Crank center bolt

[AndyRS6]

Hi to all.
I'm finishing TB and all seals, have question on crank bolt tightening process, I know torque 200 + 180° with 4 foot or longer extension pipe, but do I need extra tool to lock crank or locking pin (T3242) will hold?
Thanks

[mdegracia]

Lock pin should be enough. That sprocket is keyed, so 200 plus 180 deg sound excessive.

[mrdave]

Crank lock pin is fine, that's what it's meant for.

[AndyRS6]

It's 200 plus 180 per manual. What's your take? Should I put oil on the thread and washer?

[mrdave]

It's 200 plus 180 per manual. What's your take? Should I put oil on the thread and washer?

No, it specifically says to not lube the bolt. Edit, directly from manual:

29 - Bolt
- 200 Nm plus an additional 1/2 turn 180°
- Replace
- Do not add lubricant
- Use Crankshaft Holder -3242- for loosening and tightening
- Install Crankshaft Holder -3242- → Anchor

[AndyRS6]

Ok, thanks

[AndyRS6]

Everything went well, bolt is at torque 200 plus 180 as peranual. Brake bar plus 5 ft extension got the job done.
17411
If anyone need turbo covers, I got some at home depot plumbing department, perfect fit. :hahahehe:

[fukinavit]

Crank lock pin is fine, that's what it's meant for.

Actually its not meant for that nor do I recommend using it for that. Its purely mean to hold the crank in position while doing the t belt. There is tool designed to bolt to the end of the crank where the dampner mounts which holds the crank specifically for this task.its easy to make, I made my own from flatbar when I did mine. Thats a lot of force on that pin when tightening that bolt. Lots of people do it tho.

[Bigglezworth]

Crank bolt removal 101......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7G-adEVjfWI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_6SFBg7_dg

[AndyRS6]

Update:Finally started the car. Got rough idling and check engine light. Fixed check engine-problem with MAF sensor, ground wire was separated. Got VAC-COM, scanned the car to figure out what causing rough idling. Have two codes but no dashboard lights. Codes are :
Address 01: Engine Labels: 077-907-558-BCY.lbl Part No: 4D1 907 558 D
Component: 4.2l V8/5VT G 0003
Coding: 0006752
Shop #: WSC 02195 785 00200
VCID: 2F6D04D6BD3CF646D7-5140


2 Faults Found:
17983 - Right Engine Mount Solenoid Valve (N145)
P1575 - 001 - Short to Plus
16406 - Bank 2: Camshaft A (Intake)
P0022 - 001 - Advance Setpoint not Reached (Over-Retarded)
Readiness: 0010 1101

Timing belt was done with proper tools, so it cannot be the problem and checked many times for proper fit.
Can someone help me out with second code, how to pin point the problem.
Thanks.

[hahnmgh63]

Engine mount Solenoids go bad, don't worry about it unless you detect it's going soft, then replace w/ Stearns or 034 Motorsports mounts. Bank 2 is actually the one on the Left, check the Cam Solenoid electrical connections at the front. If all looks ok with the plugs your going to have to at least pull the covers off the front (top) and recheck the timing marks.

[AndyRS6]

Is there any way for me to check cam saenoid thru vagc. In what group?

[lswing]

Sure you've looked this up, http://www.obd-codes.com/p0022

Try and log the cam adjusters and see if one doesn't show, or is way off. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/090-098.html

I forget the numbers, but each adjuster should be at -17.2 or something at idle I thought. Maybe you just disconnected or messed up some wiring. Just Google this and you'll find details.

I assume you're using ross-tech VCDS...

[AndyRS6]

yes, i use ross-teh. i did a log. Is that what you mean?


<colgroup><col width="64" span="16" style="width:48pt"> </colgroup><tbody>

Group A:
'091



Group B:
'092



Group C:
'093







Engine Speed
Engine Load
Adjustment
Adjustment

Engine Speed
Engine Load
Adjustment
Adjustment

Engine Speed
Engine Load
Phase Position
Phase Position



TIME
(G28)

Status
Bank 1
TIME
(G28)

Status
Bank 2
TIME
(G28)

