tcu replaced, think transmission is shot

[Fastguy]

I just got this rs6 knowing I would have issues. I purchased it, at the sellers word, saying he had minor repairs completed to the front end and it was returned on a flatbed. He didn't want to mess with it so he sold it to me. TCU was confirmed completely dead. Installed a new one today. Read the measuring blocks and can see that there is no detection of movement into the trans. It reads 0 rpm. I put into gear and see no movement whatsoever but the idle changes when in any gear. So sounds like the ecu is reacting to the gear.

I'm thinking the trans must be removed and then I'm left with a few options. 6 speed swap (most intensive and costly), swap with used trans and hope for the best with a new torque converter, part the car *cringe*. Next step, I suppose is to remove trans pan and check for metal chunks? Also, seems odd and a little unlikely that the tcu would be completely dead and the trans would both die simultaneously.

Guess I'm just asking for thought or ideas. Anything else to look at before I start tearing everything down? Anyone with bad trans or dead TCU ever experienced similar issues? How much more difficult is it to remove the 4.2t compared to the 2.7t I've done?

[RSoverAll]

Haven't had a trans issue myself... yet. But just off the top of my head. Have you checked the simple stuff? Axles? Torque convertor bolts?

I dont think you will see any rpm in the trans measuring blocks until the vehicle is moving, don't quote me on that though.

[Fastguy]

How do I check tc bolts? Crawled under and can only see flywheel through a small hole. Don't see an access plate or cover for tc?

[mik15]

the first thing would be to take the pan off and see if any metal chunks are present. What error codes do you have stored?
I had a similar issue on a VW Phaeton, the car wouldn't move however some rpm variation would occur when put in D or R, but no movement at all, turned out the box was toasted.

Also, what readings do you get when you put in D? or R? on the measuring blocks?

TC bolts can't be checked with the gearbox on.

[DHall1]

Input shaft snapped

[RSoverAll]

Input shaft snapped

I thought I read a thread with the same symptoms a few weeks ago, even had a nice pic of the sheared input shaft

[MaxRS6]

Here is my snapped shaft. It would go into gear with a very large thunk. I had no codes or any prior issue on this transmission.

http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/zz195/MaxRS6/rs6%20Trans%20Shaft/IMG_20141108_080512_615_zps3e06408a.jpg
http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/zz195/MaxRS6/rs6%20Trans%20Shaft/IMG_20141108_080426_269_zpse1685426.jpg

[Fastguy]

Ok. So next is to remove engine and trans. In the 2.7 found easiest to simply drop subframe with engine and trans attached then once dropped do all else that is needed. Would this be the same with the rs6? If so, I could remove front, disconnect everything from top like wire harness, etc, drop it down and roll it out. I would have access to remove trans from car then.

[Fastguy]

the first thing would be to take the pan off and see if any metal chunks are present. What error codes do you have stored?
I had a similar issue on a VW Phaeton, the car wouldn't move however some rpm variation would occur when put in D or R, but no movement at all, turned out the box was toasted.

Also, what readings do you get when you put in D? or R? on the measuring blocks?

TC bolts can't be checked with the gearbox on.

Box meaning tcu? Just replaced it. Measuring blocks show no rpm from input or output. No codes either the ecu or tcu. Old tcu was completely dead. This one seems to read just fine.

[lswing]

You've yet to mention the adjustment/shift cable that goes to the trans...could this be disconnected?

Also, last year Bigglez had a shutdown like this in the snow, turned out to be broken axle?

I've had two gear boxes break on me, but sure it was the clutches both times. They still drove, just slipped and banged around, no codes.

Rebuild TC when out also. Tozo can rebuild the lump upgraded with tc for around $4k...

[TMAC]

Good luck here

[nubcake]

My guess is that TCU was somehow fried intentionally to hide the real issue of snapped input shaft (or otherwise dead gearbox).
EDIT: Yea, with RS6 you drop the whole powerplant.

[Bigglezworth]

First and foremost is to check the fluid. Ensure there is appropriate levels of fluid and that the fluid doesn't smell/look burnt. That's a starting point. Next, check for any broken axles (especially at the outer joints). Can visually look integral, but if you can turn the wheel and the end bolted to the differential doesn't turn - no worky. You've mentioned already addressing a TCU so that's out of the question. A broken drum or bad clutches will cause no movement, but you indicated the car drove in for repairs and now doesn't work? Also check something obvious like the shifter cable being connected to the PRNDL unit.

