Injuries from moving, front bumper question

[lswing]

So my car arrived a dirty mess and the insurance claim is being filed. $1,500 damage front bumper and side, clear coat scraped in areas. Truck driver was a complete ass, and I've been pursuing this within the company, so we will straighten the situation out and they should cover damages.

Question. Any tips on removing the front bumper compared to say an A4? I know there is extra stuff to deal with, but the body shop here hasn't handled one of these although they seem like a good group. I'm tempted to just have a local Audi mechanic that has worked on RS6's pull it if there is anything to look for that could be tough, like stripping my headlight bolts. Thanks!

166211662216623

[nubcake]

Front bumper:
Take out fog lights mesh grille, screw out 2 long H6 bolts (1 each side).
5 (IIRC?) splash guard screws.
6 (3 each side) 10mm nuts near intercoolers, inner side of the fender. (You will have to take off front wheels and liners).
Pull the "wheel" side of the bumper outwards.
That's pretty much it.

EDIT: There's no need to touch headlights at all.
EDIT2: Having a second person disconnect wiring/tubing once the cover is off = very nice. :)

[lswing]

Sounds good to me, thanks!

[kruat]

That sucks, all that was done by the trucker?

[lswing]

Yep. Basically reckless loading and unloading I assume. Car had all types of dirt/sand tracked in. I'll post more info once it gets settled. At least my mileage didn't move and nothing else seems broken. Clear coat scratches on the roof and rear are odd, maybe it was covered for part of the journey. Was dirtier after a week of transit than me driving for 6 weeks.

[hahnmgh63]

Did I miss something? Back in Oregon?

[Bigglezworth]

Front bumper:
Take out fog lights mesh grille, screw out 2 long H6 bolts (1 each side).
5 (IIRC?) splash guard screws.
6 (3 each side) 10mm nuts near intercoolers, inner side of the fender. (You will have to take off front wheels and liners).
Pull the "wheel" side of the bumper outwards.
That's pretty much it.

EDIT: There's no need to touch headlights at all.
EDIT2: Having a second person disconnect wiring/tubing once the cover is off = very nice. :)
This all with the added:
17 screws on front passenger size and 13 on the front drivers side in order to make the front portions of each inner fender well move more readily out of the way to get your ratchet extension and hands in to remove the three 10mm nuts on each side. You also need to of course remove the inspection pan as there are 4 fasteners on the front that tie it to the lower part of the bumper skin. The bumper pressure clips in to place where it meets the fenders and you want to simply rotate down on the skin as you move the top outwards to as to detach from the clip. Pulling up from the bottom will frustrate you and potentially damage the clip.

Once you do that, remember you need to remove the electrical to each fog light (easier to access once the skin is removed slightly), remove the electrical for the horns (tag these so they are easy to spot from the fog light tethers as they both have the 'same looking' coupler and similar tether length - easy to confuse when reassembling), and finally you will need either; a) a clean bucket to catch the windshield washer fluid that will drain out to the headlight sprayers since you need to decouple the fluid line, or; b) use a set of vice grips to clamp the hose and then insert a PVC (or bolt if you have handy) in to the end of the hose to prevent excess fluid loss.

THEN, you can consider it ready for removal.... :)

Reassembly is the reverse with some added time spent ensuring the alignment and proper overlap of the bumper/intercooler ducts. Easy to get the rubber flaps caught up and binding on the bumper skin which makes final bolt up a fuss.

[DHall1]

Dang that sucks. You move again?

Next time pay alittle more for DAS enclosed. Open carrier 2 level is nothing but trouble for a lowered RS6.

Or buy a trailer.

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s532/03RSTT/Mobile%20Uploads/image1-12_zpsgdbmncd7.jpg

[Gentleman]

Call me. I'll just drive it for you. Fly me to point A, I'll drive to point B. Fly me home. Cover gas food and lodging.
Pill consider it an honor and a vacation :)

[lswing]

Yep, upstate NY this time, did it just for the 93 pump gas:) Better be good...

Did DAS closed last time, was fine...this time open.

[lswing]

This all with the added:
17 screws on front passenger size and 13 on the front drivers side in order to make the front portions of each inner fender well move more readily out of the way to get your ratchet extension and hands in to remove the three 10mm nuts on each side. You also need to of course remove the inspection pan as there are 4 fasteners on the front that tie it to the lower part of the bumper skin. The bumper pressure clips in to place where it meets the fenders and you want to simply rotate down on the skin as you move the top outwards to as to detach from the clip. Pulling up from the bottom will frustrate you and potentially damage the clip.

Once you do that, remember you need to remove the electrical to each fog light (easier to access once the skin is removed slightly), remove the electrical for the horns (tag these so they are easy to spot from the fog light tethers as they both have the 'same looking' coupler and similar tether length - easy to confuse when reassembling), and finally you will need either; a) a clean bucket to catch the windshield washer fluid that will drain out to the headlight sprayers since you need to decouple the fluid line, or; b) use a set of vice grips to clamp the hose and then insert a PVC (or bolt if you have handy) in to the end of the hose to prevent excess fluid loss.

THEN, you can consider it ready for removal.... :)

Reassembly is the reverse with some added time spent ensuring the alignment and proper overlap of the bumper/intercooler ducts. Easy to get the rubber flaps caught up and binding on the bumper skin which makes final bolt up a fuss.

Much appreciated! So...roll the dice on the body shop or shop that's worked on an RS6? Rocker/side skirt to be fixed also. Leaning towards mechanic removal...

