nice but not M3 nice). So after trying for kid 2 for several years and no dice, got the RS6. Great car. Then kid number 2 and 3 came (what do infertility experts know anyway LOL) and I have the 3 kids and the RS6 still.

You have to understand what 'working on the rs6' means. You'll need equipment, engine lift, car lift, etc....... or a local mechanic you trust!

I don't know what working on the caddy requires but I can tell you I drove my M3 for 5 years in the worst snow with snow tires and never had an issue! I drove through snow in the middle of the night going to the ER more than once on unplowed roads with 8 to 10 inches of snow! You, like I, should have kept the Caddy LOL, M3. LOL

Mike

[OneBayShop]

I started with that the thought of finding a decent example of a stock RS6, driving it until the transmission blows (or I get sufficiently annoyed with an automatic), and then work through the manual transmission swap.

I've been warned about the transmissions and the OEM suspension, but what about the motors? Am I likely to run into internal component failures with the 4.2L? do they have a good reputation for reliability into higher mileage applications?

(I have a couple vintage classic project cars. My approach with them is that I don't care what the mileage is because they have good "bones" and if something fails, I replace with better. That approach applied to the CTS-V I used as a DD as well, not the '99 P-O-S. I plan on applying the same approach to an RS6 DD.)

[OneBayShop]

The downgrade from the '04 CTS-V to the I30 was an irrational reaction to
1. Moving to the west coast
2. New Kid
3. My wife's fear of snow
4. My desire to keep the wife happy

Even though it was an irrational decision, #4 makes it the right decision.

[Aronis]

What I am trying to wrap my head around is not only the drop to the i30 but dropping to a 6 or 7 year old i30 LOL..

Mike

[ben916]

Welcome OneBayShop!

I used my RS6 as a DD when I lived in California as there was room to boost.
Now living in Wa in the crowded area east of Seattle, driving the RS6 was frustrating as non-RS6 drivers in PNW rarely drive 5mph over the posted. Having the ability to go rapidly from 60 to triple digits in a blink, that was lost...

Suggested Free Guidance:
1. Find an indy shop that knows how to work on an RS, not a BMW shop that has worked on a RS in the past.
2. Find an Audi dealership that has a qualified RS tech.
3. Shop here for a good example -> look here is one with Euro Recaro seats->bakes (http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/32987-2003-Daytona-Grey-Audi-RS6)
4. It seems that the rule of RS6 thumb ownership is to have $5k handy.
5. The auto box with paddle shifting was adequate and fun, the 6 speed would have been ideal.
6. Have two sets of tires/rims (summer - Michelin Super Sports/winter - Blizzaks).
7. An RS typically needs to be flogged and hard (meaning like shift 1-2-3 to 6k) routinely.
8. 92/93 octane
9. Timing belt at a dealership is $1600/$2200 unless you can do it yourself and the frequency is 40k miles.
10. The lowest mile example is typically NOT the best one to purchase.

Fear of snow???? What's that?

http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx318/ben916_rs6/NWOL/2016%20Runs/Haller%20Pass%20Xmas%20tree%20run%2012-10-2016/CD6D4DE4-958E-4F35-A392-892CD8A33929_zps0f9l17rg.jpg (http://s767.photobucket.com/user/ben916_rs6/media/NWOL/2016%20Runs/Haller%20Pass%20Xmas%20tree%20run%2012-10-2016/CD6D4DE4-958E-4F35-A392-892CD8A33929_zps0f9l17rg.jpg.html)

[OneBayShop]

What I am trying to wrap my head around is not only the drop to the i30 but dropping to a 6 or 7 year old i30 LOL..

Mike

Yeah, I mention it because it is so painfully funny. It was 15 years old when I bought it for $1,700......and there's the kicker and the reasoning. I'll never pay $23k for a new Honda does-nothing-fun-but-people-say-it's-reliable-Accord. If I'm going for boring, I go super boring and CHEAP.

[P1054]

I wholeheartedly second nubcake's response. "By the book" is crazy expensive. Even doing stuff yourself can be expensive until you have worked on it a bit and get to understanding the car. I have now pulled an engine 4 times and reinstalled one twice (today/tomorrow will be the third, and the fourth was a part-out). The fourth engine pull took me about 6 hours, mostly by myself but with a little help from my brother when actually removing the engine/transmission.

The auto transmission is a known weak link, but I see nothing wrong with your idea to buy one, drive it till the trans goes or you get tired of it (my first one went, my second one lasted 1 month before I got tired of it). As for the shocks, there are plenty of folks on this forum who seem to have good feedback on Koni sport shocks with the factory springs for an inexpensive option, or KW's if you can spend a bit more. Engine wise, my impression is the internals are pretty bulletproof as long as you take car of them (standard maintenance). There have been a few reports of plug threads stripping and causing damage, but other than that I can't think of any common issues.

As for miles, I tend to drive my cars a fair amount, and I would agree too that at 100-130k there's a lot of life left, provided the car was maintained for those miles. Definitely make sure any one you buy has been properly maintained. If it hasn't, catching up on the maintenance could quickly double the cost of the car.

Timing belt can be done for much much less than list price if you do it yourself. The last one I did cost around $550 for parts, but there are even better options that I've come across since then. $550 spread over 40k miles isn't really all that bad.

If anything else goes wrong, just ask on the forum here. Chances are others have run into the same thing, and may have found a better way to fix it than just buy and replace parts.

And finally, if you do get one, you're right up I5 from me. If you end up going with a manual conversion, feel free to get in touch. There's a few of us around here with RS6s, and at least one other (GreggRS6) who have gone through or are going through the swap.

[Aronis]

Yeah, I mention it because it is so painfully funny. It was 15 years old when I bought it for $1,700......and there's the kicker and the reasoning. I'll never pay $23k for a new Honda does-nothing-fun-but-people-say-it's-reliable-Accord. If I'm going for boring, I go super boring and CHEAP.

