So it has begun.

[Fastguy]

I started disassembling the front of the car this afternoon to begin my project. Here is my plan:

6MT swap
Turbos rebuilt
Remove SAI/EGR, rear 02's
Open downpipes
VC gaskets, tb service, water pump, pulleys, etc
If I can find them, replace the boost hoses with silicone (coming from 2.7 and everything available in complete sets) assuming will need to purchase each hose individually?
intercoolers re-cored.
*EDIT* now adding the bufkin upgrade aluminum connector, 2.0 coil packs and adapters, and meth injection to lower IATs with the re-cored stock SMIC.

I ran into my first issue. I'm impatient at times. This is the result:

16109

I struggled, and was going to attempt heat, but these fittings would not budge....and there is no hold-back point on the cooler itself. I was forced to hold the cooler with a pair of channel locks while wrenching on the fitting with an open-end wrench. As you can see, it didn't turn out well.

I'm assuming this is a combo oil/trans cooler? Is there a part number for the radiator? When complete I will no longer have an automatic transmission...if this is also a trans cooler what should I replace it with?

[lswing]

Change the pads for the cam chain adjusters, and associated seals. Blauparts has a nice kit for around $180. There is also the oil/coolant exchange pipe, made by James Bufkin, aluminum instead of plastic for $25. Upgrading the IC hoses never hurts; Venair makes a nice kit for around $200. Good luck, looks like you're in deep now! You going with AMD or EPL for the ECU tune and code clearing?

This general maintenance page has some info and links also. http://audirssix.com/index.php/overview/maintenance

Be interested on what you go with for wastegate pressure also.

[Fastguy]

I'll order the cam chain adjuster pads separately and I was going to order this kit: http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GH21132-1-C

As for that little fitting...where exactly does that go? I am coming from the 2.7 and everything I do makes me relate to it. On the 2.7 the oil cooler is a little device that allows the coolant to run through where the oil filter sits. That radiator I broke the fitting from...that the engine oil cooler only? What recommendation do you have for that repair or replacement on reinstallation? It'll be a while before I am to that point...but I like to figure out and order parts as I break them so I'm not waiting for days on reassembly. Also, I forgot to add to the list that I am installed a devils own meth injection kit that I had intended for my built engine that is now sold.

I am going with a friend that tunes 2.7's. He is a GOD with them, and has the capability to repair clusters, recode and tune TCU's and ECU's. His tune has been moving my 2.7 for over a year (I still have two A6's besides the newly acquired RS). He is also going to have the RS turbos redone and built with good stuff. I trust him implicitly. I am sending him the intercoolers and the turbos to have both redone. He is getting the cores upgraded in the intercoolers. I'll have him tune me remotely just as he does with the 2.7's. I could actually probably code out the egr, sai, and 02's myself with a little research (it's been a while since I worked with the maps in tunerpro), but I have done it. Tuning is a whole different story. Takes an expert to tune, log, tweak, log, tweak, log, etc.

[hahnmgh63]

On the 4.2 40V motors (including the A8/S8) the Cooler is on the front right side, just in front of the oil filter mount. Behind the oil cooler there is a short (2.5") plastic pipe (coolant) that cycles coolant into the engine mounted oil cooler (2 oil coolers, engine mounted and front mounted as you found out siamesed with the ATF cooler). The small plastic pipe gets brittle with age/heat and starts to leak. You pretty much have to drop the engine to get at it as it is real tight in there with the right engine mount. The Bufkin pipe mentioned is also improve as it has double O-rings on either end besides being made out of Aluminum.

[Fastguy]

On the 4.2 40V motors (including the A8/S8) the Cooler is on the front right side, just in front of the oil filter mount. Behind the oil cooler there is a short (2.5") plastic pipe (coolant) that cycles coolant into the engine mounted oil cooler (2 oil coolers, engine mounted and front mounted as you found out siamesed with the ATF cooler). The small plastic pipe gets brittle with age/heat and starts to leak. You pretty much have to drop the engine to get at it as it is real tight in there with the right engine mount. The Bufkin pipe mentioned is also improve as it has double O-rings on either end besides being made out of Aluminum.

Ok. That makes sense. Something I'm sure I will see (and upgrade) as I have the engine out. Good time to do it. Now just have to decide what to do with the cooler I broke. Is that cooler really necessary since there is one at the engine as well?

[s8prtotype]

Your buddy doing the intercoolers can most likely repair it at the same time. Still got the part that broke?

[Fastguy]

Your buddy doing the intercoolers can most likely repair it at the same time. Still got the part that broke?

Yep, it might be difficult to get out of the hose. It broke off in there because it was so tight. I don't see how in the world I would ever be able to get it out of there. I think

[s8prtotype]

You could just get away with an oil cooler up front only since you're doing a tranny swap. I'd definately not delete the oil cooler on this car. So you'll have to custom fab something if you can't fix it.

[Fastguy]

If I can't find one for cheaper, I found that ECS has a universal one that looks like it will work.

[Bigglezworth]

Do yourself a favor and get your mind out of 2.7 land..... This is different - period.

Also, there is a host of information on every possible thing you are thinking about doing. Search is your friend.

Best of success with your efforts. I just completed servicing/repairing everything you have on your list plus a few other items on one of the rides I have here... Slow and steady wins the race.

[Corbett]

16109



Why are you running green coolant in an RS6?

[Fastguy]

Why are you running green coolant in an RS6?
I am not. Previous owner had, I have the pink stuff siting on the shelf. Actually haven't driven the car at all. Won't move.

[lswing]

Just to mention it, the search here doesn't yield much. Use google and add "site:rs6.com"...best of luck on your adventure!

[rrooccaa]

s8prtotype
you have a pm bro

[Fastguy]

Only 12 hours and she's ready to drop. All that remains is one banjo bolt on the ps pump, and the subframe bolts. IC already gone to get re-cored. As soon as engine is out turbos coming off and getting sent away to have them built. Then it's time for the 6mt swap to begin. Just need to figure out clutch setup and order an adapter kit from steveken next week!
16111

[TMAC]

Cool, looks like you are having fun!

[Fastguy]

All disconnected except for that bundle down near the alternator and runs up along through the firewall. Have to see where it goes and best way to disconnect it. But my question now; this big bastard will actually clear the frame if I gently lower it as the frame will sit much higher? It looks like a REALLY tight fit. Almost like it won't clear entirely. 1611216113

[Bigglezworth]

All disconnected except for that bundle down near the alternator and runs up along through the firewall. Have to see where it goes and best way to disconnect it. But my question now; this big bastard will actually clear the frame if I gently lower it as the frame will sit much higher? It looks like a REALLY tight fit. Almost like it won't clear entirely.

You need to disconnect the wiring from the starter, alternator, and engine ground. Always a bit of a fuss, but this is where it needs to be removed from. Oh, and yes the engine lowers just fine between the frame rails. Yes it's tight, but it does lower.

[Fastguy]

She's finally down. Now to just disconnect the shifter from inside the car and it will drop out and pull out with the trans?

BTW...that is the WORST place I have ever seen a starter. I had to devise a crazy wrench to get to the electrical connector. Insane. Took me a full 30 minutes to disconnect the power lead to it. I am glad steveken kit comes with a new one.

16126

[Bigglezworth]

lol Get's easier the second and third time.....

You should have been able to remove the power to the starter and a set of bent nose needlenose pliers works to remove the line to the solenoid. Also, as a 'cheat', you can also remove the side mount oil cooler (which you WILL want to remove anyway to replace the plastic coolant pipe with a milled aluminum pipe), and then you have all the room in the world.

I've often wondered why the engineers didn't design a simple disconnect at a higher point that would make servicing easier (I use the term loosely as it's a chore to remove and then some).

Also, I see you're using a diagonal lift point. The tranny is quite heavy and counter balances the weight of the engine well. Your center of gravity to make it easier to lift out with the crane is at the back of the heads for both lift points.

[Fastguy]

lol Get's easier the second and third time.....

You should have been able to remove the power to the starter and a set of bent nose needlenose pliers works to remove the line to the solenoid. Also, as a 'cheat', you can also remove the side mount oil cooler (which you WILL want to remove anyway to replace the plastic coolant pipe with a milled aluminum pipe), and then you have all the room in the world.



