Other_Erik
May 5th, 2015, 17:48
Soooooooooo
After months of tinkering with the RS, I've finally figured out why my RNS-E would not go to sleep. Personally, I think this info should be included with the unit on purchase, but maybe Zawa doesn't have access to a vehicle with the old integrated analog Onstar system. In any case, let this be a simple writeup (I didn't take pictures, and I'm not staging it) on how to fix the RNS-E "up all night" problem that leaves us with dead battery.
1) Gather the following tools:
a) 11mm socket
b) wratcheting wrench
c) wratchet extensions - you'll need about 18 inches worth (yes seriously), including at least one that bends.
d) Philips-head screwdriver
e) Either/and/or a small, flat-tipped screwdriver, a hooked pick
f) Paper Towels (probably needed)
g) Beer
2) Optional - someone with double-jointed wrists or just generally able to squeeze into tight places. Experience as a contortionist is a plus.
3) Time to get started - open up the passenger door, get on the floor, everybody walk the dinosaur.
3a) Okay, enough fooling around. Put the passenger seat as far back as it will go, you'll need the room.
4) Pull the plastic caps off the passenger footwell outer liner to expose the hidden mounting screw. (flat tip screwdriver and/or hooked pick)
5) Unscrew both mounting screws from the passenger footwell outer liner. (Philips-head screwdriver)
6) Pull the passenger footwell outer liner away from the carpeting, wedge out of the way as best you can.
7) Pull the passenger footwell carpeting away from the outer liner area and away from the firewall, way up under the glovebox.
8) Thank whatever higher power you may or may not believe in, that I'm not telling you to pull the glovebox.
9) There may be a piece of 2-mil plastic sheeting under the carpet/foam, and it may or may not have lots of mold on it from wetness spilling down the firewall. If stuff is wet, here's where you put those paper towels to good use.
10) There are 5 (count them, five!) nuts holding the Onstar guts and battery to the firewall with a piece of bent sheet metal. You probably only see two or three outright. Be glad they're all the same socket size (11mm) I'll call them Bottom left, middle left, middle right, upper left, and "where the F***!"
a) Bottom left comes out easy. Extensions nice-to-have if the carpet/foam is in the way.
b) middle-right is easy peasy. Extensions getting to be quite useful due to proximity to the bottom of the glovebox.
c) middle-left is where things start to get annoying. Extensions are nice, bendy extension pretty well needed to get this one out of the way.
d) upper-left is a real drag. 18 inches of extensions (including at least one bendy) and you're golden. Don't celebrate just yet!
e) "where the F***!" - is in the upper-right corner of the sheet metal. It's hard to see, unless you can get yourself upside-down and look up behind the back of the glovebox. You WILL need the bendy extension, you will praise my name in all its glory for preparing you with 18 inches or more of extensions. You will curse your feeble trembling hands for every time the socket slips off this <expletives deleted - mgmt>.
11) Now that the nuts are out (no pun intended), simple disassembly time! Pull the interface module from its Velcro prison, wedge to the side for later.
12) PULL the entire sheet-metal ensconced battery foam pack AND OnStar module away from the firewall. You'll need to wiggle it to clear the mounting bolts.
13) Once you've freed the module and sheet metal from the mounting bolts, you're in the home stretch.
14) Slide the foam pack containing the onstar battery out of the sheet metal sheath. Open up the foam, and disconnect the battery pack from the clip fastener.
15) Disconnect the Onstar Module from the interface module referenced in step 11. Push the tab on the clip, then pull the clip until it swings out and away.
16) Disconnect the other connection(s) on the Onstar module - one of these will be the stock GPS antenna. Tag that bad boy if you want to re-use it!
17) As in step 15, Disconnect the Onstar Interface from the vehicle wiring harness. Push the tab on the blahblahblahblahblah
18) OPTIONAL - undo the wiring loom a bit to get the stock GPS antenna signal cable freed up enough to reach the back of the RNS-E. Add to the proper part of the harness for clean installation look. No more need for a hockey puck antenna cluttering up your dashboard!
19) Just making sure you read all these directions BEFORE you start, I never said anywhere about the beer - feel free to imbibe to your heart's content while performing this procedure. Loosen yourself up and the nut removal in step 10 is nowhere near as bad
20) Jam the carpet/foam back in place, unwedge the passenger footwell outer plastic liner, jam that back into place and reinstall its mounting screws and plastic cap. You're done!
If this helped, you're welcome. If you want to take this writeup and add pictures, good for you!
