1000hp engine build on which parts?

[RS8]

If you would build a 1000hp “rs6” V8 biturbo engine which parts would you change?

And Yes of course it would be with an 01E 6-speed gearbox and with 2-plate clutch like Sachs RCS200

Do you think Wagner IC’s will work for 1000hp?

Will 2x 3” free flow exhaust system all the way without cats be enough or do you think 2x 3.5” will be needed?

Fuel system I think about a fuel cell with two Walbro 450lph fuel pumps and AN10 fuel lines, bigger aluminum fuel rails and big ev14 injectors for E85.

Custom built exhaust manifold and two EFR 6758 or 7163 Turbos

Standalone ECU so you don’t need the MAF sensors anymore.
R8 coils

Make plastic spacers for intake manifold to keep it cool.

New forged conrods, but keep the old RS6 pistons.
New gaskets, piston rings etc.
Calico coated crankshaft and conrod bearings.

Supertech valves and valve springs.

Audi A8 or S8 intake camshafts.

2x Provent 150 catch cans

What more would you change or do?

And please no stupid comments!

:fastm:

[Bigglezworth]

Increase the size of the throttle body and look at options for improved oiling.

[RS8]

Do you really think the throttle body need to be bigger?

I found this now on google:
S4 - 2 7/8in
RS4 - 3 1/4in
RS6 - 3 1/2in

I have to measure my throttle body to see if it is 3.5", because then I don't see any gains on putting on a bigger one?


What do you mean about improved oiling? more flow or better oil cooling?

[LaserSVT]

Wait, so the pistons and cranks in these engines can withstand 1000 HP? Has anyone gotten close to it? That's very impressive for stock internals if it only needs better rods.

[RS8]

Remember that it is a V8 = 8 pistons.
1000hp/8 is only 125hp each.
(Many guys take out more hp on each cylinder on 4 and 5 cylinder Audis with stock pistons)

And it is better piston pin in RS6 pistons, than what other Audis have.
(thicker pin with cone in the ends)


And the crank is better hardened than other Audi V8 cranks, So 1000hp would not be a problem.

[Bigglezworth]

Do you really think the throttle body need to be bigger?

I found this now on google:
S4 - 2 7/8in
RS4 - 3 1/4in
RS6 - 3 1/2in

I have to measure my throttle body to see if it is 3.5", because then I don't see any gains on putting on a bigger one?


What do you mean about improved oiling? more flow or better oil cooling?90mm TB is decent and now that I think about it likely fine yes. I certainly wouldn't want to be less if I was pushing more air through from larger turbo's. For oiling, I would certainly look to improve oil cooling and closely consider upgraded oil delivery over OEM. OEM was designed for 450hp plus head room, so when these cars run 600hp, it's already eating in to the upper limits. Personally, I liken oiling to a foundation on a building. You don't want either to be crappy or just 'making the grade'.

[fbatwork]

My two cents - I don't think that the Wagner intercoolers would support that much power so need to do something there (I run them and still get bad heat soak in warm weather. Certainly Meth injection would help, CO2 nozzles pointed at the intercoolers can also help but that is for a limited amount of time. The other huge restriction in my mind is the front cast intake pipe that comes up the front of the engine from both intercoolers where meth nozzles are typically installed (sorry don't know the formal name)... If cash is not a concern I am sure something could be fabricated. The other option that I think would help that part flow better would be to extrude hone the part.

[RS8]

My two cents - I don't think that the Wagner intercoolers would support that much power so need to do something there (I run them and still get bad heat soak in warm weather. Certainly Meth injection would help, CO2 nozzles pointed at the intercoolers can also help but that is for a limited amount of time. The other huge restriction in my mind is the front cast intake pipe that comes up the front of the engine from both intercoolers where meth nozzles are typically installed (sorry don't know the formal name)... If cash is not a concern I am sure something could be fabricated. The other option that I think would help that part flow better would be to extrude hone the part.