Funny you say this. I did exactly that....removed solenoid power with bent long reach needlenose. After some pondering, I also removed the boost pipe, the oil cooler, and still had issue actually getting enough room to turn the wrench with no room because of the bent eyelet connector. What a cluster. All the time with oil dripping in my face. Not fun. It's done now and the engine is basically on the ground. All that is left is to figure out how to separate the two piece drive shaft from the transmission. all the bolts are out, it's just stuck on there. I'm guessing it's going to take some pretty good whacks with a hammer. Then I think the shifter box takes four nuts from above and then it will drop out the bottom leaving it attached to the trans?

[Bigglezworth]

Yes you need to remove the boost pipe and oil filter cooler take-off.

The Central CV joint will release with some whacking yes. Use a brass head hammer, or a block of wood as part of your solution though so that you don't distort the CV joint.

The shifter doesn't need to be removed. You unclip the cable from the PRNDL level. Use a long prybar or large flat head screw driver. Just pops off. Bitch to get back on - word of the warning....

[Fastguy]

I think I already removed the oil filter cooler...the one at the engine along with the pipes leading to the front oil cooler radiator - laying on the floor. As for the cv drive shaft joint - thought I recalled having to pound on it on the removal of the donor car parts. No extremely worried about damage as I will no longer be needing the old trans, shifter, or drive shaft. Don't want to damage and will try not to but not the end of the world if it happens. I don't care about getting the shifter back on the trans either - won't need to. Installing the 01e never to look at this beastly tip again! Thanks again for your input.

On to the part of the build....this weekend will be trans removal, turbo removal, exhaust manifold removal. Will send the turbos off to be built and get the manifolds ceramic coated.

[Fastguy]

....and....she's out! around 16 hours but removed the shifter, ic's, dp's also.

16127

[ttboost]

Gets faster every time. I was down to about 5 hours for engine and trans removal. Hard to see if you did, but you need to disconnect all the power wiring in the passenger side cowl, them remove the ECU and harness in the drivers side cowl. Lay everything on the engine and drop it out. As you know now, it fits very tightly between the "walls". Be very careful putting it back in, only have a an inch or two on each side to play with. You will have much more room with the O1E later, and it's lighter...by about 100lbs.

[Fastguy]

crank bolts kind of a bitch. very tight. had to grind all but two off and then remove with channel locks.
16177

Used stevekens procedure and threaded the bushing to remove it. Now on to valve covers and components. Decided to remove cams to replace tensioner pads. They looked to be in very poor condition.

1617816180

Right now I'm cleaning off the valve covers of the shitty red paint applied by previous owner. Blasting and powder coating stock cast aluminum color. Why not?

16179

Next, is the tool blauparts references as t40009 for this pulley. Guess I'll have to look in the bentley. Not really sure what the tensioning procedure is for this. All I know is that the blau directions said to use a tool, line it up the with water pump pulley, and torque the bolt to 16 lbs....if I read it correctly.

16181

[Fastguy]

Slowly coming together. So far;
timing belt,
water pump,
tstat,
all pulleys,
new 710n diverters,
ceramic coated exhaust manifolds,
stern mounts,
meth injectors installed,
valve covers,
cam seals,
new screens on bottom of cam tensioners,
new cam tensioner pads,
new serpentine,
powder coated vc's and front snub bracket,
new coolant temp sensor,
new coolant pipe orings,
egr delete with 034 block off plates,
new ngk plugs,
r8 coil adapters and coils
....think that's most of it for now.

Waiting on steveken kit, new turbos and newly cored intercoolers. Next is to install the pedals (which I'm nervous about), line to the trunk for the meth kit, install new bosch 550 ev14 injectors, install 044 fuel pump, clear primary cats, and custom made and welded test pipe for secondaries, have new two new front 02 sensors ready to go in and two wideband for the rear, remove a few more pipes from the hot weather radiators behind the intercoolers.

16278

[Bigglezworth]

Aluminum oil cooler pile (Buffkin or similar)?? SAI delete? Front and rear crank seals? Also, why did you delete the EGT's?

[ttboost]

For me, the hardest part of the manual swap... was the pedals...

[ttboost]

Aluminum oil cooler pile (Buffkin or similar)?? SAI delete? Front and rear crank seals? Also, why did you delete the EGT's?

He deleted the egR's not not the egT's...although I deleted MY EGT's because they go bad all the time, too expensive, and you don't really NEED them...

[Fastguy]

He deleted the egR's not not the egT's...although I deleted MY EGT's because they go bad all the time, too expensive, and you don't really NEED them...
Deleted both EGR and EGT (actually the EGT will be deleted on reassembly with a simple code-out) exactly for the reason you just said.

[Fastguy]

Aluminum oil cooler pile (Buffkin or similar)?? SAI delete? Front and rear crank seals? Also, why did you delete the EGT's?

Yes; on reassembly, after the turbos and starter are in, I will use those little buffkin couplers. I will also use a different oil cooler up front because I broke the oem tran/oil cooler when taking it apart. I won't need the trans cooler side anyway. SAI will be coded out and gone as well on reassembly. Rear crank seal will be done after I get the engine back on a table for trans mounting. Can't do it with it on the stand. I didn't do the front seal because I didn't think in advance...impossible to get that front crank bolt out with the engine on the stand. 200 ft lbs on the stand is bound to break something or tip the whole damn engine over.

[fukinavit]

Yes; on reassembly, after the turbos and starter are in, I will use those little buffkin couplers. I will also use a different oil cooler up front because I broke the oem tran/oil cooler when taking it apart. I won't need the trans cooler side anyway. SAI will be coded out and gone as well on reassembly. Rear crank seal will be done after I get the engine back on a table for trans mounting. Can't do it with it on the stand. I didn't do the front seal because I didn't think in advance...impossible to get that front crank bolt out with the engine on the stand. 200 ft lbs on the stand is bound to break something or tip the whole damn engine over.

With the engine out, a 3/4 impact will get the bolt out. As for reassembly, I made a tool from 3/8 flat bar, bolted it to the crank where the pulley bolts to and the other end to the top alternator bolt, left it long enough so I could hang onto it , then torque turned it with my 3/4 long handle ratchet.

[Fastguy]

Got the turbos and recored intercoolers today. IC's look quite a bit larger and are bulky compared to stock. Turbos seem well built. In the one pic I threw in the stock rs6 k04's, new turbos, and an original k03 from 2.7 for comparison.

1632816329

[Aronis]

This is an excellent story to watch unfold. You guys who pull your own engine are GODS.

More photos please....LOL.....

In fact I DEMAND you obtain a Canon 1DX and 50 mm f1.4 lens and take ultra high resolution pictures, dam it!

Mike

[Dmb408]

If your intercoolers end up going in fine, i.e. the bulky comment you made is no big deal, can you let us know who rebuilt them for you? Thanks. Did you have the warm weather package and if so are you putting the secondary radiators back on the back?

[Fastguy]

These are supposed to be way more efficient and less heat soak. I think there will be no problem fitting them as I'm removing the warm weather package, and all associated hoses as I saw in one of stevekens posts.

I have been trying to post progress pics as I go....and I do have a better camera but I've actually taken these with my iphone and they turn out pretty damn good. Only issue is I can't upload larger than 2mb so I usually have to resize and reformat to gif. Want other pics would you like to see?

[s8prtotype]

add the photobucket app to your phone, upload them to that and just attach the image link. although i still have to resize them so i just wait until i'm on the computer to do it.

[BigD2500HD]

Following.
From "Audi c5 group"

[Aronis]

These are supposed to be way more efficient and less heat soak. I think there will be no problem fitting them as I'm removing the warm weather package, and all associated hoses as I saw in one of stevekens posts.

I have been trying to post progress pics as I go....and I do have a better camera but I've actually taken these with my iphone and they turn out pretty damn good. Only issue is I can't upload larger than 2mb so I usually have to resize and reformat to gif. Want other pics would you like to see?

I was just kidding. :)

Great project.

[Fastguy]

more updates. still moving ahead as parts continue to arrive. In case anyone ever wondered about it, you can save yourself approximately $300 on the rear main seal. When I first searched I found that one could only purchase the entire rear aluminum flange along with the actual rubber seal. Out of curiosity I pulled out a micrometer and found the dimensions identical to the 2.7t rear main seal. Fits like a charm.
16434

Cleaned up the wonderful aluminum front subframe:

before
16435
After
16436

Pedals and clutch master cylinder installed and set. Pulled driveshaft, cleaned and prepped 6mt driveshaft for installation. If the bearings fall out..it's a pain in the ass to get them back properly and grease on EVERYTHING! Cleaned it all up with WD40 and will repack with new cv grease.