I agree! Get an RS6 you will be very happy!

Mike

[OneBayShop]

Some excellent advice, which is why I joined the forum!


Welcome OneBayShop!

I used my RS6 as a DD when I lived in California as there was room to boost.
Now living in Wa in the crowded area east of Seattle, driving the RS6 was frustrating as non-RS6 drivers in PNW rarely drive 5mph over the posted. Having the ability to go rapidly from 60 to triple digits in a blink, that was lost...

Suggested Free Guidance:
1. Find an indy shop that knows how to work on an RS, not a BMW shop that has worked on a RS in the past.
2. Find an Audi dealership that has a qualified RS tech.
3. Shop here for a good example -> look here is one with Euro Recaro seats->bakes (http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/32987-2003-Daytona-Grey-Audi-RS6)
4. It seems that the rule of RS6 thumb ownership is to have $5k handy.
5. The auto box with paddle shifting was adequate and fun, the 6 speed would have been ideal.
6. Have two sets of tires/rims (summer - Michelin Super Sports/winter - Blizzaks).
7. An RS typically needs to be flogged and hard (meaning like shift 1-2-3 to 6k) routinely.
8. 92/93 octane
9. Timing belt at a dealership is $1600/$2200 unless you can do it yourself and the frequency is 40k miles.
10. The lowest mile example is typically NOT the best one to purchase.

Fear of snow???? What's that?



I should have been a little more charitable to my lovely wife. She loves snow, she just fears my driving a fun rear-wheel-drive car in it.

I live at 1,200 feet and have hill-climb opportunities on the way to and from work. My current DD gets bogged down on those climbs.......1-2-3 at 6k will be a much better experience.


I wholeheartedly second nubcake's response. "By the book" is crazy expensive. Even doing stuff yourself can be expensive until you have worked on it a bit and get to understanding the car. I have now pulled an engine 4 times and reinstalled one twice (today/tomorrow will be the third, and the fourth was a part-out). The fourth engine pull took me about 6 hours, mostly by myself but with a little help from my brother when actually removing the engine/transmission.

The auto transmission is a known weak link, but I see nothing wrong with your idea to buy one, drive it till the trans goes or you get tired of it (my first one went, my second one lasted 1 month before I got tired of it). As for the shocks, there are plenty of folks on this forum who seem to have good feedback on Koni sport shocks with the factory springs for an inexpensive option, or KW's if you can spend a bit more. Engine wise, my impression is the internals are pretty bulletproof as long as you take car of them (standard maintenance). There have been a few reports of plug threads stripping and causing damage, but other than that I can't think of any common issues.

As for miles, I tend to drive my cars a fair amount, and I would agree too that at 100-130k there's a lot of life left, provided the car was maintained for those miles. Definitely make sure any one you buy has been properly maintained. If it hasn't, catching up on the maintenance could quickly double the cost of the car.

Timing belt can be done for much much less than list price if you do it yourself. The last one I did cost around $550 for parts, but there are even better options that I've come across since then. $550 spread over 40k miles isn't really all that bad.

If anything else goes wrong, just ask on the forum here. Chances are others have run into the same thing, and may have found a better way to fix it than just buy and replace parts.

And finally, if you do get one, you're right up I5 from me. If you end up going with a manual conversion, feel free to get in touch. There's a few of us around here with RS6s, and at least one other (GreggRS6) who have gone through or are going through the swap.

Thanks for the insight into the maintenance, mileage, and suspension components. It's nice to know there's somebody close by if I need some advice.

Any thoughts on whether it's better to find an example that somebody has already performed the 6spd swap vs doing it yourself?

[P1054]

Regarding the 6 speed swap: it will almost certainly be cheaper to buy one already converted. That said, I prefer to have control over which parts are used, especially on a project like this. And the additional benefit that doesn't translate directly to $ up front but might down the road is that you'll know the car inside and out after the swap, and if you have an issue you'll almost certainly know exactly what's causing it and how to fix it. If you buy one already converted, you won't. So from my perspective, I wouldn't buy one already converted, but not everyone will feel the same way. For reference, my total cost for the first conversion, including a fairly lengthy list of other preventive/unrelated items performed during the swap, came to just under $14k. If you're interested, I can send you my spreadsheet with parts, part numbers, quantities, prices, sources, etc breaking it down. Sure I could have done it for less money, but I picked and chose every part installed, so I spent additional money on the transmission, conversion kit, front drive axles, stainless clutch line, etc. I also purchased a running driving 2001 A6 2.7T, took it apart, used the parts I needed (in the end I didn't use many of them but it was good to see how it all went together), and sold off what I could of the rest. My $14k price includes the A6 price of $3800, of which I've probably recouped about $3000 by selling parts.

[atikovi]

Any thoughts on whether it's better to find an example that somebody has already performed the 6spd swap vs doing it yourself?

If you like Mugello Blue I can help ya out on the latter as the transmission is acting up the last 2 years.

[Bigglezworth]

I wouldn't really go for 200k miles examples, but at 100-130k they still should have enough juice left.Nonsense. They can still lay down mid 11's with more miles than that.... :P

[OneBayShop]

Nonsense. They can still lay down mid 11's with more miles than that.... :P

That's what I'm talkin' 'bout Bigglezworth! GOOD BONES!