I'm suspecious of the front end damage you eluded to on AZ and how that might be somehow related. Input shaft snapping has occurred, but is extremely rare. You can't check TQ bolts without having the starter removed. You can't easily remove the starter without dropping the entire powerplant. Unlike a 2.7, you cannot (with any sanity anyway), disconnect the tranny from the engine without having the cradle significantly lowered. The passenger turbo conceals easy access to two bolts coupling the tranny to the engine. It 'has' been accomplished, but for all the headaches, banged up hands, difficulty with the best of tools, etc., it's recommended to take the hulk out and address. Again, start with checking the fluid.

Also guessing that because you didn't test drive the car that you got it for 'cheap' which means the problem merely moved on to the next owner. Pay now or pay later... Nothing comes for free. Best of success with your hunt.

[Fastguy]

First and foremost is to check the fluid. Ensure there is appropriate levels of fluid and that the fluid doesn't smell/look burnt. That's a starting point. Next, check for any broken axles (especially at the outer joints). Can visually look integral, but if you can turn the wheel and the end bolted to the differential doesn't turn - no worky. You've mentioned already addressing a TCU so that's out of the question. A broken drum or bad clutches will cause no movement, but you indicated the car drove in for repairs and now doesn't work? Also check something obvious like the shifter cable being connected to the PRNDL unit.

I'm suspecious of the front end damage you eluded to on AZ and how that might be somehow related. Input shaft snapping has occurred, but is extremely rare. You can't check TQ bolts without having the starter removed. You can't easily remove the starter without dropping the entire powerplant. Unlike a 2.7, you cannot (with any sanity anyway), disconnect the tranny from the engine without having the cradle significantly lowered. The passenger turbo conceals easy access to two bolts coupling the tranny to the engine. It 'has' been accomplished, but for all the headaches, banged up hands, difficulty with the best of tools, etc., it's recommended to take the hulk out and address. Again, start with checking the fluid.

Also guessing that because you didn't test drive the car that you got it for 'cheap' which means the problem merely moved on to the next owner. Pay now or pay later... Nothing comes for free. Best of success with your hunt.

checked axles and movement right when I first got it home. Seems to be fine there. Checked the fluid also and that was fine. Just drained tonight and see no metal in fluid. Even ran my own magnet through the fluid after I got it in my pan and found no shavings or chunks. I will remove the valve body next after it stops dripping and see if anything strikes me as improper. Is there a way to see, without moving engine or trans, if the torque converter is actually hooked up? I just want to make sure something wasn't undone by the shop he had it into in "their" mechanical attempts to resolve a dead tcu. The body shop he took it to had to be unaware of the defective tcu because the owner ( after he got it back from the body shop on a flatbed) took it to an actual audi dealer and the dealers diagnosis was "defective tcu, replacement $1800". The owner said, at that point, "screw it, I'm buying a different car". I saw the invoice from the dealer as well. There was no other repair quote on that bill.

I only know what the pervious owner stated. He SAID he drove it for minor body work and it was returned to him on a flatbed. Other than that who knows how much if that is accurate. My only issue with this whole thing is how likely would it be to have a completely dead tcu (which I am sure of because it was tested by a very reliable source) and for there to be catastrophic mechanical failure at the exact same time? Seems like the two issues are in a completely different ballpark.

Although I do not know where to check it exactly, the shifter must be hooked up because I can see it change through P,N,R, and 1 in tip through group 1 on measuring blocks of tcu.

Yes, got it "relatively" cheap for an rs and expected the worst hoped simple tcu swap was the issue. Still questioning two issues of mechanical failure and dead tcu and same time (as far as I can tell).

[ben916]

also, can you get under there and check if the gear lever is actually connected to the transmission?
Just because the gear lever is moving and electronically "switching gears" and fuel trims to the ECU, doesn't mean it is actually moving the levers to engage a gear.

Also, how are you moving it? If it is "P"ark, the car shouldn't move at all...

[Fastguy]

I can crawl under there and look. If I'm under and pulling trans pan, I should be able to get at this shifter connection? Also, vcds shows 0 rpm input and output. Isn't this relevant? When in gear, or otherwise, shouldn't the input rpm be showing something other than 0? Group 1 in trans shows engine rpm 832, input rpm 0, output rpm 0, and trans gear 1m. Car on all four stands wheels off ground, rev engine, 0 movement.

[P1054]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, and I can't check personally since I've pulled my auto box out to make room for an 01E, but isn't the input speed POST torque-converter, and thus would be 0 unless the output shaft is also turning? Or I suppose there could be a disconnect inside, i.e. transmission in neutral.. But either way if the input speed is 0 even in neutral with the engine running, it's got to be a bad sensor or else the torque converter isn't spinning the input shaft.

Assuming the sensor reading is accurate, it sounds like a disconnect between the engine and the transmission.. Or am I missing something here?