16437

Going to get the front rotors turned. Blasted centers and high temp paint. the face of the rotors look pretty rough. If they say can't be turned, I guess I'll have to spring for new rotors. Will do new pads for sure.

1643816439

[lswing]

Nice! Let me know when you're done so I can buy it...

[Fastguy]

One thing's for sure; No stone left unturned on this bad boy. I like it clean and pay attention to detail. If something is missed and I'm pulling the engine again I have only one person to blame.

[Fastguy]

Rear main seal done, flywheel mounted, adapter, starter and clutch next!
16442

[hahnmgh63]

Didn't see it covered but which Clutch are you going with and what tune? I haven't decided on my Clutch yet so I'm taking a poll.

[Fastguy]

Been having a super tough time deciding. So many mixed reviews. Must be able to handle in excess of the 600 ft/lbs im going to throw at it but at the same time be somewhat drivable. So far, it seems like the built to order southbend stage 4 extreme is the one. Supposedly hold up to 800ftlb but after a hellish break-in be very friendly for daily driving (according to a post I read from an 034 employee in charge of testing these). Downside is it's very expensive as far as clutches are concerned. Probably one of the most expensive for this combo of trans/car

[hahnmgh63]

I'm leaning towards the AMD Stage 3plus Clutch kit. Fairly reasonable at $800. Not sure if it is a Clutchmasters or possibly Spec.
Here's Avus RS6's car on the Dyno at AMD:
http://www.fastaudi.com/tuning-videos/frenchs-rs6-dyno-tuning-street-pull/

[Other_Erik]

Rear main seal done, flywheel mounted, adapter, starter and clutch next!

Looking sharp! Loving the braided line plumbing. One day, when money is no object, will be time for me to grab a crate and replumb with Aeroquip lines. Until then, I'll continue to drool over projects like yours. Can't wait to see the finished product and how big the smile on your face will be the first time you can drop the hammer (AFTER the break-in period, of course!)

O_E

[s8prtotype]

Erik that's all stock stuff haha

[Other_Erik]

Erik that's all stock stuff haha

Too used to seeing front/top of engine, where all the tubing is rubber (and I'm just waiting for it to rot) :| Guess it makes sense, given the ridiculous heat cycling that gets done that far back in the bay.

O_E

[bethridg]

Been having a super tough time deciding. So many mixed reviews. Must be able to handle in excess of the 600 ft/lbs im going to throw at it but at the same time be somewhat drivable. So far, it seems like the built to order southbend stage 4 extreme is the one. Supposedly hold up to 800ftlb but after a hellish break-in be very friendly for daily driving (according to a post I read from an 034 employee in charge of testing these). Downside is it's very expensive as far as clutches are concerned. Probably one of the most expensive for this combo of trans/car


I'm leaning towards the AMD Stage 3plus Clutch kit. Fairly reasonable at $800. Not sure if it is a Clutchmasters or possibly Spec.
Here's Avus RS6's car on the Dyno at AMD:
http://www.fastaudi.com/tuning-videos/frenchs-rs6-dyno-tuning-street-pull/

I'm in the same boat. Here's all the info I've collected over the last few days.

I'm still leaning towards AMD but split between Stage 3 and Stage 3+. Am I willing to sacrifice a little longevity and possible on/off engagement for more holding power. I don't see much track time but I tend to be an aggressive driver in this car. A meth kit is still on my to-do list after the 6-speed swap so I have to take that into account also.

Keep the updates coming!!! You guys are slightly ahead of me in this project and all the detail helps with pre-planning.


<tbody>
Description
Model
Rating
MSRP
Cost
Source
Notes


South Bend Stage 4+ xtreme
KF70286F-SS-X (comes with flywheel?)
600 (from 034motorsport store)



kevin(crank 520bhp/530lb-ft)
SteveKen?
N_Stamp (only 5k miles?)
716YETI
Korben007?


Spec Stage 3+
SA863F
689
899.1
899.1
ebay
~1000 mile break-in
ttboost(450-480awhp/550-580awtq holds strong)
RAUDI
Zmey


AMD Stage 3

725
799.95
799.95
fastaudi.com (http://fastaudi.com)
Organic

P1054(460awhp/530awtq reports a little chatter)


AMD Stage 3+

825
799.95
799.95
fastaudi.com (http://fastaudi.com)
Ceramic


AMD/Clutchmasters stage 4

850
799.95
799.95
fastaudi.com (http://fastaudi.com)
Avus-RS6(515awhp/635awtq)


Clutchmaster FX400 8 puck
FX400: 02029-HDCL

799
719.1
ebay
street; don't think anyone is actually running the FX400 just saw it referenced


Clutchmaster FX400 6 puck
FX400: 02029-HDC6
575???
799
719.1
ebay
street/race more aggressive

</tbody>

[Fastguy]

I've read 034's review of the southbend s4 extreme and he gave it very good reviews. What I was surprised to see was it's holding power in addition to it's supposed drivability after break in.

with the power/torque I'm hoping to make (close to if not over 600 tq to the wheels), anything with stage 3 or 3+ in the title ( I was told) will not hold with the monster torque of this engine. I even witnessed a video of one of these clutches slipping at highway speeds on an rs at slightly more than stage 1 power. I'm going to be on larger injectors, larger turbos, fully open dp's, larger intercoolers, larger fuel pump, and meth injection. I was told the turbos in addition to the timing available as a result of the meth and ic's, that it will be no problem making 600. The thought of a clutch slipping makes me feel nervous just thinking about it. Having to pull the engine again before I even really get to drive the thing for a bit.

I had a brand new clutchmasters fx400 six puck in the garage waiting to go into my 600 hp (not torque mind you) 2.7t (that went out the window as soon as I picked up this rs), and my expert friend said this torque of this built rs would eat that clutch for lunch.

SO...that's led me to either AMD's max clutch which was a stage 4 OR the southbend stage 4 extreme. I've left it up to my friend to decide as he's building one at the same time. I believe he's chosen the southbend....which was actually my 1st choice after reading the 034 review.

[s8prtotype]

I'd go with something in the 800hp range an over build it lol

[hahnmgh63]

bethridg, good breakdown of the Clutches. I think the FX400 would be plenty for a stock or Stage 1 chipped RS6 but anymore than that and.... I'm bumping up the Boost a little with the AMD over the Eurocharged I'm running plus I have bigger Intercoolers and reworked Turbos (scroll) that have Boosted to 23psi (unhooked pressure control line) before I went into Limp mode. I'll probably not run over 18psi but I may also go to a Water/Meth injection by AMD. I've seen the way they plumbed it into Avus RS6's car (the one in the Video on the Dyno) and the install was nice and unobtrusive.

[Fastguy]

Ok. Over built. Four puck clamping powah!

1645516456

[fukinavit]

nice!

gonna have a great workout with those frantic 1,2 shifts and a left leg that Arnie would have been proud of!

[hahnmgh63]

Nice, see you've got the SAI blockoff plates too.

[Fastguy]

In case you're wondering, that isn't apple juice in the cup. It's 15 year scotch that goes great with engine work.

[bethridg]

Ok. Over built. Four puck clamping powah!

1645516456

For reference, do you have a part number and advertised torque rating? Or was it special order?

[Dmb408]

In case you're wondering, that isn't apple juice in the cup. It's 15 year scotch that goes great with engine work.

It's funny over the weekend, I looked at this on my phone and saw the cup and was going to say, "oh you got some dalwhinnie there?"

[Fastguy]

For reference, do you have a part number and advertised torque rating? Or was it special order?
It was special order as in built to order. Rating over 800 hp. I was told it won't be that bad to drive when broken in because it's sprung and a steel instead of an aluminum flywheel helps also

[Fastguy]

Thought I would throw a few pics out there. Got home at 3 am last night. All I could think about was the newly-arrived 01e tdi while I was away. Went out first thing and got a few pics to share. amazing; the size difference.

16578

16579

And the pipes:

16580

[SteveKen]

Do you have the capability to weigh both transmissions to quantify the difference?

Also, if your downpipes are anything like mine, there still might be some interference with the driver's side trans bracket that requires clearance of the bracket and/or placing a strategic dent in the downpipe where it would otherwise hit the bracket. On 716YETI's car, I was able to confirm that the Milltek downpipes do not require any clearancing.