[OneBayShop]

Anybody have thoughts, knowledge or comments on this manual-converted example on eBay?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/2003-Audi-RS6-/182496078256?hash=item2a7d9d29b0%3Ag%3AAe4AAOSwWxN YzzSm&_trkparms=pageci%253A480dda2b-1c09-11e7-92f1-74dbd18066df%257Cparentrq%253A4b8d04b115b0a861e008 d84bffff12af%257Ciid%253A4

[mrdave]

Anybody have thoughts, knowledge or comments on this manual-converted example on eBay?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/2003-Audi-RS6-/182496078256?hash=item2a7d9d29b0%3Ag%3AAe4AAOSwWxN YzzSm&_trkparms=pageci%253A480dda2b-1c09-11e7-92f1-74dbd18066df%257Cparentrq%253A4b8d04b115b0a861e008 d84bffff12af%257Ciid%253A4

Must be Fastguy's car: http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/33163-Nice-gadget?p=286317&viewfull=1#post286317

[midwest1275]

Hello OneBayShop,

I see you are looking for an RS6. I have a Black/white interior RS6 w/ only 67k, clean title, transferable warranty, brand new tranny/TC and 15k of recent work (have all receipts). It's well sorted out and I'm considering putting it on the market soon. Message me for full details.

[Wide-66]

I am taking mine to Quattro de Mayo then I may be looking to sell. I agree unless you have a full shop and ample spare time buying a project with intent to swap will be a long road. Unless you get the car for next to nothing you will be far ahead buying a converted car.

[s8prtotype]

Just buy fastguy's car and be done with it, you're getting a deal with his. Lots of work done and a great value.

[OneBayShop]

Just buy fastguy's car and be done with it, you're getting a deal with his. Lots of work done and a great value.

It looks awesome. But at $28k I'd be buying a track car, not a commuter.

[OneBayShop]

Looks like there are plenty of nice examples available. Shouldn't be too hard to find the right fit for my use.

Second question for the board: Some of the cars available mention that the transmission was replaced/repaired while under warranty. Are the replacements improved over the originals? specifically, if I get a car that has had the transmission replaced with another auto, is it likely to have more issues after another 100k miles?

(I don't know the failure mode of the original transmission and I'm trying to better understand how to compare the available cars.)

[kruat]

Most have better luck with new/rebuilt auto boxes, but there still a weak link.

Good luck, I absolutely love my RS, but I dont daily mine anymore. They are great cars as long as your aware of what your getting into.

Theres a few of us in the SW WA area to lend a helping hand as well.

[OneBayShop]

Thanks kruat. I keep learning and looking. My initial skepticism of fastguy's car has worn off. The more I learn the more I value a vehicle that has been taken care of.


Most have better luck with new/rebuilt auto boxes, but there still a weak link.

Good luck, I absolutely love my RS, but I dont daily mine anymore. They are great cars as long as your aware of what your getting into.

Theres a few of us in the SW WA area to lend a helping hand as well.

[AMDRS6]

AMD is in Woodinville and was just in there today for a few little repairs. There were three modded RS6's including mine. One is fully built and should be up over 700 whp when it's all done. A lot of folks ship their cars in from all over the country so Jason can tune/built/set straight their cars. Mostly B5S4's, he just tuned a 2013 s6 (stage one is around 550/650!!!), some Porsches, lots of the 5 cyl turbo Audi's, lot's of B7RS4s, etc etc. Just saying if you need advice or want to do the swap he's your guy! Here is good too of course :)
I've had mine a little over two weeks and have already put almost 1500 miles on it. Up to Whistler and back and over to Ellensburg/Yakima a few times. I bought it with the swap already done but had considered buying a stock car and having AMD do the conversion. I'm a little intimidated by the maintenance schedule on these but it's not much different than the B5S4's I own and still love. Anyway, the PNW has a strong RS6 contingent!

https://www.fastaudi.com/

[AndrewNC]

You might also want to look into 6 spd stage 3 allroads. I know of at least one excellent example for sale (not mine lol) and much cheaper than a manual swapped rs6. I have owned both and I find the allroad much more practical with 2 kids. Trunk space is limited in the rs6 due to the battery placement. I actually found the rs6 automatic to be quite good compared to Audi's other ZF boxes. Then there is always the S6 avant to RS6 swap, which is the new "IT" project for the diehards.

[ZCD2.7T]

FWIW, for maybe $3-6K more, you could buy a C7 S6, 10 years newer, lower miles, faster, more reliable, less expensive to maintain...

No manual transmission, and ..."it's no RS6...", but I'd argue that it's much more suitable as a DD. Here's one example:

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/698715345/overview/


https://www.cstatic-images.com/supersized/8/6/8/f4/53930be8cf91490ecb101c2b273.jpg

[AndrewNC]

FWIW, for maybe $3-6K more, you could buy a C7 S6, 10 years newer, lower miles, faster, more reliable, less expensive to maintain...

No manual transmission, and ..."it's no RS6...", but I'd argue that it's much more suitable as a DD. Here's one example:

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/698715345/overview/




100% agree. For 30k you can get into a D4 4.0t A8 or C7 S6.

[GreggPDX]

AMD is in Woodinville and was just in there today for a few little repairs. There were three modded RS6's including mine. One is fully built and should be up over 700 whp when it's all done. A lot of folks ship their cars in from all over the country so Jason can tune/built/set straight their cars. Mostly B5S4's, he just tuned a 2013 s6 (stage one is around 550/650!!!), some Porsches, lots of the 5 cyl turbo Audi's, lot's of B7RS4s, etc etc. Just saying if you need advice or want to do the swap he's your guy! Here is good too of course :)
I've had mine a little over two weeks and have already put almost 1500 miles on it. Up to Whistler and back and over to Ellensburg/Yakima a few times. I bought it with the swap already done but had considered buying a stock car and having AMD do the conversion. I'm a little intimidated by the maintenance schedule on these but it's not much different than the B5S4's I own and still love. Anyway, the PNW has a strong RS6 contingent!

https://www.fastaudi.com/

Did you get any more details on the 700whp car? I spoke with Jason a while back, and he mentioned they were working on a big turbo option for swapped cars. I wonder if this one has that kit.

