DRC issues?

[6172crew]

Ive been having a few issues with my RS6 and troubleshooting things one at a time.

When I picked up the car it had newer front tires but noticed it pulled to the right. Took her in for alignment and found passenger side out of spec on camber, but shouldn't be pulling that hard. Spec was 1.8, and Im at 1.9. I rotated teh tires because it felt no different after alignment and now the front end or rather the suspension seems unsettled and almost squirrel.

Now the steering wheel shows pointed left when keeping her straight and now when I hit something uneven it darts one way or the other, almost like the brakes are grabbing. Does the DRC use the brake system? I have gotten a few DRC type lights on the cluster but because I cant access the suspension in the hex-net VDSC I am unable to get any help with that. I do see some kind of suspension adaptation deal but ross-tech warns agaist doing it unless the hex net is unplugged and you have a huge parking lot to do the checks.

[mrdave]

As far as I know, our DRC is pretty "dumb" - meaning I don't think there are any codes and definitely no adaptations associated with it. It's a 100% mechanical system. Also, it's not connected to the brake system but the darting after hitting a bump is one of the signs that your DRC is shot. It conceivably could activate the traction/stability control if wheel movement is erratic enough, which might be what you're feeling.

edit:
This would be the less expensive option to fix: http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/23946-Completed-DIY-DRC-removal-swap-with-Koni-Yellow-Sports

Otherwise, use a quality coilover kit like KW v3 or PSS9s.

[Bigglezworth]

Suspension is suspension and brakes are brakes. They are not linked in any manner on this car. Also, both Camber and Caster are fixed on this car and neither can be adjusted without introduction of aftermarket adjustable control arm components. The pull left or right is entirely related to toe-in which can be adjusted. Frequently worn tires that show feathering on the inside are the result of worn tie-rods. IF you have installed lowering springs, then you can also get additional wear across the tire from outside to inside as a result of a change in upper/lower control arm geometry.

[6172crew]

Thanks mrdave, Im planning a longer trip and get some miles on it so I can see what its really doing. I live 3 miles from work and the car doesnt get much time on teh freeway. I think I have a clogged injector as well and figure the car needs a good driving.
As far as I know, our DRC is pretty "dumb" - meaning I don't think there are any codes and definitely no adaptations associated with it. It's a 100% mechanical system. Also, it's not connected to the brake system but the darting after hitting a bump is one of the signs that your DRC is shot. It conceivably could activate the traction/stability control if wheel movement is erratic enough, which might be what you're feeling.

edit:
This would be the less expensive option to fix: http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/23946-Completed-DIY-DRC-removal-swap-with-Koni-Yellow-Sports

Otherwise, use a quality coilover kit like KW v3 or PSS9s.

[6172crew]

Ive been looking at the adjustable uppers, would be nice to find a black friday deal on them.

Suspension is suspension and brakes are brakes. They are not linked in any manner on this car. Also, both Camber and Caster are fixed on this car and neither can be adjusted without introduction of aftermarket adjustable control arm components. The pull left or right is entirely related to toe-in which can be adjusted. Frequently worn tires that show feathering on the inside are the result of worn tie-rods. IF you have installed lowering springs, then you can also get additional wear across the tire from outside to inside as a result of a change in upper/lower control arm geometry.

[lswing]

Buy Koni Yellow struts for $650, use stock springs, great ride performance and height. Use Google to search the forum for extensive write-ups.

[hahnmgh63]

034 Motorsports have the adjustable uppers on sale right now. I am lowered with KWV3's (DRC in the dumpster) and still haven't had the need for the adjustable arms. Usually you get more positive camber when lowering and I'm lower than stock and still get mine set so it wears pretty evenly. A top alignment shop can get some adjustability out of it, most dealers can not.