Rotors and Pads?

[JohnnyB]

Ok probably dumb questions but I don't have a lot of experience here.

Getting to be replacement time. After getting a quote of $2200 from a local shop (!!) citing mainly expense of parts. I did some digging and found what look to be decent deals on partsgeek.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2003/audi/rs6/brake/brake_rotor.html

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2003/audi/rs6/brake/brake_pad_set.html

I'm considering either the Centric rotors ($380/ea) or OE Quality ($318) and the Yellowstuff pads. I'm having a hard time finding decent reviews on either rotor brand. I found a good DIY guide (I have pretty much zero wrench experience but I'd really like to learn) so I'm considering doing this on my own and saving some coin. Am I crazy for attempting this on my own? And does anyone have any info on either of these rotors? Would I want to do the fronts as well, even though they still have some life left?

Thank you!

[lswing]

OEM or Zimmerman rotors, Hawk or EBC Yellow pads, independent shop. There's a thread recently going over all this, and stay away from parts geek...

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/31785-Gallardo-Audi-Brake-Rotor-Options

[JohnnyB]

Interesting. I've been searching for a thread on this but for whatever reason that one didn't show up. Thank you for the link!

What's the issue with Partsgeek?

[DHall1]

+1


........


OEM or Zimmerman rotors, Hawk or EBC Yellow pads, independent shop. There's a thread recently going over all this, and stay away from parts geek...

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/31785-Gallardo-Audi-Brake-Rotor-Options

[lswing]

Here's one mention of bad service, http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/31710-Rear-rotors-question

For searching, use Google, and add "site:rs6.com" in your search field.

[JohnnyB]

Here's one mention of bad service, http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/31710-Rear-rotors-question

For searching, use Google, and add "site:rs6.com" in your search field.

Holy Mindblown! How have I been on the internet this long and never known I could do this! Thanks, Friend!

Regarding PartsGeek, I'm seeing pretty much equal parts good and bad reviews, mostly dealing with service quality rather than part quality. Am I an idiot to roll the dice here? The prices are hard to beat...

[lswing]

My favorite piece of info I learned this year! I'd be tempted, but there are a good 5-10 other sites.

[Bigglezworth]

Buy the parts and do this yourself. Swapping rotors and pads is one of the easiest things to do on any car outside of changing the oil or a tire - I kid you not.

[lswing]

Buy the parts and do this yourself. Swapping rotors and pads is one of the easiest things to do on any car outside of changing the oil or a tire - I kid you not.

I only watch my mechanic work, but isn't the front caliper a bit tricky with the pads? He was cursing about something, design/style of it...

[Bigglezworth]

I only watch my mechanic work, but isn't the front caliper a bit tricky with the pads? He was cursing about something, design/style of it...Nope. Opposite of that. The pads are pie shaped to permit swap out without removing the caliper or rotor. There are two drift pins on the top that hold in sheet metal retainer clips, You simply get a hammer and a drift and tap them out. Once out you wiggle the rotor a bit to push the pistons back in to the caliper and free up the pressure of the pads and then use a screw driver (or even your fingers) to push each pad up and out of the caliper. Then it's merely a 3/8 rachet with a 10mm allen head socket (or a 10mm allen head wrench of course) to take off teh two bolts that hold the caliper to the spindle. Hang caliper from some metal wire or a metal coat hook that is tied to the upper spring to ensure the brake lines don't get stretched and bent with the weight of the caliper (it does weight quite a bit).

IF the drift pins become seized inside the caliper (something that can occur on cars that drive in winter climates with salt on the roads), this might be easier said then done. The option is to then remove the caliper with the pads still installed (something that most calipers do anyway), and once removed, push each pad off it's seat and in towards where the caiiper sits. Do one at a time so that you con't struggle with the retention clip, and you'll have the pads swapped out in 5 minutes.

Rotor is held in place by the wheel when it bolts up, so all you need to do is pull one off and put other on. Use a couple of lugs to keep it from dropping on the floor while you remount the caliper. Install tire. Push pedal 2-3 times to ensure brake is pressurized.

I'm not joking when I say pads and rotors can be swapped on the front of this car in under 30 minutes - both sides - from drive in to drive out

[RSoverAll]

Interesting. I've been searching for a thread on this but for whatever reason that one didn't show up. Thank you for the link!