Lastly, if your pipes are like mine, the driver's oxygen sensor had the potential to hit the shifter linkage in 5th & 6th gear. I solved this with a torch and by putting a 1/2 in. extension inside a spark plug antifouler and just bent the sensor bung back.

Here are some pictures of before and after:

before (in neutral)
http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/blackS6/misc/01E_linkage_positions.JPG


after (now in 5th with the bung bent back and up a bit)
http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/blackS6/misc/new_01E_linkage_positions.JPG

[hahnmgh63]

I have the Catless Milltek's and there are no clearance issues. For a real Quantitative number we need the weigh of the tranny, TC with flex plate and starter compared to the 6spd with flywheel, clutch, and starter.

[Fastguy]

I have the Catless Milltek's and there are no clearance issues. For a real Quantitative number we need the weigh of the tranny with flex plate and starter compared to the 6spd with flywheel, clutch, and starter.
Unless I throw it in the back of my pickup and haul it all down to the local landscape supply place I don't think I'll be able to weigh it. Best scale I have tops out at 300.

Steve, thanks for the pics. Now I see what you are talking about. I actually carefully read your instructions on the plane ride home and remember you talking about this issue.

[SteveKen]

Your downpipes might be different than mine as I have no idea where they originated.

I dont think the automatic weighs more than 300 pounds since my estimate is that the 01E is less than 100 pounds.

The steel flywheel weighs around 22 pounds. Clutch and pressure plate is less than 10 I bet.

I even bet theres a 10 pound weight savings on fluid alone since the 01E takes less than 3 quarts.

[ttboost]

With regard to the shift linkage, I was able to just tie the 02 wire out of the way with stock gutted downpipes, but it was still close. I know for a fact that I weighed both transmissions, but for the life of me, I can't find the pictures and I don't remember.

[Bigglezworth]

A 5Tip c/w TQ and loaded full of fluid weighs a nominal 375lbs. At least it did when I shipped one...

[ttboost]

I seem to recall the 01e being about 130lbs...

[Fastguy]

I seem to recall the 01e being about 130lbs...

Someone smarter than I once told me that every 100 lbs cut from a vehicle equates to approximately 10 more "usable" hp. Under that assumption, I bet with the sai pump, secondary radiators and plumbing (not to mention the extra weight of the extra fluid they contain), cat converters, one fuel pump, egr valves, lines for trans cooling and fluid, and the tip all being gone, the car would have to weigh 400lbs less? 40 more hp's to the wheels :dig:

[hahnmgh63]

I've always heard the number was approx 7~8lbs per H.P. so 10 would be a conservative number. Save 40lbs alone by going with good Forged wheels and another 30lbs with a dry cell battery (Odyssey 925T). There's my 10bhp alone not counting DRC, SAI, Sec Radiators, Cats's, Onstar, etc... Plus you gain in the handling & braking departments which is good and needed. More off the front of the car the better although the Sec Radiators are low mounted C.G. they still add to the weight and Polar Moment.

[ttboost]

Yeah, I had just about all of that done. Never weighed my car but it was noticeably lighter on its feet. I think the wheels were the most noticeable.

[Bigglezworth]

By the time you complete a cleanse on this car, you can easily shed 300lbs without anyone really noticing by changing:

- 6MT swap
- SAI
- Aux rads
- Exhaust
- Rims
- Battery
- Nav
- Onestar
- Spare & jack
- Floor mats
- Rotots

[Turbowned]

By the time you complete a cleanse on this car, you can easily shed 300lbs without anyone really noticing by changing

Mmmm, that would be so nice. A 3800lb RS6, while still piggy, would be pleasant. Toss the stock front seats for some Recaro Sportster CS and you might shed another 50lbs give-or-take. I bet The Driveshaft Shop would make a nice one piece carbon fiber driveshaft if you asked them nicely; that would likely shed ~15lbs and reduce parasitic drag, too.

[hahnmgh63]

That's a good call on the Driveshaft shop Turbowned. I almost forgot about them. I think they make both a Carbon fiber and an Aluminum Driveshaft for the Cayenne but it would have to be a custom for the RS6. I think they do make one for the B5 S4 though which would be good for us going to 6MT or already gone 6MT route people :) I know the ones they make for the Cayenne (Aluminum & Carbon fiber) are both claimed to be stronger than OEM as well as quite a bit lighter, also (rotating mass).
P.S. Just checked their page.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-driveshafts/audi

[ttboost]

I still have my stock Auto driveshaft if someone needs it for a "core".

[Fastguy]

update for the weekend.

Got back from vacation to a nice surprise of the germany-sourced 01e. Sent it to Phil at audis4parts and he checked it out and replaced syncros for me.

16585
Spent two full days on the car. Removed the last of the secondary cooler lines (the one above the steering rack). Pulled all steering rack bolts and reset with red loctite. Transmission mounted. Starter mounted. dry fit and clocked passenger turbo. Tested the actuators for any leaks and set to 15 psi cracking pressure. Dry fit passenger downpipe and found I either need to grind a bit of the trans mount or dent in the downpipe. Think I'll figure out how to "nicely" dent the downpipe to clear.

1658316584


Forgot that I had no exhaust to turbo crush washers and order from ecs. Also ordered new cps, venair kit, maf sensor gaskets, usp ss slave cylinder line and metal slave, and a couple other little parts. should be here this week.

Bumped starter at least 7 times and although it turns over really slow, the starter definitely grabs. I'm guessing it's because of my cheap ass jumper cables and the connection the make (although the battery I used is 100% charged). I also pulled all the plugs to see if less compression would help...not really but a tad quicker to turn over.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNLzdYPmVac&feature=youtu.be

[P1054]

Regarding the driveshaft.. Is the S4 shaft a direct bolt on for an 01e swapped rs6? It seems like I remember there being a length difference.

[Fastguy]

Regarding the driveshaft.. Is the S4 shaft a direct bolt on for an 01e swapped rs6? It seems like I remember there being a length difference.

Think the a6 01e is the same length. 99% sure the s4 01e is different length. I pulled mine from a donor manual a6.

Anyone have any input on the video I posted? Think I have a timing issue (only thing I messed with that could possibly cause the slow turnover/compression issue) or just a combination of crap quality cables and a poor connection? Can't stop thinking about it now.

[fukinavit]

Think the a6 01e is the same length. 99% sure the s4 01e is different length. I pulled mine from a donor manual a6.

Anyone have any input on the video I posted? Think I have a timing issue (only thing I messed with that could possibly cause the slow turnover/compression issue) or just a combination of crap quality cables and a poor connection? Can't stop thinking about it now.

you can easily do a voltage drop test to check the temp connections, that way you will know for sure, very quick and easy.
I would say something is not quite right, best to figure it out now while access is easy. start with the easy things, connections, battery ,starter condition etc.

[Fastguy]

Pulled all the plugs completely out. Found a set of cables that seemed to be moderately better and tried again. Here is the result: http://youtu.be/sG6KSCQcY_I

Ok?

[Fastguy]

getting very close now. I might be able to get the engine back on the subframe this weekend, then it's a matter of making electrical connections.

front axles installed along with axle shields. The driver axle shield upper most bolt required a few washers. It was making contact with the hotside of the turbo and I thought it better to give at least 1/4" breathing room.

16606

The 01E tdi trans has two extra ports for oil cooler (I was told for use mainly when towing). So I decided to plug them. M16x1.5. Also had to adjust custom trans mount brackets slightly to clear the plate housing the oil cooler port. (further informed this is only on the TDI). Went with these custom steel brackets because the downpipes clear them no problems unlike stock. Assumed this would be better than grinding.

166071660816609

Tried for months to resolve the broken bung on the front combo cooler with no success. Cooler is actually still at a weld shop. I decided to bite the bullet and go with an after market. I am temporarily hooking it up so I can pressurize the engine with oil while still out of the car to check for leaks.

16610

Found a way to test banjo bolts and crush washers on turbos at the coolant connections. You can see I pulled the lines at the tee leading under the intake mani. Plugged one side, applied 35 psi to other side with mityvac. bubble tested banjo fittings. Good to go...no leaks! Great peace of mind.

1661116612

got my venair kit. these are definitely quality made. Also ordered all new appropriately-sized stainless tbolt clamps.

16613

...and here's how she sits tonight.