I am pretty sure that your heat soak is not because your intercoolers is too small, instead is the problem that the intake manifold is attached directly on the warm engine.
On my car I have installed temp sensors on my Wagners and I can see that the outside temp is not so much colder than after the Wagners, but the temp sensor in the intake manifold shows almost double so high temperature!
And it is this heat that meth injection is helping to cool down.

On my car I have bigger aluminum fuel rails and from the beginning they were screwed directly on my intake manifold with an aluminum piece between them and because of that you would burn your fingers if you hold the fuel rails.
But then I change the aluminum to 1 cm thick plastic and now the fuel rails is as cold as the gasoline inside is.

So with plastic spacer under the intake manifold I will get away with lot of heat :0:
But you can't just put in 1 cm high spacer on your stock car because then will a lot of parts don't fit anymore, but when you are building a race engine that will not be any problem :thumb:

I am pretty sure that wagner's will work for maybe 800hp without any problem if the intake manifold also is sitting on plastic spacers, but maybe meth injection will be necessary for a 1000hp engine.

[fbatwork]

As mentioned just my two cents - I have a phenolic (plastic) spacer on one of my 3B engines and nothing on the AAN (both are in eS2's). There is a difference if you are just doing short runs but if you go for a longer drive the air temperatures are pretty much identical on both intakes. I have not bothered to measure the total volume / cooling area on the Wagners.

I am certainly interested in seeing some pictures and the final outcome as many have tried but none have really bothered with the significant work required to get to that elusive power level. Closest I think would be the 6 running dual GT 3071's in Australia...

[RS8]

One thing that affects is how open the front is = how much cold air comes in and cools the engine and the intake manifold, On S2 the water cooler is next to the engine and the intake is hanging out from the engine, so when you drive on the highway at constant speed, then the wind will chill down the intake manifold on S2.

But as you say yourself for hard driving that will not be enough so a spacer plate will help to keep the intake manifold cool.

On the RS6 is the whole front in front of the engine covered by water cooler so there is no cold air blowing over the motor or the intake manifold, instead it is the air inside the intake that will try to cool it down and that is impossible when it is located above and connected directly to the warm engine.

Here is the info about wagners.
2pcs High-performance 255mm x 230mm x 105mm Intercooler Core that flows 6158cm2 air volume vs. OEM 250mm x 205mm x 65mm, 3331cm cubic volume.
39% more intercooler face area vs. OEM 98% larger air flow vs. OEM


So plastic spacer and maybe heat treated intake manifold will make a huge difference on RS6.

[RS8]

For oiling, I would certainly look to improve oil cooling and closely consider upgraded oil delivery over OEM. OEM was designed for 450hp plus head room, so when these cars run 600hp, it's already eating in to the upper limits. Personally, I liken oiling to a foundation on a building. You don't want either to be crappy or just 'making the grade'.

I understand how your are thinking and yes water cooler and oil cooler will need to be upgraded for the extra heat.


But I don't think there is anything wrong with the RS6 oil pump, I mean the only modification you do to the oil system is a bigger oil cooler and that will not be any problem for the oil pump.


I think the main reason that Gumpert Apollo have dry sump is because they wanted to lower the engine, and with dry sump they could lower it about 3 inch.
And then of course you will also gain some extra hp with dry sump.


Something you can do to make the oil flow faster through the engine and make it cooler is to use a thinner oil for example go down to a 0W20 oil.

But to modify the oil pump, I don't think is necessary.

If you look at for example an old Audi with 5 cyl engine like S2,RS2,S4 many of them have up to 1000 hp with oem oil pump, the big problem with these engines is that oil pan can't hold the oil still, so even with 300hp you will kill the bearings if you drive hard on the track because the oil pump sucks air and the best way is of course to use dry sump but you can also rebuild the oil pan with extra baffles inside to hold the oil.


But if you look at the V8 it has a totally different oil pan with a "honeycomb" insert around the oil pipe that hold the oil still even with hard driving.