Bank 1
Bank 2


Marker
STAMP
/min
%

°KW
STAMP
/min
%

°KW
STAMP
/min
%
°KW
°KW



0.27
760
20.3
OFF
0
0.45
760
20.3
OFF
0
0.11
760
20.3
-1
15



0.8
760
20.3
OFF
0
0.97
760
20.3
OFF
0
0.63
760
20.3
-1
15



1.3
760
20.3
OFF
0
1.47
760
20.3
OFF
0
1.13
760
20.3
-1
15



1.8
760
20.3
OFF
0
1.97
760
20.3
OFF
0
1.63
760
20.3
-1
15



2.3
760
20.3
OFF
0
2.47
760
20.3
OFF
0
2.13
760
20.3
-1
15



2.81
760
20.3
OFF
0
2.97
760
20.3
OFF
0
2.63
760
20.3
-1
15



3.3
760
20.3
OFF
0
3.47
760
20.3
OFF
0
3.13
760
20.3
-1
15



3.8
760
20.3
OFF
0
3.97
760
20.3
OFF
0
3.63
760
20.3
-1
15



4.29
720
20.3
OFF
0
4.46
760
20.3
OFF
0
4.13
760
20.3
-1
15



4.79
760
20.3
OFF
0
4.96
760
20.3
OFF
0
4.63
760
20.3
-1
15



5.29
760
20.3
OFF
0
5.46
760
20.3
OFF
0
5.14
760
20.3
-1
15



5.79
760
20.3
OFF
0
5.96
760
20.3
OFF
0
5.64
760
20.3
-1
15



6.29
760
20.3
OFF
0
6.46
760
20.3
OFF
0
6.14
720
20.3
-1
15



6.79
760
20.3
OFF
0
6.94
760
20.3
OFF
0
6.64
760
20.3
-1
15



7.26
760
20.3
OFF
-0.5
7.44
760
20.3
OFF
0
7.11
760
20.3
-1
15



7.76
760
20.3
OFF
0
7.94
760
20.3
OFF
0
7.61
760
20.3
-1
15



8.26
760
20.3
OFF
0
8.44
760
20.3
OFF
0
8.11
760
20.3
-1
15



8.76
760
20.3
OFF
0
8.94
760
20.3
OFF
0
8.61
760
20.3
-1
15



9.26
760
20.3
OFF
0
9.44
760
20.3
OFF
0
9.11
760
20.3
-1
15



9.78
760
20.3
OFF
0
9.94
760
20.3
OFF
0
9.61
760
20.3
-1
15

</tbody>

[lswing]

Edit, here's another, you sure seem to have some something wrong with the TB change.

http://audisrs.com/archive/cam-timing-help__o_t__t_38608.html

Look at group 93, your bank 1 and bank 2 angle is very different. I think they should be the same/similar.

Believe this applies to our engine also, says you should be around 0, so 15 is way out for bank 2, you got an issue there I'm guessing.

http://audisrs.com/archive/cam-timing-checking-with-vag-com__o_t__t_21169.html

[AndyRS6]

Is there a way to find out if the problem is with chain tensioner or timing belt off by 15 degrees. Trying to avoid to having to put in service position. I just switched chain tensioner solinoid from bank 1 to bank 2, no change.
Anyone have left chain tensioner for sale?

[lswing]

Dude, you messed up the timing, sure seems like. Get back in there and fix it. It's whatever you were working on. Sounds like it wasn't locked in place.

Edit; sorry, there is always the chance your cam tensioner pad happened to fail, mine did randomly one day. Valve cover off, look for shattered plastic.

[AndyRS6]

I'm already there, when I did timing belt I did chain tensioner pads too. Driver side was broken. How many chain links supposed to be between marks in left side, cuz i think im off. Also is there any way I can rotate the crank without putting in service position1742917430
Thank you for quick response :hey:

[hahnmgh63]

Not 100% sure but I think it was 16 links. I've got my Cam covers back on now so I'd have to pull them to check.

[AndyRS6]

I would appreciate your checking. Back to service position tomorrow. Thanks.

[mdegracia]

The distance between camshaft markings -A-and -B-must be 16 rollers of the drive chain. Position rollers 1 and 16 according to
illustration.

[AndyRS6]

Is that for left or right side? Cuz I need left one and i believe it should be 15.
Also, bank 2 is left (driver) side, correct.

[mdegracia]

Just align the timing marks as shown and you should be all set. The number of rollers between the points is kind of irrelevant, either the marks will be lined up or they won't be.

[AndyRS6]

Thanks. In the process right now. :mech:

[AndyRS6]

Ok, I stumped, did everything by the book.174321743317434
I have a question, when I opened valve cover, chain tensioner Piston was up, when I turn crank by hand Poston went down and never went up, so does the Piston works only by oil pump when car is running. Cuz now, as in the second picture I got big gap between pad and chain. Between links I have exactly 15 links. So looks like I'm link off, but still now sure if my chain tensioner stuck in closed position.