[OneBayShop]

I was behind a C7 S6 at a stop light yesterday. Almost ran up and asked the driver how they liked it. Then I saw an Allroad in the parking lot and was debating staking it out to ask the owner if they enjoyed driving it. From aesthetics, I'd go Allroad before C7 S6, and RS6 above them all. I haven't hunted down any manual allroads yet, but may try to test drive one.

[AMDRS6]

It is that kit and it is coming a long nicely, finally. It looks great and the wire harness is all customized. It's the Tial 880s turbos that will go in there.

[AMDRS6]

FWIW, for maybe $3-6K more, you could buy a C7 S6, 10 years newer, lower miles, faster, more reliable, less expensive to maintain...

No manual transmission, and ..."it's no RS6...", but I'd argue that it's much more suitable as a DD. Here's one example:

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/698715345/overview/

AMD stage one Flash for these is over 500whp and 600wtq. I was at the shop the other day when he was dynoing one. Insane numbers on stock exhaust and stock turbos. Super nice car too. I might have to get into one in a year or so.


https://www.cstatic-images.com/supersized/8/6/8/f4/53930be8cf91490ecb101c2b273.jpg

AMD stage one Flash for these is over 500whp and 600wtq. I was at the shop the other day when he was dynoing one. Insane numbers on stock exhaust and stock turbos. Super nice car too. I might have to get into one in a year or so.

[OneBayShop]

AMD is in Woodinville and was just in there today for a few little repairs. There were three modded RS6's including mine. One is fully built and should be up over 700 whp when it's all done. A lot of folks ship their cars in from all over the country so Jason can tune/built/set straight their cars. Mostly B5S4's, he just tuned a 2013 s6 (stage one is around 550/650!!!), some Porsches, lots of the 5 cyl turbo Audi's, lot's of B7RS4s, etc etc. Just saying if you need advice or want to do the swap he's your guy! Here is good too of course :)
I've had mine a little over two weeks and have already put almost 1500 miles on it. Up to Whistler and back and over to Ellensburg/Yakima a few times. I bought it with the swap already done but had considered buying a stock car and having AMD do the conversion. I'm a little intimidated by the maintenance schedule on these but it's not much different than the B5S4's I own and still love. Anyway, the PNW has a strong RS6 contingent!

https://www.fastaudi.com/

Hey AMDRS6, do you daily driver your manual converted RS6, or is it a weekend car?

I'm glad there is a good contingent of RS6 folks in the PNW.

[AMDRS6]

I just got it less than three weeks ago and have put almost 2k miles on it. I don't plan on using it as a DD, just a freeway car when I head to eastern WA for work and car meets. I won't take it into Seattle since it has a very touchy stage 4 clutch. (I live in Issaquah)

[rah]

Welcome, get the RS6 and you will be happy, those cars are amazing. Unlike your plans, i do not daily drive mine, but i do drive it often and get on it for sure, they need it and love it really. I do not see where daily driving those would be a problem, and as long as you keep your maintenance up to date, especially with the timing belt, you will be just fine. Hope to see you on this board with one soon!

[rs6BC]

Selling my RS6. I just need a truck

[nistah]

OP I daily drive my RS6 it's been an amazing experience doing so thus far. As Rah mentioned upthread: keep maintenance up to date, timing belt every 35K and you will be just fine.

Extended service contract has paid for minor repair items: alternator, valve covers & control arms which are to be expected given the age of the RS6.

Very rewarding experience and I'd be hard pressed to replace the RS6 with any another sub $40K late model sport sedan. The 2013 S6's are looking nice though....

[OneBayShop]

OP I daily drive my RS6 it's been an amazing experience doing so thus far. As Rah mentioned upthread: keep maintenance up to date, timing belt every 35K and you will be just fine.

Extended service contract has paid for minor repair items: alternator, valve covers & control arms which are to be expected given the age of the RS6.

Very rewarding experience and I'd be hard pressed to replace the RS6 with any another sub $40K late model sport sedan. The 2013 S6's are looking nice though....

Glad to hear there is someone out there having a good experience with them as a DD. If you don't mind me asking, how many miles do you put on it in a year, and what's the current total mileage on yours?

[G2]

"un-biased" RS6 Owner. Well that rules me out!

My input:

Based on experience have and see no concerns with the engine making the 100-200K mile leap. Mileage does not equal good, low mileage that is. I just boroscoped a 145K example while resealing the sump oil pan. I also 'scoped the cylinders prior to engine installation. It was excellent, better than the dead 135K lump I pulled out. Have looked inside 3 engines so far (including my own).

Maintenance is key. 5K oil changes seems ideal for general commuting. Timing belt service can be deferred some but see issues with the pulleys and water pumps.

From what I've also seen, extended DD'ing will have a net loss on keeping up on the car' needs. It can be made up for with chunks of down time. DIY'ers will utilize their weekends for RS nurturing and maintenance/upgrade immersion. Major issues require engine removal. That's nearly anything not on the front of the motor. Some will suffer thru it and bend/breake stuff out of the way to make it work.

The Autobox will survive if heavily serviced. Have done enough of them, including trans on their deathbed (noises, slippage, clunks). Have yet to see one that wasn't low on oil or needed service.

My disposition towards the trans was similar. How could I live with such an amazing car and NOT shift gears. I have 2 other sporty MT cars, and after some miles realized the slushbox was pretty good. Need a taller OD however. A good TCU tune is mandatory. Seems MTM rules the roost, I like it the best of the handful of tuned RS's I've driven. I'm hoping one of the newer auto boxes would fit....

Might have been a joke regarding the 1-2-3 thrashing. I see no reason to beat on the car to keep it healthy. My old Alfa Romeo, yes- absolutely. Every 3 weeks or it wasn't happy. Blow the junk out. Great mill, way over square revver with good torque (how they did that is beyond me w/o VVT, etc).