16614

[Bigglezworth]

Purdy....

[bethridg]

Looks good. Tried contacting ssac about the downpipes. They directed me to Sean @ SRM but haven't heard anything back yet.

[bethridg]

What wastegate actuators are you running?

[Fastguy]

What wastegate actuators are you running?
They came with the srm turbos. Springs are adjustable. I believe they are custom by srm but you have the option of changing springs. Mine are set to a cracking pressure of 15 psi

[fukinavit]

Nice work, good to see you progressing on. I can only imagine the amount of $$$ you have spent so far on this mid life tune up! just a shame you spent all summer doing it, think this is more of a winter project.

[Fastguy]

Nice work, good to see you progressing on. I can only imagine the amount of $$$ you have spent so far on this mid life tune up! just a shame you spent all summer doing it, think this is more of a winter project.

I don't even want the think about how much I've spent. Why I asked the earlier question about what it "might" be worth when complete. That's assuming I ever get it done!

I had to make it a summer project because it did not run when I purchased it....well it ran, just didn't move. Wasn't much fun going out each night listening to it run and probably getting carbon monoxide poisoning dreaming about what it might be like to drive it. If all goes well (fingers crossed and simultaneously knocking on wood), I'll be driving it or tweaking it in a few weeks. Just in time for the nights to cool and get some good tuning runs in. I plan on purchasing another car for winter anyway (hopefully a touareg tdi). I think that will be a bit easier to drive on slick roads and without, what I'm assuming will be, a tough clutch to drive.

After this is complete, I have no doubt I'll find a winter project.

[Turbowned]

That's a true leap of faith, not even having driven that car before swapping it to manual! Had you driven an RS6 before?

[Fastguy]

That's a true leap of faith, not even having driven that car before swapping it to manual! Had you driven an RS6 before?

Haha! Nope! Never in my life. Just dreaming about the outcome based on what I've read. I do have an 04 a6 2.7 with k04's and I've loved that car. Just expecting above what that one does. Hope I'm not disappointed.

[Fastguy]

Getting very close now. With any luck I'll be able to fire it up and let idle tomorrow.

I've been taking my time hoping to get everything right the first go round. As I mentioned earlier, I pressure tested the turbo fittings with my mityvac and some bubbles. Moving forward, I stop at the next point I can and test some more. My logic telling me that if I test in increments there will be less to pull apart if I need to. I found a leak at my oil cooler lines where connected near the oil filter. So I had to pull the metal boost pipe off, drop the subframe and tighten it up hopefully that's all I will have to say about that.

All the coolant lines back in place (great thanks to bigglezworth for the help on a coolant line that got bent when pulling engine) and pulled a vacuum on the system to pull in water (for now-will flush and fill with coolant later). It didn't hold a vacuum. Worried, (as I was hoping it was my homemade vac setup that was leaking) I went ahead and pulled in some water then had to fill by pouring in more. Put the pressure tester on it and hasn't budged off 15 psi for the last four hours. Good feeling.

16709

It's amazing how much room there is from below with the manual. I heard speak of this but had no idea until I actually experienced for myself. You can actually see and touch both turbos from below! If I had to, I could probably even get at the banjo bolts on the side!

1671016711

And this his is how she's sitting tonight:

16712 16713

Intercoolers were a b1tch to wiggle in there. Didn't realize until after a bit of struggling it's best to remove y pipe. Also, because these were re-cored with larger radiators they aren't exactly the same height as before. I had a really tough time getting the bottom grommet in on both. Little bend after removing a second time got them squeezed into place.

Tomorrow, if I can find enough time, I plan to get the mafs set back in place, fill the ps reservoir, and give it a shot. Still LOTS of finishing stuff to do (install freshly cleaned and treated leather seats, install freshly drained and cleaned calipers and bleed, tighten new control arms at ride height, finish shampooing carpets, route and clean up wiring, terminate all the wires I fabricated and pulled for the manual to fully work as if were stock, finish up exhaust....you get the idea.

I plan lane to let it idle for a bit and come to temp just to check it all in case leaks develop after it's been brought to operating temp and cooled. Front carrier just hanging basically so I could get coolant system filled for idle test.

[Fastguy]

Getting very close now. With any luck I'll be able to fire it up and let idle tomorrow.

I've been taking my time hoping to get everything right the first go round. As I mentioned earlier, I pressure tested the turbo fittings with my mityvac and some bubbles. Moving forward, I stop at the next point I can and test some more. My logic telling me that if I test in increments there will be less to pull apart if I need to. I found a leak at my oil cooler lines where connected near the oil filter. So I had to pull the metal boost pipe off, drop the subframe and tighten it up hopefully that's all I will have to say about that.

All the coolant lines back in place (great thanks to bigglezworth for the help on a coolant line that got bent when pulling engine) and pulled a vacuum on the system to pull in water (for now-will flush and fill with coolant later). It didn't hold a vacuum. Worried, (as I was hoping it was my homemade vac setup that was leaking) I went ahead and pulled in some water then had to fill by pouring in more. Put the pressure tester on it and hasn't budged off 15 psi for the last four hours. Good feeling.

16709

It's amazing how much room there is from below with the manual. I heard speak of this but had no idea until I actually experienced for myself. You can actually see and touch both turbos from below! If I had to, I could probably even get at the banjo bolts on the side!

1671016711

And this his is how she's sitting tonight:

16712 16713

Intercoolers were a b1tch to wiggle in there. Didn't realize until after a bit of struggling it's best to remove y pipe. Also, because these were re-cored with larger radiators they aren't exactly the same height as before. I had a really tough time getting the bottom grommet in on both. Little bend after removing a second time got them squeezed into place.

Tomorrow, if I can find enough time, I plan to get the mafs set back in place, fill the ps reservoir, and give it a shot. Still LOTS of finishing stuff to do (install freshly cleaned and treated leather seats, install freshly drained and cleaned calipers and bleed, tighten new control arms at ride height, finish shampooing carpets, route and clean up wiring, terminate all the wires I fabricated and pulled for the manual to fully work as if were stock, finish up exhaust....you get the idea.

I plan lane to let it idle for a bit and come to temp just to check it all in case leaks develop after it's been brought to operating temp and cooled. Front carrier just hanging basically so I could get coolant system filled for idle test.

[ttboost]

You should consider detaching you MAF's from the air box and let them sit in the intake tubes. Makes it much easier to remove airbox while the car is running to check for vacuum leaks, coolant leaks, etc... If you leave it that way, you will likely NEVER get another leaky MAF code either.

[Fastguy]

and so here it is:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgjsZ0FSFS0&feature=youtu.be

let it run for a few minutes to warm up. no oil leaks that i can see, no coolant leaks. I did, however, hear a funny rattling noise from up front. It sounds like it could be the clutch bearing on the compressor. Then I see oil dripping down the rear of the compressor. Inspected further and looks like it may be the top banjo bolt on the ps pump. Hopefully I can get at it without removing the front end, to remove the y pipe, so I can remove the top hose leading to the intercooler.

[Fastguy]

You should consider detaching you MAF's from the air box and let them sit in the intake tubes. Makes it much easier to remove airbox while the car is running to check for vacuum leaks, coolant leaks, etc... If you leave it that way, you will likely NEVER get another leaky MAF code either.

Ok, done. Also, since I set the MAF's in place without the airbox, I can see why they might leak. The rubber seal does not feel snug at all. I ordered an upgrade seal kit from Apikol. Hopefully it's much tighter.

[lswing]

You should consider detaching you MAF's from the air box and let them sit in the intake tubes. Makes it much easier to remove airbox while the car is running to check for vacuum leaks, coolant leaks, etc... If you leave it that way, you will likely NEVER get another leaky MAF code either.

Thanks for the good advice.

I just ordered the Apikol MAF seals as my car is getting a fall tune up soon. Can either of you provide a picture or two of how the MAF sensor relocate looks? My new shop seems to have it together and has a lot of Audi/Porsche experience at least.

[ttboost]

You are not actually relocating them, just detaching them from the airbox, so every time you remove the air box, you are not wearing the seals out and messing with those ever so fragile MAF connectors and wiring. It MAY leak a little, but it also would leak a little with the MAF's connected, you just won't get a light and limp mode this way. Just 2 Philips screws on the bottom of each MAF to disconnect.

[lswing]

Very good, always assumed it was a relocation. Thanks.