[AndyRS6]

1743517436

[mdegracia]

There will be a gap because the cam chain adjusters need oil pressure to adjust the shoes in both directions.
Rotate crank to TDC. Install the lock pin and set timing per that illustration.

[AndyRS6]

Is there a way to remove intake cam without removing tensioner? Of not, can I reuse chain tensioner gasket.

[Bigglezworth]

Update:Finally started the car. Got rough idling and check engine light. Fixed check engine-problem with MAF sensor, ground wire was separated. Got VAC-COM, scanned the car to figure out what causing rough idling. Have two codes but no dashboard lights. Codes are :
Address 01: Engine Labels: 077-907-558-BCY.lbl Part No: 4D1 907 558 D
Component: 4.2l V8/5VT G 0003
Coding: 0006752
Shop #: WSC 02195 785 00200
VCID: 2F6D04D6BD3CF646D7-5140


2 Faults Found:
17983 - Right Engine Mount Solenoid Valve (N145)
P1575 - 001 - Short to Plus
16406 - Bank 2: Camshaft A (Intake)
P0022 - 001 - Advance Setpoint not Reached (Over-Retarded)
Readiness: 0010 1101

Timing belt was done with proper tools, so it cannot be the problem and checked many times for proper fit.
Can someone help me out with second code, how to pin point the problem.
Thanks.The code suggests your intake and exhaust cams are not 'timed' to each other correctly. this suggests the cams were out and not reinstalled correctly. You mention a timing belt. Did you do tensioner shoes also or have any other ned to have the camshafts removed from the heads? There is a VERY specific setting for both the passenger and driver sidde heads - and NO they are not identical.... You can quickly pooch your engine if you mess this up. This is a tight tolerance engine, but the 1 tooth likely won't be critical as I know a number of people have had a tensioner pad disinegrate and after introducing that much slop in the timing they still didn't damage valves.

[Bigglezworth]

Is there a way to remove intake cam without removing tensioner?Nope

Can I reuse chain tensioner gasket?Many have before. It would be suitable to use a new gasket, but if you don't have downtime on your side, you can look to reuse yes.

[Bigglezworth]

Just align the timing marks as shown and you should be all set. The number of rollers between the points is kind of irrelevant, either the marks will be lined up or they won't be.I disagree with this statement. There is a specific number of rollers that needs to be counted as the alignment marks are different for the driver and passenger sides (drivers side is 15 links and passenger side is 16 links). The marks don't line up as well as you would like to make it idiot proof IMO. I've done this a few times and it does require double checking and counting each time to ensure 100% alignment.

[mdegracia]

The illustration shows the alignment. If the alignment is correct, you will only be able to fit so many rollers in the space. the gap between the adjuster pad and chain means nothing, it will pump up. The gasket can be reused if it was just installed.

[AndyRS6]

The code suggests your intake and exhaust cams are not 'timed' to each other correctly. this suggests the cams were out and not reinstalled correctly. You mention a timing belt. Did you do tensioner shoes also or have any other ned to have the camshafts removed from the heads? There is a VERY specific setting for both the passenger and driver sidde heads - and NO they are not identical.... You can quickly pooch your engine if you mess this up. This is a tight tolerance engine, but the 1 tooth likely won't be critical as I know a number of people have had a tensioner pad disinegrate and after introducing that much slop in the timing they still didn't damage valves.

Yes, i did tensioner shoes also. In this side top shoe was broken, before intake cam removal i mark everything and install back same way, count 15 links between marks. Cams and caps marks align perfect. Results-rough idling.
1743717440

[AndyRS6]

so i reset timing and now i got this.
1743817439

is that the way it suppose to be? can somebody confirm that :vhmmm:
will try to put everything together and will buy new gasket tomorrow. hopefully will fix the problem.
Thanks for your input.

[Bigglezworth]

Left hand (drivers side) cylinder head camshaft alignment

174411744217443174441744517446

Converting a .pdf service doc to .jpg image files reduces quality. If you want the .pdf, PM me with your email and I'll send it to you.

[Bigglezworth]

Right hand (passenger side) cylinder head camshaft alignment

174511745217453174541745517456

[AndyRS6]

Back to the beast, something doesn't make sense with chain timing. If I put 15 links between the marks, all marks align, but that's what I had with the error code and rough idling. Yesterday I switched to 16 and now my intake cam doesn't align, only exhaust. Back to square 1... is there anything else that can give me false code.17457
In this pic I got 15 links and mark aligh,,that's what I had with the issue.17458
In this one 16 links, intake canarks doesn't aligh. Not sure if I should start the car. As states earler, I got 16 links now.