Think Ferrari (FF) except in a German Sedan...

RS6 is not all that great in the snow, even with good tires. Mine oversteers (I like it, wife doesn't). If lowered there's no clearance for more than 3" of accumulation. Any more and it'll tear up the $650 splash shield/undertray/belly pan. The car is a hoot and will accelerate so fast it'll scare you knowing how hard it is to turn or slow down. 25 cent joy ride of death. Is there any other way? ;) Maybe one more..

Jeep Cherokee? A near deathtrap and useless 4x4 system. Good for digging out after in the ditch. When it snows my Jeep sits. Stick with AWD.

Honda? Egads. Our Ridgeline was a POS but was great/fun in the snow. Bad trannys, had to pull the engine for a failed rear main seal at 77K. Terrible MPG. Crazy good handling with summer wheels.

Get the RS6, enjoy, suffer, learn, wrangle one of the finest machines ever put on the road (that no one knows about). I've driven the RS4, R8, S5 V8 (not since the 590hp upgrade however), near countless RS6's. Can't get more engineering or performance or the money. But it'll still cost. Absolutely love this car and hope to have mine "forever".

So much for the self talk to keep this short, cheers to all! Back to work on my RS6 now:mech:

[OneBayShop]

"un-biased" RS6 Owner. Well that rules me out!

My input:

Based on experience have and see no concerns with the engine making the 100-200K mile leap. Mileage does not equal good, low mileage that is. I just boroscoped a 145K example while resealing the sump oil pan. I also 'scoped the cylinders prior to engine installation. It was excellent, better than the dead 135K lump I pulled out. Have looked inside 3 engines so far (including my own).

Maintenance is key. 5K oil changes seems ideal for general commuting. Timing belt service can be deferred some but see issues with the pulleys and water pumps.

From what I've also seen, extended DD'ing will have a net loss on keeping up on the car' needs. It can be made up for with chunks of down time. DIY'ers will utilize their weekends for RS nurturing and maintenance/upgrade immersion. Major issues require engine removal. That's nearly anything not on the front of the motor. Some will suffer thru it and bend/breake stuff out of the way to make it work.

The Autobox will survive if heavily serviced. Have done enough of them, including trans on their deathbed (noises, slippage, clunks). Have yet to see one that wasn't low on oil or needed service.

My disposition towards the trans was similar. How could I live with such an amazing car and NOT shift gears. I have 2 other sporty MT cars, and after some miles realized the slushbox was pretty good. Need a taller OD however. A good TCU tune is mandatory. Seems MTM rules the roost, I like it the best of the handful of tuned RS's I've driven. I'm hoping one of the newer auto boxes would fit....

Might have been a joke regarding the 1-2-3 thrashing. I see no reason to beat on the car to keep it healthy. My old Alfa Romeo, yes- absolutely. Every 3 weeks or it wasn't happy. Blow the junk out. Great mill, way over square revver with good torque (how they did that is beyond me w/o VVT, etc).

Think Ferrari (FF) except in a German Sedan...

RS6 is not all that great in the snow, even with good tires. Mine oversteers (I like it, wife doesn't). If lowered there's no clearance for more than 3" of accumulation. Any more and it'll tear up the $650 splash shield/undertray/belly pan. The car is a hoot and will accelerate so fast it'll scare you knowing how hard it is to turn or slow down. 25 cent joy ride of death. Is there any other way? ;) Maybe one more..

Jeep Cherokee? A near deathtrap and useless 4x4 system. Good for digging out after in the ditch. When it snows my Jeep sits. Stick with AWD.

Honda? Egads. Our Ridgeline was a POS but was great/fun in the snow. Bad trannys, had to pull the engine for a failed rear main seal at 77K. Terrible MPG. Crazy good handling with summer wheels.

Get the RS6, enjoy, suffer, learn, wrangle one of the finest machines ever put on the road (that no one knows about). I've driven the RS4, R8, S5 V8 (not since the 590hp upgrade however), near countless RS6's. Can't get more engineering or performance or the money. But it'll still cost. Absolutely love this car and hope to have mine "forever".

So much for the self talk to keep this short, cheers to all! Back to work on my RS6 now:mech:

Thanks for the advice G2. Another RS6 owner in the PAC NW! Seems like these suckers love hills and mountains, so makes sense that they've found permanent homes in Colorado and the Northwest.

[Bigglezworth]

RS6 is not all that great in the snow, even with good tires.I very much disagree with this statement. This car is untouchable in the snow. Run top of the line Hakka's and nothing including SUV's, 4x4's, and other AWD cars can plow the streets and drive through slush and snow like this ride. It's so much fun and such a total control feeling, that I frequently turn the traction control off to inject some bonkers fun. It's specifically the reason I continue to drive one as I'm subject to winter conditions at any point of time for a 6 month period each year.

[G2]

I very much disagree with this statement. This car is untouchable in the snow. Run top of the line Hakka's and nothing including SUV's, 4x4's, and other AWD cars can plow the streets and drive through slush and snow like this ride. It's so much fun and such a total control feeling, that I frequently turn the traction control off to inject some bonkers fun. It's specifically the reason I continue to drive one as I'm subject to winter conditions at any point of time for a 6 month period each year.

Glad you are happy with yours.

T'wasn't a finite statement by any means: It's also a matter of perspective-- box checked -- numerous Audi's/vehicles. The RS is especially sensitive to the tires one runs. And what suspension one has. Which brake pads even.

In terms of older Audi's in the snow, the RS6 is not nearly as sure footed as lesser models. It's okay...mine is okay, and is geared towards summer performance. The power, heft and wide tires work against it. It can be fun, I agree, and do the same thing in the white fluffy stuff. Agree that with 2600lbs on the front axle is does well as a slush plow also...

