Another 01E conversion [Archive] - RS6.com

bethridg

July 8th, 2015, 22:55

After months of collecting the major pieces needed to do the conversion I started the project 2 weeks ago.

Things to do:

* AMD 6-speed tune
* SAI delete
* Pre-cat gut and replace worn flex joints or replace downpipes
* MAF seals
* Cam tensioner pads / seals / valve cover gaskets
* Cam position sensors (?)
* Timing belt service
* Crank seals
* Fuel filter (bought last year but bracket bolt just spins)
* Bufkin pipe
* JHM solid shift linkage
* Voltage regulator (?)
* Turbos rebuilt
* Coolant temp sensor
* Relocate boost gauge to glove box
* 02 sensors (?)
* EGTs (? trying to avoid replacing)
* Remove secondary radiators (?)
* Intercoolers (?)

On to the pictures!

Upgraded 01E TDI kit from Advanced Automotion with SteveKen adapter.

http://i.imgur.com/KimiKO0h.jpg

AMD Spec 3 Plus clutch/pressure plate.

http://i.imgur.com/JC5BFFgh.jpg

Cleared out some room in the garage and backed the Beast in.

http://i.imgur.com/ZNnhOyTh.jpg

I could almost remove the front-end blind folded. Almost.

http://i.imgur.com/AgD5Bvxh.jpg

I did the JB weld "fix" on the intercoolers and pressure tested underwater around this time last year. But sadly they are definitely leaking again. Replacements might be coming soon.

http://i.imgur.com/uBqDZMGh.jpg

The only major hang-up I had was removing the starter cables. Just enough room to get a box end wrench and make 1/8th of a turn each time. Wish I would have picked up some long angled needle nose pliers like suggested on other threads for the clip.

http://i.imgur.com/jUgtSYLh.jpg

Around 20 hours total and it was ready to come out. It will go a lot faster if I have to do it again.

http://i.imgur.com/sXu0gADh.jpg

The 5-Tip is massive. The leak that I thought was coming from the driver side turbo seems to be from the inner CV joint flange area. The output seal was leaking also.

http://i.imgur.com/cJ0Y1oFh.jpg

Needs a little de-greaser from when the passenger valve cover was leaking but otherwise surprisingly clean.

http://i.imgur.com/vR6HU0sh.jpg

It took the better part of a morning to separate the trans. Passenger turbo and header removed to gain access to starter / torque converter bolts.

http://i.imgur.com/8Rkf9llh.jpg

Flex plate bolts are crazy tight; like everyone else seems to have experienced. I snapped my M10 triple square socket while trying to loosen things up with the acetylene torch. This is on hold until the impact triple square sockets arrive.

http://i.imgur.com/8bf56aXh.jpg

I don't have any reason to believe the turbos are not original. No records of them being replaced. And with just over 101k miles now they look outstanding. No excessive shaft play.

http://i.imgur.com/BulqWxlh.jpg

The only blemish I can see is on the compressor side of the passenger turbo. There are two of these circles and it looks like one of the fin edges is chewed up slightly. If something went thru there it's probably stuck in the intercooler. The plan is to have them sent away and rebuilt while they are out anyway.

http://i.imgur.com/PUlwSoYh.jpg

Also spent a few evenings working on the shift bezel. I sourced up a manual bezel from a '99 A4 with chrome trim, a gaiter from a '99 S4 and a cheap knob for an A3. Not super happy with the knob but it will do until I find the RS4 or similar knob that I want.

http://i.imgur.com/FsQXYUDh.jpg

Dmb408

July 8th, 2015, 23:01

wow, you guys amaze me

Bigglezworth

July 9th, 2015, 00:11

Good on ya. 20hrs is more than reasonable if you aren't a long time wrencher. The job can be done in under 7 hrs for one person once you've done it a couple of times. I personally wouldn't change out either the O2's or the EGT's. I would also look to swap out the two large O-rings for the coolant bypass pipe simply because they are only a few dollars and easy to swap both out in 5 minutes while you have full acces to the rear of the engine. Finally, I would would pop off the voltage regulator for the starter and confirm what the wear is on the stator. Likely doing just fine. Up to you if the additoinal $75-80 for a new regulator is worth it while you have easier access to the alternator. Replacing a bunch of items can quickly get the better of you time and money wise.

The removal of the 5Tip for the 6MT will improve your ability to access both from below without having to remove the engine in the future should the need arise (will just need to lower cradle a bit) as you have improved clearance around a smaller belhousing. The one thing I would however recommend you do while you have this out is to relocate/replace your Suction Jet Pump (SJP) like I did recently.

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/32078-Arg-Rough-idle/page2

Enjoy.

kruat

July 9th, 2015, 03:52

I'm jelous...one day I'll drop a 01e in my rs.

hahnmgh63

July 9th, 2015, 04:10

bethridg, looks familiar. I received the same pallet from Scotty a couple of months ago. Haven't gotten my clutch yet but trying to decide between the AMD Stg 3+ you got or the Stg 4. Also going to do the AMD tune since they're just up the road from me. Did most of the things you listed a couple of years (and only 10K) ago when I installed my rebuilt 517 tranny and Milltek Catless downpipes. I did every seal and sensor plus the Bufkin pipe.

s8prtotype

July 9th, 2015, 06:24

Awesome, keep the pics coming!

Other_Erik

July 9th, 2015, 14:24

After months of collecting the major pieces needed to do the conversion I started the project 2 weeks ago.

