Car dies everytime I try and start it

[spoolinrs6]

hey guys a recently took out my rs6 from the garage to drive it this weekend and everytime i drive it somewhere i have to jump it because it dies. today i went to a couple places and everytime i would start it it wont start. id have to jump it. the car does have electricity opening locking the car with the dash lights but doesnt start. the battery light, brake light, headlight all went on at the same time when i started it. also the window was very slow going back up. has this happened to anyone before?

[G2]

Check the battery, charging, and parasitic drains. About 175MV max.

[lswing]

Assuming your dash readout is a constant 14V, alternator is fine. Sounds like an old battery. Keep in on a trickle charger.

I had the cold take out the battery in my truck last week. Was so dead it took multiple jumps as it would run on it's own.

[spoolinrs6]

No its not on 14v It was around 9-10ish. I have been keeping it on a trickle charge for couple months before it came out. Hopefully in the next few days I'll check and change the battery hopefully it goes back to normal.


Assuming your dash readout is a constant 14V, alternator is fine. Sounds like an old battery. Keep in on a trickle charger.

I had the cold take out the battery in my truck last week. Was so dead it took multiple jumps as it would run on it's own.

[Bigglezworth]

Bad alternator. At 9-10V is clear that cars electonics are drawing from battery during each drive. Slid 14-14.2V required during proper alternator charging process. Could be just a bad regulator, but still requires an alternator pull. Best to put front clip in service position for the R&R erffort.

#1 - replace/rebuild alternator
#2 - have battery power cycled at shop to see if it has been compromised as a result
#3 - replace battery if test fails in #2.
#4 - keep enjoying your ride.

[spoolinrs6]

That's fucking nice. And how much does an alternator cost? Do you know where its located? Is it easy to change?


Bad alternator. At 9-10V is clear that cars electonics are drawing from battery during each drive. Slid 14-14.2V required during proper alternator charging process. Could be just a bad regulator, but still requires an alternator pull. Best to put front clip in service position for the R&R erffort.

#1 - replace/rebuild alternator
#2 - have battery power cycled at shop to see if it has been compromised as a result
#3 - replace battery if test fails in #2.
#4 - keep enjoying your ride.

[Other_Erik]

That's fucking nice. And how much does an alternator cost? Do you know where its located? Is it easy to change?

Therein, as they say, lies the rub.

AoA doesn't stock them anymore (call around, you may find a stealership with one sitting on the shelf), and OE suppliers I've found are selling an Interchange part that doesn't interchange properly. If you can stomach having your RS6 down for a week or so, you could have your Alternator pulled and send it off for rebuild - I've used Kaestner Auto in Wisconsin, and they've been awesome thus far. They're the ones who found the issue with the non-interchangeable part - the pulley shaft is too small of a diameter and doesn't stick far enough out of the alternator to have the proper pulley mounted. As for location/changing - the alternator is under the engine and is an enormous pain in the ass to get to / R&R. I took mine to a local shop, they charged 6 hours labor and that was on the low side since they know me and have worked on my cars before.

Good luck!

O_E

[lswing]

That's fucking nice. And how much does an alternator cost? Do you know where its located? Is it easy to change?

Google "site:rs6.com alternator"...you'll get plenty of info, although looks like Erik spelled it out.

Hey, don't complain too much, my car was leaking coolant, and just sprung a fuel leak down by the pumps...

[spoolinrs6]

i have my own mechanic shop at a bunch of lifts i can do the job myself. my rs6 has been sitting in a temp. garage for months i only take it out for shows/weekends. the problem here your saying is its very hard to find. you think i should just change the regulator and the battery see if its gonna work? i dont wanna drop a lotta money if its an easy fix.


Therein, as they say, lies the rub.

AoA doesn't stock them anymore (call around, you may find a stealership with one sitting on the shelf), and OE suppliers I've found are selling an Interchange part that doesn't interchange properly. If you can stomach having your RS6 down for a week or so, you could have your Alternator pulled and send it off for rebuild - I've used Kaestner Auto in Wisconsin, and they've been awesome thus far. They're the ones who found the issue with the non-interchangeable part - the pulley shaft is too small of a diameter and doesn't stick far enough out of the alternator to have the proper pulley mounted. As for location/changing - the alternator is under the engine and is an enormous pain in the ass to get to / R&R. I took mine to a local shop, they charged 6 hours labor and that was on the low side since they know me and have worked on my cars before.