[Fastguy]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, and I can't check personally since I've pulled my auto box out to make room for an 01E, but isn't the input speed POST torque-converter, and thus would be 0 unless the output shaft is also turning? Or I suppose there could be a disconnect inside, i.e. transmission in neutral.. But either way if the input speed is 0 even in neutral with the engine running, it's got to be a bad sensor or else the torque converter isn't spinning the input shaft.

Assuming the sensor reading is accurate, it sounds like a disconnect between the engine and the transmission.. Or am I missing something here?

Yes. Exactly. Would be nice if someone could expand on this. -EDIT- not necessarily expand but confirm or deny what these readings mean exactly.

[Fastguy]

I went out and tested the 2.7, which runs fine. Measuring blocks show input at engine speed only when in neutral or park. When in gear, both input and output drop to 0. So I am assuming this means there is a disconnect "into" the transmission basically between the output of the engine (or flywheel) and the input shaft of the trans. Since I found no metal (at all that I could tell) in the oil of the trans, at this point I'm going to assume the trans is intact. Correct me if this I'm wrong but...wouldn't this mean that the torque converter or input shaft of the trans is bad....?

This leads me back to the same questions - Is there any way for me to inspect to see if the torque converter is connected and spinning without removing the transmission? Is there a way for me to see if the input shaft is moving? If it helps, I have a bore scope.

[Fastguy]

posting again, didn't see my previous message post....

I checked 2.7 vcds. it shows 0 input and 0 output rpm in any gear. in park or neutral input shows same as engine rpm. So I am assuming there is a break between the engine and the transmission. At this point, I cannot assume the transmission is the culprit, because I would first need to get it in motion. Torque converter or input shaft is my only guess?

[Fastguy]

update: I was able to remove that twist connector that plugs into the valve body. Behind it is the inspection hole for the torque converter. I can see that the outside of the converter is turning. So this tells me the break must be in the input shaft or any point before the input sensor.

Is it possible to have very little rattle noise, no fluid leaking, no metal in the oil, and have a torque converter have complete failure causing the car to not move at all?

[P1054]

Sounds right to me, assuming the sensor reading is correct.

[Fastguy]

Just trying to be 100% certain before I remove engine to get at trans and it was something stupid that could have been solved without all that extra effort.

[DHall1]

My Answer is still the same. I'm sticking with it


Input shaft snapped

[lswing]

My Answer is still the same. I'm sticking with it

You must be getting sick of chicken dinner...

[Fastguy]

My Answer is still the same. I'm sticking with itWe'll find out soon enough. Don't want to go all in for a 6 speed swap. 3k for the adaption parts, 2-3 for labor, and 2k for 01e. Or2100 for labor, 1600 for used 5hp24 and done (for a little while anyway) Or Any reputable rebuild shops in Midwest?

[lswing]

AMD in WA, and EPL on East coast seem to be the top 6-speed swap shops that cover software also. ~$10k parts/labor/misc...

[Fastguy]

Going to install new fluid before I bring it into the shop to have the trans removed. After reading everyone's responses, I'm double guess whether or not I checked input rpm in park and neutral or just in gear. 99% sure I did but want to rule out the last 1% doubt. Is there a cheap fluid I can use just for this last ditch testing effort? Don't want to fill it with $100 worth of audi fluid just to dump it again. Also, don't know if there is any significance to this or not but I did see that the front of the trans fluid filter is cracked from side to side.

[ben916]

Going to install new fluid before I bring it into the shop to have the trans removed. After reading everyone's responses, I'm double guess whether or not I checked input rpm in park and neutral or just in gear. 99% sure I did but want to rule out the last 1% doubt. Is there a cheap fluid I can use just for this last ditch testing effort? Don't want to fill it with $100 worth of audi fluid just to dump it again. Also, don't know if there is any significance to this or not but I did see that the front of the trans fluid filter is cracked from side to side.

Interesting!
If the pick up tube is cracked, it would not suck up trans fluid, just air....

My answer is the pick up tube....

[Fastguy]

Interesting!
If the pick up tube is cracked, it would not suck up trans fluid, just air....

My answer is the pick up tube....

I am getting anxious and wish I were there now to remove the filter and inspect. I would like to order the filter and fluid today so I could have it early next week. I've never pulled a trans filter. I know it's as simple as removing two screws and popping the new one on. My friend was the one that inspected it and I just asked him again. He said it was 100% for sure cracked from side to side along the front. Where is the pick up tube in relation?

-EDIT- Nevermind, it makes sense to me now...it's the underside of the filter where it would dip into the oil to suck it up. Can't wait to check. Fingers crossed once again!