Things to do:

* Pre-cat gut and replace worn flex joints or replace downpipes
* Voltage regulator (?)
* Turbos rebuilt
* Coolant temp sensor
* 02 sensors (?)
* EGTs (? trying to avoid replacing)
* Remove secondary radiators (?)
* Intercoolers (?)

above edited for brevity

Addressing one by one - if you're going to gut the pre-cats, Wait for your front Oxygen sensors to go bad before replacing. They're going to absorb impacts from microscopic bits of those pre-cats being tossed down the exhaust and eventually go bad from it anyway. If you think it's time to replace the rear sensors, go for it.

So I've had an issue with my alternator, bought a replacement that worked for about an hour. If you're interested, I can have that replacement rebuilt and sent to you once I get my rebuilt original back and reinstalled. Rebuild cost runs ~$220 + shipping, much better than the $974 list price Audi has for a new Alternator that they don't even stock anymore... Would ask $500 total or $250 + your old alternator in return if you're interested. Either way I go, I want to have a known good unit on the shelf for the next time I get zero voltage coming out of the alternator (have been without the beast 4 weeks so far between finding a replacement in stock and now having to immediately rebuild it).

From looking at the turbos, I doubt you need rebuilt - the biggest indicator would be excessive shaft play. Maybe deburr the fin that got chipped up, otherwise looks okay to me.
Side note/thought - since you're going 6sp, you now have room for bigger turbos. If you're still bent on rebuild, replace with more HP!

Coolant temp sensor is dead easy/simple. Plenty of instructionals on replacing that. Just make sure you don't lose the stupid plastic clip used to hold it in.

EGTs - are you getting codes? If so, have you tried the re-soldering trick? I did the solder on mine, and they were good for another 18 months, but now it's time to replace. Not looking forward to the $500 in parts and $godonlyknows in labor - at least you're saving on the labor piece.

Why would you want to remove secondary radiators (besides simplified plumbing)? Just because you're going manual doesn't mean you can ignore transmission fluid temp. Just sayin'

If your IC's are leaking, save yourself time and frustration - go Wagner IC kit and forget about it for at least 3 years. In the grand scheme of this build, $2500 is chump change.

O_E

bethridg

July 9th, 2015, 14:59

Replacing a bunch of items can quickly get the better of you time and money wise.

Truth. I was debating removing the intake to check the state of things. I'll add the o-rings to my list and mull over the SJP. Thanks.

bethridg

July 9th, 2015, 15:55

So I've had an issue with my alternator, bought a replacement that worked for about an hour. If you're interested, I can have that replacement rebuilt and sent to you once I get my rebuilt original back and reinstalled. Rebuild cost runs ~$220 + shipping, much better than the $974 list price Audi has for a new Alternator that they don't even stock anymore... Would ask $500 total or $250 + your old alternator in return if you're interested. Either way I go, I want to have a known good unit on the shelf for the next time I get zero voltage coming out of the alternator (have been without the beast 4 weeks so far between finding a replacement in stock and now having to immediately rebuild it).

I've had zero problems with the charging system. But read that a few of you guys have. This falls into the category of "while I have access". Thanks for the offer.

Side note/thought - since you're going 6sp, you now have room for bigger turbos. If you're still bent on rebuild, replace with more HP!

I've read all the "big turbo" threads. I think the only one that went anywhere so far was Milka and haven't seen any updates here or on the other forums in a year. Probably a pipe dream. Just dial it in and enjoy. However, w/m kit is still in the long term plans.

EGTs - are you getting codes? If so, have you tried the re-soldering trick? I did the solder on mine, and they were good for another 18 months, but now it's time to replace. Not looking forward to the $500 in parts and $godonlyknows in labor - at least you're saving on the labor piece.

No codes. Insulation on the passenger side sensor wire is a little frayed. For such a small item it has a pretty big price tag. Trying to avoid.

Why would you want to remove secondary radiators (besides simplified plumbing)? Just because you're going manual doesn't mean you can ignore transmission fluid temp. Just sayin'

Still debating this; yes to simplify but also to get that heat away from the intercoolers. Pretty sure this has been discussed before but don't remember the consensus. Probably all in my head.

If your IC's are leaking, save yourself time and frustration - go Wagner IC kit and forget about it for at least 3 years. In the grand scheme of this build, $2500 is chump change.

You're right. At minimum, I'd like to replace the boost hoses/clamps but haven't found a good online source for the Venair kit. And the Wag kit includes a set of hoses and trick CF shrouds. Plus the grills, since I'm not running fog lamps anymore, would clean the front end up.

bethridg

July 9th, 2015, 16:21

Pedal assembly went in last night. But I have to take it all apart again because I forgot to swap over the starter inhibitor switch from the donor.

Anyone know of a source for the clutch pivot bushing? The closest part number I could come up with is 171721153C and it's discontinued. There's a seller on ebay that has a ton of NOS listings but he's located in Greece.

http://i.imgur.com/WfnUFB0h.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/yeWTZAUh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ARbPY5Kh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/gizk14Fh.jpg

Other_Erik

July 9th, 2015, 16:47

I've had zero problems with the charging system. But read that a few of you guys have. This falls into the category of "while I have access". Thanks for the offer.

I've read all the "big turbo" threads. I think the only one that went anywhere so far was Milka and haven't seen any updates here or on the other forums in a year. Probably a pipe dream. Just dial it in and enjoy. However, w/m kit is still in the long term plans.

No codes. Insulation on the passenger side sensor wire is a little frayed. For such a small item it has a pretty big price tag. Trying to avoid.

Still debating this; yes to simplify but also to get that heat away from the intercoolers. Pretty sure this has been discussed before but don't remember the consensus. Probably all in my head.

You're right. At minimum, I'd like to replace the boost hoses/clamps but haven't found a good online source for the Venair kit. And the Wag kit includes a set of hoses and trick CF shrouds. Plus the grills, since I'm not running fog lamps anymore, would clean the front end up.