So as long the oil pump pumps oil and not air, I don't think it will be any problem even with 2000 hp.

But I agree that better water and oil cooler will be necessary.

[nubcake]

Something you can do to make the oil flow faster through the engine and make it cooler is to use a thinner oil for example go down to a 0W20 oil.

Big caveat with increasing flow by going to thinner oil is that you're also reducing oil film strength. Which just doesn't sound right in the same neighborhood with "increasing engine load". ;)

[RS8]

The oil film strength have nothing to do how thick the oil is.

Read this page:
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

THE BENEFITS OF USING THINNER OIL:

• Thinner oil flows quicker at cold start-up to begin lubricating critical engine components much more quickly than thicker oil can. Most engine wear takes place during cold start-up before oil flow can reach all the components. So, quicker flowing thinner oil will help reduce start-up engine wear, which is actually reducing wear overall.

• The more free flowing thinner oil at cold start-up, is also much less likely to cause the oil filter bypass to open up, compared to thicker oil. Of course if the bypass opened up, that would allow unfiltered oil to be pumped through the engine. The colder the ambient temperature, and the more rpm used when the engine is cold, the more important this becomes.

• Thinner oil also flows more at normal operating temperatures. And oil FLOW is lubrication, but oil pressure is NOT lubrication. Oil pressure is only a measurement of resistance to flow. Running thicker oil just to up the oil pressure is the wrong thing to do, because that only reduces oil flow/lubrication. Oil pressure in and of itself, is NOT what we are after.

• The more free flowing thinner oil will also drain back to the oil pan quicker than thicker oil. So, thinner oil can help maintain a higher oil level in the oil pan during operation, which keeps the oil pump pickup from possibly sucking air during braking and cornering.

• The old rule of thumb that we should have at least 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm is perfectly fine. Running thicker oil to achieve more pressure than that, will simply reduce oil flow for no good reason. It is best to run the thinnest oil we can, that will still maintain at least the rule of thumb oil pressure. And one of the benefits of running a high volume oil pump, is that it will allow us to enjoy all the benefits of running thinner oil, while still maintaining sufficient oil pressure. A high volume oil pump/thinner oil combo is preferred over running a standard volume oil pump/thicker oil combo. Because oil “flow” is our goal for ideal oiling, NOT simply high oil pressure.

• Oil flow is what carries heat away from internal engine components. Those engine components are DIRECTLY oil cooled, but only INdirectly water cooled. And better flowing thinner oil will keep critical engine components cooler because it carries heat away faster. If you run thicker oil than needed, you will be driving up engine component temps.

• Thinner oil will typically increase HP because of less viscous drag and reduced pumping losses, compared to thicker oils. That is why very serious Race efforts will generally use watery thin oils in their engines. But, an exception to this increase in HP would be in high rpm hydraulic lifter engines, where thinner oil can allow the lifters to bleed-off at higher rpm. In everyday street vehicles, where fuel consumption is a consideration, thinner oils will also typically increase fuel economy. The majority of new cars sold in the U.S. now call for 5W20 specifically for increased fuel economy. And now Diesel trucks are increasingly calling for 5W30, also for fuel economy improvement.

• With the exception of high rpm hydraulic lifter engines, almost no engine should ever need to run oil thicker than a multi-viscosity 30 weight. The lower the first number cold viscosity rating, the better the cold flow. For example, 0W30 flows WAY better cold than 20W50. And 0W30 flows WAY better cold than straight 30wt, which is horrible for cold start-up flow and should be avoided at all cost. And the lower the second number hot viscosity rating, the better the hot flow. For example, 0W30 flows WAY better hot than 20W50.

• Thicker oil DOES NOT automatically provide better wear protection than thinner oils. Extensive “dynamic wear testing under load” of dozens and dozens of motor oils, has shown that the base oil and its additive package “as a whole”, is what determines an oil’s wear protection capability, NOT its viscosity. For example, some 5W20 oils have proven to provide OUTSTANDING wear protection, while some 15W50 oils have only been able to provide MODEST wear protection. So, do not run thicker oil under the false assumption that it can provide better wear protection for our engines.