What's the issue with Partsgeek?

Avoid partsgeek as mentioned in this post and various others. I've never bought from them but a few friends have and received the wrong part, when they tried to contact them about a return Partsgeek would only communicate via email and they took 3 weeks to get their money returned minus a restocking fee.

Cheaper parts maybe but the non-existent customer service in the event something goes wrong is not worth the headache. Buy the best you can afford and save by installing the parts yourself.

[hahnmgh63]

I think the Centric are one piece rotors so you may be saving money with them but you gain unsprung Weight, and putting more heat into the Wheel bearing & bearing seals.

[lswing]

I think the Centric are one piece rotors so you may be saving money with them but you gain unsprung Weight, and putting more heat into the Wheel bearing & bearing seals.

Agreed, would stay away, not that much cheaper really, especially for a part that lasts years.

[Bigglezworth]

Isolated hubs are indeed done to prevent heat soak from the rotor to the wheel bearings. If you don't track your car hard, or aren't doing multiple high speed slow downs, you can certainly look to eliminate the isoltated hubs. Most won't do this simply because they aren't that rigid with their driving... lol

[JohnnyB]

Thank you guys for the great info. So I'm getting enough feedback to stay away from Parts Geek. They're not THAT much cheaper anyway and the last thing I need is another headache.

I can't seem to find Zimmerman rear rotors anywhere. Front discs are abundant but for whatever reason rears are difficult to come by. Anyone have a lead on a decent site? The other thread has a few links to Advance Auto but they're sold out. Anyone out there have a good lead on those?

I've been reading up on pads and I'm torn between EBC (yellowstuff) and Hawk HPS. Seems like a compulsive argument can be made for either. It might come down to what I can get a better deal on.

I found this DIY guide for brakes and discs: http://www.yellowdogracing.com/Audibrakes.htm. Looks pretty simple to follow. This would be my first real DIY job (oil and tire changes notwithstanding) but hey, we all gotta start somewhere. Anyone been here and have any beginner tricks for me? I'm hoping to get a friend to help who does have a little experience but he's kinda flaky so it may end up being just me and this nifty guide.

And the last dealer said I had about 4mm on the front pads. Do I need to do those as well, to keep everything uniform? Will I need to change the discs every time I do the pads?Thank you guys for helping me out. This vehicle is by far the most fun car I've ever had (and also the most expensive) and you guys are a wonderful community. I'm thankful to be a part of it.

[Falltboat]

Johnny i'm putting some yellowstuff fronts on my car this week, from what I hear they are solid. We should set up a Denver meet some time. There are 3-4 more in the area somewhere. I would replace the fronts if they are OEM lots of horror stories about them cutting into the rotors. http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/23199-Low-Brake-Pad-Dash-Light for example.

[JohnnyB]

I'm definitely in for a Denver meet. I saw one pull in to a costco near my house and tried to catch the owner buy they'd already gone inside. Would be pretty sweet to have a Denver cab on this Crazy Train.

Should I replace front discs as well, or just pads? I'm pretty sure they're all OEM currently.

[G2]

Centric is an import brand. Have used their products for a decade plus at shops w/o issue. Would i use their rotors on an RS6....not a chance. They are either knocking them off or rebranding is my guess.

Stick with OEM/audi or Zimmerman brands.

EBC pads are probably the best for cheap. Yellow is good all-round (not sure if I'd hit the track with these). Very recently put EBC Blue pads on a RS6 and seemed fine even when cold. Very progressive, even when new. Had Hawk pads on it (not sure which ones)- OK, but not much better IMHO than OE type (which can be dreadful). Can't speak to any more experience on Hawk. Changing my car from Yellow's to Blue very soon....(the Blues were for my car but mr. customer got them)

While doing brakes is "simple" very few actually perform a "proper" brake service. There are many little steps involved. Cleaning, lubing, purging brake fluid. Rear brakes require a way to screw the pistons back in (acroyn: PITA). Special tools are available. Most front brakes need or should have the brake hoses replaced from what I've seen (worked on 3 rs6's and 1 R8 in the last couple months). A complete brake flush should be done (every 2yrs). Keep in mind the front calipers have 2 bleed nipples per caliper (don't strip them...). There is a flush procedure for the dual diagonal brake system. A pressurized fluid flush tool is preferred, unless you have 2 people. What brake fluid to use? DOT 4 LV Pentosin is my go to. 'LV' is crucial to the proper operation of ABS/ESP system and meets the latest federal specs. Brakes feel better in daily driving also. (you'll need 1/2 gal, BTW).