Any thoughts, opinions on what can cause this error code? I'm open for any suggestions.

1745917460
Can someone please check if possible if the Piston stationary or moves up and down when you turn crank by hand. Would really appreciate the info.

[bethridg]

The full procedure requires popping the timing belt cam gear loose (press fit) with a gear puller to allow the exhaust cam to spin freely. Align everything, 16 rollers between then torque everything back down.

* crank at TDC with pin and cam bar installed before tightening everything down.

Also, the cam chain tensioner is hydraulic..it requires oil pressure to auto adjust.


Picture from when I did mine a while back.

http://i.imgur.com/eIR6DEeh.jpg

[G2]

I count 15 pins on B2 and 16 on B1 on the engine I'm working on. Align the cam marks, then count and position the link pins.

The tensioner ram will move as it's under spring tension. The tensioner may not be working while running, check the ohm value and power/ground as needed. A PowerProbe is great for quick and safe testing.

Worn guide rails and chains can and will effect cam timing. DTC's will set if the KW value is too far out of range. Cam timing should be advanced at idle and in power mode will sweep towards retardation.

The cam bearing bolts are one time use, as are cam sprocket bolts. Reusing the tensioner gasket is folly, far as preventing leaks.

Be sure cam/crank timing is sync'd with proper timing belt setup. Err on the side of slightly advanced if offsetting for worn valvetrain. Rotate engine and visually compare crank to cam positions. The engine will make more and better power when retarded. Not much room to play with on modern OBD engines, however. I do this on most engines, among other minute tricks based on engine design. Gained the most out of Porsche and Honda so far.

Once confident of baseline timing, look at other reasons for poor running. Hope that also helps.

[AndyRS6]

I count 15 pins on B2 and 16 on B1 on the engine I'm working on. Align the cam marks, then count and position the link pins.

The tensioner ram will move as it's under spring tension. The tensioner may not be working while running, check the ohm value and power/ground as needed. A PowerProbe is great for quick and safe testing.

Worn guide rails and chains can and will effect cam timing. DTC's will set if the KW value is too far out of range. Cam timing should be advanced at idle and in power mode will sweep towards retardation.

The cam bearing bolts are one time use, as are cam sprocket bolts. Reusing the tensioner gasket is folly, far as preventing leaks.

Be sure cam/crank timing is sync'd with proper timing belt setup. Err on the side of slightly advanced if offsetting for worn valvetrain. Rotate engine and visually compare crank to cam positions. The engine will make more and better power when retarded. Not much room to play with on modern OBD engines, however. I do this on most engines, among other minute tricks based on engine design. Gained the most out of Porsche and Honda so far.

Once confident of baseline timing, look at other reasons for poor running. Hope that also helps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-f9NsO_GsVQ

i found this video, in which tensioner goes up and down when you turn the crank, in my car however, it does not move up. should it?
in dtc position, the piston should be up, is it true?

[AndyRS6]

1746117462
There are no way to have 16 links and marks to be aligned, as shown on the second picture. when you release the gear from the exhaust cam, it does not provide space to have 16 links and proper alignment, i just tried...

[Bigglezworth]

1746117462
There are no way to have 16 links and marks to be aligned, as shown on the second picture. when you release the gear from the exhaust cam, it does not provide space to have 16 links and proper alignment, i just tried...

Can't help you if you're not going to perform the work in accordance with the service manual. The drivers side is 15 - NOT 16 rollers. The members saying 16 rollers need to remember that this engine has different count for drivers and passenger side. The height of the tensioner shoe has nothing to do with setting the timing of the cams. Remember a proper removal of the cams has the tensioner compressed. I'm concerned on why you are running around in a circle on this. It is exactly as the service doc shows. If you are still struggling with this item after reading through the sevice document I posted, I might suggest finding someone who is more experienced to complete the repair.

[AndyRS6]

Can't help you if you're not going to perform the work in accordance with the service manual. The drivers side is 15 - NOT 16 rollers. The members saying 16 rollers need to remember that this engine has different count for drivers and passenger side. The height of the tensioner shoe has nothing to do with setting the timing of the cams. Remember a proper removal of the cams has the tensioner compressed. I'm concerned on why you are running around in a circle on this. It is exactly as the service doc shows. If you are still struggling with this item after reading through the sevice document I posted, I might suggest finding someone who is more experienced to complete the repair.