[Bigglezworth]

Looks exactly like you would expect minus the air cleaner assembly... You can drive and check for any leaks easily without having the aircleaner to worry about.
16723

[ttboost]

Thanks Tim...I never took a picture of mine.

[Fastguy]

16759Got the front end all put back together...pictures soon. Started doing clay bar, paint correction, polish and wax a panel at a time. Interior all back together and detailed. Water meth complete and working. New abs module arrived today. Installing that this weekend and waiting on a different left trans mount bracket and I should be on the road.

Can an anyone tell me which optima battery I should purchase. I've searched, and I see people are using them, but I don't see where anyone says specifically which battery it is. Just a yellow optima.
16760

[ttboost]

Not sure if you know, or if anyone told you, but DO NOT remove any brake lines when you do your ABS module. Only remove the black electronic cover and replace that with the new one. I think you only have to remove the inner fender and maybe move the power steering reservoir out of the way to get to all of the screws.

[Fastguy]

Not sure if you know, or if anyone told you, but DO NOT remove any brake lines when you do your ABS module. Only remove the black electronic cover and replace that with the new one. I think you only have to remove the inner fender and maybe move the power steering reservoir out of the way to get to all of the screws.

Ok. Thanks for the tip. I was going to remove the whole thing. This way it won't need bled? Well, I guess unless I have to drain and disconnect the reservoir.

[ttboost]

You should not have to drain or bleed anything. 15 minute job.

[Fastguy]

You should not have to drain or bleed anything. 15 minute job.

that is very nice to hear. not a single project thus far has taken less than 15 minutes! BTW, master brake cylinder reservoir is full but my brake light is still flashing. Think this is a symptom of the abs controller not being changed over and subsequently reprogrammed?

[hahnmgh63]

I thought AMD had their tune down to where you don't need to change out the stock ABS module anymore with the S6/A6/Passat manual one?

[ttboost]

I would think it still has to be changed as it's not a manual controller? I think the problem was recoding another one for the RS6. They may have THAT sorted...interested to find out...

[SteveKen]

I thought AMD had their tune down to where you don't need to change out the stock ABS module anymore with the S6/A6/Passat manual one?

This is correct. AMD has an ECU for the RS6 and the S6/W8 Passat controller. Just specify which one you have when you order it.

As far as I know, AMD is the only one out there that can accommodate the RS6 ABS controller.

[Fastguy]

Used the google search function for rs6.com. Still didn't yield a specific optima battery number for replacement. Anyone?

[Other_Erik]

Used the google search function for rs6.com. Still didn't yield a specific optima battery number for replacement. Anyone?

Optima doesn't offer a proper-sized battery for the RS6. I finally got my (3RD!) leaking AutoZone Platinum battery replaced with AAA roadside assistance, they had a proper battery ready to go and installed and working for less than I paid for the AZ POS battery.

When I say proper-sized, I'm talking both in the physical sense - you'd need to add a hold-down guide to keep it from sliding around under the battery cover - and in the capacity sense - the largest they offer IIRC is 650CCA or so in the close-to-fitting size, and the stock battery is 780CCA, the AAA battery I got is 900CCA.

O_E

[Fastguy]

Optima doesn't offer a proper-sized battery for the RS6. I finally got my (3RD!) leaking AutoZone Platinum battery replaced with AAA roadside assistance, they had a proper battery ready to go and installed and working for less than I paid for the AZ POS battery.

When I say proper-sized, I'm talking both in the physical sense - you'd need to add a hold-down guide to keep it from sliding around under the battery cover - and in the capacity sense - the largest they offer IIRC is 650CCA or so in the close-to-fitting size, and the stock battery is 780CCA, the AAA battery I got is 900CCA.

O_E

Correct me if I'm wrong; but I thought people were switching to the optima battery because it was lighter? As I pull the specs, the optima is actually 10 lbs heavier than the battery autozone lists as standard?

[Dmb408]

No people use Odyssey PC 925 quite a bit and I was talking about LiFe Phosphate batteries recently.

[Fastguy]

oh, ok. looks like about half the weight but at only 300 cranking amps? Wow. Back to searching the forums for discussions on this.

EDIT... kind of looks like this might be a little better alternative to the 925, but not sure about the price for what looks like a 15 lb weight savings
http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-PC1200-Automotive-Starting-Battery/dp/B005ZI4YS6

[lswing]

Odyssey PC925C is very small compared to stock, and proven to work just fine for years.

[Fastguy]

compiled a list of things I can recall have been completed to date:

Transmission swap and components
· Freshly rebuilt 01E TDI transmission from Germany
· New transmission fluid
· New oe remanufactured 01e front axles
· All pedals for conversion properly working and wired including reverse light switch
· Complete front end suspension package with all control arms
· Steve kendrish conversion kit
· New stage 4 extreme clutch with stevekens steel flywheel
· New flywheel bolts
· New metal slave cylinder and stainless steel braided line
· S6 manual conversion abs controller

Turbos and performance upgrades
· Rear exhaust cutouts with remote wireless switch
· Wideband sensor
· Ceramic coated exhaust manifolds
· SSAC 3” downpipes with 200 cell race cats
· SRM new larger billet turbos
· AEM water methanol injection with d5 nozzles
· Bosch ev14 55lb injectors with adapters
· Walbro 440lph fuel pump with 034 billet adapter
· New SRM larger re-cored intercoolers
· New bosch 710n diverters
· New high lift adjustable wastegate solenoids precision adjusted to cracking pressure of 15psi
. custom tune by vagautowerks in hopes of putting down at least 550hp to the ground

Maintenance
· Complete venair silicone hose kit
· New battery (in a day or two)
· Complete interior detail, shampoo and leatherique cleaning and treatment
· New cupholder, trunk button, light switch
· Complete timing belt job
· New water pump
· New bosch voltage regulator
· New cam adjuster pads
· New valve cover seals
· New cam seals
· New front main seal and rear main seal
· Sai delete and accompanying code delete
· Secondary 02 delete
· Full exterior detail including paintless dent removal, clay bar, paint correction and wax
· Steering rack bolt removal and reset with locktite
· New accessory belt
· New compressor clutch bearing
· New oe coolant temp switch
· new coolant pipe orings and gaskets
· all new turbo crush washers
· custom fitted mishimoto oil cooler with trans cooler delete
· 034 street density transmission mounts
· Custom audis4parts transmission mount brackets
· New stern engine mounts
· Coolant system flushed two times and filled
· New oil filter and oil
· New maf sensor orings
· Power coated valve covers
· New bufkin oil cooler pipe
· All new orings for oil cooler assembly at block
· New k&n air filters
· 034 SAI block off plates and EGR delete
· Hopefully new gas tank parts under recall
. New oil pan gasket
. New oe front pads
. Brake system complete flush and fill with fluid
. Power steering flush and fill with fluid
. 19 inch replica nine spoke RS wheels
. New continental DW tires
. Refinish and powder coat original 18 inch wheels for winter use. With winter force winter tires
. Complete removal of secondary radiators and all plumbing including plumbing underneath where the steering rack is located

I'll add as I can remember other items or complete more tasks - nice to have a complete list.

[Dmb408]

^this...wow

[Bigglezworth]

Own one or more of these cars for a few years and you can easily get everything on this list and then some (minus the 6MT swap stuff) in short order. I just did the entire drivetrain from back of block outwards in the past 1.5 years on the one ride here. Something to be said about rejuvenation of these cars vs. buying something different/newer.

[Fastguy]

Odyssey PC925C is very small compared to stock, and proven to work just fine for years.

So now I'm confused. I was trying to find a place to purchase and I see there are multiple different variants of the pc925. I haven't actually seen a pc925 ending in "c". I'm guessing it's just different mounting variations but I want to be sure to order the correct one

[lswing]

Sorry, looks like PC925T for the auto version. I've been impressed. It will die if you let the car sit for 2-3 weeks, but other than that no issues.

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/batteries/pc925_series.htm

[fukinavit]

very impressive, this should be quite the animal when you get it all dialed in. I look forward to seeing some 6 speed 1/4 mile runs!

which exhausts cut outs did you go with in the end?

[ttboost]

I'd settle for the 550awhp dyno sheet...

[Fastguy]

I'd settle for the 550awhp dyno sheet...

We'll see. I think the dyno is more likely than the run times because I'd probably be pretty slow at shifting this trans. I'd lose more time shifting than accelerating. I'll be More than happy if I have a 550 dyno sheet.