[lswing]

Claim paid, $1,200, damage to be fixed soon. I still have to shell out $250 deductible.

Open trailer was $1,300...closed and safe like last year would have been $2,000.

So I paid $700 less but now have to run around and hope the paint comes out perfect. And get all the clear coat scratches out.

Don't risk open trailer no matter the company I would say, just eat the up front cost.

[lswing]

Oh yes, 91 octane pure gas 0% ethanol just down the street, $3.29 per gallon. 93 octane with 10% all around town for $2.90 per gallon. I'm going to assume that even with two less octane, the lack of ethanol will allow the 91 a better burn.

[Other_Erik]

Oh yes, 91 octane pure gas 0% ethanol just down the street, $3.29 per gallon. 93 octane with 10% all around town for $2.90 per gallon. I'm going to assume that even with two less octane, the lack of ethanol will allow the 91 a better burn.

Your assumption is correct for scientific reasons that I've posted in a super-long format before, but will summarize thus:

Ethanol, with its lower energy concentration per unit of measurement, will force your car to push more gas into the cylinder for combustion, but due to the higher release of free Oxygen pairs, will make your oxygen sensors tell the car that it's running leaner than if you use pure gas.

Long story short, Ethanol bad, pure gas good.

*caveman grunt*

[mrdave]

Dear god please do not use DAS.

Ha, looks like their reviews were so bad they recently hired a PR firm or online image consultant or something. Notice the most recent reviews vs the ones older than a couple months.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Dependable+Auto+Shippers+Inc,+3020+U.S.+8 0+Frontage+Rd,+Mesquite,+TX+75149&ludocid=17143877666508185853#lrd=0x864ea41515cd96d f:0xedeb49e7d0f920fd,1

[lswing]

Dear god please do not use DAS.

Ha, looks like their reviews were so bad they recently hired a PR firm or online image consultant or something. Notice the most recent reviews vs the ones older than a couple months.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Dependable+Auto+Shippers+Inc,+3020+U.S.+8 0+Frontage+Rd,+Mesquite,+TX+75149&ludocid=17143877666508185853#lrd=0x864ea41515cd96d f:0xedeb49e7d0f920fd,1

This is my third time using DAS. Mixed, but overall decent. I first looked for reviews a few years ago, so maybe things have gotten worse. I can tell you they didn't give a sh#t about my RS6 this time, although the GLK350 made it being a dirty but undamaged mess.

1st time - Shipped ACURA across country, recipient seemed happy, open carrier.

2nd time - Shipped RS6 covered to TX from OR, perfect. Shipped GLK350 open, damaged front bumper, claim filed and fixed, $250 out of my pocket.

3rd time (and probably last) - RS6 and GLK350 together on open trailer. Both had a bunch of dirt/debris tracked into them. We think someone hungout and ate lunch in the GLK since it smelled like pizza. Full interior detail needed on both cars, along with serious outside wash. RS6 damage as above, $250 more out of my pocket.

No more shipping for a long time I hope...although covered was perfect, it's just expensive.

[lswing]

Your assumption is correct for scientific reasons that I've posted in a super-long format before, but will summarize thus:

Ethanol, with its lower energy concentration per unit of measurement, will force your car to push more gas into the cylinder for combustion, but due to the higher release of free Oxygen pairs, will make your oxygen sensors tell the car that it's running leaner than if you use pure gas.

Long story short, Ethanol bad, pure gas good.

*caveman grunt*

Gas makes fire and power, grunt, ethanol should stay in corn, grunt...thanks for the input!

[Bigglezworth]

This is my third time using DAS. Mixed, but overall decent. I first looked for reviews a few years ago, so maybe things have gotten worse. I can tell you they didn't give a sh#t about my RS6 this time, although the GLK350 made it being a dirty but undamaged mess.

1st time - Shipped ACURA across country, recipient seemed happy, open carrier.

2nd time - Shipped RS6 covered to TX from OR, perfect. Shipped GLK350 open, damaged front bumper, claim filed and fixed, $250 out of my pocket.

3rd time (and probably last) - RS6 and GLK350 together on open trailer. Both had a bunch of dirt/debris tracked into them. We think someone hungout and ate lunch in the GLK since it smelled like pizza. Full interior detail needed on both cars, along with serious outside wash. RS6 damage as above, $250 more out of my pocket.

No more shipping for a long time I hope...although covered was perfect, it's just expensive.

DAS doesn't own any of their carriers. All carriers are private contractors that transport scheduled pick-ups based upon a posting system - similar if you were hunting for a job or looking for a dorm room on campus. These carriers are nothing more than a scheduling business that acts as a 'shell' to a network of private owners. You have found out the hard way that using the same carrier doesn't guarantee the same level of service. Glad you at least got things sorted out without it taking tooo long or having to involve a 3rd party.

I have used DAS twice for two of the rides and another pair of carriers for two others. For the 5th car I imported I actually flew all the way down to Houston, and drove the car all the way back to Calgary. It was 2/3 the price of transporting including all my airfare, gas, food, and accomodations. Just needed to lose myself to 3 days of solid driving which was just fine for me as I was importing a nice little 2 seater convertible during the late summer. The drive was nice all in all.

[Aronis]

Sorry to see that damage! Now TWO PEOPLE need a bumper cover! Dam...

I keep putting off getting an estimate on a repair of mine, if possible. Was going to pull mine off in my garage this week, but procrastinating. I rather not put the whole car in the hands of the 'body shop' since a hard drive by an unknown could lead to a dead transmission. :)

Mike