There is a lot of cleaning involved. Scrubing, sanding/prepping all surfaces where the pads sit, wheel hubs, even the wheels- all mounting surfaces of every component. Proper use of caliper lube, antiseize and loctite. Good quality tools are needed- torque wrenches. The caliper carrier bolts should be replaced per VOA. There's a brake hardware kit available (guide pins and pad retainer). Good idea to get that.

There is some skill involved aligning the caliper to carrier (if the 2 radial bolts are removed; or weren't aligned from the prior brake service). Front brakes, of course.

Will most shops, or even some, do all this? No. Neither will most DIY'ers (sorry, it's the reality). Very few pro's do (or can) because the flat rate times allotted for most services are inadequate to real world conditions. Are all these little steps needed? Yes, at least on my cars and the ones I work on-- even basic daily driver cars. They get the same care. Our 8 pot Brembo calipers are race brakes. I know qualified and experience auto tech's that have little to no clue about them. But they know the basics enough to be safe.

Brakes are indeed easy. But the devil is in the details.......ones that will effect the wear, longevity, performance, even safety. When brakes cost what they do for these cars, no expense should be spared on the labor side of the check sheet.

Ignorance just isn't bliss, not on these machines ;-)

[JohnnyB]

Wow, thank you for that info! I agree that if I'm going to take the time to do it, I should make sure I'm doing it right and not cutting any corners. And a lot of this info wasn't on any DIY guide so it's certainly helpful. I know I'm biting off a lot here but I knew that before I purchased the car and told myself that if I was going to pull the trigger, I'd need to learn how to do a lot of these things on my own.

[Other_Erik]

Avoid partsgeek as mentioned in this post and various others. I've never bought from them but a few friends have and received the wrong part, when they tried to contact them about a return Partsgeek would only communicate via email and they took 3 weeks to get their money returned minus a restocking fee.

Cheaper parts maybe but the non-existent customer service in the event something goes wrong is not worth the headache. Buy the best you can afford and save by installing the parts yourself.

Seconding this - bought front rotors from partsgeek when they ran a special. Their picture was OEM Factory cross-drilled 2-piece discs. Their description clearly said OEM, with the proper part numbers for Audi-labeled factory discs. Got the box, they'd sent me off-brand, flat, one-piece rotors. Called them up, they dicked me around for about a half hour on the phone, then gave me an RMA number. Sent the rotors back (at my expense) and waited... and waited.. and waited some more. After about 3 weeks, called them up to complain, gave the RMA number they'd given me, turns out that number was for someone else's return, and the RMA number for my return was 1 digit different. Finally did a chargeback through my CC company. Never doing business with partsgeek again - huge waste of time and money - cost me ~$50 to send their crap back to them.

O_E

[Dmb408]

Since we are on the topic. G2, any tricks for preventing our brakes from squeaking post-change. The prior owner to mine changed them right before selling, basically changed them, car sat for months with no more than 100 miles then it shipped to me and I have barely driven. They squeak a ton, if I bed them early on in my drive real hard this gets rid of it for a while until they cool again. Should I spray with cleaner some nice day in the spring and then really go out and bed them hard right after with a couple 40-50mph to near zero stops successively?

[G2]

Dmb408- sounds like the prior owner just "threw" pads on it. Meaning the rotors were not resurfaced at the same time. Squeaking is basically the equivalent of the pads finding friction and then losing it again very quickly (over and over), creating the noise we hear. Glazed rotors and pads will accentuate it.

Sounds like the hard braking deglazes the pad but not the rotor, and reglazes shortly thereafter. My guess is the pads are low end, and the rotors were left as-is. At minimum one can try putting a non-directional finish onto the rotor. I use an airpowered scuffer wheel with 3M scotchbright type scuff pads. If the rotor is worn and discolored ("blued"/dark grey-blue color) then it's effectively heat treated on the surface. The surface becomes too hard. That is why rotors are machined (mainly),but the benefit is warped rotors can also be made flat again.