[Bigglezworth]

Going to install new fluid before I bring it into the shop to have the trans removed. After reading everyone's responses, I'm double guess whether or not I checked input rpm in park and neutral or just in gear. 99% sure I did but want to rule out the last 1% doubt. Is there a cheap fluid I can use just for this last ditch testing effort? Don't want to fill it with $100 worth of audi fluid just to dump it again. Also, don't know if there is any significance to this or not but I did see that the front of the trans fluid filter is cracked from side to side.Tranny could be cavitating as it sucks air vs. fluid. Important to note that the length of the filter pick-up is critical to the operation and lifespan of the tranny. Purchase a new OEM filter and proceed to fill tranny with approved filling method.

[ben916]

I am getting anxious and wish I were there now to remove the filter and inspect. I would like to order the filter and fluid today so I could have it early next week. I've never pulled a trans filter. I know it's as simple as removing two screws and popping the new one on. My friend was the one that inspected it and I just asked him again. He said it was 100% for sure cracked from side to side along the front. Where is the pick up tube in relation?

-EDIT- Nevermind, it makes sense to me now...it's the underside of the filter where it would dip into the oil to suck it up. Can't wait to check. Fingers crossed once again!

Also, you might need a pan gasket and the specific instructions on how to refill the transmission fluid...

[Fastguy]

Well I pulled the filter and took a pic. I'll get it up here soon. If the crack is not submerged in oil, I have no doubt it was sucking air instead of fluid. This makes me happy as I feel this is the issue. I'll know next week when I get my blauparts kit and out it back together.

[lswing]

I would sure think the trans would function regardless of a cracked filter. It's just going to get a mix of air/oil causing cavitation/foaming, heating the fluid, and causing your clutches to fail. I would think. Do you know the refill procedure? There's a pdf floating around somewhere, basically monitor temp with vagcom and cycle fluid into they system over and over until full, but you should have the exact details. Takes about 9-10 quarts or so depending on how much residual is left in the trans/pipes/cooler I think...

[P1054]

If you change the filter, or even just remove it, MAKE SURE the o-ring where it seats into the transmission is there. Don't ask how I know...

[Fastguy]

I would sure think the trans would function regardless of a cracked filter. It's just going to get a mix of air/oil causing cavitation/foaming, heating the fluid, and causing your clutches to fail. I would think. Do you know the refill procedure? There's a pdf floating around somewhere, basically monitor temp with vagcom and cycle fluid into they system over and over until full, but you should have the exact details. Takes about 9-10 quarts or so depending on how much residual is left in the trans/pipes/cooler I think...

I will have to disagree on this one. I am by no means an expert but my limited mechanical knowledge and basic knowledge of hydraulics leads me to believe this size crack would cause major issues. If the crack itself is not submerged in the oil, the flow would seem to take the path of least resistance. Once the trans and pump are full of air, I would assume it would be more difficult for the pump to prime. If the torque converter were full of air it would not work at all. no pressure could be built. Otherwise, the EXACT fill procedure, orings on filter and valve body, levels of fluid, etc. would not be SO important as it seems to be. From what I've read, and from the posts here, and from the posts on AZ I've read, these transmissions are EXTREMELY touchy when it comes to proper fill procedure. Therefore, a crack of this size would be catastrophic.

I'm not saying I think this is the only problem, but definitely one that could cause major symptoms. I just hope this is the final issue and maybe I was lucky in that the tcu was dead and the car was immobile thereby preventing further damage.

One question my local friends seem to be asking is, "how did that crack occur in the first place?" this I cannot answer.

[lswing]

All good points. Hope it is something simple like that. I've heard of these cracking, that looks bad, not sure if it's temp exposure causing warping or just crap plastic. Is that piece OEM?

My reasoning on it not being the crack is that it's a sealed system with very little air, if filled correctly. Sensitive yes, but most of that is about it not self destructing due to low or incorrect fluid, fluid flow also.

[Fastguy]

My initial assumption was the same as yours; it should as least attempt to drive the wheels or some movement at the input sensor. Even with little fluid. I guess I'm just hoping for the best. I'll know by the first of next week. This will be my last effort before having engine and trans pulled. Didn't want to blow another 150 only to dump the fluid again, but that pales in comparison to the 4-5k for a used trans swap so I guess it's worth a shot.

[Bigglezworth]

there was a good cond used tranny up for sale on here for $1K....

[lswing]

And if not gone a fully rebuilt with no miles $1,800....for sale section.

[Fastguy]

And if not gone a fully rebuilt with no miles $1,800....for sale section.

Ok. Hopefully it doesn't come to that, but if I can find the rebuilt one for 1800, that would probably be the route I'd go.