I did everything by the manual, all my marks aligned with 15 links. However, when I did that and ran vac com ross tech, it said that my alignment is off by 15 degree,P0022 - 001 - Advance Setpoint not Reached (Over-Retarded) that's what triggered this conundrum. So I'm trying to find that 15 degree variance in bank 2. I'm not going against the manual. I'm just following suggestions after I posted my log with the error trying to find the problem. This is not my first engine which I'm taking apart and putting together, so I'm quite familiar with what I'm doing.

[Bigglezworth]

If all your timing marks are lining up, the only thing that could possibly cause your code then is a bad tensioner. The timing marks are all static points of reference and the tensioner is the only item in the whole set-up that permits/provides variance.

I can tell you without any uncertainty that the tensioners on each of my cars that I have performed a swap for shoes and seals required compression to introduce sufficient slack in the drive chain to remove the cams. I never had a situation whereupon either the top or bottom piston didn't push back out to take up slack - even without there being oil pressure.

When you swapped pads, the pistons all stayed inside the tensioner housing correct??

[AndyRS6]

If all your timing marks are lining up, the only thing that could possibly cause your code then is a bad tensioner. The timing marks are all static points of reference and the tensioner is the only item in the whole set-up that permits/provides variance.

I can tell you without any uncertainty that the tensioners on each of my cars that I have performed a swap for shoes and seals required compression to introduce sufficient slack in the drive chain to remove the cams. I never had a situation whereupon either the top or bottom piston didn't push back out to take up slack - even without there being oil pressure.

When you swapped pads, the pistons all stayed inside the tensioner housing correct??

i'm putting everything back together per manual with 15 links again. So, if my piston does not move up and down when i crank by hand that means that i have bad tensioner? it is visible that it wants to, but it doesnt. cuz i think my locked in in closed position and top one doesnt move at all. so if i have bad tensioner, can it cause the timing to be 15 degrees off?

yes, when i remove tensioner, bottom part from the left side that adjust by the spring was out, there was nothing to hold that bottom piston in place.

Thank you for your input. i appreciate it.

[hahnmgh63]

Andy, as Bigglezworth mentioned, are you using the tensioner compression tool to compress the tensioner before removal? When decompressed the tensioner takes the slack out of the chain. Normally off I think the number was -3 to 6' KW then on was 16' to 25' KW. At Idle, warm or cold it should always be at the un-shifted (timing retarded). Above idle it will shift but the proper checking of it has the engine at warm for oil and emissions to check it for the shift.
Engine off: If there is no oil pressure, a spring-loaded locking pin is pushed into the detent slot of the adjusting piston. The adjusting piston is then locked.
Engine running: Once a defined oil pressure has been reached, it acts on the surface of the locking pin, i.e. against the resistance of the spring. The locking pin releases the adjusting piston so that the engine control unit can adjust the timing in the “Advance“ direction.

[lswing]

If you get desperate I have both functioning tensions from my car with 98k and new pads on them. I just put brand new ones in after the pads broke, since we were in there. Was trying to sell for $450, but maybe could help you out.

[bethridg]

yes, when i remove tensioner, bottom part from the left side that adjust by the spring was out, there was nothing to hold that bottom piston in place.

There is a special tool 3366 used to compress the tensioner to keep that from happening


http://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a4_mk1/images/a4-2645.png

[mrdave]

There is a special tool 3366 used to compress the tensioner to keep that from happening

Get several, they break fairly easily.

Here's a cheap source: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-VW-Timing-Cam-Chain-Adjuster-Tensioner-Holder-Holding-Tool-/231659961001

[AndyRS6]

Get several, they break fairly easily.

Here's a cheap source: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-VW-Timing-Cam-Chain-Adjuster-Tensioner-Holder-Holding-Tool-/231659961001

I got two of them. I'm right now putting everything back together, hope I can start in 2hr.
Thanks everyone for trying to help me

[AndyRS6]

update: i put everything together by the manual-15 links (FYI in US models, left driver side bank 2 will not fit 16 links, however if you put 16 or 14 you still will be able to crank and not band the valves, i tested)
i also redid timing belt to be sure that all marks align and everything in timing. when i started the car from cold in service position, no coolant everything sounded fine. i cleared the codes and checked the timing, everything was fine. after i put everything together, now i have a code (see picture) vac-com group 93 phase position bank 2 has no info at all. any thoughts? (electrical problem?)
17472

1747317474

this is my cold start after timing belt re-done.
17475

[hahnmgh63]

Who knows, somebody else needs to log Gp93. Since you get it in Gp92 I would think all is fine as those KW numbers look Ok. Can somebody else with a running car :) on here log all 3 Gp's?

