Can anyone hear confirm that the crank position sensor for a six speed conversion

[UrS6]

Is from a 2.7t? Also how do you reach it?

[bethridg]

Yes 2.7T CPS (06A906433C). I don't know what kind of access you will have with engine/trans in car yet though.

http://i.imgur.com/eQvTCGzh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/an35GhY.jpg

[ttboost]

Yeah, gonna be a bear in the car, with turbo in the way. You can try going in through the drivers side wheel well, but likely the turbo is in the way. Have to try going in from underneath, with DP out?.

[UrS6]

Yeah, gonna be a bear in the car, with turbo in the way. You can try going in through the drivers side wheel well, but likely the turbo is in the way. Have to try going in from underneath, with DP out?.
Gonna suck

[Fastguy]

Gonna suck

just put in a new one yesterday. thought the same thing as I was assembling; wow, this is gonna be a bitch if I have to replace with engine in car. really tight spot behind right turbo.

[ttboost]

Can barely see it with engine out/turbo on/DP off.


http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k275/mrvetten/RS6/Engine-%20rear%20view%20-%20no%20downpipes_zpsqums8lkx.jpg (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/mrvetten/media/RS6/Engine-%20rear%20view%20-%20no%20downpipes_zpsqums8lkx.jpg.html)


http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k275/mrvetten/RS6/Left%20Side%20turbo%201_zpspbeh4jri.jpg (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/mrvetten/media/RS6/Left%20Side%20turbo%201_zpspbeh4jri.jpg.html)

[UrS6]

just put in a new one yesterday. thought the same thing as I was assembling; wow, this is gonna be a bitch if I have to replace with engine in car. really tight spot behind right turbo.
Got some tips? Gotta do a new radiator too.

edit: ah, your motor was out

[UrS6]

Maybe I'll just bring it to a shop and let them figure it out.

[ttboost]

I think it can probably be done, blind, if you can fit your arm up in there and feel around...

[ttboost]

Maybe I'll just bring it to a shop and let them figure it out.

Not the most cost effective, but definitely the easiest...

[nubcake]

I re-used the stock (auto) one, just used an appropriate spacer.

[SteveKen]

On the 01E, the crank sensor is about 36 degrees clockwise from where the automatic one is. It's not easy to get to at all.

If yours has failed it might be due to improper routing or protection of the cable since it can get very hot or even touch the turbo.

I've go mine wrapped with the stock heat shield sleeve that I'm pretty sure that is used to protect the slushbox one.

Good luck. I'm hoping that you exhausted all the other potential issues like the connector, etc. before deciding to remove/replace it.

[UrS6]

On the 01E, the crank sensor is about 36 degrees clockwise from where the automatic one is. It's not easy to get to at all.

If yours has failed it might be due to improper routing or protection of the cable since it can get very hot or even touch the turbo.

I've go mine wrapped with the stock heat shield sleeve that I'm pretty sure that is used to protect the slushbox one.

Good luck. I'm hoping that you exhausted all the other potential issues like the connector, etc. before deciding to remove/replace it.
It works when the car is cool and fails when hot. Like clockwork. As I understand it that's a classic sign of failure of the head of it.

[SteveKen]

Can you tell if your cable is insulated? If not, maybe this will help.

[UrS6]

OK. Here's how you do it. Let me preface it by saying that it absolutely sucked and it will be easier if you have small hands. I can palm a basketball easily so it wasn't a good time for me. Remove the inside CV joint bolts on the front left axle. Slide it rearward as far as it will go. Attach a 10 mm wobbly socket (with some goo in it to hold the bolt) onto a 6 inch long flexible quarter inch drive extension. Slide that up between the transmission and over the top of the center section of the turbo. On the outboard side of the turbo attach a quarter inch drive flex head ratchet. Use a pair of hose pliers to reach up and hold the socket as you would with your fingers. I could not get my hand up there far enough to hold it. Use the hose pliers to put the socket on the head of the bolt. The hose pliers were essential to me in order to keep the socket from coming off of the bolt. The rest should be self-explanatory. It took me about six hours to get it out. But I had used every combination of positions and tools I could find. Once I finally got the right combination of tools it was probably about an hour in and out if I had to start all over with the car on the ground.

[ttboost]

Somewhere an Audi engineer is relaxing with a beer, laughing his a$$ off reading this...