• BOTTOM LINE: Thinner oils are better for most engine lubrication needs.

[nubcake]

The oil film strength have nothing to do how thick the oil is.

It's not a direct relation indeed. But generally thinner weight oils have lower HTHS (high temperature high shear) viscosity, which pretty much is a measure of oil film strength. The message of the article you're quoting is not "lower is better", it's rather "oil can be TOO thick". But the opposite is also true - oil can be too thin for a given engine. Actually, all the "oil gaps" between bearings are designed around a specific oil engineers have in mind. Unless you re-engineer that, you're likely to do more harm than good by going to lower viscosity. Bottom line is - why introduce more unknown variables to proven working system?

Mind you, I'm not an expert on motor oils, but I've done a lot of reading on the subject as I was interested in "optimizing" my motor performance as well. I found the logic behind the whole "run as thin oil as you can while not hurting the engine" statement pretty solid, but there's one huge problem: you can't really know what is "too thin" until you ruin your motor first. Which is not something I'm ready to do just yet.

I know that any oil debate is a huge can of worms, so I'll try to stay out of further discussion. :)

[RS8]

Yes it is not so fun to damage the engine because of wrong oil.


But the recommended oil for Audi RS6 is 5w30 so to change to a 0w20 will not be so big step.

But of course it has to be a good quality oil.

I have used Castrol edge fst 5w30 and Mobil1 5w30 esp in my RS6 engine last years.
But I don't know what I will test next year.

[Other_Erik]

On the oil discussion -

I know how everyone here loves to hang off of BND Automotive's nutsack. I contacted them about recommended lubricants for the RS6, their blend for engine oil is a 7.5w38 for what it's worth.

Oh, and good god is Aces IV expensive! Yikes!

O_E

[SteveKen]

If I had a dime for every person actually getting 1000hp out of this engine and packaging it into the RS6..... I'd have zero dimes.

[ttboost]

^^^^ :cry:....been around a long time...haven't seen it yet...

[lswing]

Yea, but I want to know the cheap and easy way to get 1000hp, I heard on another forum that you guys just make it to complicated:idea: Kidding...

Yes, the ACES IV is a bit spendy, but does last a while, and does help performance with bad or lower octane fuel. No need if you have good fuel, or water meth, or better yet both! This is based of actually logs plus some seat of the pants feedback.

[ttboost]

Yea, but I want to know the cheap and easy way to get 1000hp.

Start with ANY other platform....:lovl:

[atikovi]

A second 4.2L in the trunk and a little tuning will get you 1000hp, I promise.

[RS8]

:lovl:

Well i'm from Sweden and maybe you know that we in Sweden and also Norway are good at building sick cars and get out a lot of hp from them :thumb:
Famous Swedish Audi cars you have for example Jon Olssons Audi RS6 and R8, but his car is more sick than high hp ;)
But there are a lot of other extreme cars built in Sweden.

I have a friend that have started building already and he have bought two EFR6758 and his RS6 engine is already assembled with forged connecting rods inside and his plan is to have the car ready for summer 2016.

And I can say that a lot of the parts in my first post I already have bought for my engine :burnout:

I also have a little extra secrets that I have not written about here ;)

Unfortunately, I have quite a lot to do with my car because I had a fire last summer on a track day so I do not know if I have time to build a 1000HP engine now during this winter.

16947


Here you can see more pictures and movies from the fire: (all text in Swedish)

http://rejsa.nu/forum/viewtopic.php?t=91718&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=2610


And I prefer to build and drive hard rather than talking shit on internet :)

.