In response to the cracked filter and whether or not it could cause a completely immobile trans, I did a google search and found very little instances of this (an actual cracked trans filter)...on any car. There was one post where a Jeep owner had this occur and he said it made his car behave as if all gears were "neutral". Exactly as the symptoms I am seeing. To me, this is a good sign. No reason to keep this discussion going because I will have the answer in a few days if this was the underlying issue, but it would have been nice to find a post like this a week ago. Hopefully somewhere down the line someone will see this and not have to go through all the hoops to arrive at the same conclusion.

[TozoM8]

If the fluid level is correct, then you should have 600-700 input speed in P or N. If the filter is cracked or missing the O-ring you are not able to fill the trans to the correct level. You can crack the trans cooler line open and start the car for a sec. If it pumps fluid and there is no input speed then you have a snapped input shaft.

[lswing]

If the fluid level is correct, then you should have 600-700 input speed in P or N. If the filter is cracked or missing the O-ring you are not able to fill the trans to the correct level. You can crack the trans cooler line open and start the car for a sec. If it pumps fluid and there is no input speed then you have a snapped input shaft.

Thanks for the input Tozo!

[DHall1]

Im sticking to my guns.


Input shaft snapped

[ben916]

Im sticking to my guns.

Me too....

[Fastguy]

I am very close to chicago. Does Tozo actually do trans work? It would be nice to have an exact problem to address before tearing the shit out of the car.

[Dmb408]

Yes Tozo does work just outside Chicago, in one of the Burbs, can't remember the name of the place but he'll reach out to you. If he doeskin soon, I can go through my emails.

[Fastguy]

Yes Tozo does work just outside Chicago, in one of the Burbs, can't remember the name of the place but he'll reach out to you. If he doeskin soon, I can go through my emails.

I wasn't sure, just figured I'd ask here since he posted. I pm'd him, but I know from experience, pm's are always noticed.

[DHall1]

Go with Tozo!

I have his number at home

[Fastguy]

Contacted him. Seems like a very knowledgable and trustworthy guy. If next tcu this week yields same result will be bringing it down to him

[Fastguy]

BTW, if it is a snapped input shaft, does this require a full trans rebuild...or can the shaft be replaced fairly easily since the trans will be out anyway?

[Bigglezworth]

BTW, if it is a snapped input shaft, does this require a full trans rebuild...or can the shaft be replaced fairly easily since the trans will be out anyway?The shaft comes out the front of the tranny after removing the pump, differential, cross shaft and various retainer clips. You don't need to overhaul the entire tranny no, but it's not just a few bolts. Given the fact that it takes a host of time to R&R the tranny, you might want to consider the additional $$ to go through it entirely and do things like the seals and drum which are common failures.
16096

[lswing]

There's a great rebuild documentation thread from rs246.com last year. I'll dig that up and add it to the website this week.

[Fastguy]

Well, I thought perhaps the previous owner would have been a bit more honest, but I guess I'll use this as yet another learning experience. I think it's more than I want to deal with right now and it'll put my current build progress on hold. Right now I have two a6's (a stage 3 2.7 and a 4.2) and this rs6. I was really hoping I could throw in a new tcu and be good. If I end up not being able to sell it as is I will have no choice but to spring for the trans rebuild.

Ill clean it up (the car is actually in AMAZING shape) and resell it. Very disappointed. If I didn't have a $7000 half-built 2.7 engine in the garage waiting to swap into the 4.2 behind the garage, I would go all in on this rs6 and have the turbos done or swapped, all maintenance, and a 6 speed.

in anticipation of the tcu working, I already pulled all the seats and leatheriqued them, installed new plugs, and cleaned and oiled the k&n filters. Besides it having a new tcu and a new fluid and filter for the trans (not that matters now)

[Bigglezworth]

Egad. That sucks. Unclear on why you simply don't force the hand of the seller and make them buy the vehicle back given it not working. If it was not disclosed you have plenty to stand on. If not, take legal action. You live in the states which is world renowned for being lawsuit happy...

[Fastguy]

Egad. That sucks. Unclear on why you simply don't force the hand of the seller and make them buy the vehicle back given it not working. If it was not disclosed you have plenty to stand on. If not, take legal action. You live in the states which is world renowned for being lawsuit happy...

He actually wasn't in this or a nearby state. Hopefully I can break even or it's time to reluctantly part the car out. This would be a huge shame since the car only has 119k miles and a clean title.

[DHall1]

Is it the input shaft


Well, I thought perhaps the previous owner would have been a bit more honest, but I guess I'll use this as yet another learning experience. I think it's more than I want to deal with right now and it'll put my current build progress on hold. Right now I have two a6's (a stage 3 2.7 and a 4.2) and this rs6. I was really hoping I could throw in a new tcu and be good. If I end up not being able to sell it as is I will have no choice but to spring for the trans rebuild.

