Tarp or sell?

[Other_Erik]

The time has come where I can't keep spending $2 in repairs per mile driven in the RS6. Buying a house in the DC area means that money is not going to be available anymore for at least 5 years. The only question now, is do I sell, or do I turn in the plates and tarp it in the garage? VA will continue to property tax me to the tune of ~$400/year, so that's a $2000 sunk cost, not to mention not being able to use my garage for storing anything bigger than a weed-whacker.

If I do decide to tarp it, what should I do beyond:
1) Run the gas tank near empty, adding a couple sips when I start it every few months
2) Put it on a battery tender, and
3) Replace half the engine oil with lucas oil stabilizer

I hate the thought of selling it, but I did a lookover of the repairs receipts (NOT including the $9k from hitting a 4-inch pothole at 4mph), and in the 11,400 miles I've driven it since June of 2013, parts and labor has cost me over $23k. Smiles per mile is nice, but I can't afford to drop the cost of a used car every year or three just to keep the beast running. Will probably get well and truly f-ed on the backend if I decide to sell it as well, just turned 136k miles so KBB pegs the value around $11k, which is less than the maintenance/repairs I put into it in the past 10 months.

Thoughts?

[nene]

@O_E,
That is a tough call, but if you really don't plan to drive it for a few years, I don't think the car will go higher in value in the garage. You could try and sell it to the right interested party for a bit more than KBB if the car is in good running condition now.
Personally I would go with selling it.

Good luck on your tough decision my friend.

[lswing]

Ugh, tough numbers there. I would worry about my car sitting, plastic/rubber seals drying out, getting older. Not really sure how valid of a point that really is, but it seems to make sense. If you have to sell it, try and get a premium on the sale price if you can, then look into buying another one when the opportunity comes around. You need a bigger garage! Keep it if you can and try and just do short local drives while keeping your fingers crossed nothing else breaks...I've been doing that some.

[Avus-RS6]

Your cost per mile will only increase the less you drive it. If you can not worry about that, garage it and bring her back to life in five years. I think your plan for storage sounds good. If you can block it up also, it'll keep your tires round.

[Other_Erik]

Your cost per mile will only increase the less you drive it. If you can not worry about that, garage it and bring her back to life in five years. I think your plan for storage sounds good. If you can block it up also, it'll keep your tires round.

Plan on using 4* 1.5-ton jack stands, under the frame to keep her off the pavement if I go this route. Can already hear the complaints if I do, garage is already quite small and this won't help... Not worried about cost per mile if I'm putting zero miles on it. At least I'll be able to drop it from the insurance and that'll save quite a bit.

O_E

[GreggPDX]

I kinda hate to admit it, but I've never successfully brought a car out of retirement. Every time I've parked a car, I lose interest and end up selling it. I feel like the RS6 is the kinda car that you need to be driving fairly regularly to remind you why you spent all that money. I think you're probably better off selling and banking the money to purchase another one down-the-road when the house stuff settles.

Tough situation, but you probably won't go far wrong either way.

Just my $.02

[nubcake]

I vote sell it. It's just a car, after all.
Later in your life get another one if you feel like it. Maybe even an avant?

[Dmb408]

I vote sell it. It's just a car, after all.
Later in your life get another one if you feel like it. Maybe even an avant?

But then again the flip side to that is it may never be the same in the future...I sold a MkIV R32 Blue w/36000 miles in 2010, mint condition, had owned it for five years...I can't find anything comparable anymore...they just didn't hold up under daily driver wear and tear. So now all I have is regrets that I sold it.

[nubcake]

But then again the flip side to that is it may never be the same in the future...I sold a MkIV R32 Blue w/36000 miles in 2010, mint condition, had owned it for five years...I can't find anything comparable anymore...they just didn't hold up under daily driver wear and tear. So now all I have is regrets that I sold it.

Life goes on, there's no need to overly attach to the piece of metal that is replaceable anyways.
You can always get some car that brings you smiles, just keep watching and be ready to jump on it. :)

I understand what you mean, but replace the term "regrets" with "nostalgia" and all of a sudden - it's way easier to think about it. :)

[lswing]

I would also consider how much of the money you put in, and think about all the new/upgraded parts on this car that you won't find on a used one...odds are at least. I think the market will stay fairly low for these cars for at least 5-10 years, maybe then they'll gain traction as collectable, but the cost to own is just to high.

For me, the fact I've got a new transmission, torque converter, Wagner IC's, custom tune and TCU tuned, custom water meth, an assortment of new parts, summer/winter wheel sets, and almost perfect interior would make it harder to part with.

[Turbowned]

I'm in that boat with you, mate. I daily drive it now and 12mpg in stop-and-go to work in Boston isn't fair treatment for this beast. I also don't feel like I have the financial solvency to weather another big unexpected repair like the steering rack/suspension jobber I had last year. That and an impending timing belt job in 12k miles which I won't have a garage space for is making me mighty uneasy... might sell and find a little B5 1.8T Avant to replace it with. *sigh* Probably best to move on.

[G2]

In terms of storage:

1) Keep the gas tank FULL, never low or empty. Use fuel stabilizer.
2) Yes, use a smart charger only
3) Change the oil and filter. Never leave old oil in. The new Amsoil 0-40 has an extremely high 12TBN rating to help with infrequent use.... Anything is better than used oil.
4) Drive the car every few months. Do not run the engine w/o driving it for 20 minutes or longer.
4a) If driving is not an option, run the engine and trans to temperature every 3-6 months.
4b) For large temperature and humidity swings, the car sits longer (6 months) remove plugs and treat cylinders with oil (spray type). Rotate engine.