Good luck!

O_E

[spoolinrs6]

that sucks but thanks ill check it out. mine only has 50k miles im surprised it went out that fast maybe cause its been sitting awhile.


Google "site:rs6.com alternator"...you'll get plenty of info, although looks like Erik spelled it out.

Hey, don't complain too much, my car was leaking coolant, and just sprung a fuel leak down by the pumps...

[spoolinrs6]

just checked the battery it says 15 volts

[Other_Erik]

just checked the battery it says 15 volts

This, combined with your symptoms, tells me you've got a different problem. My car started and ran just fine with a non-op alternator so long as the battery had/kept a charge. Sorry, I don't have any more advice to add here, being the noob that I am with regards to the RS6.

Good luck!

O_E

[LIRS6]

I replaced just the regulator - that was my issue (at about 130K). Per above, do a search - i had part number and place of purchase on my thread. Yes, a pita, as you have to remove the alternator to get to the regulator - i had my car up on jack stands, took a lot of elbow grease and patience.

[Bigglezworth]

As I stated above. Bad alternator. Alternators these days have built in voltage regulators vs. the old days when the regulator was a separate item that mounted to a firewall or fender. The VR is clearly not working if you are seeing a voltage while the car is running that is less than the 14-14.2V. Due to bolt access, you cannot replace the VR with the alternator in situ. It's location and access to fasteners makes for a less than enjoyalbe repair. "Almost" as much fun as replacing an EGT sensor....

[EINHORN]

I also replaced VR got it here rmeuropean

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/0031546506-MFG14.aspx

Here's the thread btw

http://www.rs6.com/archive/index.php/t-26526.html

Be ready for bad starter too. Went through all of this, new vr, new battery, then starter would lock up, notwithstanding the more than adequate voltage.

[spoolinrs6]

yesterday i charged the battery and last night i went to go drive it the car is perfectly back to normal now. maybe its just been sitting for awhile thats why

[Other_Erik]

yesterday i charged the battery and last night i went to go drive it the car is perfectly back to normal now. maybe its just been sitting for awhile thats why

I thought you said the battery was charged already? 15V output? Was it just not enough Cranking Amps? Something doesn't seem right at all. I'd be keeping a close eye on this if I were you.

O_E

[hahnmgh63]

If you say it is running fine now after charging, still check the voltage at the battery when running, don't trust the dash gauge and tell us what it reads.

[Bigglezworth]

A proper voltage test needs to be conducted. You stated the dash gauge shows less than 10V. That means that your battery has been subject to repeated load cycling that is drawing voltage down and over time I believe has compromised the battery.

If if your alternator isn't charging properly, you will have a short lived moment of joy. Get a proper voltage test done.

[spoolinrs6]

yea def. im gonna drive it this weekend and see what happens. i most likely guarantee because its been sitting awhile. i have a question thats off topic which might sound stupid, but the car slams into reverse and drive hard. when i first bought the car it was like this and i put it on the lift it was a like built or customized tranny. it def did not look original as i had a mechanic look at it too. is the trans going or does it just need adjusting? anyone ever had this problem before?

[lswing]

You could just have upgraded valve body pressure in the trans. Mine is maxed out, and if I slow down really slow, real light on the brake pedal, it gets pissed and slams the gears due to the rpm shift point not being ideal. Never in reverse though. And always smooth and quick shifting when accelerating or decelerating quickly.

[spoolinrs6]

the car shifts really smooth through the gears. only time it slams is like if im gonna back out the driveway it slams in reverse same going forward without moving the car. is there any way to fix this issue?


You could just have upgraded valve body pressure in the trans. Mine is maxed out, and if I slow down really slow, real light on the brake pedal, it gets pissed and slams the gears due to the rpm shift point not being ideal. Never in reverse though. And always smooth and quick shifting when accelerating or decelerating quickly.