[fukinavit]

I'd settle for the 550awhp dyno sheet...

But it would be nice to see a fast 6 speed time, I don't care for dyno figures. Just seems strange to spend all that time and money and still be slower than a tuned slush box.

[ttboost]

While I hope I'm wrong, I don't think you will see 5 anything on a dyno. Depends on the dyno and it calibration. My 6 speed car never broke 500. Hell, never broke 490. But it was a blast to drive. 1st is useless, but 2nd and 3rd gear blasts....nice....5th and 6th gear roll-ons on the highway...priceless. I've beaten Vettes, new Challengers and Mustangs on 60mph roll-ons. Launching...that's another story...Especially with a lightweight flywheel...forget it...

[lswing]

But it would be nice to see a fast 6 speed time, I don't care for dyno figures. Just seems strange to spend all that time and money and still be slower than a tuned slush box.

Because it won't fail every 6 months like a highly tuned car with auto box. Also more power through to the wheels.

[Fastguy]

But it would be nice to see a fast 6 speed time, I don't care for dyno figures. Just seems strange to spend all that time and money and still be slower than a tuned slush box.

Spent the money because I wanted a somewhat reliable rs6 and now I know exactly what maintenance has been done, the care and precision with which it was completed, and how to do it again in the future should the need arise.

I didn't exactly "need" to do the turbos, injectors, intercoolers, downpipes, water meth but I figured why not? I've got it all apart, may as well do it now.

I don't know of another car, at this price point, that has all that the rs has. If you want an awd 500hp beast as clean as I've made this car, and still haul 5 people around if you want, you'd have to spend a lot more than I have.

Its funny, some people think I'm nuts for doing all this work, spending all this money, and never even driven an rs. At times, I do too. It wasn't until a few days ago I had the opportunity to drive an rs for the first time (not mine just yet) and better yet it is a 6 speed. I think it has a base tune what would be considered stage 1. It wasn't mine so I didn't want to "get on it" but I can tell you, besides my brothers old tt supra, it is the most powerful car I've driven. Again, I don't know how it would compare to the tip because I've never driven one. I had a guy tell me, that build cars for a living and has had many rs's, that a stock rs feels about like a stage 1 tuned 2.7. If this is true, the manual I recently drove would be compared to a stage 4 2.7 a6. As I have a stage 3 2.7 now. This rs would move away from that 2.7 (especially at highway speeds) as if it were standing still.

I know now it's been a debate on here for a while about hp numbers, 1/4 mile times etc, but it seems there are so many other things at play. Until I get used to it, I think the 1/4 mile (at least for me) would be destroyed by the shift times. If you are running these down the highway, a manual next to a tip, and you are already in third or fourth, I can tell you the manual will run away from the tip.

After getting the drive a friends manual rs I can say I am VERY excited. The car is an absolute beast and has the most basic tune. No water meth, no timing, etc. When complete, I think it will actually be mildly frightening (if you're not the one in the cockpit). It would be fun to meet with someone in the area who has a tip so we can drive each other's car and compare.

[fukinavit]

im not knocking you in any way, I think what you've done is awesome, I recently pulled my engine earlier this year for maintenance work and little things. a lot of what you did I would have done too as I like to tinker but I know I could not justify the cost. hat off to you, enjoy what you've worked hard for.:addict:

[Fastguy]

oh, I didn't take it that way at all. I understand about the numbers claims, etc. I "hope" it will break 500 but really have no idea. As long as it "feels" like what 500 should be...and I think it will because it's all torque :)

[Bigglezworth]

If you are running these down the highway, a manual next to a tip, and you are already in third or fourth, I can tell you the manual will run away from the tip.Don't be so certain with that claim....

[Fastguy]

Again, I make no claims. I am simply going on assumption and am hopeful so far. I know claims are an extremely touchy subject here. I will, hopefully, get to take it to have a dyno done to add to the list of items in the car's portfolio.

The previous statement about the manual running away from the tip assumes that the tip can only handle "stage 1" power without detonating the transmission. Also, I assume that the 400 lbs shaved with the addition of the 6mt and the other deletes, might allow the manual to put more to the ground. I further assume that the addition of the larger turbos, ceramic manifolds, water meth, more fuel, free flowing downpipes, (no matter what numbers are actually made), and the strength of the 6mt compared to the tip, might allow the tune to go way beyond what is possible with the tip. Also, if the statement I was given by another who has experience with these is accurate in that the stock rs is "similarish" to a stage 1 a6 2.7, I can tell you that the rs (again it's not mine. Mine is still in the garage) sitting in my driveway with a basic tune and a 6mt, will run away from my current stage 3 a6 2.7 on the highway.

No matter the claims, numbers, times etc (really makes little difference to me), I am very excited to get mine fully tuned with what it has. It will be, hands down, more than anything I've ever owned. I hope it breaks the elusive 500hp mark and believe it may. It sounds, that even with a dyno chart, there is doubt simply because of dyno-to-dyno differences and that the true test is in a 1/4 run. I may never do this as I hate to beat on a car I've spent so much time making as near perfect (to me) as possible. With the way the other manual rs feels, it seems like the torque could rip stuff apart at that level. Those axles don't look like they can stand up to 500-600 ft/lbs of torque when launching a 4000 lb car.

[Bigglezworth]

Think you might be a tad optimistic at the 400lb in weight savings. The 6MT and 5Tip delta is significant at a nominal 140-150lbs +/-, but not clear on where you're gaining the other 250lbs? Rims, mufflers, battery, spare tire, tool kit, etc., don't even add up to 150lbs and I know I've found that there isn't much more to 'remove' readily/easily. What other weight savings did you find in your rebuild not included in this list?

Also, the term "stage" doesn't get used in the RS rhelm - at least not that I'm aware of anyway. The RS isn't easily modified to increase it's power without doing significant (and difficult for most with even basic mechanical knowhow) modifications. I suppose you could refer to the type of tune the car has, but that would be open to debate on who has a better tune as I can't think if a single example over the past 6-7 years whereupon there was an opportunity to test cars in a side by side comparisson.

The above aside you've undertaken a host of work and you will be quickly rewarded for your efforts. There is no reason whatsoever for you to not see 500hp+. There are cars on this forum over 600hp. Nothing close to the 850hp claimed in another thread, but I digress. Ensure your bank account has funds to cover the tickets....

[Fastguy]

I'm looking into radar detectors now. Looking into passport variants. Owned a couple valentine 1 in the past but think I'll give something else a shot. I would also prefer something that is "built in" to a degree as I like keeping true to the original car. Same with the head unit - hopefully I can find a decently-priced rns-e.

Also, I will probably get the car weighed at either the local scrap yard or garden supply yard (or both to determine accuracy of each). I was guessing at the 400 lb savings just because of other threads I've read. I ordered the lighter battery last night (40lbs), 6mt (150lbs?), spare tire (40lbs), 1/4 tank of fuel at the moment, and maybe 20 lbs give or take for the sai, secondary radiators, plumbing, egr valves, and another 40 lbs or so for the much lighter down pipes with little cats, slightly lighter wheels (which I can weigh to quantify) at 10lbs each. That puts me at around 330 savings. If I did decide to run the car at a track I could yank the seats out for a few more lbs. I thought someone told me that each 10 lbs equals about 1 more usable hp? If so, I'd be putting around 30 more hp to the ground just in weight savings?

[ttboost]

Its very conceivable that you may have lost 250-300lbs, as I have done that in the past, with other cars. It does make a difference. Hell, just the lighter wheels on my RS6 made a difference. If your car traps 120, you have a fast car. Don't worry about ET, just worry about trap speed...

[SteveKen]

Because it won't fail every 6 months like a highly tuned car with auto box. Also more power through to the wheels.

I've posted my before and after dyno runs here showing that the 6MT conversion increased AWHP on my first converted RS6 by 16% I think.

[SteveKen]

... I think it will actually be mildly frightening (if you're not the one in the cockpit).

It's actually frightening if you're the driver, too. It's this way regardless of auto vs. manual.

This is why I like this car. The new cars have all the power but are just too numb and you can't feel anything anymore.

Try daily driving and wanting to put 100k miles on a 996 or 997 GT3 vs the new 991. The 991 is like driving a Cadillac.

[SteveKen]

Also, there's probably around a 10 pound saving in fluid alone.