No worries. EGT Sensors are another "While you have access" item like the alternator/regulator. If you're worried on the regulator, you can grab one on Amazon for $35 (which saved me $75 when it came to rebuild time)

I wouldn't call big turbos necessarily a pipe dream, but I do get what you're saying - not to mention that at that point you'd also be looking at heavier duty injectors, etc...

IIRC, the general consensus was that the heat coming from the aux rads is minimal/nominal in the grand scheme of things, and if you're thinking of W/M or even just an IC Spray kit, you're more than over-compensating.

Again on the IC's - the kit is pretty swag, and you get better overall cooling over those larger cores, and you're going no-fog, and and and and and.... just makes sense to me to go Wag's, wishing I had the necessary cashola free but now it's time to buy a house (yay!, I think?) so everything's going into down payment on that once the beast is running.

Good luck with the build! Hope you don't end up loving it so much you sell it off after the first thousand miles like 9/10 seem to do.

O_E

bethridg

July 9th, 2015, 17:04

wishing I had the necessary cashola free

Benefits of being single, working from home and no debt (aside from the mortgage). Also moderate cost of living in the Midwest. Bought my house 3 years ago; one of the best decisions I've ever made.

Turbowned

July 9th, 2015, 18:30

Benefits of being single, working from home and no debt (aside from the mortgage). Also moderate cost of living in the Midwest. Bought my house 3 years ago; one of the best decisions I've ever made.

A recent visit to the Southwest has got me thinking... plenty of room, cheap living space... just gotta get the g/f on board!

I know it's been touched on already, but if you're looking to rebuild the turbos, why not look at something newer and more efficient like BorgWarner EFR or Garrett GTX3071R's? The dual ball bearing billet wheel turbos spool faster and are more effective at higher pressure ratios than any of the old journal bearing stuff. Plus you can opt for stainless turbine housings, and convert everything to compact and easily-serviceable V-band clamps. The only way I'm doing a 6spd swap is if I can produce north of 600awhp; it's one of those "if I'm gonna spend this much time and money, go-big-or-go-home" things.

bethridg

July 9th, 2015, 19:58

I know it's been touched on already, but if you're looking to rebuild the turbos, why not look at something newer and more efficient like BorgWarner EFR or Garrett GTX3071R's? The dual ball bearing billet wheel turbos spool faster and are more effective at higher pressure ratios than any of the old journal bearing stuff. Plus you can opt for stainless turbine housings, and convert everything to compact and easily-serviceable V-band clamps.

Unless it's a direct bolt-on; I'm not looking at any major fabrication right now.

Turbowned

July 9th, 2015, 21:52

You might look into some form of hybrid K04's then. Loba, MRC, etc. I just bumped into these:

http://sillyrabbitmotorsport.com/engine-components-upgrades/audi-rs6?product_id=86

bethridg

July 16th, 2015, 17:08

Updates and more pics.

F those flex plate bolts! Only one came out easily. No luck with heat; broke 2 sockets and stripped two bolt heads. Air chisel was no help either. Finally went the Fastguy way with angle grinder/vise grips. Success!!!

http://i.imgur.com/DNKqSxwh.jpg

The casualties....

http://i.imgur.com/vL0Frjrh.jpg

Rear main seal (Timken 716102) should arrive today.

http://i.imgur.com/bS0Oxk2h.jpg

Test fitting the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate/adapter.

http://i.imgur.com/pTkSACSh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/eh1IHQGh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/fdS5Sf0h.jpg

Oil cooler removed for Bufkin pipe.

http://i.imgur.com/pM97YKah.jpg

Plastic pipe was in pretty good condition.

http://i.imgur.com/J8ZI1gth.jpg

Reinstalled the oil cooler. Need to decide on my front mount oil cooler solution. Either keep the combo cooler or go the SteveKen BMW route.

http://i.imgur.com/8nzWZi2h.jpg

034 SAI block off plates.

http://i.imgur.com/V2QvR1Jh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/7HAcXohh.jpg

Basic timing belt kit from Blauparts. I did my last TB service ~10k miles ago. Decided I didn't need to replace the water pump/thermostat that quickly. Gates belt on the way too.

http://i.imgur.com/wn26xw9h.jpg?1

I didn't like the look of the upper rollers after so few miles. Bearings still operate smoothly but had a lot of build-up on the roller surface. This kit was from ECS Tuning. We'll see how the Blauparts kit holds up. Probably ruining my scientific control by going with the Gates belt this time.

http://i.imgur.com/xkh1Tzjh.jpg

Blauparts cam seals, tensioner pads and valve cover gaskets.

http://i.imgur.com/NDwLzCKh.jpg?1

2.7T CPS (06A906433C) and spacer (078906435).

http://i.imgur.com/bscKm46h.jpg

Advanced Automotion reverse light and neutral safety harness.

http://i.imgur.com/4Xjlyysh.jpg

I still have two shipments of misc items (exhaust/turbo gaskets and hardware, voltage regulator, coolant temp sensor, rear coolant pipe o-rings, oil/filter) on the way. Think I've decided to keep the secondary radiators installed. Turbos still need to be sent out for rebuild.

Lets talk throwout bearings! The AMD kit came with a plastic faced bearing. I'm not enthused about that. Is there a metal faced option out there? Perhaps http://store.034motorsport.com/clutch-throw-out-bearing-metal-audi-01a-01e-21579.html?___SID=U ???

Other_Erik

July 16th, 2015, 17:50

Wish I could answer your questions, just checking in and subscribing to the build thread, looks like you're doing a good amount of what I want to do after buying the house and building the cashflow back up. Lots of time and attention paid to preventative maintenance - very nice. What's the saying, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure?

Good luck with the build!