I've had my diesels sit 1-2 years and always start right up. Bought another that sat for 3+ years. Yep, started right up. Running it every month like some do is bad for an engine.

I'd leave the car on the ground. This will keep suspension and bushings in their normal state. Prevents 'learning' the wrong position if jacked up. Tires will be sacrificed- it's cheaper; tires age out either way. I'm going on 14yrs with one of my cars (yeah, I know...)

Justifying costs on this car is tough- your story must sting, perhaps a lot. But it goes beyond simple economics, at least for me: what can you buy later that offers so much, is so unique, offers stealthy Q car status, and is paid for, etc al. If the residual costs are not in the budget and caring for it along the way isn't either, then the House wins.

Eventually these cars will go up in value, just like everything else does, even if it's a POS 80's 'merican tar and feather special.

These cars are Cash Sale only since dropping off the 10yr Bank Finance table. If selling, you'll get more than $11K. If not out there, it would here. I've got room, that'd make 3 under one roof and another waiting.

[Turbowned]

They make rounded plastic platforms to reduce flat spotting of tires; not sure if they work though.

[fukinavit]

Sell, sounds like you got a real lemon, move on to something more modern.

[ttboost]

Sell it...and never look back....

[Bigglezworth]

Sell it. You will ALWAYS be able to buy another one later should you elect to own one again.

PS 23K is painful! Yes there is work to maintain, but that is excruciating. I guess I'm thankful I can undertake any type of repair at the cost of parts, downtime, and my own free labour. I know that all three of my cars that includes a all expensive items such as transmissions, turbos, suspension, brakets, timing belts, etc., haven't added to to that amount over 7 years....

[Aronis]

Perspective....

Thus far my total cash outlay to own this car (less auto insurance and gas) has averaged $1034 per month.
(about $54,000 in extended warrantee, tires, oil, repairs over 13 1/2 years.)

My part of our health insurance costs are $1200 per month.
My mortgage is $3700 per month.
Cable and internet $300 per month.

Etc.

My RS6 is my therapy car...this was the last repair I'll do before parting with it, but if it runs for a year or more it will be money well spent. It will drop my monthly average cost to $964. I'll be interested in what the Parts will fetch when I part it out to the other die hard RS6 drivers.

KEEP IT!!!!! Drive it....you'll only spend more on the next one, or worse spend a lot more on a brand new RS6 which is rumored to be coming to the US in 2018 or '19....Audi Sport Division is what I have been told, all RS's, all the time...LOL....

Mike

[ttboost]

Sell it. You will ALWAYS be able to buy another one later should you elect to own one again.

PS 23K is painful! Yes there is work to maintain, but that is excruciating. I guess I'm thankful I can undertake any type of repair at the cost of parts, downtime, and my own free labour. I know that all three of my cars that includes a all expensive items such as transmissions, turbos, suspension, brakets, timing belts, etc., haven't added to to that amount over 7 years....

Yeah, I feel this way also. I only spent about $5k on my RS6 in 2 years of ownership, and that included a manual conversion...NO car should cost that much to own...There are plenty of cars that you can enjoy without going bankrupt from owning them...

[Turbowned]

I think it's reasonable to expect to budget $2-3k per year on maintenance and repair for our cars. Some years you might get lucky, others you might get clobbered with a full brake job, trans failure, etc.

In the past 14 months I've been hit with three blown tires, a leaking steering rack, torn axle boot, failed alternator and battery, front brake replacement, worn struts/control arms, and seized rear caliper.

The prior year I only replaced a faulty coolant temp sensor to the tune of $27.

Win some, lose some. Hope my trans holds out for at least a couple more years so I can do the T-belt next year and not kill myself if something else goes wrong. Just keep listening to those turbos spool; it's therapy for all the madness!

[Other_Erik]

Decision has been made to sell. Hopefully I'll be able to not get as thoroughly f*cked as originally thought. Stats below and hopeful selling price:

The "bad"
136k miles on chassis

The good
--FULL-- Documentation from Day 1 of original owner (Aug 4th, 2004) to present. Thick folder full of receipts and service records.
39k miles on Engine, Transmission, TC, and driver-side K04
~7k miles on passenger-side K04
KWV3 (39k miles) and Hotchkis suspension (4k miles) upgrades
SE Exhaust and CF Interior in black on black coloring
TB/WP/pulleys/etc job done at 130k miles (6k miles on it)
RNS-E installed, Bluetooth Module included
K-40 front/rear radar detector and laser jammer (license plate mounts)
RS5 Scallop front rotors, 2-piece ECS rear rotors, Hawk HPC pads all around, Calipers services with new boots and lubricants, Fluid flushed with DOT5.1 ~4k miles ago
Summer setup: PSS's on stock refinished rims with ~6k miles on them
Winter setup: Blizzak's on stock refinished rims painted Lava Grey with ~4k miles on them
Wall-mount tire/wheel rack for storing second set still in box ($400ish)

Most Recent service: Replaced EGT's, removed SAI, replumbed all vac lines under the UIM, replaced Aux water pump, BND Steering Pump flush and lube, CPS replaced, UIM gaskets replaced, Injector O-rings replaced
2nd Most Recent service: Cam Tensioners, Cam Plugs, Alternator, and Valve Cover Gaskets

So including purchase, total cost to me has been ~$41k to own it for less than three years. Think I'll be able to get $22k back since it's tip-f'ing-top with every bell and whistle except warm weather package?

[DHall1]

Sell is a good choice given the situation. If I spent that kind of cash on any vehicle it would be auction time.

My carry cost for 3 running RS6s per year is about $1200 dollars total. Plates and insurance.

Choose where you live very carefully.

[rs6BC]

I'm at the point of selling mine as well :/