Ill clean it up (the car is actually in AMAZING shape) and resell it. Very disappointed. If I didn't have a $7000 half-built 2.7 engine in the garage waiting to swap into the 4.2 behind the garage, I would go all in on this rs6 and have the turbos done or swapped, all maintenance, and a 6 speed.

in anticipation of the tcu working, I already pulled all the seats and leatheriqued them, installed new plugs, and cleaned and oiled the k&n filters. Besides it having a new tcu and a new fluid and filter for the trans (not that matters now)

[Fastguy]

Is it the input shaft
It's probably the input shaft. Got it.

[Fastguy]

Oh wait, you know what? I bet it's the input shaft

[DHall1]

Listen

We have an excellent group of folks here. You came in looking for help and help was given. Not that I wish bad luck on anyone but clarification on what was wrong is reasonable. That is all.

I bought one with a bad engine a few years back but made it right.

Done

[Fastguy]

I did not say I was not given help, nor did I imply the help I've been given here it is not immensely appreciated. Actually I was joking; not intending to insult. I've been trying to get to the root of the problem and had been given many great suggestions. I didn't want to take the repeated "it's the input shaft" as the only issue (as I quickly discovered it was or probably is not). The multiple responses led me to a defective tcu and a damaged oil filter. It will be interesting to see what the final issue(s) may be. Sounds like it's the input shaft or torque converter. My vote is input shaft.

[s8prtotype]

You're obviously skilled in the Audi arena, Did you not do any research on the RS6 before you bought it? I mean technically you should have expected the worse. At the end of the day you bought an RS6 with a well known issue... the tranny haha.

If it's just the input shaft you got lucky. Depending on what you got the car for you're still ahead. 80k new. ;)

[Fastguy]

You're obviously skilled in the Audi arena, Did you not do any research on the RS6 before you bought it? I mean technically you should have expected the worse. At the end of the day you bought an RS6 with a well known issue... the tranny haha.

If it's just the input shaft you got lucky. Depending on what you got the car for you're still ahead. 80k new. ;)

Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining at all. Just a bit disappointed. It's funny you say, "should've expected the worst". That I did. I was obviously "hoping" for the best...which would have been a tcu swap. Just seemed to me, extremely unlikely, that a tcu and an input shaft would have gone defective at the exact same time. One is unrelated to the other...and without the tcu even operable (it was 100% dead) how could the car even have been driven to actually break the shaft? Oh well, not a big deal. I just have to weigh my options at this point.

I know I'll get blasted here for this, but I'm actually considering pulling the rs6 engine and trans, and popping in my 2.7t/01E setup. IMO best of both worlds; the ease and much cheaper cost of working on a 2.7 as compared to the rs6 4.2, I would get the looks of an RS6, the braking and suspension of the rs, but the only downside is it would probably kill the resell value of the car. If I do this, I know the 2.7 will fit right on the subframe of the a6 4.2. I'm wondering if the rs6 subframe would be the same.

[s8prtotype]

Have you driven a working RS6 yet? If not you don't know what you're missing.

The 4.2 can handle everything your 2.7 has bolted to it stock. So just throw your turbos (assuming upgraded) on the cosworth built 4.2 and sell all the other junk ;)

There was a used tranny in the for sale section for a decent price if it comes to that.

Get your priorities straight! lol

[Fastguy]

If I keep the rs6 I wouldn't go any other way than an 01e swap. I have the whole thing sitting in the garage for the 2.7. I'm expecting 550+ hp to the wheels on the 2.7 build. The turbos on the built 2.7 would be an upgrade to the stock k04's on the rs. Only thing that would remotely make me consider it is the cost and ease of maintenance as compared to the 4.2tt

[s8prtotype]

Once you swap the tranny into the RS everything will pretty much be easier with more room, you can also delete a few things such as SAI crap, extra radiators.. ect.

A tune will put the RS close to those 2.7 numbers stock ;)

[lswing]

That trans from nistah for $1,800 newly rebuilt is a steal. If I didn't have a new one it would be in my garage. Worth $3,500...

[Fastguy]

Once you swap the tranny into the RS everything will pretty much be easier with more room, you can also delete a few things such as SAI crap, extra radiators.. ect.

A tune will put the RS close to those 2.7 numbers stock ;)

The turbos I have for the 2.7 are good for about 30 psi. Also have a devils own meth injection kit going behind that. I know the torque for the rs is a monster but, on stock internals, the rs can do close to 700 chp like I'll be getting from the built 2.7?