May need new pads-- I would avoid ceramic type pads as they are very hard. Worn or loose brake shims/guides can add to the problem. Not really an issue on these brakes (due to fixed caliper design), but the retainer spring plate needs to firmly press on the pads. I have been spraying anti-squeal goop on the back of pads for this car. Mainly to help with pad retraction, not for the anti-sqeal "aid". Pads that do not retract far enough will drag and become glazed (and wear more).

EBC pads come with a "bed-in" surface prep sprayed on. Sounds like rocks in the brakes at first few stops, but does help to cleanup old rotors. It's a band-aid, but does help.

Hammering on the brakes won't hurt anything and is worth a try. Pads come pre-bedded nowadays. The pad may seat better (to the worn rotor). Most OE type pads won't take much heat so be mindful about over doing it. It'll make the symptoms worse and can reduce braking power afterwards. -- The rotors take forever to cool down. I'd suggest driving for at least 5-10 minutes afterwards. (took a fellah out for a quick town blast once and did a 3 min cool down run, but the rotors popped and tinked, rather loudly, for over 20mins afterwards- thankfully the big wheels help with air flow some).

Last resort for a quick fix is using a special graphite based brake spray (3M/Permatex i think) to spray the rotors. It bonds into the metal and pad, creating a more slippery but controlled friction surface. Not my first choice on this car, but has worked on other cars with sloppy slider type caliper brakes prone to being noisy.

My guess is new pads and resurfaced or new rotors will be on the menu at some point.

[Dmb408]

Thank you for the thorough response. It's funny though, they are OE, I got the receipts. They were done by a regular joe indy shop but the billing (and price) indicates OE. On your hammering comment you mean just hammer the rotor right to break up any bonds in the metal if they are weak? Or do you mean hammering as in hard stops?

[G2]

Could be a different brand but with the same P/N. That is common. OE pads are pretty aggressive in eating thru rotors from what I've seen.

Bit of slang there, but yes, "Hammering" meant applying the brake hard over and over.

Only way I know to alter the metal is either by machining/turning the rotor or by cryogenic treatment.

[lswing]

Thanks for all the details Gary, good stuff!

Soon after I bought my car, got some squeaking, checked it out and sensor pins from stock pads were cutting into rotors. Resurfaced rotors and put new Hawk HPS Plus pads on, perfect!

New rotors and EBC Yellows for kicks are next on my list...probably a year away.

Run your fingernail down your rotors, any lines/grooves cutting in?

And...the European blokes on rs246 are now saying new OEM Pads don't have the pins, still too much dust for me, and low temp bite sacrificing high temp bite and wear.

[G2]

I can get a bit "ranty" during my informative sessions- sorry! But I still learn something new everyday.

The wear sensors are really thick on this car. Eyeball the pads, seems like there's 30-40%, but it's more like 5-10%. The EBC pads are quite thick which is nice.

Wish I had more miles on the Blue pads, but liked the feel from mile 1. Yellow's have excellent cold (freezing cold) bite for this car. Probably a better daily driver type pad.

OE pads just don't seem to work well on this car....for what we're after anyways.


Alas, prices keep going up. I should have stockpiled rotors for this car last year. Bet 1/2 the places that sell these rotors won't actually have them in stock. Or will change their price soon as someone inquires. Or pull a Parts Geek switcha-roo (terrible to hear companies pull that BS).

[G2]

If anyone needs OE rotors: (lowest priced on Ebay)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331487017742?item=331487017742&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

I also listed the rear OEM rotors on Ebay.


My EBC wholesaler is going to stock RS6 pads for me/shop in both Yellow and BlueStuff. This will lower the cost a bit and eliminate special order lead times. Can make up brake kits, to include the hardware kits, fasteners, brake lines and fluid.

Able to offer Zimmerman rotors also. Among other items.

Willing to do what I can on prices for those on this forum. And you'll get the right parts from someone with a vested interest in this car, and of our group.

Alright gang, just a short note for now-- back into the shop for some hot rod engine building :race:

[audiprotn]

Found the cheapest place for Zimmerman, on Amazon
$550 shipped
Ordered one set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FFFXEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Z760ZS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[G2]

It's actually closer to $600.