O_E

Fastguy

July 16th, 2015, 20:05

You might look into some form of hybrid K04's then. Loba, MRC, etc. I just bumped into these:

http://sillyrabbitmotorsport.com/engine-components-upgrades/audi-rs6?product_id=86

I have and am doing these turbos. I'll be sure to report once up and going.

I also went went with the re-cores from srm and they look fantastic. My water meth is started and the lines ran. Can't finish plumbing until engine back in. Just got my tdi trans a few days ago and a set of pipes with high flow race cats. All going back together as soon as I get home in a week or so.

The secondary cooler stuff is easy to remove and I think I'll be glad I did it. There are SO many potential points for leaks to occur.

I finally found a weld shop that thinks he can get the combo cooler back together. I think the hardest part is the weld bung which I am 99% sure, now, it is a m22x1.5 fitting. He said if he can't find one he'll see heat it costs to machine it. I asked him to do both fittings even though only one is broken off.

Right now I have 550 cc Bosch injectors. Hopefully that'll keep up. Don't think it will do for e85 though.

If you have any questions I can answer up to this point, I'd be happy to help. And yes, those flex plate Bolts were a nightmare.

nubcake

July 16th, 2015, 21:30

You might want to upgrade your fuel pump to 044 to go with those 550's.

Fastguy

July 16th, 2015, 22:06

You might want to upgrade your fuel pump to 044 to go with those 550's.

I actually have a walbro 450 with an 034 billet basket adapter ready to go in. When it comes time I believe Daz is going to help me convert to a single pump. I haven't messed with it yet because the two pump system is new to me.

bethridg

July 18th, 2015, 01:36

a set of pipes with high flow race cats

Who did you go with? Milltek or other? Any additional details?

Bigglezworth

July 18th, 2015, 02:11

Good progress. Looking good.

Fastguy

July 18th, 2015, 04:03

Good progress. Looking good.

So as to not hijack this thread I will update my build thread very soon.

In answer to your question about the pipes, as I understand it, I have the very first set of pipes acquired through ssac. I will update with complete details and pics as soon as I get them mounted (hopefully as soon as I get back to install everything).

bethridg

July 21st, 2015, 17:57

More parts arrived and less progress over the weekend than expected. Feels like Christmas!

Voltage regulator (0031546506), turbo oil return gaskets (058145757C), header gaskets (077253039C), coolant temp sensor (059919501A).

http://i.imgur.com/L3jODRSh.jpg?1

Downpipe studs (N90778702) / nuts (WHT000039) / gaskets (4B3253115), Turbo coolant (N0138493) and oil (N0138132) crush washers, crank bolt (078105229D), damper bolts (N10238805), rear coolant pipe o-rings, exhaust clamps (8L9253139A), driver's switch bezel (4B19595217PE)

http://i.imgur.com/tInV4tQh.jpg

Oil / filter

http://i.imgur.com/KU05gYGh.jpg

Gates timing belt (T297RB).

http://i.imgur.com/o5Gp0Vfh.jpg

USP braided stainless clutch line (was on sale over the weekend). I think it's near impossible to install the stock hard line without removing the brake booster. So $75+shipping is money well spent for keeping my sanity.

http://i.imgur.com/nhhJYfVh.jpg

Old vs new regulator. Probably was fine and the stator shaft did show some wear but expected for 101k miles. Rebuild/replace will be needed at some point.

http://i.imgur.com/2ueW9X6h.jpg

Before the tear down.

http://i.imgur.com/XQnOEcgh.jpg

Front crank seal was leaking a bit.

http://i.imgur.com/asGkZLVh.jpg

Front crank seal removed.

http://i.imgur.com/A8xWZuMh.jpg

Cleaned up with new seal installed. Found that the lower serpentine belt roller sounded gritty when spun so a replacement is on order. Serpentine tensioner is in good shape.

http://i.imgur.com/vLuMjnVh.jpg

Driver's side half moon seal / cam tensioner gasket is leaking too.

http://i.imgur.com/7bdaMb9h.jpg

Passenger side wasn't too bad.

http://i.imgur.com/qhQJluRh.jpg

All cleaned up!

http://i.imgur.com/A5m4ruih.jpg

Intended on completing the cam seals / tensioner pads / valve cover gaskets and timing belt over the weekend but I broke the plastic tensioner compression tool. UGH! Two more on order...

http://i.imgur.com/qpJ1QOwh.jpg

Cleaned up the gasket mating surface and called it a day.

http://i.imgur.com/byu4hnfh.jpg

Rear crank seal was replaced and flywheel/clutch/pressure plate installed and torqued also. Have to hit the hardware store to grab a temporary bolt to align the starter per SteveKen's instructions while the trans is off. I went a little crazy ordering misc odds and ends over the weekend too. More to come!

Bigglezworth

July 21st, 2015, 18:24

Fun times!! Great update.

Fastguy

July 21st, 2015, 19:05

bethridg

July 21st, 2015, 20:16

Fantastic pictures and write up. This helps tremendously as I can relate what I'm doing to every pic. Trans is sitting at home but I am not. As soon as I get back I get to start on the steveken kit. Hopefully you continue with the same wonderful detail as you do the trans install as well :)

i already got got a tip from you as I did not order a new 2.7 caps and spacer. I am going to do that now!

I've spent the better part of the last 6 months researching, planning and looking up part numbers. The pictures are a great reference when putting everything back together and if it helps someone else tackle any part of this project then awesome! There are 5+ other 6MT threads on here (including yours) that are excellent resources. It would have been a lot more difficult to justify if those were not available.

Now hurry up and get home so we can hear more about those turbos and downpipes you have!!!

bethridg

August 3rd, 2015, 18:07

Mo' parts, Mo' progress. Spent a significant time cleaning up the grit and grime buildup under the car.