[Fastguy]

I'm 99% convinced now to sell my built 2.7, sell the a6 4.2 that was to be the donor, and keep the rs. I'll pull the trans and see if anyone wants it broken. I'll install the 01E in the rs and pair it with my fx400 clutchmasters clutch. I'll do all the typical maintenance while the engine is out. I'll swap my built turbos and sell the stock rs6 turbos. I think that will cover it. It'll be a beast, you say, compared to my 2.7. I'll go from there. Excited.

Oh, I don't know who would know here, but to remove the 2.7 I drop the front subframe leaving the trans attached. Once everything disconnect it's really not that big a deal to drop it, lift the frame, and roll it all out. How would the removal compare for the 4.2? Maybe time to start a new thread. This is quickly evolving into something else entirely.

[s8prtotype]

Drop it all the same way.

Here is Milka's build thread just so you know who has pushed the stock block/heads pretty far... may need to sign up to see all the pictures.

http://www.ozaudi.com/forums/a6-s6-rs6-allroad/20790-milkas-rs6-build-thread.html

Sell all your 2.7t Audi stuff, pay for the swap (flywheel kit) with it, once you have it completed you'll have a very strong and mostly reliable RS6. Not to mention 1 of 800 or so, and 6 speed.

[ben916]

Drop it all the same way.

Here is Milka's build thread just so you know who has pushed the stock block/heads pretty far... may need to sign up to see all the pictures.

http://www.ozaudi.com/forums/a6-s6-rs6-allroad/20790-milkas-rs6-build-thread.html

Sell all your 2.7t Audi stuff, pay for the swap (flywheel kit) with it, once you have it completed you'll have a very strong and mostly reliable RS6. Not to mention 1 of 800 or so, and 6 speed.

Buddy of mine in CA has a stage 3 A6 2.7 6sp 550hp or something crazy like that.
Always wants to drive the RS6.

[Dmb408]

Here is 2.7 possibility...https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=hn7qIc9CYgw

[Bigglezworth]

I've said this before on another thread - if you got the car for under 15K, you can presume it requires 'something' or has a salvage title. If you got it for under 12K, you can presume it needs something major. This isn't guesswork. It's the facts. I hear the pain in your posts, but a car like this should NEVER be purchased without having an authorized mechanic - or someone with significant mechanical experience - review the car in detail and also drive the car. In fact that can be said for ANY car purchase - not just the RS6.

As for parting it out - BLASPHEMY! It's simply senseless to do such when a repair can make it near new. I have a car here with double that mileage and I could have parted it out simply because it had a bad turbo and other small odds and sods, but I elected to bite the bullet and put in the parts necessary to ensure the 1 of 860 survives. Lots of other examples that have met their fate due to accidents - no need to add another simply because you don't deem it worthy of your money. Sell it to someone who will keep it going.

Oh - and if it hasn't been said enough already above - DON'T bastardize the car with the piddly 2.7 just because. All of the Audi powerplants can be built to make more power. Buildingn a 2.7 isn't going to have any less problems than a 4.2. You limitation on the extent of your build is $$ and limited space in certain areas in the C5 chassis. You will also find that irrespective of how much $$ you put in to a 2.7 engine, you will have killed all resale value of the car. If you want to do this, go blow your wad on an A6 or S6 and bolt on some cosmetic bumpers, seats, and the like. Then you might actually recognize some of your work. You will get bent over doing what you're suggesting to an RS6.

Just sayin.

[Fastguy]

I've said this before on another thread - if you got the car for under 15K, you can presume it requires 'something' or has a salvage title. If you got it for under 12K, you can presume it needs something major. This isn't guesswork. It's the facts. I hear the pain in your posts, but a car like this should NEVER be purchased without having an authorized mechanic - or someone with significant mechanical experience - review the car in detail and also drive the car. In fact that can be said for ANY car purchase - not just the RS6.

As for parting it out - BLASPHEMY! It's simply senseless to do such when a repair can make it near new. I have a car here with double that mileage and I could have parted it out simply because it had a bad turbo and other small odds and sods, but I elected to bite the bullet and put in the parts necessary to ensure the 1 of 860 survives. Lots of other examples that have met their fate due to accidents - no need to add another simply because you don't deem it worthy of your money. Sell it to someone who will keep it going.

Oh - and if it hasn't been said enough already above - DON'T bastardize the car with the piddly 2.7 just because. All of the Audi powerplants can be built to make more power. Buildingn a 2.7 isn't going to have any less problems than a 4.2. You limitation on the extent of your build is $$ and limited space in certain areas in the C5 chassis. You will also find that irrespective of how much $$ you put in to a 2.7 engine, you will have killed all resale value of the car. If you want to do this, go blow your wad on an A6 or S6 and bolt on some cosmetic bumpers, seats, and the like. Then you might actually recognize some of your work. You will get bent over doing what you're suggesting to an RS6.