Damn ABS, however. Need to code that out with TCS off...(Anyone?). Maybe I will wire in a kill relay to the pump-- see how many DTC's and dash lights that sets off!

With that said, it's one of the few cars of it's breed that can pull double duty: Snow plow and autobahn burner second to few. Truly the all-season super sedan.

[Aronis]

14 years, 14 winters, upstate New York (3 in very upstate NY) as my primary GoTo car for snow storms and daily drive. I have used 255's snows since my first year as the narrower 235's were not available in December when I got the car.

In Malone I was on call 20 out of 30 nights and had to drive to the hospital at 2 am many times with 8 to 10 inches of snow on the roads. I never had a problem with my RS6. I did see many SUV's off the road in the same setting. It's partly the car, partly the tires and mostly the driver.

I did the same for 5 years in NH and then Malone with a M3 with rear wheel drive and snow tires. That was my only car for those years, prior to that a 325is. The GottaHaveAnSUV for the snow crowd is unfortunately just scared of the snow! AWD is an advantage for sure, but not essential if you have winter driving skills. I cut my teeth driving a '76 Cutlass S in BOSTON in the snow LOL. Rear wheel drive, all season 1976 tires, no ABS, no Traction control, etc.

The AWD of the Audi's is great, but even an AWD car can be driven poorly and end off upside down off the road.

But to say "the RS6 is not that good in the snow" is more a measure of the driver than of the car!

By the way, I drive my M2 in the snow as well. Maybe I am just lucky? But when the going gets rough, I can't call-in due to 'snow.'

Mike

[ben916]

I very much disagree with this statement. This car is untouchable in the snow. Run top of the line Hakka's and nothing including SUV's, 4x4's, and other AWD cars can plow the streets and drive through slush and snow like this ride. It's so much fun and such a total control feeling, that I frequently turn the traction control off to inject some bonkers fun. It's specifically the reason I continue to drive one as I'm subject to winter conditions at any point of time for a 6 month period each year.

I had Blizzaks and in the ever-changing PNW weather (Rain, Rain, and more Rain, snow, slushy, etc not quite like "Cowtown") 905355 sure felt planted regardless of weather conditions.
Somewhere around here, Randy @MaxRS6 has his ice donuts behind Walmart...

Summer tires = Michelin Pilot Super Sports would be my preference. Had $hitbird Hankooks and wouldn't recommend them ever...

[eurovintage]

A tuned Audi (or any high powered car) is more sensitive in the snow versus its untuned siblings.
Having several programs with one low power (low boost) will help.

[OneBayShop]

My P-O-S 1999 Infinit I30 left me stranded with a dead battery twice yesterday (one of the consequences of letting small children play in the car without supervision). My patience with it is ending.

Ended up replacing the battery: cost of $102. By my calculation that is 6% to 10% the value of the vehicle (cost-to-equity ratio). On a comparable cost-to-equity ratio of a $1,500 timing belt replacement for a good condition RS6.

It'd rather put $1,500 into an RS6 than $102 into my P-O-S.

[Fast Co]

> It'd rather put $1,500 into an RS6 than $102 into my P-O-S.

That's the proper frame of mind.

My daily driver is a C5 S6 because I don't want to put too much unnecessary wear & tear on the RS6A. Every now and then I get the itch to drive the RS, and I'm always glad I did! A stock S6 is a very capable and fun car (and might be more practical for someone with young kids) but as long as you're prepared to keep up with maintenance I don't see any reason *not* to drive an RS6.

[G2]

$1500 is just the entry fee, but well worth it.

There's no question I'd choose the RS6 as a DD and basically have for years. However I'd tone down my KW3's a couple notches. By the 4th day i'm about done for the week (on 19's). Those shocks are TRICKY to sort out. But with the new R-compounds should be a perfect aggressive summer setup. Can't wait to track the 2 tonner! Race guy says a few laps of PIR will cook the brakes. May step up to legit race pads to try to prove him wrong...

Just put Koni's on with stock springs on for a regional car. That turned out really well, but surprisingly firm. Too firm says my race guy, whom does my alignments. Car is a total sleeper with Hotchkiss bars and OE wheels- it handles and is VERY planted. Shocks are adj. of course, but it's a one time setup ( I should do a post on it). Reminds me of a near new B6S4 Avant i bought- really dialed in damping and tight handling. Just needed more tire. Like the RS6...

Awhile back had sent Bilsteins to another RS6'er, sport springs, with Hotchkiss sways (and a bunch of other stuff). Bilstein at this point is my first choice. Best static shock out there me thinks. Disclosure, I've only driven and ridden in a PSS9 car. Impressive ride quality to say the least. Have put on many Bilstein shocks on other vehicles over the years, however.

Basically you need/want soft shocks in the winter to improve traction. Another nod to the dynamics of Bilstein' shock design. Or a working DRC system, I suppose.

Of course the car will do well enough in the snow even with good A/S tires. Ain't a great handler but still fun as heck and plenty of power to pull out of any "uh oh" situations-- normally power induced ones.

Seems a great time to buy these cars. One of my friends/clients just picked up that REALLY cheap Mugello Blue one in Seattle. Will have it on the lift very soon.

Gotta keep wrenching on mine...letting the t-belt tensioning process "marinate" over nite before syncing the cam/crank. Should help head up typical belt stretch and timing retardation that eventually occurs. Better belt helps too.

Back to work now.

[G2]

14 years, 14 winters, upstate New York (3 in very upstate NY) as my primary GoTo car for snow storms and daily drive. I have used 255's snows since my first year as the narrower 235's were not available in December when I got the car.

