Sheit....koni spring perch just dropped to bottom...stranded...jersey

[urs6ville]

Apologies up front, a little heated right now....but has anyone else had a problem with koni perches? Rear right. Right now the perch has a slight bend in it...car seems too heavy for spring perch....is koni only option that people have used? Never been a fan but seems that it was the best choice.

Sorry, might be more information in forum....I am on phone typing this..thinking worst case is I have to flatbed it to the same dealer that popped my hose back on and get the part for them to install. A this point less about money spent at dealer....more about blown vacation.

Thanks all.

[Bigglezworth]

This has occurred for another board member and unbeknownst to him, wore a groove into the rear drive axle that lead to axle failure. It should be noted that this can only occur if the rear perch was installed upside down. The sheer clip that sits inside the housing cannot move outwards when the rear perch is installed correctly because there is a receiving notch cut in to the perch that provides captive retention of the sheer clip.

I know that doesn't help you currently, but what 'might' help you is that the lowest perch setting on the RS6 set-up doesn't necessitate spring compressor to reduce the height of the spring in order to fasten the top hat. What that means is that if you have access to a few wrenches, you should be able to remove the strut, unbolt the top nut, remove and flip the perch, and then reinstall.

Good luck.

[urs6ville]

Anyone have a picture of correct clip orientation for reference?

[urs6ville]

quick question... if I were to get the replacement strut shipped to where I am... do I need any special tools to remove the top nut on the top perch? On some other setups I have needed a special socket to use an allen key to keep the strut from spinning while loosening/tighten the nut... or do these have a keyway or something to keep the piston spinning?

Just curious, have not had Konis before... always had Bilstein and they don't move.

Thinking I might be able to find some tools and do this, getting it quick shipped from TireRack

[urs6ville]

back on my laptop.. thanks for the reply.

quick question... if I were to get the replacement strut shipped to where I am... do I need any special tools to remove the top nut on the top perch? On some other setups I have needed a special socket to use an allen key to keep the strut from spinning while loosening/tighten the nut... or do these have a keyway or something to keep the piston spinning?

Just curious, have not does Konis before... always had Bilstein and they don't move.

Thinking I might be able to find some tools and do this, getting it quick shipped from TireRack

[Bigglezworth]

quick question... if I were to get the replacement strut shipped to where I am... do I need any special tools to remove the top nut on the top perch? On some other setups I have needed a special socket to use an allen key to keep the strut from spinning while loosening/tighten the nut... or do these have a keyway or something to keep the piston spinning?

Just curious, have not does Konis before... always had Bilstein and they don't move.

Thinking I might be able to find some tools and do this, getting it quick shipped from TireRackSorry to hear about your predicament, but do know that this particular repair can be undertaken with a number of basic tools and a couple of larger sockets. CAVEAT - you indicate your perch has collapsed. That suggests you don't have the retention C-clip that sits in the keyway cut in to the body of the damper. No matter what you do, don't waste your time doing any of the steps below if you don't have this clip as you will have no means to support the perch when placed back in the proper position. Obviously an entirely new damper will include this part so if you are going that route then these are the steps required:

- Use large 17mm allenhead socket or 27mm hex socket (IIRC might be 30mm) to remove axle bolt (depends on which style of bolt you have fastening your axle in to the wheel hub (OEM is allenhead, aftermarket joints can use either depending on manufacturer).
- Jack car up of course (wheel under side rail of car as a precaution if no jack stand)
- remove rotor that should lift out from caliper even with pads still mounted in place.
- use box/open end wrench's &/or rachet/socket (18mm) to loosen lower upper and lower control arm and to remove alignment rod and upper controll arm at wheel hub (mark the lower bolt on the alignment bar as it has an integrated cam head bolt c/w keyed washer that control the toe-in on the wheel assembly. You want to put it back to the same location when reassembling)
- Use same wrenches to remove the lower bolt that anchors the strut to the lower control arm socket.
- push drive axle out of wheel hub
- remove the two 13mm top bolts that fasten the top hat of the strut to the body of the car
- remove strut
- Damper has high strength steel for centre shaft. You can clamp a set of vice grips high up on the shaft to eliminate rotation and not leave a single mark on the shaft. YES this can be done. Remove top nut fastening shaft to top hat using 17mm socket.
- spring shouldn't require compressor clames in order be removed. I just did a Koni swap on the one ride here and the spring was loose and permitted initial fastening to shaft without compressing it. Ultimately you need to still proceed with caution on this as every car can be different. Easy to loosen off the top nut readily judge if the spring will still have pressure on it once the nut is removed. It's not going to kill you if you keep removing the nut and 'might' have a small pop as the nut comes off. Again, I believe this to be non-existent based upon what I just experienced as I could remove and reattach the aluminum top hat easily without using a spring compressor.
- pull off top hat c/w integral dust boot, remove spring, remove bottom spring seat c/w integral rubber grommet that fits snug around the body of the damper, and then lift off the perch.
- flip perch and reassemble

[lswing]

About 10-20 people running the Koni Yellows it seems. 5-30k miles driven by now maybe. Have yet to hear of this issue. I sure wondered how that little clip held up the spring pressure, but heard it's the dynamics of it.

There are two models of the Yellows, one heavier than the other IIRC. Maybe a bad one or bad install. They are cheap, but simple too.

[4.2Crew]

It should be noted that this can only occur if the rear perch was installed upside down. The sheer clip that sits inside the housing cannot move outwards when the rear perch is installed correctly because there is a receiving notch cut in to the perch that provides captive retention of the sheer clip.


Yup. The importance of correct orientation of the spring perch cannot be stressed enough.... If the perch is incorrectly position upside-down, it's only be a matter of time (or miles) before the retaining clip wiggles out and eventually shears downward.

[urs6ville]

Thanks everyone.

Yes, assume the clip is gone. I have to check the orientation of the perch/clip... was installed by previous owner who is pretty detail oriented, and he watched the master tech at his audi dealer do it, so while I know that doesn't guarantee anything, I will check when I get done getting the parts ordered. I am getting the Koni shipped to me (though waiting for sales tech @ Tirerack to confirm that the strut listed "82-2526SPORT" comes with the perch and clamp... assume it does, but I don't want to do this more than once)

I have access to enough tools to give it a go.

[Bigglezworth]

I am getting the Koni shipped to me (though waiting for sales tech @ Tirerack to confirm that the strut listed "82-2526SPORT" comes with the perch and clamp... assume it does, but I don't want to do this more than once)It comes with a new perch, retaining clip, damper, and top nut. You need to reuse your top hat (which on the rear includes an integraged dust boot), and all fastening hardware. Good luck on things. Remember to ensure the keyway on the perch is facing down and locks the clip in place.... :)

[urs6ville]

All fixed and back home. I have the old strut and I have to say, not sure how you would put the perch on upside down.... when you say that, do you mean that the perch itself is upside down. I am going to take a few pics of the old part... the clip is still there.. just looks like it popped.. appears that everything was installed correctly.. but to be honest.. I am a bit sleep deprived... so once I get caught up at home I will take a closer look, post pictures/etc.

Thanks again for all the help/advice/BTDT's.

[Bigglezworth]

So as to wrap this thread up, here are supporting photos of what is outlined above.


Photo showing the underside of the perch that is to face towards the ground
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Photo of the perch containing the shear clip on the body of the damper
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