Source for reman. steering rack

[Turbowned]

Hey guys,

When it rains it pours. I knew my car was due for control arms. Today I was driving to my shop to do an oil change and I hit a pothole which I believe blew out my right front shock (makes that shuddering feel when going over bumps now). Tack on a set of Koni shocks to the "to-do" list. So, I got her up on jackstands and removed the right front wheel to have a look at some things, to discover there's a fairly significant leak from the RH steering rack boot. I guess this means I need a new steering rack? Can anyone recommend a good source for a replacement, or can I just replace the seal on that side? I have used rackdoctor.net in the past for my BMW and they list racks for the A6 4.2 and S6 but no RS6; not sure if there are differences? Thanks for the help!

http://www.shop.rackdoctor.net/A6-SERIES_c66.htm

[lswing]

I got my refurbished OEM rack from audiparts.com, something like that, located in SoCal. I believe you can only buy them refurbished from Audi, they are not offered "new". Anyhow, about $1,200.

So, we put that in and it failed two weeks later. This was after taking the engine out, on the next try we discovered you can replace the rack with engine in, just takes some ingenuity. Anyhow, AoA fought my warranty claim because an non-dealer mechanic put the rack in. After telling them how stupid this logic was for around 3 weeks or so, they had a meeting and gave me another steering rack. I still ate another $1k in labor.

Save your receipts, make sure your mechanic is good and knows there is a way to get those three bolts holding it in...

[DHall1]

if you think the damage was the pothole...turn into insurance

[lswing]

if you think the damage was the pothole...turn into insurance

I'd say all of this damage is obviously the pothole, glad he's got good insurance, whew, good call...:deal:

[Turbowned]

Also, if anyone's parting out an RS6 and has a good rack for sale, that's a welcome option, too. Thanks!

[Turbowned]

If I try to go thru insurance I'm afraid it'll show up as an accident on the CARFAX, no?

[lswing]

If I try to go thru insurance I'm afraid it'll show up as an accident on the CARFAX, no?

Doesn't matter to me as a buyer as long as receipts are there are repairs done correctly. Seems good to have new parts! There was a fellow parting a front collision RS6, the Canadian, can't find the contact right now, and rack may be bent anyhow.

[Other_Erik]

If I try to go thru insurance I'm afraid it'll show up as an accident on the CARFAX, no?

You say that like you'll ever sell the car. They'll have to pry my Beast's keys from my cold, dead hands. Be sure to ping your insurance for diminished value as well. Once they've paid out the claim, they _may_ require you to file your claim with your local road repair (VDOT in my case) - 9 months and still no satisfactory answer here...

O_E

[Turbowned]

Someone said the RS6 rack is the same as the allroad; can anyone confirm this? Is ours considered Servotronic?

Also, if it is possible (albeit tricky) to remove with engine in, tips or tricks to accomplishing this?

[Other_Erik]

Someone said the RS6 rack is the same as the allroad; can anyone confirm this? Is ours considered Servotronic?

Also, if it is possible (albeit tricky) to remove with engine in, tips or tricks to accomplishing this?

A6, S6, Allroad, and RS6 all used the same rack with one minor difference - input ratio
A6/S6/Allroad - 16.2:1
RS6: 14.3:1

All of these racks are 2.8 turns lock to lock, and are at least available in servotronic. Our stock rack is servotronic.

If you switch to a non-RS6 rack, there will be a direct affect to your turning radius (wheels won't turn as far outboard)


REMAN: $481 + $250 core
http://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/2003/Audi/RS6/Power_Steering_Rack/80-01433_R.html

HTH
O_E

[Dmb408]

I dont think it would be an accident. It'd be a comprehensive claim wouldn't it?

[Other_Erik]

I dont think it would be an accident. It'd be a comprehensive claim wouldn't it?