In Malone I was on call 20 out of 30 nights and had to drive to the hospital at 2 am many times with 8 to 10 inches of snow on the roads. I never had a problem with my RS6. I did see many SUV's off the road in the same setting. It's partly the car, partly the tires and mostly the driver.

I did the same for 5 years in NH and then Malone with a M3 with rear wheel drive and snow tires. That was my only car for those years, prior to that a 325is. The GottaHaveAnSUV for the snow crowd is unfortunately just scared of the snow! AWD is an advantage for sure, but not essential if you have winter driving skills. I cut my teeth driving a '76 Cutlass S in BOSTON in the snow LOL. Rear wheel drive, all season 1976 tires, no ABS, no Traction control, etc.

The AWD of the Audi's is great, but even an AWD car can be driven poorly and end off upside down off the road.

But to say "the RS6 is not that good in the snow" is more a measure of the driver than of the car!

By the way, I drive my M2 in the snow as well. Maybe I am just lucky? But when the going gets rough, I can't call-in due to 'snow.'

Mike

Great experience Mike....have some similar experiences, in often less than ideal cars. Even power drifted my 35' diesel coach for fun-- on a 2 lane road, in the Wisconsin ice. Numerous track days, auto-crosses, nutty back roads driving in fast cars, driving in icy mountains with worn out summer tires, list goes on in all sorts of vehicles. Including a '76 Ford LTD landyacht- but no it wasn't 1976.

Even on 2 wheels. Was a CAT2 and Pro class Norba racer, won lots of stuff, even a scholarship to Olympic Training Center in CO. Learned the ways of the Corners quite well. Power on over steer in the PNW wet with 200 racers on 23mm tires all trying to win with some big teams. (beat them all, btw).

Pretty good driver here :incar: Glad you are too, cheers.

[AMDRS6]

I was going to look at the blue one in Seattle but settled for the "done" car.

As for suspension mine came with PSS9's which I almost got rid of since my other two have Ohlins (and there is a rebuilt set available for the RS6 at my local shop) and they are far superior but a lot of $$$ to buy and rebuild every year or so. I have since gotten used to the PSS9's and really like them, for now. In three weeks of owning I've put on around 2500 miles of all freeway miles and it's an absolute blast to drive. Cruises right at 85 with the TDI 6th gear and don't really need to downshift for passing unless I want instant torque.

[ZCD2.7T]

...Can't wait to track the 2 tonner! Race guy says a few laps of PIR will cook the brakes. May step up to legit race pads to try to prove him wrong...

Brakes are one issue, the other is heat-soak and "limp mode", which is very likely unless you have hugely upgraded cooling...

Still, it's fun for a few laps...

[G2]

Brakes are one issue, the other is heat-soak and "limp mode", which is very likely unless you have hugely upgraded cooling...

Still, it's fun for a few laps...

Appreciate the input and tip. Personal experience? Sounds like i better install this H20 kit after all. Perfect timing with the t-belt service WIP.

Also have IC fans and logic controllers to wire in. Mainly for low speed anti-heat soak in town or pre-cooling if running at the drag strip.

Hopefully leaving in the Aux rads. will also pay off...

[ZCD2.7T]

Appreciate the input and tip. Personal experience? Sounds like i better install this H20 kit after all. Perfect timing with the t-belt service...

First-hand experience, yes. Unless you baby it, limp mode is likely. Here's hoping that your mods will keep it at bay a bit longer.

Of course, everyone says "I'm just out there for fun - I'm not gonna run flat-out", but then the red mist descends, and before you know it, you're driving a 4200-lb car with about 150-hp...:doh:

[lswing]

Brakes are one issue, the other is heat-soak and "limp mode", which is very likely unless you have hugely upgraded cooling...

Still, it's fun for a few laps...

Of the 100's of posts regarding track days never heard of this. Your car had issues. Driven the piss out of my car in hot weather and never experienced this. Brakes, now that's the biggest issue I hear about.

[fukinavit]

Appreciate the input and tip. Personal experience? Sounds like i better install this H20 kit after all. Perfect timing with the t-belt service WIP.

Also have IC fans and logic controllers to wire in. Mainly for low speed anti-heat soak in town or pre-cooling if running at the drag strip.

Hopefully leaving in the Aux rads. will also pay off...

All the aux rads do is add to heatsoak, transfers heat to the charge air.

[ZCD2.7T]

Of the 100's of posts regarding track days never heard of this. Your car had issues. Driven the piss out of my car in hot weather and never experienced this. Brakes, now that's the biggest issue I hear about.

Yep, and what you've heard/read is certainly more believable that what I've personally experienced... /sarcasm

Hot weather road driving is NOTHING compared to driving hard on a racetrack.

[lswing]

Yep, and what you've heard/read is certainly more believable that what I've personally experienced... /sarcasm

Hot weather road driving is NOTHING compared to driving hard on a racetrack.

Did you at least open the hood during any stoppage? Removal of belly pan too. Maybe running extra hot due to hot/lean tune? Still, heat soak gets reported, but full limp mode no. Maybe if above 90 degrees or 100 out...

[G2]

All the aux rads do is add to heatsoak, transfers heat to the charge air.

Unfortunately this car has so many areas that cause heatsoak. Wouldn't want to give up the reserve engine cooling. At least the aux rads are BEHIND the IC's.

[G2]

From all the cooling problems I've seen and fixed, the ECT will easily run hot and most people don't know it. Then it's on the edge of Limp Mode to begin with.

However, mine experienced LM (new acronym?) one hot summer day after getting on the free. Cursed town driving. And a very long stop light. Car was gutless. After enough air (less hot) was ingested to help reduce IAT's it came back on line strong.

Plumbing in a water inj. kit as we speak. If time allows will get the extra fans mounted also.

