Proper way to remove and install front lower control arms

[Turbowned]

Gentlemen (and ladies, if applicable),

I am stuck trying to replace the lower front control arms on the car. I don't have the manual here (yet). I think I need to remove the axle because there doesn't seem to be enough clearance to get the outer end out of the upright knuckle without hitting the CV joint, but of course the axle nuts are being stubborn and won't break loose with even the biggest impact gun/compressor I have. Also, the steel sleeve is coming out of the upright with the control arm, rather than staying in the upright (not sure if this is supposed to happen). Lastly, I unbolted the arm from the subframe, and determined I should probably put it back in for the time being until I can get the other end unbolted; now the long bolt came out fairly easily, but it won't seem to go back in, even though it looks like it's lined up correctly. Can anyone provide some suggestion as to tackle this best (besides RTFM)? I can take reference pictures if needed. I'm scratching my head here and have limited time to finish this job.

[TMAC]

This was not a quick job when I replaced the upper and lower control arms in May. I kept messing with it and ended up using an air cutoff wheel for one of the bolts due to clearance. I had all new hardware. Good luck.

[Turbowned]

I got the bolt out, getting it back in is proving to be the real challenge!

[cruzanrs6]

You will need to lower the sub frame to put the rear facing control arm bolt back in.

[Bigglezworth]

The CV axle must be removed yes. Ensure you remove the steel sleeve from the old control arm and don't toss it out in the trash (like I did the one time....). The use a front end service kit made removal straight forward. These arms can be tight and difficult to work free. Back arm needs to have sub-frame lowered in order to remove the bolt. For the front arm, I 'trimmed' the washer on the one side to make reinsertion of the bolt back in to the sub-frame a little easier. The washer regularly gets caught up on the frame and makes alignment difficult. Overall easily an additional 30-60mins of frustration over base time one would expect to spend R&R'ing.

[Turbowned]

Ah, OK. I thought that washer was causing problems. Perhaps I can try that with a Dremel. I won't do the rearward lower control arms, then. I'll leave that up to my indy when he does the alignment. I don't really feel comfortable lowering the subframe on my own, yet...

[Bigglezworth]

Ah, OK. I thought that washer was causing problems. Perhaps I can try that with a Dremel. I won't do the rearward lower control arms, then. I'll leave that up to my indy when he does the alignment. I don't really feel comfortable lowering the subframe on my own, yet...There is no concern doing this. Remember you are only unbolting one of the bolts from the chassis in it's entirety, while all the other still stay anchored with only a pair loosened off. You will want to loosen front bolts on the same side you are doing the arm a nominal 50%. Opposite side stays bolted up fully. Then put a jack stand under the rear point of the sub-frame (as a safety procaution), and remove the rear in its entirety. The subframe will torsion in the chassis after the bolt is removed and still possibly not enough to remove the bolt. You can simply put a pry bar in between the point where the subframe mounts up to the chassis and flex the frame down that little bit more to create the necessary clearance required to slide the bolt out. IF - and from my recollection that's an if - the frame doesn't flex down enough, you can back off the rear frame bolt on the opposite side a nominal 25% to create some additional deflection. The bolt should be able to be easily removed by hand at this point so the amount of time you are performing this is minimal. Bolt up is the exact opposite. You'd be surprised on how much weight can be suspended on just a few bolts

[nubcake]

Actually you don't have to remove CV axle. Or, well, I didn't have to. Just replaced lower control arms on my car without unbolting it.

[Turbowned]

How did you accomplish it? It looks to me like the front-most lower control arm will hit the axle if you try to remove it from the "cup" of the upright.

[Bigglezworth]

Actually you don't have to remove CV axle. Or, well, I didn't have to. Just replaced lower control arms on my car without unbolting it.Bizarre. I guarantee that I had to remove the axle as there wasn't sufficient clearance between the bottom of the outer C/V boot and the top of of the front control arm to enable the arm to be removed with the axle in place.

[Turbowned]

At this point I'm just about ready to flatbed it to my indy and have him deal with it. I wish I had finished removing the DRC lines and gotten the rear Konis installed; gonna have to pay to have that done, too. I just don't have any more time as I terminated the lease on my shop space and tomorrow's the last day.

I think I spent too much time cleaning salt and grime from the underbody and wheel wells and not enough time actually doing the work I was supposed to... Boy, she looks shiny underneath, though!

[nubcake]

I removed it from the subframe first, then angled it down and "fished" it out of upright. Hope that makes sense. :)
Actually did it two times since the replacement bushing turned out to be defective. Took about 20 mins on lift the second time round. :)

EDIT: I'm running MT, so maybe (unlikely) MT CV joints are smaller?
EDIT2: It will only work if the steel insert stays in the upright. Or, well, you still can force the control arm out, but you won't be able to put it back in like that.