Transmission Re-Build

[orcars6]

Floow up on mprevious thread of Tranny slip. Which started out from stationary into 1st. now 1st. 2nd. 3rd. and up. Ok. So, I believe I have now graduated to the 'big boys' and after timing belt/ numerous oil leak seals/ crush washers and the like....it is time for a tranny re-build and it will be remain auto and stock. Particles found in tranny oil- does this necessarily mean a complete re-build???

What are the options and other pertinent factors at hand.

Expert, experienced and insightful advise welcomed.

[orcars6]

Stealership has recommended a complete tranny swap from Audi Germany- are these re-built units upgraded???

[lswing]

Seems like it's your clutch material in the fluid, done. Use site:rs6.com added to a Google search, there are many articles on the trans rebuild shops and options.

[DHall1]

Bogus

What is the price?

Tozo ftw!

[orcars6]

8k - what do you suggest otherwise?

[lswing]

8k - what do you suggest otherwise?

$8k from an Audi dealer seems decent actually. I've heard numbers like $10-12k from an Audi dealership. Get the TC rebuilt while you're at it. And there are about 15 other things you should look at doing at this point. Basically time to refurbish the car. http://audirssix.com/index.php/overview/maintenance

If you go with Tozo or 517 you'll need to deal with your core trans, or hope they have one. Audi might not want to wait if you need them to pull your trans and send it out, it will be 3-4 weeks with shipping usually.

[orcars6]

They shared labor to some degree....due to the previous work and relationship we have had. I have done timing belt/ engine up-grades with them and much work with them since December 2014. Deal with 'Core trans' - what are you referring to?

Thx.

[Other_Erik]

They shared labor to some degree....due to the previous work and relationship we have had. I have done timing belt/ engine up-grades with them and much work with them since December 2014. Deal with 'Core trans' - what are you referring to?

Thx.

Transmission Core - aftermarket rebuilders will want your transmission shipped to them to rebuild if they don't have the 5HP24 in stock. If they have one in stock and already rebuilt, they will add a "Core Charge" (of $XXX-XXXX) before they send that out, which will be refunded when you send your old, bad transmission back to them, AND they figure out whether they can rebuild it or not. Basically to cover their loss if they need to buy another transmission for rebuilding purposes.

[Dmb408]

I don't want you to steal my (future) trans but last time I emailed with Tozo he had a prior owner's trans and tc already rebuilt and put together, waiting to drop in the next person's rs6 that blew up and reached out to him.

[orcars6]

Dealership gave my the transmission unit part number as 01L3000Z43EX. As far as new seals/ hardened parts etc. as expected- no info. just assumed.

I am tending to go with it/ TC included.

What do you all think????

[hahnmgh63]

This is what I found from www.genuineaudiparts.com
Part Number 01L300043EX
Part Name AUTOM TRAN
MSRP $5,066.64
Core $1,500.00
Online Price $4,711.99

[s8prtotype]

What are your plans for the car? if you're looking to mod it with a tune i'd honestly look into going the 517 route... if you're keeping it stock i'd get the dealer tranny, even tho the dealer tranny could possibly hold tuned power as well with it all being brand new.... hmmm. Wonder if the part number has superseded over the years at all.

[DHall1]

8k is fair from the dealer.

Do the dealer trans given your location.


8k - what do you suggest otherwise?

[wes]

hi guys, sorry a bit new to all of this, does anyone know what exactly what needs/requires upgrading in these transmissions for them to stop breaking/slipping/being a pain?

[Other_Erik]

hi guys, sorry a bit new to all of this, does anyone know what exactly what needs/requires upgrading in these transmissions for them to stop breaking/slipping/being a pain?

Biggest item is most likely already taken care of - the Torque Converter original design had a seal that would wear and break, usually between 40k and 100k miles. The TC wouldn't lock up properly (or is it that it would lock when it shouldn't? Early onset Alzheimer's is a bitch), and it would trash the trans. If your TC doesn't have an original date stamp on it, or your VIN for a US-delivered RS6 is above the ~905500 mark, you almost definitely have the newer better seal in the Torque Converter, and that's about all you can hope for.

You've got two options with a bad trans - rebuild or go manual 6sp 01E. There's not much in the way of hardening the transmission itself, though there was a nice example on rs246.com where a guy completely rebuilt his transmission, replacing every seal, clutch pack, wear disc, etc... - he's beefed it to the point that it could reliably handle 700 from the crank, but it was a full teardown and meticulous rebuild. IIRC, parts alone were ~3k pounds sterling. There's not a whole lot of budge room in the Z5HP24 to start with, and going with an extra millimeter here or there was about the only options he had available. We (thankfully) don't have a weak link in the transmission itself, other than the entire unit being built to handle X amount of power, and people forging ahead with tunes that deliver X +100 or more HP.

Everything here is such low supply / low production numbers / low numbers demand that I'm frankly surprised we have any aftermarket available to us at all. Even with a much more common car (my last was a 2002 Grand Prix GTP, supercharged 6-cyl from the factory), the aftermarket for hardened parts only covered the weak links (output shaft, axle halfshafts, SC rotors), and then big-build type stuff (lopey camshafts, whipple superchargers, SC pulleys, turbo kits, etc...)

We've got it good here, given the volume that an aftermarket supplier can hope to move (maximum of what, 600 units, if EVERY RS6 still on the road in the US got in on the action?).

The only other advice I can give on the trans - listen to the experts here (I am definitely NOT an expert), do the maintenance they recommend, and don't hammer on the car going stoplight to stoplight. Save the lead foot for the track (or the un-patrolled highways, Speed Limit "Reasonable" areas, etc...), and follow cold start warm-up procedures (let the car run for what, 3 minutes? on a cold start, ease into the gas until you reach operating temperatures, so on and so forth). Make that $10,000 grenade last a lifetime by treating it right.

Disclaimer: Everything above is an opinion, and I don't know enough about these cars to be considered an expert. I'm just barely above a novice. Listen to the experts!

O_E

[orcars6]

But one thing you are Erik is a considerate and 'on track' an asset to us all. Although Indy shops are a great option; AoA has made it easy with an approx. 2-3 week turn around. Storing the car in the interim/ shipping included/ a loaner (2015 Q5) for 3 weeks with no charge. I think I am going to go with it!

Thx. for the help people.

[DHall1]

Do the bufkin pipe at all costs while the engine is out

[orcars6]

Good point.


Do the bufkin pipe at all costs while the engine is out

[orcars6]

Best source for Bufkin pipe?

[lswing]

Best source for Bufkin pipe?

His contact info is on here. You can find it on eBay also. You may want to review a few of these items just to be sure. http://audirssix.com/index.php/overview/maintenance

[orcars6]

Great, thx.
His contact info is on here. You can find it on eBay also. You may want to review a few of these items just to be sure. http://audirssix.com/index.php/overview/maintenance