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vtraudt
February 24th, 2016, 20:19
Looking for suggestions where to start with troubleshooting:
- VAGcom scan for codes, write down, erase
- crank. See what codes come back
- crank position sensor bad IIRC creates 'crank no start'? checking crank sensor with VAGcom, engine module, measuring block where RPM show. Crank. If values (100 rpm or so) show the crank sensor good?
- likely unrelated: had very cold temp start problems. then: fired/started after a few tries, but did not want to take gas; idle slowly increased and stabilized, then driving fine; restarting fine when warm
- check fuses (which circuit/fuse can create 'crank, no start' condition?
- remove rear seat bench and listen for fuel pumps to kick in. I would assume car would at least fire a bit if only one of the 2 pumps (in tank and in line) died, or?
- remove spark plug and check for spark
- not sure how to test for fuel, except lots of cranking and taking plug out and check if wet, and gas smell from exhaust? Suggestions

Other notorious failure source that could lead to crank/no start?

Corbett
February 25th, 2016, 02:19
The last two audis I've heard of with crack no start were both out of fuel lol. Add 5 gallons.

pump in the tank feeds the pump that's in line. Check the filter as well.

fuel line comes off at the rail only take a few minutes stick it in a bottle and crank see if any fuel comes out.

lswing
February 25th, 2016, 02:51
Looking for suggestions where to start with troubleshooting:
- VAGcom scan for codes, write down, erase
- crank. See what codes come back
- crank position sensor bad IIRC creates 'crank no start'? checking crank sensor with VAGcom, engine module, measuring block where RPM show. Crank. If values (100 rpm or so) show the crank sensor good?
- likely unrelated: had very cold temp start problems. then: fired/started after a few tries, but did not want to take gas; idle slowly increased and stabilized, then driving fine; restarting fine when warm
- check fuses (which circuit/fuse can create 'crank, no start' condition?
- remove rear seat bench and listen for fuel pumps to kick in. I would assume car would at least fire a bit if only one of the 2 pumps (in tank and in line) died, or?
- remove spark plug and check for spark
- not sure how to test for fuel, except lots of cranking and taking plug out and check if wet, and gas smell from exhaust? Suggestions

Other notorious failure source that could lead to crank/no start?

When did it last start?

lswing
February 25th, 2016, 02:52
The last two audis I've heard of with crack no start were both out of fuel lol. Add 5 gallons.

pump in the tank feeds the pump that's in line. Check the filter as well.

fuel line comes off at the rail only take a few minutes stick it in a bottle and crank see if any fuel comes out.

I see they're finally fitting turbos yea? Those looked nice, extra exhaust port to manage pressure?

vtraudt
February 25th, 2016, 12:28
When did it last start?

3 hours before when driven to dinner place.
Outside temps around 30 F.
Had started fine for the drive.

vtraudt
February 25th, 2016, 12:31
The last two audis I've heard of with crack no start were both out of fuel lol. Add 5 gallons.

pump in the tank feeds the pump that's in line. Check the filter as well.

fuel line comes off at the rail only take a few minutes stick it in a bottle and crank see if any fuel comes out.

Towed car finally arrive here (midnight; got 10" of snow yesterday, not a good day to request a tow; plus yet untold tickets for car parked in metered area).
Inside heated garage since then.
Will try start first, then check above list and suggestions.

lswing
February 25th, 2016, 13:45
Truly turning over?, or just the loud clicking, indicating dead battery.

vtraudt
February 25th, 2016, 13:58
Full turning over.
Battery (charger on to ensure) at 100% capacity.

vtraudt
February 25th, 2016, 15:25
First scan: engine codes 17652 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 8 (N86)
P1244 - 004 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

For all cylinders pretty much.

Before erasing codes, and came back right after cranking?
Ross Tech suggest: fuse for fuel injectors.

Haven't found one. Where might be located or what circuit is it sharing?

Other_Erik
February 25th, 2016, 16:24
First scan: engine codes 17652 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 8 (N86)
P1244 - 004 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

For all cylinders pretty much.

Before erasing codes, and came back right after cranking?
Ross Tech suggest: fuse for fuel injectors.

Haven't found one. Where might be located or what circuit is it sharing?

Don't have my WD's in front of me, but I believe it's in the fuse/relay panel that's under the hood, under the cowl, in a sealed black box.

Others can chime in and correct me, I'm sure

O_E

vtraudt
February 25th, 2016, 16:28
Could find no information on injector fuse.
Checked all relevant fuses, none blown.
Wanted to check fuse position 28 (fuel pump) but empty. Maybe special location for RS6 due to dual pumps?
Figured may just put a fuse in there to see if anything changes.
Car starts, no codes!

Assumption: fuse wiggled loose. Last time door closing, finally fell out?
Would tow truck driver remove fuse (never heard such thing)?
Didn't bother to remove the kickpanel in search of fuse.

Moving car outside now to give it a deep cool down. See if any symptoms (earlier reported cold start issues, car not taking gas when starting until warmed up) remain when car really cold.