Liberty Mutual treated my pothole ordeal as an accident (rule of thumb: If the car is moving, it's probably not a comprehensive claim)

[lswing]

Generic answer is that it's collision coverage. Pay your $500 deductible and they can cover the other $4,500...

https://www.google.com/search?q=hit+pothole+insurance+claim&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

[lswing]

Also, if it is possible (albeit tricky) to remove with engine in, tips or tricks to accomplishing this?

It's possible, I'll see if I can get some info from my mechanic. He was determined as he didn't want to pull the engine that was just put back in two weeks prior...also had more perspective on how it went together. Maybe a heat shield or something protecting one of the bolts, get that out and it's doable, something like that.

[Turbowned]

It's collision coverage. I called them to report the incident but have not decided whether or not to use them to repair it or not. It is a "not-at-fault" incident so it does not affect my premium.

lswing if you can find out it would be supremely helpful. If it's remotely possible to DIY I will keep this off my insurance as I plan to do the suspension arms and shocks all at once. Good thing I have the (tinny and slow) Subaru to drive in the meantime!

[k2switch23]

got one, from my part out, comes with tie end rods, car had 58k miles. PM me if interested

[Turbowned]

Excellent! OK, so that means I should have a good used rack.

[Turbowned]

Ordered Konis, strut tops and control arms yesterday in addition to the used rack. Gonna be a big project. I really hope there's a way to do the rack without pulling the motor or else I'm gonna think about holding out for downpipes and intercoolers while the motor's out. Anything else I should consider getting that's related to the steering system; lines, fittings? I'll assess the condition of the tie rods and bellows when the rack gets here, but probably good practice to replace them anyway.

[hahnmgh63]

4B7422052CX The 'X' at the end of an Audi part number reflects it as being a remanufactured part. If you want a Genuine rebuilt part Miramar Audi has it for $973.65 www.genuineaudiparts.com
Or http://www.vwpartsdept.com/OEMParts/volkswagen-157/4/4B7422052CX.html a little less from VW themselves.

[Turbowned]

$357 shipped to my door for the 58k mile used rack and no core charge to worry about. Not bad!

It might be possible to access the hard-to-reach top bolts of the rack by removing the rubber boot for the steering column into the firewall and accessing them through the driver's footwell. If so, engine may not need to come out, and that would save me so much time and aggravation. I'd like to avoid puilling the motor until the next t-belt is due in 18k miles, at which point I'll take care of all the known failure points with the engine out of the car, and maybe start converting to 6MT! Will start work sometime next week when all the parts arrive.

[hahnmgh63]

Don't forget to Locktite the bolts when you do re-install.

[Turbowned]

Duly noted!

[lswing]

I'll try and get the non-engine removal tips from my mech, in another state now...

[Turbowned]

I got it out!! No engines were removed in the process. By removing the two top bolts securing the rack, turning the rack in the tunnel slightly, and removing the rubber boot on the firewall, a friend was able to shine a light in through the driver's footwell on that hidden bolt and guide my ratchet and socket onto it from the driver's side wheelwell. There's only enough clearance to get about one or two clicks of the ratchet per turn (depends on the quality of the ratchet, too) so it's a very slow process, and once the bolt gets loose enough it will turn both ways, so I had to get my finger in there and get it out the last couple threads. Once everything is un-bolted the rack just needs to be snaked out through the driver's side wheelwell. With nearly all of the suspension removed from the car already, the rack removal itself took about two hours. I'm going to take this opportunity to clean and degrease the front wheelwells to get rid of 12 years of built-up grime before re-installing everything.

The biggest question I have is: how important is that third bolt to the integrity of the steering rack? Do I reaaaally need to put it back in?

[Other_Erik]

I got it out!! No engines were removed in the process. By removing the two top bolts securing the rack, turning the rack in the tunnel slightly, and removing the rubber boot on the firewall, a friend was able to shine a light in through the driver's footwell on that hidden bolt and guide my ratchet and socket onto it from the driver's side wheelwell. There's only enough clearance to get about one or two clicks of the ratchet per turn (depends on the quality of the ratchet, too) so it's a very slow process, and once the bolt gets loose enough it will turn both ways, so I had to get my finger in there and get it out the last couple threads. Once everything is un-bolted the rack just needs to be snaked out through the driver's side wheelwell. With nearly all of the suspension removed from the car already, the rack removal itself took about two hours. I'm going to take this opportunity to clean and degrease the front wheelwells to get rid of 12 years of built-up grime before re-installing everything.