[ZCD2.7T]

Did you at least open the hood during any stoppage? Removal of belly pan too. Maybe running extra hot due to hot/lean tune? Still, heat soak gets reported, but full limp mode no. Maybe if above 90 degrees or 100 out...

Of course, cool-down laps around the pit area, plus hood opened and engine running to keep the coolant circulating until temps drop some. Nothing removed from the car, no tune - all stock. Temps in the 60s. If you're driving hard, heat soak and then limp mode are very likely.

[fukinavit]

Unfortunately this car has so many areas that cause heatsoak. Wouldn't want to give up the reserve engine cooling. At least the aux rads are BEHIND the IC's.

Unfortunately for the size of the aux rads they achieve nothing, and regardless of position they conduct heat into the intercooler due to the proximity. Lots of other areas for heatsoak for sure but those aux rads do not help.

[MaxRS6]

Crazy had some track experience...0

I experienced some heat soak (running Texas World Speedway in June will do it). However; rarely had full on limp mode unless something was wrong. The main issue as we all know is the spineless transmission.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KwRjVQ6zX5E" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>

[MaxRS6]

Crazy at TWS...

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pTWLPa7U2dE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>

[iconcls]

...full on limp mode unless something was wrong.


I routinely went into full limp mode about ~15 minutes into a run session (midwest road circuits) in my bone stock RS 6, and, no, nothing was wrong with the car.

[MaxRS6]

^We have different car behavior- Boost gauges verified I wasn't limping even after 20-25 minute sessions. I was running APR tune normally on 93 gas, mostly stock intercoolers (went to Wagners when the OEM coolers went south). A few times ran on 100 oct just for the fun of it. I probably just never pushed it hard enuff...;0

Running around CoTA- it was not the "hot" season. However; plenty of runs at WOT and never experienced full on limp mode during 3 separate track weekends.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/dT5YV93kv5E" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>

[iconcls]

^We have different car behavior

Nah, evidently, I was just quicker.

[MaxRS6]

^hahahaha...;0

is that what she said...;0 j/k

[OneBayShop]

I'm resurrecting this old thread to ask a follow up question: gas mileage.

....I got my 1962 Chevy C10 back on the road after a rebuild of it's 1965 401 Buick Nailhead and did a video of my commute.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Rlv0FGPFzHw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I have a ~40 minute commute that is ~35 miles and has three hills to climb. Am I going to get under 15 mpg in an RS6 if I use it as a DD?

[mrdave]

Cruising on the highway I can easily get low to mid 20's mpg. Around town and while hooning I get considerably less.

[atikovi]

4.2 liters is not a big engine. Unless you get on the gas very often it shouldn't be too bad. I have an AWD Saturn Vue with 3.5L that weighs almost as much and I can get nearly 30.

[AMDRS6]

I drive from Issaquah to Ellensburg (sometimes Yakima) weekly and that's a few hills to say the least. All at 80-90 mph. My dummie gauge is at 18mpg. If you are light throttle you should do better than me. :)

[ben916]

I have a ~40 minute commute that is ~35 miles and has three hills to climb. Am I going to get under 15 mpg in an RS6 if I use it as a DD?

OK, you "can" get 24.5mpg with an RS6 on the highway. Absolutely no boost and nothing over 60mph (which equals no fun).
I averaged 24.5mpg from Redding, CA to Portland, OR along I-5 after getting a ticket just outside of Susanville, CA where he clocked me at 81 (I was slowing down from 100+), so I was butthurt and decided to go super slow.

The other question to ask is - why bother worrying about mpg?!?!? Its miles of smiles!

[AMDRS6]

I agree, shouldn't own an RS6 if you're worried about gas mileage.

[SteveKen]

I agree, shouldn't own an RS6 if you're worried about gas mileage.

Or brakes and rotors and timing belt intervals...

[AMDRS6]

Oh yeah those too! ��

[Bigglezworth]

Am I going to get under 15 mpg in an RS6 if I use it as a DD? More than likely yes.... You simply can't own a car like this without getting on it (often). No matter how much you want to trickle along with the crowd, dollars to donuts you will want to do something more.... It's been said a number of times - you don't own an RS6 because you are concerned about gas mileage. It's not a "large" displacement engine no, but it can quickly violate your wallet by passing almost 200% more fuel through the engine in the same amount of time under full throttle and I know of NO one that owns one of these that isn't doing full throttle a number of times after each fill-up. :)

[Fast Co]

Silly me, I figured that an RS6 with 6 speed would loaf on the highway and get great mileage (which is sort of true) but the statements above are correct. It sure is difficult to stay off the throttle. Turns out I get roughly the same mileage in the RS6 as I do in the ~stock S6 automatic in normal driving, mid-high teens in the city and low to mid 20s on the highway. Since I live in a city my daily driver is the S6 so as not to put the wear & tear on the RS. When I have the opportunity to go for a *drive*, I choose the RS6. Last Saturday our local chapter of the Audi Club did a "country drive" event. We stayed on two lane country roads, no highway or interstate. Our group also included a couple of modded B5 S4s, a B7 RS4 and a few newer model Audis. We drove "briskly" not balls out, had a great time. I burned a half a tank of gas, it was worth every penny.

[CBeau]

If you're worried about fuel mileage $$ you should (unless you're just a total tree hugger type... not that there is anything wrong with that) by association be worried about maintenance $$$$ = don't buy a RS6 for DD. If you weren't one of the upper crust well heeled original owners in '03 who paid close to $100k and had cushy warranty with loaner car etc. for the 3-4 years they owned the car, until the next newest best thing came along, you better be a engineer level type car lover to own one of these cars, which includes a deep appreciation for what it is - which is inextricably strapped to going thru the pain (and joy) of keeping it alive. I'm no total RS6 expert on here like many others, but I've owned one for a pretty long while and have and had many many cars of all types and that is my 2 cents. Love it or leave it alone.