[lswing]

Who knows, somebody else needs to log Gp93. Since you get it in Gp92 I would think all is fine as those KW numbers look Ok. Can somebody else with a running car :) on here log all 3 Gp's?

I'll try and check later tonight. Almost sure 93 logs both...wire loose now after all the messing around down there?

[lswing]

Here is at idle...
17477

Here is revved up a bit, you can see the values increase in 91 and 92 for each bank...
17478

Not really sure about 93, it's there, but the values are static.

[AndyRS6]

Here is at idle...
17477

Here is revved up a bit, you can see the values increase in 91 and 92 for each bank...
17478

Not really sure about 93, it's there, but the values are static.

Thanks for info. Looks like I got electrical issue.

[bethridg]

Have you tried testing/replacing the cam position sensor (G163) on bank 2? You don't show a value for Phase Position Bank 2. What I'm reading says that value is a calculation using the Engine Speed Sensor (G28) and Camshaft Position Sensor(G163) readings. It should be somewhere around 0 +/-6.

I'm pretty sure if there was something wrong with the Engine Speed Sensor(G28) the car wouldn't start.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17755/P1347/004935
17755/P1347/004935 - Camshaft Position Sensor 2 (G163) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correl.Possible CausesTiming Belt/Chain incorrectly installed
<ul style="line-height: 1.5em; list-style-type: square; margin-top: 0.3em; margin-right: 0px; margin-left: 1.6em; list-style-image: url(&quot;arrow.gif&quot;);">Timing Chain probably lengthened
</ul>Camshaft Position Sensor 2 (G163) faulty
Engine Speed Sensor (G28) faulty
Possible SolutionsCheck Timing Belt/Chain installation
<ul style="line-height: 1.5em; list-style-type: square; margin-top: 0.3em; margin-right: 0px; margin-left: 1.6em; list-style-image: url(&quot;arrow.gif&quot;);">Use Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) to Check Timing Chain
</ul>Check/Replace Camshaft Position Sensor 2 (G163)
Check/Replace Engine Speed Sensor (G28)

I could be completely wrong; just throwing it out there.

[AndyRS6]

That's what I thought, but in group 92 adjustment bank 2 would not show, if the sensor wasn't working. Or is there another sensor that reads that info?

[AndyRS6]

Just check g163 sensor -working fine, any suggestions?

[lswing]

You're using Ross-Tech VCDS you said...so if a sensor was out it would tell you. Something is not connected it seems...

[AndyRS6]

Update, problem solved, all it cost me $15 and luck. So the problem was cam chain tensioner. I got also 2002 A6 4.2 and the part# was the same. Vent to salvage yard with my tools and found 2002 4.2 with low mileage and full engine, picked up both tensioners and some other parts.:jlol:
17489
Also found what was wrong with my old tensioner, piston under solenoid was stuck, that what cause my ross-tech in group 93-4 to be blank.

17490 piston
17491good position
17492 bad, i also check in my 4.2 and salvage yard 4.2 ,piston suppose to be out.
My new logs
17493 17494
and my projects
17495
also need transmission output seal and axle seals.:incar:

[Bigglezworth]

Update, problem solved, all it cost me $15 and luck. So the problem was cam chain tensioner.


If all your timing marks are lining up, the only thing that could possibly cause your code then is a bad tensioner...

Winner, winner, chicken dinner.... :) Too bad you lost more down time chasing other things. Glad you're all up and running again.

[AndyRS6]

Winner, winner, chicken dinner.... :) Too bad you lost more down time chasing other things. Glad you're all up and running again.


Actually it was very productive, i did a lot of research and learned many things,:idea: so time was not wasted. I appreciate your input and would like your opinion; my transmission output flange and passenger axle flange seals are leaking oil, would you recommend genuine Audi seals or other brands, are they both the same part#?
Thanks


Air box much easier to remove and install without MAF sensors.....:hahahehe:
17503

[Bigglezworth]

Anything that is responsible for keeping oil in place always gets the OEM part as best possible on my end.

A number of members have removed the MAF's from the air cleaner assembly yes. I remain unclear to this day why the engineers designed it the way they did when clearly it makes more sense to have the MAF's static.

[AndyRS6]

Thanks....:thumb:

[hahnmgh63]

Congratulations on the fix.