JHM solid linkage upgrade and stabilizer bushing.

http://i.imgur.com/iA1Ir9ch.jpg

Accessory roller (077903341)

http://i.imgur.com/YMyvQZKh.jpg

Went ahead and picked up the 034 metal faced throwout/release bearing. So far I'm happy with the decision. I was having nightmares of being forced to drop the trans again due to the plastic unit failing.

http://i.imgur.com/Cal8WC3h.jpg

Transmission fluid

http://i.imgur.com/uVgNHYgh.jpg

Specialty wrenches for timing belt eccentric tensioner.

http://i.imgur.com/cEBOSFPh.jpg

Brake fluid reservoir to clutch master cylinder supply hose.

http://i.imgur.com/tpRd4Lhh.jpg

Cam chain tensioner pads replaced. Wear was typical compared to the other pictures I've seen with similar mileage. Make sure you have the specialty tool seated properly on the pad and not hung up on the chain before compressing or you'll end up breaking the tool and have to wait for a replacement. Learn from my mistake! :)

http://i.imgur.com/DkOo1aZh.jpg

Paint pen used to reference alignment for reassembly. All the cam caps had to be loosened then gently lift the cams so the tensioner could be removed. I wouldn't want to do this with the engine in position.

http://i.imgur.com/5ry0vI8h.jpg

Tensioner reinstalled and cam seal replaced. Rinse and repeat for opposite bank.

http://i.imgur.com/qcDYeQ5h.jpg

There is a seal behind the cam position sensor reluctor ring. The cam alignment tool used to break bolts loose and re-torque.

http://i.imgur.com/RiBOYqsh.jpg

Timing belt service. Torque to spec plus half turn on the crank bolt was a bit difficult with the tools I have access to right now.

http://i.imgur.com/XufLv06h.jpg

All back together!

http://i.imgur.com/YYfEZxAh.jpg

After getting the transmission mated I tackled some more upgrades. The stock shift linkage is VERY sloppy.

http://i.imgur.com/rjEioaWh.jpg

JHM solid shift linkage installed. Even with holding the shifter box in hand there is a noticeable difference when engaging gears. I'll probably end up getting their short throw shifter eventually but that can be swapped with the engine/trans in place.

http://i.imgur.com/FO8HjKzh.jpg

Stock early style stabilizer bushing. This is where most of the slop originates.

http://i.imgur.com/VALpFUxh.jpg

JHM delrin stabilizer bushing installed. Cleared up a lot of the horizontal movement. Worth the $30 while you have easy access.

http://i.imgur.com/LBU6cCjh.jpg

Sub-frame reinstalled. I used a pair of 13mm deep well sockets to align the motor mount bracket and subframe. There is a specialty tool (3393) for this but that got me in the ballpark for now.

http://i.imgur.com/U3fKAiyh.jpg

Pretty much all that's left to get it back in the car is figuring out the turbos. Been going back and forth on whether to do a straight rebuild or upgrade. I also need to build a longer VSS harness. Maybe others just reroute but I'd prefer to keep it in the stock location.

bethridg

September 11th, 2015, 23:25

Things are happening!!!

Long story short, in an attempt to save a few hundred dollars I ordered a set of CHRAs from a company in CA without doing my usual due diligence. Which cost me tons of headaches, a month of downtime and now dealing with a CC dispute. Anyway, I ended up doing what I should have done in the first place and ordered from Midwest Turbo Connection.

For those that haven't seen a fully disassembled K04 see below. I hadn't touched a turbo since tossing a rebuild kit on the IHI turbo that was in my T-Bird after blowing the oil seals. i actually just planned on rebuilding these turbos but while I was separating the housings I accidentally broke off an edge of the bearing housing (stuuuupid).

http://i.imgur.com/zDdMs0Lh.jpg

Chasing threads. I had a few studs in the turbine housing that would not come out. Attempted to heat and extract but eventually it just sheared off. Drilled out the broken stud and gave up on the others. All new hardware was used where I could.

http://i.imgur.com/MwZFRTgh.jpg

Following Fastguy's lead, I first contacted SSAC which in turn directed me to Sean as SRM for info on these downpipes. Yes, they did come from China but they don't look to be complete junk. We'll see how long they last and for the money it was a better route to go than cutting up my stock units.

http://i.imgur.com/sugE3xth.jpg

Ah, the final piece to this puzzle.

http://i.imgur.com/BZYsyWbh.jpg

Time to reassemble the turbos! Pretty simple process. Bolt ALL the things together!!!

http://i.imgur.com/6CM8oiVh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/wMcSgRLh.jpg

Fully assembled driver side turbo.

http://i.imgur.com/4QwWZUjh.jpg

Fully assembled passenger side turbo.

http://i.imgur.com/bMHbZ92h.jpg

Installing them on the motor was a challenge. Tight quarters and short oil/coolant supply lines. Don't want to think about doing this with the motor in position.

http://i.imgur.com/2JHdKeqh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8Q5nt2Uh.jpg

I had to remove the passenger exhaust manifold again, position the turbo then re-install the manifold. So frustrating.

http://i.imgur.com/MVbQycZh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SA17WTch.jpg

Adjusted the wastegate actuators and installed the downpipes.

http://i.imgur.com/AlMPXVkh.jpg

Need to heat up and adjust the drivers side secondary 02 sensor bung to clear the shift linkage. These will be coded out eventually but I don't like the idea of having disconnected connectors on the firewall if I just plugged the bungs.

http://i.imgur.com/MvXRW8uh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/H5PQ8DCh.jpg

Also over the last month I removed the secondary radiator system, wired in the clutch switch to the ecu harness, removed the TCU and replaced the fuel filter.

What next? Will do some wire management, leak test the turbo connections, slide the motor back into position then flush/bleed the clutch slave cylinder and brakes. If things go well I should be able to fire it back up by the end of the weekend. YAY!