No need for the trans oil cooler circuit and the 01E takes only a maximum of 3 qts vs. the 6.5+ qts in the slushybox.

[Fastguy]

Also, there's probably around a 10 pound saving in fluid alone.

No need for the trans oil cooler circuit and the 01E takes only a maximum of 3 qts vs. the 6.5+ qts in the slushybox.

Should've definitely weighed before but it was bone stock and it didn't move on its own power, which would've made it a little difficult.

[Fastguy]

I am getting bored waiting on my mount bracket. Been still completing little odds and ends. I started weighing deletes with a very accurate scale because I thought would be interesting to know. Drc pumps 5 lbs. oe cats 32 lbs with pipes. Front axles exactly same as tip. Secondary Coolers and dry cooler lines 6 lbs. tool kit with bracket 8 lbs. dry oil trans combo cooler with ss lines 7 lbs. rear muffler section (if you go with straight pipes back) 44 lbs. didn't get to egr and pipes or said pump. Guessing around 10 lbs for both. Stock battery 61 lbs. new battery 24 lbs. that's 37 lbs saving for battery. So as it sits, not counting the trans and not accounting for fluids that the deleted pipes contain I'm sitting around 150 lbs lighter. Guessing the spare to be around 40 if I were to pull it for a total of 190? That means in deletes alone I'd be around 20 more horses to the ground?
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[Bigglezworth]

SAI pump and kombi valves/pipes is 7lbs. what was the weight of the pipes that replaced the OE cats/downpipes? Did you actually remove the resonators and mufflers and are straight pipe with no sound attenuation at all? What was the weight of the pipes that replaced the SE exhaust? You can also remove the air pump if you are removing your spare. A good bout of turbolax will also shed another 5lbs without batting an eye.... lol

[Fastguy]

SAI pump and kombi valves/pipes is 7lbs. what was the weight of the pipes that replaced the OE cats/downpipes? Did you actually remove the resonators and mufflers and are straight pipe with no sound attenuation at all? What was the weight of the pipes that replaced the SE exhaust? You can also remove the air pump if you are removing your spare. A good bout of turbolax will also shed another 5lbs without batting an eye.... lol

not sure on the weight of the new dp's as they are already installed no way to weigh them. The rear muffler section is completely off the car but I thought it would be interesting to note the weight. They will go right back on later. Resonators never weighed and are still on the car. It actually sounds amazing with just resonators and no mufflers but I cant leave it that way. Installing cut outs - weight or not.

I just us think over shed a good bit of weight. I'll know better when I get the entire lump on a drive up scale. Will be interesting. Just wish I could have weighed it prior.

[Dmb408]

I wrote weight of spare in another thread. Too lazy to search for it but I think it's heavier.

[Bigglezworth]

not sure on the weight of the new dp's as they are already installed no way to weigh them. The rear muffler section is completely off the car but I thought it would be interesting to note the weight. They will go right back on later. Resonators never weighed and are still on the car. It actually sounds amazing with just resonators and no mufflers but I cant leave it that way. Installing cut outs - weight or not.

I just us think over shed a good bit of weight. I'll know better when I get the entire lump on a drive up scale. Will be interesting. Just wish I could have weighed it prior.

Was just wondering as your math for the 190'ish lbs includes all of the OEM exhaust as weight savings when in fact you didn't offset it with different piping.
An old drag racing saying is: "For every 100lbs of dead weight you lose you gain a 10th of a second in the quater mile." The time increases if its reciprocating weight ie. wheels, flywheel, driveshaft.

For the sake of this thread, you could equate that to 1hp for every 10lbs of weight as a baseline estimate.

[Fastguy]

Was just wondering as your math for the 190'ish lbs includes all of the OEM exhaust as weight savings when in fact you didn't offset it with different piping.
An old drag racing saying is: "For every 100lbs of dead weight you lose you gain a 10th of a second in the quater mile." The time increases if its reciprocating weight ie. wheels, flywheel, driveshaft.

For the sake of this thread, you could equate that to 1hp for every 10lbs of weight as a baseline estimate.

You are correct. I didn't add back in the weight of those new, lighter parts. I was really just throwing out the numbers of the components I weighed as a reference for those who might be wondering. The exhaust I added , for the moment, is not on the car at all. So it is in fact a complete delete. I plan to return it after tuning but for now it sounds really nice without the rear mufflers.

[Fastguy]

Dropped the car off the stands this morning. Took it for the first ride ever. All I can say is WOW! It's not running correctly because there are dead spots in the accelerator pedal then BAM! It takes off like a rocket. As soon as I start logging and tuning (and as soon as I get the air box back on) I'm sure all this will be ironed out. After a five minute run there are no codes. I sure hope the trans is strong. It feel like the power plant is going to rip the sh1t out of everything. With the mafs open I think it causes and issue because I would assume it's pulling all kinds of hot engine air in.

I didnt realize until until the other day, that with the larger injectors and adapters the airbox won't fit. The flexible injector adapters should be here next week. Then the airbox and filter can go on and tuning can begin. I can't imagine more power than it has now. My stage 3 2.7 is fast. This is insane compared to that.

[Fastguy]

Finally out of the garage.

16772

[bethridg]

Purdy. What's up with those wheel centers? Replicas?

[Fastguy]

Yes. I liked 19's better. Will use stock 18's for winter setup.

[bethridg]

Gotcha. I'd like to get a summer setup and use the OE 18s for winter also. Leaning towards 19s too but can't decide on a style within my budget.

Congrats on the first drive. I had all my vehicles in the driveway yesterday. Garage was empty for the first time in nearly 4 yrs. It just felt weird. Lol

[fukinavit]

What exhaust cuts did you go with and how are you activating them?

[Fastguy]

Just cheap ssac cutouts. Don't have them installed just yet still open. They came with a wireless remote. Controller in trunk. Key fob remote.

[fukinavit]

Just cheap ssac cutouts. Don't have them installed just yet still open. They came with a wireless remote. Controller in trunk. Key fob remote.

Nice. what size fits our exhausts, 2.5" dual? think I might get these as I like the refined sound when im cruising but a bit more noise when the mood suits.

[Fastguy]

Nice. what size fits our exhausts, 2.5" dual? think I might get these as I like the refined sound when im cruising but a bit more noise when the mood suits.

When I get time I'll take some exact measurements with pics for you

[Fastguy]

Figured I'd knock some more items off the list while the car is back in the garage waiting for the correct rear dif to arrive. Purchased som ureathane two part rubber with a hardness of 60 to make some stiffer rear dif mounts. Couldn't make myself pay 250 for just the side mount. Even sand blasted and rattle-canned for the heck of it. I think it turned out really good and from the feel of it I bet it makes a huge difference.

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[Fastguy]

Back on the road. New 3.89:1 rear dif installed to match the FTL coded 3.89:1 drive of trans. I bet this car will get 25+ mpg on the highway.

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Also, had a little more time on the ps pump pressure banjo and crush washers. FINALLY, third time's a charm. No more leaking (almost don't want to say that aloud, fingers crossed).

Only issue for the moment is a vibration that "seems" to be coming from the rear of the car. I don't think it was there before the dif swap/ new rubber in mounts, but I can't be positive because I also finished installed the rear mufflers and cutouts. It's much quieter now.

It's not a huge deal but it is something that feels like it's not quite right. It doesn't go away at any speed but does seem to be the most noticeable around 40 mph. At that point it makes a low rumbling/drone sound in the cabin. It doesn't seem to affect the drive-ability. I don't think a video would do any good because the mic probably wouldn't pick up the sound. I was told to get at cruising speed, put in neutral, apply parking brake and see if any difference. No difference. I also don't feel it in the steering wheel. My best guesses are; it's a symptom of the stiffer mounts transferring sound/vibration into the body, the rear axles or cv joints, the driveshaft or joints, or the rear dif itself (although I don't want to believe it is because Scott said it was driven into his shop, disassembled and inspected, and given new seals). Any suggestions would be great.

[LaserSVT]

Sounds like a carrier bearing. am told they are very particular about what angle they go in at.

[Fastguy]

Sounds like a carrier bearing. am told they are very particular about what angle they go in at.

Ah! Makes sense. That's why the play in the mount bracket that holds the center of the shaft/bearing. Hope there is a home procedure without special, expensive tools to adjust. Or I could just start at one side and keep nudging over a touch at a time, drive and test, keep adjusting until it goes away?