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View Full Version : pulling engine to replace turbos..... what else while in there?



sempaipaul
May 11th, 2016, 11:33
Alright folks,

I am pulling the engine to replace my turbos and, need to figure out anything and everything I should do while in there. I am thinking the timing belt service (as I'll have to do it in 20k miles anyway) - but, it'd be great to hear what else you guys think. Also thinking of replacing the engine and tranny mounts with some sturdier/sport ones (need recommendations, please)

Car has 86K miles.

Thanks
Paul

lswing
May 11th, 2016, 12:54
Rebuild turbos? Scroll. Come back brand new. Someone just had a long thread on this, still on this front page...Bufkin pipe for sure, old hoses, seals, cam tens guides...transmission. Maintenance tab of my website has info too.

How bad are the turbos? 100% that's the issue? These usually last at least 125k.

sempaipaul
May 11th, 2016, 13:55
Rebuild turbos? Scroll. Come back brand new. Someone just had a long thread on this, still on this front page...Bufkin pipe for sure, old hoses, seals, cam tens guides...transmission. Maintenance tab of my website has info too.

How bad are the turbos? 100% that's the issue? These usually last at least 125k.

Correct. I anticipate on having them rebuilt with Scroll. I am considering the hybrid modification. I did also for a short time consider loba 650's but those are twice the cost of rebuild from Scrol ($3,500).

My guy says the left turbo went. This all came upon in a weird circumstance where the car first had a large fuel leak from the fuel pump gasket under rear seat (completely unrelated) and that got fixed. Then it started to idle real high upon ignition so, took it to my guy and he found a few check valves under manifold busted. He went through and replaced them, a few vacuum lines, and the coilpacks, spark plugs, as well as the valve cover gaskets. After this the right side of the car emits a "supercharger like" sound and looses most of its power. The sound is only audible at about 2000rpm+ and gets progressively "faster".

He took off the manifold several times and rechecked everything --- however all seems good.

Car also sounds like it's missing --- however no codes.

Thanks,
Paul

lswing
May 11th, 2016, 14:19
Good plan on Scroll.

Sure doesn't sound like a turbo issue though. Failed cam tensioner guide will mess things up like that, and just one side or the other. I'd use VCDS to read what they are doing, easy.

Bigglezworth
May 11th, 2016, 14:19
Easy to tell if a turbo went. Down on power, and lots of oil collecting in the bottom intercooler hose. Center sections (CHRA's) can be purchased for a 1/3 the cost of a whole unit. Rebuild kits can be purchased for $50. I suspect your impeller is toast so a rebuild isn't possible. Turbo's can be replaced without "removing" the powerplant. It does require car to be in service position, removal of exhaust and downpipes, disconnecting intercooler hoses, along with dropping the powerplant inside it's cradle a nominal 6-8", but still leaves a number of other items untouched which can save you some time.

I would look to remove your SAI system and put on blockoff plates if you don't have local emissions that requires it. I would do the oil cooler pipe replacement (Bufkin is referenced often because of a guy that machined up an aluminum replacement).

Aronis
May 12th, 2016, 00:59
Midwest Turbo, new CHRA's are $370 each.

Check waste gate controls....

I changed....
0yxgen sensors, seals on exhaust and intake, throttle body seal, jet sump, turbos, Belkin pipe, one fuel injector, all the fuel injector o rings, tube to the radiator over flow tank, oil filter housing gaskets, flywheel bolts, rear main seal with flange and gasket, exhaust studs and nuts, an engine mount, Serpentine belt, input and output seals on transmission, transmission seal,

Mike

peiserg
May 14th, 2016, 01:13
When I had the engine out for my transmission, I did both turbos, torque converter, rebuild starter and reseal intercoolers comma plus every hose and sensor that was easily accessed during that time. At greatly discounted labor it came to around $13,000 even. That included all parts

peiserg
May 14th, 2016, 01:14
Also I did timing belt and water pump

Aronis
May 14th, 2016, 01:20
When I had the engine out for my transmission, I did both turbos, torque converter, rebuild starter and reseal intercoolers comma plus every hose and sensor that was easily accessed during that time. At greatly discounted labor it came to around $13,000 even. That included all parts

Peiserg, was the $13,000 including the transmission? or just the labor and other parts?

Mike

DHall1
May 14th, 2016, 02:53
I think it was everything. There is a great Indy master tech down here

peiserg
May 14th, 2016, 07:21
That's all in. Labor @50/hr plus parts

Aronis
May 14th, 2016, 08:55
So do they keep notes on how many hours they actually worked on the car or use Audi data on hours to charge?

peiserg
May 16th, 2016, 07:11
my guy uses actual hours, though he estimates ahead of time based on audi. The rate is so good though, who cares if he runs over. For what i had done, if it was at the audi dealer, would have been more than $20,000 easily. EASILY. Maybe $30k because they would not have parts rebuilt. I.E. transmission.. turbos, starter, sealed the intercoolers, and oh that's right i did the PS pump too (leaking). My guy will look online for least expensive source, or use an aftermarket if he deems the part relatively unimportant. Or have the hoses custom made (still far less than an Audi part). He is literally the ONLY reason i still have my RS6 at 145k miles.