P1054

September 11th, 2015, 23:42

Call me crazy, but that looks like a lot of fun! I did mine back in October/November of last year, and had a great time with the conversion! Toward the end I was ready to be done and driving it, but now I'm *kind of* wishing I had another big car project to do..

kruat

September 12th, 2015, 00:03

You can always do mine Daniel...haha. I'm fighting the urge to do this swap.

Fastguy

September 12th, 2015, 01:15

Ha! reading your post sounds almost as if I were writing it myself....your experiences are almost identical to mine. I did the exact same thing on the passenger side turbo. VERY frustrating. Had to remove manifold, set turbo and lines, and then reinstall. What a pain. Also, I noticed, that the turbos needed to be clocked PERFECTLY to fit properly.

One thing I noticed from your pictures earlier...did you properly tension the timing belt using a 5mm allen at the tensioner and then do two full revolutions again and check? The tensioner damper piston in your pic seems fully inward. I was confused with this procedure as it is not the same on the 2.7 but did eventually figure it out. Oh, and you must bend the driver side 02 bung with heat, a pipe and patience. It will not be coded out as the car needs it to run properly. Only the rear 02's will be coded out. Also, if you plan to do emissions with these pipes, the rear o2's must be coded out because you will notice that the rear bungs are pre-cat. I believe they are merely there for tuning or monitoring of exhaust gases (not for the cats). I installed a wideband sensor in mine and I actually purchased two new front o2 sensors.

You are much braver (or much more experienced) than I as I would be scared to rip into the turbos like that. I know I would never get them reassembled properly and I've been told the only way to properly build them piece by piece is to have the equipment to balance them at very high rpm. I've heard very good reviews about midwest turbo (and they are close to me).

I didn't know this until after I began reassembly, but you need some alignment pins (just in case you were unaware) for little holes in the front of the subframe, the engine mounts, and the body. It was a little difficult getting them to line up but I finally got that also.

I am still doing finishing touches on mine even though I've had it running a few times. I tested the turbos for leaks both oil and water pre-installation, and then once engine was back in the car, as soon as I could, I filled the coolant reservoir with straight water and pressure tested overnight. My idle tested showed me a leak at the upper banjo bolt on the ps pump even though I had installed two brand new crush washers. I also noticed a slight rattle in the compressor so I pressed out the clutch bearing the new one arrived just moments ago.

Racking my brain with possible issues you might encounter...embarrassing but worth noting: I go to start the car for the first time. Install battery, turn key to accessory position, and WHOA...the starter begins cranking away. Luckily the gas line is not primed yet and, even better luck, the starter pulls out with the key switching instantly back off. Worried, nervous, and confused I start racking my brain for a cause. I am thinking that I somehow got the starer solenoid connector accidentally smashed against the main lead to the starter. Cursing, I start planning my attack to drop the damn engine again and pull the starter. I walked away for a few hours just to allow myself to calm down and think. I realize upon reassembly of all the connectors I had almost everything labeled. For some reason, I failed to label a set of connectors over near where the SAI pump was. Since I have removed and coded out the sai pump, the connector is no longer necessary and will be neatly zip tied out of the way. The connector, however, is identical to what I now know is one that powers the solenoid below. So, when the key was switched on, power for the SAI pump was accidentally being delivered to the starter solenoid. Phew. As long winded as that was I wouldn't want someone else to make the same mistake...it's scary. Also, I needed to explain myself :)

EDIT: In case you were unaware, and since you have the ss flex line as I do, it's easiest to bleed the slave/clutch master cylinder with it dangling before you lift the engine. This way as you are lifting the engine and trans all you have to do is give yourself enough room to reach in there and install the slave into the hole in the trans. I think it is possible to bleed the slave after the engine is installed (there is a TON more room with the manual) but you would still be doing in from below the car and reaching upward. You would also need to pop a line on the bleeder port so you don't have fluid running all down the sides of the transmission (and with my luck probably right into my mouth/face).

ttboost

September 12th, 2015, 02:02

bethridg

September 13th, 2015, 05:25

The tensioner damper piston in your pic seems fully inward

I looked back at everything I posted and all I could find that matches this description is a pic prior to installing the timing belt where the retention pin was still in place on the damper. I followed the instructions I've found in multiple places and manually turned over the motor a handful of times to check for any valvetrain interference in addition to cycling the starter.

I did note during disassemblely that it was about 1 tooth off. I think it's going to be in better shape than it was the last time I did the TB service because this time I popped the cam sprockets.

You are much braver (or much more experienced) than I as I would be scared to rip into the turbos like that.

My bravery is only as deep as my wallet or whom ever is covering the bill.

you need some alignment pins

A set of 14mm deep sockets work well as substitutes. I may invest in the real deal sometime. It's amazing how much time, effort and usually money you can save with the proper tools.

bethridg

September 13th, 2015, 05:31

Absolutely positively bleed the clutch before you get everything back in the car. You can connect everything up and still have room to get to the bleeder. I cut a 2x4 to wedge between the drivers seat and the clutch pedal (as I had to work alone). Bled very quickly and easily with the new SS line.

I hear yea. This was the plan from the beginning. I used the extension pipe for my 3/4 ton jack handle and a block of wood. But I f'd up and stripped the bleeder valve. Don't ask me how....it just happened. New slave on order. FML.

bethridg

September 13th, 2015, 05:46

bethridg

September 13th, 2015, 05:54

rip into the turbos like that

Forgot to mention I'm trying to come up with a design for a kinetic perpetual motion desk sculpture that incorporates the old turbine, shaft and compressor wheel from the old CHRAs. Hate to toss those out.