[RS8]

I wonders what happen that day anyone show a 1000hp engine?
Will you all non believer stick your head in the sand?
Or will you argue that to much is changed on the engine?
Or will you change your mind and abruptly become an expert at 1000 hp engine building and write what have to be changed if anyone else asks about it?
:lovl:
I mean it was not many years ago no one believed it was possible to get 1000 HP out of any Audi engine and now there are both five-cylinder and V6 engines with over 1000 hp
So why should not you be able to get it out on a much larger 4.2L V8 ?
that original already have 450-480 hp and over 500 hp with only an ecu tune.

---
But I build and use my car for track racing so I do not think I will use 1000 HP, because already 800 hp will probably be enough,
So maybe I should change the title to: what is needed for a 800 hp engine that is capable for 1000 hp.
Perhaps you guys can more easily talk about an 800 hp build, without writing shit ;) or do you belive also 800hp is to much?

[ttboost]

Look, it sounds like your taking this personally, as if you are the first and only one to ever try this. You have to forgive us, some of us have been here a while and have seen many threads like yours. I don't think anyone said it is impossible, we were just pointing out that you are one of many who has started a thread shooting for the moon, only to never be heard from again. If you get 1000whp out of this car, I will be the first to give you an cyber pat on the back, publicly, right here in your thread, as well as many others here. No one is trying to sabotage your success, we are just dubious. Even if you get to 800whp, hell 600whp, I'd be impressed. Again, unless you dyno your engine on an engine dyno, I don't really care to hear your dyno numbers. But if you do, I would LOVE to hear those numbers, especially if you follow up with a chassis dyno, so we know what the REAL driveline loss is on a RS6. There is always the dyno number argument, which frankly gets old. I have been drag racing for 25+ years, show me a time slip and I will tell you how much power you're making. I want to here that you car trapped 140ish at a 1/4 mile track, then and ONLY then will I be a believer. Just food for thought, I can tell you a 4000+lb car that traps 135 is making 650-700whp on any chassis dyno. Good luck with your project, stay motivated and surprise us with your results. I for one would love to see it as I also bailed on my RS6 project.

[RS8]

No, I do not take it personally, and I know I'm not the first, but I do not understand you guys?
Have any of you even tried and what do you really know about how everything looks inside the RS6 engine? Have you even build another Audi engine with high power?
I've screwed apart many 5-cylinder engines but also two RS6 engines and both 32v and 40v A8/S8 engines and has measured and observed the differences and how everything is designed and I can't find any problem that says the RS6 engine would not last for 1000 HP.


I mean that if you wrote: I shot my engine or that engine part will not work for that power, then your contributions had helped with some sensible facts, but now you only try to stop anyone who even thinks the idea, why?

ttboost I'm talking about hp not wheel hp!
And why do you say engine dyno is the only right way, when you write WHP everywhere?
And yes my plans are engine dyno, but my friend will use chassie dyno.

I will never use my car for drag racing, but I will test 100-200km/h and my car now have done that in 6.9sec, but I hope to come down to low 5 sec.
I think a stock RS6 do 100-200km/h in 11.3sec or is it 13.1sec?


I have also read past threads, and know that there are people building but I think instead it's fun and exciting and I want to know more and will gladly give good tips,instead you with just negative posts without any facts at all?


I wrote at the beginning of the thread that I want to avoid this, and then I know other builders so I had hoped that they would write something.
(It is sad that "Milka" haven't wrote anything about his car for over 1 year?)
It started well with some opinions about the oil pump and cooling and engine oil, but then some people just have to kill the tread?


And to silence you all, I can say that there is already an Audi V8 engine that have over 1000 hp (it is rwd and have 950 whp) it is built on the old 32v V8 and of course built in Norway :)
So what do you say now? :lovl:

[SteveKen]

I only joke about this so please do not be offended.

Do not get too hung up on 1000. Just be satisfied if you get to 700 or 800 or 900 as well.

