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midwest1275
August 19th, 2015, 18:24
I brought my RS6 into a local indy shop for a quick look over and found a few things going on. The valve cover gaskets, cam adjuster seals, and the right CV boot were all on there way out. The shop owner said that because I drive my car such low miles per year (around 5000) I should be ok w/ valve cover and cam seals for a while, just do the CV boot right away. I checked with the extended warranty (Zurich) and they are actually going to do all of that for a $100 deductible. I was unsure of getting the extended warranty (3 year for $5500) but I think it is going to pay off. The car has 57k on it and is in excellent condition. So my question is, while they have it apart are there any other maintenance items that I should have them take care of pro-actively? I don't think it's an engine pull to do the cam seals but maybe. Also, the intercoolers were pretty loaded with oil so they are going to clean and pressure test. Is there a definitive way to know whether your intercoolers are leaking? Is the oil build up pretty common on these cars?

Thanks

Fastguy
August 19th, 2015, 19:16
From what I've been told, some amount of oil is expected as it gets past the turbos. I am going to pressure test my newly cored ic's just because. They are on the bench and it's easy. I already have a rubber coupling with a test plug installed from using on my 2.7. Just cap one side, clamp the coupling on, fill with air. If you want to check for even the most minute leak,
submerge it in a tub of water while pressurized. Word of warning; point the cap away from your face. If for some reason it doesn't hold, even at only 30 psi, it will fly across the room with some pretty good force. Don't ask me how I know this.

Bigglezworth
August 19th, 2015, 20:44
The oil that builds up in the intake system (usually settling in the bottom hose off the intercoolers) is largely the result of crankcase ventilation - not blow-by of your turbo's.

nubcake
August 19th, 2015, 21:53
Speaking of oil build up in the intake - is there a known and proved way of dealing with this? Separator? Catch can? How to plumb?
My RS6 is ingesting quite a lot of oil (but I'm running up to ~1.8bar boost) and I'd love to fix this. :)

Bigglezworth
August 19th, 2015, 22:47
Speaking of oil build up in the intake - is there a known and proved way of dealing with this? Separator? Catch can? How to plumb?
My RS6 is ingesting quite a lot of oil (but I'm running up to ~1.8bar boost) and I'd love to fix this. :)Safe to assume you're not running OEM K04 turbos then with that amount of boost? The K04's fall off drastically after 18psi. Catch can's work in lieu of the PVC valving. Ingesting a lot of oil is not directly proportional to oil in the intake system. You have mentioned nothing about mileage, nothing about compression values, etc. Worn rings, worn guides, etc., can lead to additional oil 'consumption'. These Cosworth hand assembled engines have extremely tight tolerances and I can attest to them still having solid compression to over 200K. Outside of having a passenger turbo melt down and blow it's seal as a result, the only oil loss came from leaks at valve covers and cam seals.

nubcake
August 19th, 2015, 23:00
Running locally made hybrids, yep.
I'll do a detailed post describing my car at some point. Currently it's a work-in-progress-never-ending project. :)

Odometer shows 120k kilometers, but engine has been opened up, re-ringed with Goetze AFAIK. Never got to measuring compression, but will do, time permitting.
I guess, it's mostly wishful thinking - that motor is in good shape and the whole problem will go away once I fix the ventilation.
EDIT: The reason for "opening up" the engine was machining the pistons to lower compression, not some breakdown. Re-ringing was done as a "preventive maintenance".

Anyways, what you mean is - I can just replace those PCV "mushrooms" with catch cans? Isn't it more logical to keep the PCV and install cans after (or before?) them?
Not trying to be a smart ass, just trying to see the reasoning. :)

Thanks!

lswing
August 19th, 2015, 23:35
Maybe swap the pads of the cam adjusters, but it will add on time. $40 part, and mine failed horribly at 97k miles, costing $3k. Look at my sig below for the website link with more info.

midwest1275
August 22nd, 2015, 08:10
I got the car back today. They finished the job in 2 partial days. They replaced the valve cover gasket, cam adjuster seals, cam plug, cam seal, half moon seal, cleaned/greased/rebooted rt frt CV joint, fixed a sticky driver door, fixed loose front sway bar, and cleaned/pressure tested intercoolers (they're good). Total for work was $3,855. I only paid $160 for deductible and shop supplies. Rent a car was covered too. This car is slowly getting dialed in and major service items are getting checked off. This warranty has really good transmission/TC coverage so WHEN that goes that will be fresh. There were a lot of other things (front brakes, vacuum leaks, spark plugs, alignment, rear trunk hinges bad) that I did recently for a car that "need nothing" according to the dealer (Minneapolis Audi). Ha! I knew a rainy day fund socked away was going to be necessary with this car. Still loving it tho.