The biggest question I have is: how important is that third bolt to the integrity of the steering rack? Do I reaaaally need to put it back in?

First, congrats on getting the rack out without engine pull! Very nice!

Second, would you trust a wheel attached with only two bolts? Maybe take this opportunity to come up with a better way to re-attach the 3rd bolt?

O_E

[lswing]

I got it out!! No engines were removed in the process. By removing the two top bolts securing the rack, turning the rack in the tunnel slightly, and removing the rubber boot on the firewall, a friend was able to shine a light in through the driver's footwell on that hidden bolt and guide my ratchet and socket onto it from the driver's side wheelwell. There's only enough clearance to get about one or two clicks of the ratchet per turn (depends on the quality of the ratchet, too) so it's a very slow process, and once the bolt gets loose enough it will turn both ways, so I had to get my finger in there and get it out the last couple threads. Once everything is un-bolted the rack just needs to be snaked out through the driver's side wheelwell. With nearly all of the suspension removed from the car already, the rack removal itself took about two hours. I'm going to take this opportunity to clean and degrease the front wheelwells to get rid of 12 years of built-up grime before re-installing everything.

The biggest question I have is: how important is that third bolt to the integrity of the steering rack? Do I reaaaally need to put it back in?

Sweet! Glad to hear it. Sounds like how my mechanic described it...along with some cursing about how lucky I was that they did the job in 10 hours instead of the 30 book...good time to update bushings, brakes, lines and associated front end parts.

[Turbowned]

Oh yes, I have already gotten all 8 front control arms, sway bar endlinks, Koni struts, and strut mounts. I might do wheel bearings while I'm in there. Eventually brake lines and a fluid flush.

[Turbowned]

I fiddled with the third bolt for about an hour last night; had a friend guide the bolt into its home using a magnet, then started turning it (or so I thought) with a wrench... until it fell out and I realized it wasn't actually threading all along. D'oh! What a PITA; I'll tackle it again this weekend. I know it's do-able, though. I just need a shorter 12pt socket than the one I have, and I think I can finagle it. Still less work than engine removal, LOL

[Turbowned]

Whew! Was able to get that pesky bolt into it's home and tightened down after messing with it for nearly an hour. I found that when I tightened the two top bolts it was misaligning the hole for the bottom bolt, so after loosening them I was able to get it threaded and tightened up. Now as soon as the tie rods, boots and fluid arrive I can get the rest of it together and test it out.

[lswing]

Whew! Was able to get that pesky bolt into it's home and tightened down after messing with it for nearly an hour. I found that when I tightened the two top bolts it was misaligning the hole for the bottom bolt, so after loosening them I was able to get it threaded and tightened up. Now as soon as the tie rods, boots and fluid arrive I can get the rest of it together and test it out.

Excellent! I'll have to add this to the maintenance section of my website. One more repair without the engine removal!

[Turbowned]

Got the lines hooked back up last night and assembled the front strut assemblies with the Koni struts and new upper control arms last night. The old control arm bushings were completely toast; I'm really excited to feel how the car drives with all new suspension components up front! Inner and outer tie rods, rack bellows and Audi PS fluid dropped at my house today so I hope to have everything buttoned up and get a fresh alignment by the weekend. *fingers crossed*

This project has been taking extra time because A. I work too much and my garage isn't close to home, and B. because I'm taking my time cleaning and de-greasing everything as I go along. A lot of cruddy buildup occurred in the wheel wells and undercarriage over 12 years and 85,000 miles. Now the underside of the car looks *almost* as good as the shiny side!