Just sayin.

Hahaha! I knew that was coming and completely agree. That being said...
I was weighing all MY options. Clean title, fair mileage at 119, and I love the color combo of blue mugello and the light gray interior. I have two other a6's - a 4.2 and a 2.7, and a fully built 2.7 on the bench. The reason I am having such a hard time with this is not because of the money involved but how much better i like the rs than the other two. I have decided to sell the other two cars, and the built 2.7 engine (presuming they will actually sell for a reasonable price), and go all in with this rs. Proof? Here's the start of my sales: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/4916366698.html I am keeping the RS6 because I love this car and decided to spend the money and time to make it work for me. I will do the 01e swap, upgrade the turbos, and all maintenance while the engine is out. Hopefully these items will keep it on the road relatively pain-free for a while.

What it boils down to is the option I decide with my money and my car. I have always loved these cars but no matter what, I was going to do what made sense to me, not a bunch of people I don't know - no matter how much they did or did not like my decision. Nevertheless, I think my current path will please most of the members of the forum since I am not doing anything but making this RS6 a little better and I appreciate your input. Just makes my final decision that much easier. Keep it and make it better

[SteveKen]

I say do whatever you want. Best case is you start taking the drivetrain out and find that the problem is a simple fix and you leave it as is.

2.7T, VR6, LS3... Doesn't matter to me as long as you like it.

Its just a 12 year old car as far as I'm concerned.

[Fastguy]

Nothing beats the sound of a charged v8 IMO. Well, except for maybe a v12 or w16

already started disassembly tonight-service position and pulled the axles bolts while tires still on ground, and removed 6 top coilover bolts. This weekend will hopefully get to remove triple square bolts from two front axles and driveline to rear drive shaft, and get everything else above and below disconnected for the drop. Will remove turbos, have them rebuilt and tuned to get more boost, 550 cc injectors, 2.0 coil packs, motor and trans mounts, fx400 clutch, walbro 450 Lph fuel pump, new fuel filter, all maintenance gaskets seals and sensors, then for aesthetics I'm going to powder the bi pipes, intake, valve covers, and cold sides in white. Having the hotsides and manifolds ceramic coated. Removing sai, open dp's and code out 02's, and a better-than stage one tune. How's that sound? Once engine out and process truly starting I'll start a new thread for the progress

[SteveKen]

FX400 clutch suggests 2.7T 6MT.

Good luck. I can probably get you in touch with someone that's done it before if you have any questions.

[s8prtotype]

I'd say you are just the kind of owner she was looking for... ;)

Mine is in service position now and managed to get the drivers side valve cover off, but it was just too cold to continue today, so from tomorrow on i'll be tearing into what was a great running car when I picked it up lol. Maintenance life.

[Fastguy]

I'd say you are just the kind of owner she was looking for... ;)

Mine is in service position now and managed to get the drivers side valve cover off, but it was just too cold to continue today, so from tomorrow on i'll be tearing into what was a great running car when I picked it up lol. Maintenance life.

EXACTLY why I quit tonight. Toes numb standing on concrete slab. Suppose to warm up this weekend. Time for progress then.

[Fastguy]

FX400 clutch suggests 2.7T 6MT.

Good luck. I can probably get you in touch with someone that's done it before if you have any questions.

The second I get the engine out, which I'm hoping will be this week sometime, I'll pay you to get the kit ordered. Yes, that fx400 kit with a steel single mass flywheel was for my 2.7 build. If you recommend something else, especially since your kit comes with a flywheel, I can put my clutchmaster kit for sale and order what you think would work best. Keep in mind, I would hopefully like to hold the torque while still keeping as close as possible to a stock feel. Keeping chatter to a minimum and as light a pedal as is possible. My wife will drive this car too.

[Fastguy]

Is it the input shaft

Its all you. You can now say, "See, I told you so!"

16132

[Bigglezworth]

Winner, winner, chicken dinner....

[lswing]

Its all you. You can now say, "See, I told you so!"

16132

So that goes from trans to TC? Fuzzy pic, is it a clean break, did it just fall out when you separated the TC from trans?

[ben916]

that looks tiny compared to Crazy's broken input shaft...

[Fastguy]

So that goes from trans to TC? Fuzzy pic, is it a clean break, did it just fall out when you separated the TC from trans?
Sorry. Couldn't get it to focus on foreground. I can get a better pic. It pulled out. Touched it, Knew right away it was broken and pulled right out. Can look down in hole in front of trans and see the other end just as clean a break.