SteveKen

September 13th, 2015, 14:34

bethridg

September 13th, 2015, 19:14

You shouldn't have any clearance issues with the shifter linkages. Be sure that the shift rod isn't still hitting the drivers side front oxygen sensor. And that the cross rod is mounted to the right hole. (I'm pretty sure that there are two options)

Also be sure that you have the correct motor and trans mount heights by comparing them to the originals.

The only other reason I can thinkn of is that maybe the JHM items are causing this.

I've done the conversion using both the early and late style shifters and haven't had any issues with hitting the trans tunnel.

Trans mounts are the original units from the 5Tip. There is no interference up at the JHM piece. Below is a pic of the only location making contact with anything. Maybe I have the cross rod installed wrong. I'll play around with it some more when I lower everything to replace the motor mounts and slave cylinder.

http://i.imgur.com/CxM3SNs.jpg

Fastguy

September 15th, 2015, 21:59

Motor is in position but....problems.... I tore a motor mount trying to lift the motor, motor mount brackets, and subframe as one assembly. Ordered 034 mounts and resistors.

I also have a clearance problem with the shift linkage. The stabilizer rod is good but the shift rod is making contact with the transmission tunnel. I can feel the interference in the shifter knob. Unable to engage R-4 gears cleanly. Don't know if it's the early style shift linkage I have or I'm just dumb.

Sorry, looked back and realized your timing belt was not even installed in that pic...my mistake.

I tore my original mounts near instantly the first time I pulled a 2.7t. I know now they are not designed to have ANY upward force on them whatsoever. I learned the hard way.

I had no issues with my shifter (knock on wood), at least with clearances other than the o2 sensor which I bent out of the way. If there is anything you'd like to reference as far as pictures go, let me know and I'll go out and snap whatever you need. I did not, however, change the stock shifter mechanism whatsoever from the point I removed it from the donor car. I simply unbolted and swapped it straight over. I didn't even update the bushings or change to a short shifter (which I sure hope I don't regret down the line). Have you tried shifting it with the engine running? All four wheels of mine are off the ground and I was able to start the car and put it into each gear (as far as I can tell) with ease.

EDIT: sorry, your previous pic just appeared. I see now where you are rubbing. It seems something must be installed incorrectly. Mine bolted right up with no issues there. Yours should as well. In a bit, I'll go out and take a look to see how close mine is. ***ALSO*** I too, first installed that cross rod in the incorrect hole. Don't know why the other hole is even there (to screw stuff up) but it throws everything out of whack. I bet that's what is going on here.

bethridg

September 30th, 2015, 16:41

Light at the end of the tunnel....

More parts arrived, first run and remaining drivetrain/exhaust pieces installed.

034 Motorsports street density engine mounts and resistors. Drilled out the brackets to accept the larger 10mm hardware.

http://i.imgur.com/os3UHtgh.jpg

I had the worst time installing the slave cylinder. Wasn't until I received the second unit that I realized the bleeder valve was plastic. Which explains how I managed to strip it on the first unit. Replace with new and minutes later blew the piston out the end. Swap bleeder valve over to original with exact same result. Blown piston. WTF. Order a 3rd. Couple days later it arrives, by then I figure out I must be somehow missing the clutch fork and the piston is reaching the end of it's travel. Carefully install it again directing the slave rod as straight as possible. I make a mental note that I really can't feel any resistance like I'd expect if it's properly seated in the clutch fork. And it happens again. I give up. 4th unit arrives and it all becomes very clear. The JHM shift linkage upgrade has a counter weight which makes it impossible to slide the slave in straight from the rear. I had been trying to angle it in from the side. Unbolt the shift linkage, install the slave, bleed and re-install the linkage. SUCCESS! ~$200 wasted.

Also, Apikol MAF seal upgrade.

http://i.imgur.com/lUvHbrUh.jpg

Trying to figure out my shift linkage clearance issue I went ahead and ordered a JHM short shifter with updated base (1" shorter version). I'm pretty convinced that either I have some oddball shift linkage (not likely) or the JHM upgrade changed the geometry on the gear selector rod. To make it all work I removed a small section of the transmission tunnel insulation where it was making contact.

http://i.imgur.com/iaae2uLh.jpg

Looking back, I didn't share any pictures when installing the motor. Here I was doing some last minute tidying. Drained and filled the transmission while I had easy access. Fresh motor oil added at a later time.

http://i.imgur.com/8aMruDEh.jpg

This is where I tore the original motor mount. Not paying attention, I had the lower control arms on top of the subframe. Which doesn't work well when the hoist is lifting up and the DRC is pushing down. I'm okay with this now because I know the motor mounts shouldn't have to be touched for a very long time.

http://i.imgur.com/tOoOAONh.jpg

Turbo priming and first run! Amazingly I got all the wiring installed correctly the first time. And so far, after a few runs, no leaks. A few more heat cycles and I'll go back and re-tighten what I can.

http://i.imgur.com/RguwVKDh.jpg

Retained the stock combination cooler for now but capped off the trans circuit. Installing the core support is so much easier with the trans cooler lines removed.

http://i.imgur.com/vYNMPmLh.jpg

Last shot of the short throw shifter installed. The stock shifter height felt too tall and sloppy compared. Tight and direct engagements now. I'll have to try out the optional stiffer reverse springs included.

http://i.imgur.com/6uekJO8h.jpg

Hopefully I'll have it back on the ground by weeks end. Then ship out the ECU for reprogramming.

Fastguy

September 30th, 2015, 17:32

Your install and meticulous attention to detail looks amazing! Fantastic job. Would surely like to meet and compare stories someday!

