Pulling the trigger on the T-belt service - Question on R&R Valve Cover Gaskets

[cruzanrs6]

So I'm scheduled to have T-Belt service next week. I also picked up the valve cover gasket kit. While there isn't any major leaking, there is some weeping going on. I figured since it's going in for the other service , I'll have them look into replacing the gaskets. Well they came back with a concern/comment that according to Audi service guidelines, the engine needs to be pulled to be able to get to one side (don't know which one). Has any-one had their valve cover gaskets replaced ? I recall when I did the spark plugs (myself), it did not seem the much more to get to the valve covers. I can't imagine having to pull the engine for this.

Thanks -

[Other_Erik]

So I'm scheduled to have T-Belt service next week. I also picked up the valve cover gasket kit. While there isn't any major leaking, there is some weeping going on. I figured since it's going in for the other service , I'll have them look into replacing the gaskets. Well they came back with a concern/comment that according to Audi service guidelines, the engine needs to be pulled to be able to get to one side (don't know which one). Has any-one had their valve cover gaskets replaced ? I recall when I did the spark plugs (myself), it did not seem the much more to get to the valve covers. I can't imagine having to pull the engine for this.

Thanks -

Engine does not need to be pulled. IIRC there's a coolant hose that needs disconnected to get the passenger VC off. Just had mine done in August, so yep it's not an absolute requirement.

[Bigglezworth]

Valve cover gaskets can be swapped without dropping engine. MANY have done this. Yes it's a PITA, but it can be done. The coolant pipe that snakes along the passenger head can be gently 'flexed/pryed' away from the side of the head to permit removal of the valve cover. You need to remove the Allenhead fastener that fastenes the pipe to the head towards the front of the pipe, and the one that fastens on to the back of the head. Helps also to remove the fasteners for the fuel rail and lift the rails slightly so that you get that additional bit of clearance on the upper side.

[lswing]

Yep, when I first talked to a new shop in Austin they said, "well it says engine needs to be pulled", not the case as mentioned. Here are some things to look for also. Suggest doing cam adjust pads while in there...

http://audirssix.com/index.php/overview/maintenance

Site is running a bit slow at the moment, damned hosting company is normally good.

[Bigglezworth]

The cam tensioner shoes are not a straight forward repair that can be done at the same time as your valve covers are - unless - you also have the front clip in service position and are doing the timing belt. This is because you need to remove the cams in order to remove the tenioner in order to replace the shoes. Removing the cames requires removing the cam journals & sprockets, and removing the spockets requires removing the timing belt and front engine covers, Y-pipe, etc. Further, it is really difficult to get the passenger tensioner our if you still have the SAI system in place.

[Other_Erik]

The cam tensioner shoes are not a straight forward repair that can be done at the same time as your valve covers are - unless - you also have the front clip in service position and are doing the timing belt. This is because you need to remove the cams in order to remove the tenioner in order to replace the shoes. Removing the cames requires removing the cam journals & sprockets, and removing the spockets requires removing the timing belt and front engine covers, Y-pipe, etc. Further, it is really difficult to get the passenger tensioner our if you still have the SAI system in place.

There ya go, Cruzan - Biggz knows WTF he's talking about. Really really really wish he or someone with his skills lived in my geographic vicinity. Of course, they'd probably get tired of taking calls/texts/emails from me, because I obsess and worry about every little clunk, squeak, and rattle...

Thank you, sir.


Long story short - front bumper removed, front clip in service position, TBelt job (don't forget water pump and thermostat if they weren't replaced in the last 50k miles) should also include tensioner rollers and idler pulleys. Then what Biggz said about cam tensioners. While you're in that vicinity, don't forget cam seals and plugs. VC Gaskets don't require engine removal, just slight adjustments to all the crap they stack on top of the block instead of routing around (yes, I'm aware there's no room). Personally recommend visual inspection of vac lines and fittings. Get it all done now and save yourself the extra hours of labor charged for service position set/reset.

O_E