Need your expertise. Ps pump connection driving me crazy

[Fastguy]

Ok. So I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but this is the second time I've tried to repair this and it's still leaking. Both times I cleaned everything spotless and used new crush washers. Maybe the seat at the pump is pitted or something, I don't know. But Jim Ellis doesn't list the part numbers.

http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=5583509&ukey_assembly=747107&ukey_make=1081&ukey_model=15642&ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=19009&modelYear=2003

I would like to just get a new banjo bolt, oe crush washers (whether they are aluminum or copper-the new ones I installed were aluminum but not oe). It shows these as items 15 and 14. I only see a listing for 14 (crush washer). I think I also have a very small leak at the compression crimp from the rubber to metal on line 5. So would be a good idea to do that line and washers at the same time.



I think I will need to put the car back into service position just because of access and removal of the serpentine belt. Iirc it's easiest to access the bottom bolt from below with the ad compressor removed and the top bolt from above with the headlight and upper ic pipe removed (which is an absolute b1tch if you don't remove the front y pipe).

If if I go so far as removing the whole carrier again and all the fluids I'm hoping I can find a good pump as well and just replace it too in case it's the seat of the hole at the pump. It's just driving me crazy. I want to drive this thing.

Oh, btw. Is the standard 4.2 the same setup? Would make it easier and cheaper to find these parts.

[Bigglezworth]

Bizarre. As long as you have new crush washers on both top and bottom of the fitting there should be no reason for it to not seal..

[P1054]

According to ETKA:
Power steering pump: 4D9 145 155 K
Banjo bolt for suction line from reservoir (this is part 7 in the link): N 903 579 03
Crush washers for suction line from reservoir (this is part 6 in the link): +N 013 816 5 (18mm x 24mm)
Suction line hose with ends (this is part 5 in the link): 4B3 422 887 B
Pressure line banjo bolt (this is part 15 in the link): WHT 000 507
Pressure line crush washers (this is part 14 in the link): N 013 848 7
Pressure line (this is part 13 in the link): no part number listed, per ETKA it's "not a spare part"

As for the power steering pump for the standard V8, it appears to be a different part. ETKA lists the part number as: 4D0 145 155 K

[SteveKen]

Bizarre. As long as you have new crush washers on both top and bottom of the fitting there should be no reason for it to not seal..

^^ This.

I had one weep after an install and just gave it another bit of a turn and had no issues. I use a calibrated arm, but maybe yours is over or under torqued?

[Fastguy]

all i know is that i assembled it the first time with the engine out with new washers and very clean. maybe im making a mistake but ive never torque spec'd any of my banjo bolts. i just get them nice and tight being sure not to go crazy and split the washer. never had an issue till now. I know that it was leaking before I did anything. This was the reason I even messed with it in the first place. So, I tried two sets of new washers and I still have the same issue. Each time I've used new washers that were spares and they seem to be the exact size. And.. each time after I find that it's leaking, I progressively try and tighten it. They are so tight now that I'm afraid I'll break something. My only guess is maybe there is a defect in the surface of the hose fitting or the face of the port in the pump itself. Either way, if that is the case, the pressure line attached to the steering rack won't be accessible with the engine in place.

I've ordered a new VW banjo bolt and another new set of crush washers. This time I'm using parts directly from the dealer. I sure hope this solves the issue...and this is the pressure side.

I noticed there is a slight weeping at the point where the metal is compressed onto the rubber hose...this is on the supply side from the reservoir to the pump. It should easily be replaceable with the headlight, upper intercooler pipe, and possibly the ac compressor removed. Would anyone happen to have a spare they would sell me? It's #5 as p1054 noted above (thank you for that response BTW!)

[SteveKen]

Also, you can't have any paint, coatings, etc. on the surfaces. I learned this the hard way when rebuilding my rear brakes.

I've also learned that you can't double up on the crush washers either. I didn't see that there was already one there and put another one on top of it.

[G2]

Try block sanding the washers. Most new ones are poorly finished nowadays. 1200 grit works well for new washers, or 600 to 'refresh' old ones (then 1200).

Surfaces can be Burnished to help aid sealing: Snug the banjo bolt and work back and forth a handful of times. Banjo bolts are inherently weak and should be torqued to spec; if said elbow and wrist are not "calibrated".

The Pump is the same for all C5 and D2 models: A6,A8,S6,S8

[Fastguy]

Try block sanding the washers. Most new ones are poorly finished nowadays. 1200 grit works well for new washers, or 600 to 'refresh' old ones (then 1200).

Surfaces can be Burnished to help aid sealing: Snug the banjo bolt and work back and forth a handful of times. Banjo bolts are inherently weak and should be torqued to spec; if said elbow and wrist are not "calibrated".

The Pump is the same for all C5 and D2 models: A6,A8,S6,S8

Thanks for the info. Very good procedure. I'll try this in the next go round. Good to know about the pump also. I have a 2.7 block on the shelf with a pump on it. I assumed they were different pump because of the mounting location but now I'll take a closer look.

[Fastguy]

Ok. Pulled the upper intercooler pipe (pita without removing the front bi pipe) and with extensions and needle nose pulled the banjo. Inspected the washers and they look like the were basically untouched. I noticed that the non-oe washers I used, two times now, are very hard compare to the oe washers. I couldn't even really dent the non-oe washers with the needle nose and with even the lightest pressure I noticed the oe washers would dent. Who would guess that even the type of aluminum would differ that much to make a difference.

I I followed the procure above by working the bolt back and forth a few times and used the torque wrench to give it a final wrench of 37 ft lbs I found in the Bentley manual. I sure hope this is the last time I have to mess with it.