[Other_Erik]

It's a noble goal, and I hope you make it there. I don't think it's by any means impossible, since this is the same block used in the Gumpert Apollo, which the race version was rated for 850ish HP. I see from your sig that you've already gone 01E, a very good step along the way getting rid of the 5HP24 transmission, one less weak point in the system. If you do it, good on you. If you don't, it won't be any surprise to anyone due to the number of times people have posted up saying they want to build to X00 HP. I don't have any valid input on parts to use, being a relative newbie to the platform as I am, but I eagerly await seeing the build documentation and hope for an eventual 140+mph 1/4 mile trap. I think you're going to hit some snags along the way, which it sounds like you have the aptitude and attitude to overcome. Fueling, Air intake, Cooling, Oiling, all going to take some work. This isn't an overnight build by any stretch, so the question is where to start?

Block and Crank - are you going to (even mildly) stroke it? A deeper cycle giving 5% more apparent volume to the cylinder bore raises your effective displacement to 4.4L, not an insignificant jump. Balance and blueprint that crankshaft! The less torsion on that rotating mass, the more efficiently you'll be able to run it, to higher RPMs if the rest of your build will support it.

Pistons - We've already got good forged pistons, how are the connecting rods? I know you're talking some dark voodoo about what's going into the internals. How about the sealing rings?

Cams - you've got in your sig intake camshafts, good on you. How well matched are they with the valves, seats, and springs? Everything sealing up in the correct timing? How about the exhaust side of the equation? Intake air volume can only ever match exhaust air volume (more or less, depending on compression, charge temp, etc...)

Heads - I'm not saying the heads aren't very good on the RS6, but there's always room for improvement. A good port job that only smooths the airflow is better than a higher-flowing head that introduces too much turbulence in the air stream.

not often talked about are the bearings on the timing belt tensioners - those needle bearings have a ton of stress on them already, pushing over double the power is going to stress every part that much more - have you considered anything there? Possibly going to a wider belt and wider pulleys? I know there's very little room for such luxuries, but every little bit counts.

Well, that's all pretty much engine basics. You could always look for one of those elusive Audi Master Techs who's gone through the RS6 in-depth study course and pick their brain, or make nice with one of the geeks who worked for Cosworth way back when they started producing the BCY back in 1998, or try to find a member of the engineering team from Gumpert who pushed these beasts to 800+. I guess what I'm getting at, is that the general attitude on this board is "If it ain't broke, you're gonna have to fix it anyway, and it's gonna be spendy.", so it may not be the BEST place to glean the info you're looking for. You may be better served at rs246 - there's some folks there who have at least as much experience with the platform as we do here, and are more ready to blow one up for the sake of testing, since they're a dime a dozen in Europe comparatively.

Good luck, and keep us updated if you haven't already been soured on this crowd

O_E

[atikovi]

For bragging rights, 1000HP would be impressive. For practical reasons, no so much. It's a 4,000+ pound car. The difference in 0 to 60 mph times between 700-800HP and 1000HP might not be greater than a few tenths of a second. The Veyron with 1000HP takes 2.5 seconds while the latest GTR with about 650HP has the same time. Now a 2100 HP GTR might be interesting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kP2EvstuoM

[RS8]

If you read the first text in my first post so the question was:
"If YOU would build a 1000hp “rs6” V8 biturbo engine which parts would YOU change?"


I also wrote later that I probably will not use 1000 HP because already 800 hp is too much for track racing.


But if I had written instead 7-800 hp, it had probably been several who tipped off about Loba 650 and such poor parts that I am not interested in.

And about my car, If you read my sign and also if you read higher up you will see that I added a picture and even link to my building thread and then you see that I do not have a heavy RS6 without an Audi S8 with the RS6 engine and the weight now is about 3850 lb and I hope to get down to 3500pound next year, so it is not a heavy 4000+ pounds car I have. :race:

[RS8]

I found this interesting text from 2003! about RS6 on RS246.com

Audi send the internals of an S6 engine (cylinder heads, conrods, all the running gear etc) over to Cosworth, who mold the block, bore the cylinders, polish it and assemble. They then strap the turbos on and using a closed-loop induction, they test each engine on the bench (this is where the rumours of bench run-in engines come from).