Thanks!
O_E
After months of tinkering with the RS, I've finally figured out why my RNS-E would not go to sleep. Personally, I think this info should be included with the unit on purchase, but maybe Zawa doesn't have access to a vehicle with the old integrated analog Onstar system. In any case, let this be a simple writeup (I didn't take pictures, and I'm not staging it) on how to fix the RNS-E "up all night" problem that leaves us with dead battery.
1) Gather the following tools:
a) 11mm socket
b) wratcheting wrench
c) wratchet extensions - you'll need about 18 inches worth (yes seriously), including at least one that bends.
d) Philips-head screwdriver
e) Either/and/or a small, flat-tipped screwdriver, a hooked pick
f) Paper Towels (probably needed)
g) Beer
2) Optional - someone with double-jointed wrists or just generally able to squeeze into tight places. Experience as a contortionist is a plus.
3) Time to get started - open up the passenger door, get on the floor, everybody walk the dinosaur.
3a) Okay, enough fooling around. Put the passenger seat as far back as it will go, you'll need the room.
4) Pull the plastic caps off the passenger footwell outer liner to expose the hidden mounting screw. (flat tip screwdriver and/or hooked pick)
5) Unscrew both mounting screws from the passenger footwell outer liner. (Philips-head screwdriver)
6) Pull the passenger footwell outer liner away from the carpeting, wedge out of the way as best you can.
7) Pull the passenger footwell carpeting away from the outer liner area and away from the firewall, way up under the glovebox.
8) Thank whatever higher power you may or may not believe in, that I'm not telling you to pull the glovebox.
9) There may be a piece of 2-mil plastic sheeting under the carpet/foam, and it may or may not have lots of mold on it from wetness spilling down the firewall. If stuff is wet, here's where you put those paper towels to good use.
10) There are 5 (count them, five!) nuts holding the Onstar guts and battery to the firewall with a piece of bent sheet metal. You probably only see two or three outright. Be glad they're all the same socket size (11mm) I'll call them Bottom left, middle left, middle right, upper left, and "where the F***!"
a) Bottom left comes out easy. Extensions nice-to-have if the carpet/foam is in the way.
b) middle-right is easy peasy. Extensions getting to be quite useful due to proximity to the bottom of the glovebox.
c) middle-left is where things start to get annoying. Extensions are nice, bendy extension pretty well needed to get this one out of the way.
d) upper-left is a real drag. 18 inches of extensions (including at least one bendy) and you're golden. Don't celebrate just yet!
e) "where the F***!" - is in the upper-right corner of the sheet metal. It's hard to see, unless you can get yourself upside-down and look up behind the back of the glovebox. You WILL need the bendy extension, you will praise my name in all its glory for preparing you with 18 inches or more of extensions. You will curse your feeble trembling hands for every time the socket slips off this <expletives deleted - mgmt>.
11) Now that the nuts are out (no pun intended), simple disassembly time! Pull the interface module from its Velcro prison, wedge to the side for later.
12) PULL the entire sheet-metal ensconced battery foam pack AND OnStar module away from the firewall. You'll need to wiggle it to clear the mounting bolts.
13) Once you've freed the module and sheet metal from the mounting bolts, you're in the home stretch.
14) Slide the foam pack containing the onstar battery out of the sheet metal sheath. Open up the foam, and disconnect the battery pack from the clip fastener.
15) Disconnect the Onstar Module from the interface module referenced in step 11. Push the tab on the clip, then pull the clip until it swings out and away.
16) Disconnect the other connection(s) on the Onstar module - one of these will be the stock GPS antenna. Tag that bad boy if you want to re-use it!
17) As in step 15, Disconnect the Onstar Interface from the vehicle wiring harness. Push the tab on the blahblahblahblahblah
18) OPTIONAL - undo the wiring loom a bit to get the stock GPS antenna signal cable freed up enough to reach the back of the RNS-E. Add to the proper part of the harness for clean installation look. No more need for a hockey puck antenna cluttering up your dashboard!
19) Just making sure you read all these directions BEFORE you start, I never said anywhere about the beer - feel free to imbibe to your heart's content while performing this procedure. Loosen yourself up and the nut removal in step 10 is nowhere near as bad
20) Jam the carpet/foam back in place, unwedge the passenger footwell outer plastic liner, jam that back into place and reinstall its mounting screws and plastic cap. You're done!
If this helped, you're welcome. If you want to take this writeup and add pictures, good for you!
Thanks!
O_E