Turbowned

September 30th, 2015, 18:32

You know, everyone wants to criticize the packaging job that Audi did on these motors, but I have to say, it looks brilliant sitting in there:

http://i.imgur.com/RguwVKDh.jpg

MaxRS6

September 30th, 2015, 20:43

^Is all good when it is in- Just not so much sitting out for some relatively simple items..;0

bethridg

September 30th, 2015, 21:03

You know, everyone wants to criticize the packaging job that Audi did on these motors, but I have to say, it looks brilliant sitting in there

^Is all good when it is in- Just not so much sitting out for some relatively simple items..;0

Case in point, I might sell it if I ever have to go near this starter again. Terrible access even with the motor out of the car.

http://i.imgur.com/wgXQcnHh.jpg

bethridg

September 30th, 2015, 21:06

Your install and meticulous attention to detail looks amazing! Fantastic job. Would surely like to meet and compare stories someday!

I feel for ya. At least I got to enjoy driving mine for 2 years before taking on this project. You will be rewarded soon.

nubcake

October 1st, 2015, 05:33

Here's why you are hitting trans tunnel: 16764
BTDT. :hihi:

bethridg

October 1st, 2015, 05:43

Here's why you are hitting trans tunnel: 16764
BTDT. :hihi:

I tried both crossrod mount positions. That threw the shifter even more out of whack.

nubcake

October 1st, 2015, 17:25

Hm, it appears there are even more shift linkage versions than I had imagined.
Sorry bout the confusion.

SteveKen

October 1st, 2015, 18:56

Are you sure that the piece that attaches to the 01E's shifter selector (barrel) is seated and wedged in properly?

I think that if it's off, it might not seat properly.

bethridg

October 1st, 2015, 22:32

Are you sure that the piece that attaches to the 01E's shifter selector (barrel) is seated and wedged in properly?

I think that if it's off, it might not seat properly.

Yeah I'm pretty sure. I posted some comparison pictures (stock vs JHM) in this thread a while back.

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/32235-Another-01E-conversion?p=276460&viewfull=1#post276460

RAUDI used this same setup when he did his swap but I never saw a picture of it installed nor did he ever mention any issues.

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/26335-6MT-Conversion-Project?p=257842&viewfull=1#post257842

Wish I would have grabbed the part # off the selector rod before buttoning everything up. Because finding a clear picture for a C5 6-speed linkage setup is difficult. My selector rod makes a distinct bend towards the drivers side just passed the dust boot. Whereas the example from audis4parts appears to be fairly straight.

http://i.imgur.com/HIY4zzRh.jpg

http://audis4parts.com/images/products/a6swapkit.jpg

I don't know. With my modification to the trans tunnel insulation I can now row thru the gears without issue but it's still up on jack stands. So the jury is still out.

bethridg

October 2nd, 2015, 03:58

Ran the car around the block a couple times.

First impression

http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh488/ifoundcallie/101379-Jim-Carrey-I-like-it-alot-gif-GflM.gif

Came back and scanned it. Coming up with the following DTC now with some sputtering/hesitation.

17473 - Fuel Pressure Regulation
P1065 - 008 - Regulation Discrepancy

Google doesn't return much but one thread on rs246 matches the symptoms and points to a faulty primary fuel pump. Hmmm.

b5widebody

October 2nd, 2015, 04:58

You mounting point of the shift lever is wrong
you cannot mount it on the side of the transmission
needs to be on the top of transmission
see the arrows I made

b5widebody

October 2nd, 2015, 05:03

16766here is a close up

bethridg

October 2nd, 2015, 05:27

16766here is a close up

Early style mounts on side; late style mounts on top. See part #37 in diagrams.

1676716768

bethridg

October 2nd, 2015, 16:28

a faulty primary fuel pump

Yuuup. I guess I cracked the connector housing when I was replacing the fuel filter. Wiggled it a little and it snapped clean off. Lame.

What are my options? OE lists at ~$700.

Bosch 044?? Is it a drop-in upgrade for the external pump with a little wiring/adapting?

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/21391-DIY-Bosch-044-Fuel-Pump-5-bar-fuel-pressure-regulator

bethridg

October 22nd, 2015, 03:39

Got all the parts for swapping in a Bosch 044 in place of the external fuel pump. Used the directions from the post I linked above. Solved my sputtering/hesitation issue. However, the first time I gave it some boost during the 1st to 2nd shift the knob broke off in my hand lol. This thing is a monster!

http://i.imgur.com/RTnACich.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/v2dL0YYh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8uavfsWh.jpg

bethridg

October 23rd, 2015, 19:12

Dmb408

October 23rd, 2015, 20:39

Congratulations with having it pretty well done then...seems like you are only a couple trips to Fedex away (ECU out ECU back). Just let me know when you have it dialed in and want to sell it to me.

Fastguy

October 24th, 2015, 00:13

Back in business! I think I'm done with the hardware portion of this project. I have around 700 miles on the car now and everything is good. At some point I need to ship the ECU up to AMD but as it stands the unknown tune runs strong with a few caveats:

* no abs/esp
* high idle (900rpm) when rolling with clutch in or no gear selected (idle settles down when stopped)
* cruise control works but don't push in the clutch when activated :P

The AMD Stage 3+ clutch is light, smooth to engage and holds strong. I occasionally have some rear wheel hop from a stop, I don't know if you could call it chatter or if it's caused by chatter but it happens when I over think my clutch engagement. So it's probably all on the operator...

Overall, I'm extremely satisfied and hope this thread will be useful to someone else in the future.

http://i.imgur.com/23KIpwhh.jpg

Very nice!!

Looks great. These are so fun to drive. I should have mine back in business hopefully tomorrow. Just partially installed the new, correct, correct rear dif tonight.

As as for your clutch issues; did you hook up the switch that terminates at pin 39 of the ecu? If so, I guess the tune will take care of your idle/clutch issue. I've been watching this thread closely as my progress was very close to yours. Great pics. Really helped.