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View Full Version : So I broke the oil/trans cooler. What to do next?



Fastguy
March 8th, 2015, 02:23
Sorry about the double posting but I couldn't find a way to change the title of my previous post. Wanted the thread to get the right attention, and hopefully some answers.

So at least with a little research I found out exactly what I broke. I kinda knew anyway but wanted to confirm it is an oil/trans cooler. Looks like oil comes in from the right side and trans from left. Found this:

http://www.fluidmotorunion.com/archives/5527

Looks very cool, but since I am going to 6MT I will no longer need the trans cooler side. Can anyone suggest what approach I should take with this? I thought I was being careful, but twisting the compression fitting right off the cooler.

16110

lswing
March 8th, 2015, 04:08
Seems the easy answer would be to fab an oil cooler, just like the FMU, but ditch the trans part...I've looked into both those pieces before, plenty of custom radiator shops out there.

Fastguy
March 8th, 2015, 04:33
what do you think about this? Does it look like it would work?

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-RS6--4.2T/Engine/Cooling/Oil_Cooler/ES2764288/

SteveKen
March 8th, 2015, 05:23
See some information here.

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/25661-S6-conversion-to-RS6?p=260496&viewfull=1#post260496

I used one from an E30 M3 and had some custom lines made up.

It does take a good bit of fabrication to get it mounted and the lines to be happy when routing.

Bigglezworth
March 8th, 2015, 14:50
Yep. Snapped the lower passenger side off trying to remove the braided lines. This has been discussed on the forum a few times. Steel coupling and alumium bung. Bad mix. All the members who have removed their engines over the last few years simple leave the lines attached and only disconnect them at the filter take-off point. Ensures what you have had happen doesn't happen...

As for repair, you can easily repair this by having another bung welded on by a qualified aluminum welder. Given that you are removing the 5Tip for a 6MT, you can elect to replace the entire cooler with a different oil cooler (lots available at speed shops) or look for a quasi OEM fit by getting something from another Audi, BMW, or Benz.

Fastguy
March 8th, 2015, 15:43
Looked all over. Couldn't find anything specific other than that link I posted about that company fabricating their own.

I've pulled engines before and I prefer everything being completely out of the way. I would have to pull the trans side lines off anyway as they will no long be there with the manual installed (trying to make myself feel better about breaking one of the first things I take apart on this car). I think the best route is to get it all the way off today (no matter if I break the other fittings) and get an aftermarket univeral cooler for just the passenger oil side. Would like to use new lines as well. These don't look to be in the best shape. It seems expensive for what it is, but I will probably end up getting that ECS universal cooler and lines. Comes with the engine side cooler as well.

I'm taking plenty of pics to I can share the info if anyone else ever needs it.

hahnmgh63
March 8th, 2015, 22:19
Sorry I didn't pipe in earlier. On those lines I usually pre-treat the day prior with (my favorite) Kroil but PB Blaster or WD-40 may also work. Then I take out the Propane torch and just head up the outside fitting (the part your putting the wrench on) a little, not enough to affect the rubber lines but it doesn't take much heat to loosen/expand the metal and they come off fairly easily.