As an aside, Cosworth have allegedly tested the block to 1000hp at the crank!

[lswing]

I wonders what happen that day anyone show a 1000hp engine?
Will you all non believer stick your head in the sand?
Or will you argue that to much is changed on the engine?
Or will you change your mind and abruptly become an expert at 1000 hp engine building and write what have to be changed if anyone else asks about it?
:lovl:
I mean it was not many years ago no one believed it was possible to get 1000 HP out of any Audi engine and now there are both five-cylinder and V6 engines with over 1000 hp
So why should not you be able to get it out on a much larger 4.2L V8 ?
that original already have 450-480 hp and over 500 hp with only an ecu tune.

---
But I build and use my car for track racing so I do not think I will use 1000 HP, because already 800 hp will probably be enough,
So maybe I should change the title to: what is needed for a 800 hp engine that is capable for 1000 hp.
Perhaps you guys can more easily talk about an 800 hp build, without writing shit ;) or do you belive also 800hp is to much?

I don't think anyone doubts it, we've all seen the Gumpert Apollo, seems to do fine with the power. It's just the question of how much time and money you want to spend, and whether the engine is actually in the RS6. You've got a great project sounds like!

I guess Gumpert only maxed to a measly 800 bhp:) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gumpert_Apollo#Engine

[bethridg]

I have refrained from commenting on any of the previous X hp build threads.
However, those discussions always came to the same road blocks.


1. packaging
2. reliablity
3. cost


Most people here agree the block/internals are capable of handling 7-800+ hp (see Gumpert Apollo).
But with the C5 platform you run into a real estate constraint in the engine bay (less of an issue with 01E).
Seeing as you are working with an S8 the packaging restrictions are different. So that argument might not apply.


Reliability is subjective as you are building for the track.


The major hurdle comes down to how much cash you are willing to dump into the project.
I've been guilty of letting my emotions write checks on things others would question my sanity. If you have the means go for it.


I want to make it clear that I'm excited to read about your progress and hope you reach your goal.
Unfortunately, I'm not knowedgeable enough to comment on specifics to make this happen.


Good luck!

[LaserSVT]

I wonders what happen that day anyone show a 1000hp engine?


I read this in his voice:
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/53c555b8d0ea5ec5aed0e587ad0c937f_zpsqhqetsun.jpg (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/orange92gt/media/53c555b8d0ea5ec5aed0e587ad0c937f_zpsqhqetsun.jpg.h tml)



On a serious note I look forward to the build thread on this thing. I am interested in seeing what it takes to make it.

[lswing]

http://strategie.hnonline.sk/sites/default/files/obrazky/blog/hqdefault.jpg

[Bigglezworth]

Better get in touch with this guy.

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/32202-RS6-for-sale!!!!!-Build-it-to-your-liking?highlight=

He was professing to hit these numbers with his projects - yet for some strange reason we never heard anything more...

[RS8]

Here we have a significantly rebuilt Audi V8 40v engine, I do not know if it's RS6 or A8 / S8 engine they started from, it is at least not an RS4 engine.
I would love to see the dyno papier and if it have over 1000 whp ?

http://www.htmotorworks.com/#!project-rs-x/c1vrn

[Turbowned]

What happened to the fella in Australia (or was it New Zealand?) who was building a 6MT RS6 with big turbos? Anyone still follow his thread? That seemed like the most promising effort thus far...

[ddillenger]

I just did a 6466 single turbo S4 on E85, 2.8 liter and it made 763whp. Factor in drivetrain loss of 20 percent, and that's damn near 1000hp. I don't see the barrier here.

[LaserSVT]

I just did a 6466 single turbo S4 on E85, 2.8 liter and it made 763whp. Factor in drivetrain loss of 20 percent, and that's damn near 1000hp. I don't see the barrier here.
I seem to have an issue with my trousers fitting properly.....

[ddillenger]

I seem to have an issue with my trousers fitting properly.....

I get that everytime I realize that this is my job.

lol