Anyone get them so far?

[audiprotn]

It's actually closer to $600.

Anyone get them so far?
It was $550, then went up a bit as soon as i ordered them.
OEM Zimmermans, been running them for two weeks already.

[G2]

Put these up on the For Sale section:
http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/32072-FS-New-Zimmerman-Front-Rotors-for-C5-RS6-Lowest-Price-Available-to-4-25?p=273787#post273787

[Aronis]

Be careful with those PINS. Mine were rusted in 6 years ago.....you are better off removing the Caliper and placing the pads in from the inside. The first time I did my brake pads those pins were a snap to remove, but as the thing aged those pins became stuck, but good. I tired to DRILL them out by hand but as I did that I realized it is very easy to remove the caliper as you HAVE to to change the ROTOR. I did the passenger side by just doing that, remove the caliper. My Driver's side caliper still has the partly drilled out pins still in place about 50 k miles later. I've done the Rotor's Twice and Pads 4 times. I'm due for new rotors all around, but the pads are still pretty new. Dam those rotors are expensive.

[MotorCity6]

New to the board and saw this was the most recent mention of ROTORS + PADS. 6 months into owning a beast and need to replace them... so far I have replaced everything with OEM/Audi brand parts. From what I gather though with a proper set up you guys recommend either OEM or Zimmerman ROTORS and then the EBC pads (some say Hawk but have read not-the-best reviews for Hawk as well). A lot of y'all push the Yellowstuff but I see the Blues are more high-performance for EBC and I drive like an outlaw in Michigan haha.. Simple question:

What is the "best" ROTOR/PAD setup for the RS6? Spare no expense {but hey if anyone has connects on priced parts would love to utilize, nothing's cheap but won't pass up a good deal!} Thanks for your time in advance. Best--

[lswing]

New to the board and saw this was the most recent mention of ROTORS + PADS. 6 months into owning a beast and need to replace them... so far I have replaced everything with OEM/Audi brand parts. From what I gather though with a proper set up you guys recommend either OEM or Zimmerman ROTORS and then the EBC pads (some say Hawk but have read not-the-best reviews for Hawk as well). A lot of y'all push the Yellowstuff but I see the Blues are more high-performance for EBC and I drive like an outlaw in Michigan haha.. Simple question:

What is the "best" ROTOR/PAD setup for the RS6? Spare no expense {but hey if anyone has connects on priced parts would love to utilize, nothing's cheap but won't pass up a good deal!} Thanks for your time in advance. Best--

Welcome! Post up a thread with your car info and last 5 of VIN if you could. And take a look here for some general RS6 info, http://audirssix.com/

Personally I'll be going with Zimmerman/OEM, and probably try the EBC Yellow pads next time around. The Hawk HPS Plus is a very predictable pad with low dust and no noise. This is the second car I've run them on and haven't really heard any of the so-so reviews. They aren't the most aggressive pad, and really need to be warm to perform, but that goes with the low dust and general comfort I think. The EBC Yellows have a good reputation, just don't run EBC reds.

Sure there are many more aggressive or sometimes performance/fancy setups out there, but are they are rarely needed, and sometimes seem laden with issues. Upgrade your lines or fluid if you're thinking about the track or extra aggressive driving.

Edit; do a Google search with "site:rs6.com" included in your topic. You'll get site specific results. Sometimes the links have adult pages and other crap that loads up, just go back and then into the link again and it should be good.

[Dmb408]

MotorCity we need to have a Detroit meet up, I know there are now at least 6 RS6's in the area. Obviously likely more because I know Auto Europe probably services more than that themselves.

[Other_Erik]

New to the board and saw this was the most recent mention of ROTORS + PADS. 6 months into owning a beast and need to replace them... so far I have replaced everything with OEM/Audi brand parts. From what I gather though with a proper set up you guys recommend either OEM or Zimmerman ROTORS and then the EBC pads (some say Hawk but have read not-the-best reviews for Hawk as well). A lot of y'all push the Yellowstuff but I see the Blues are more high-performance for EBC and I drive like an outlaw in Michigan haha.. Simple question:

What is the "best" ROTOR/PAD setup for the RS6? Spare no expense {but hey if anyone has connects on priced parts would love to utilize, nothing's cheap but won't pass up a good deal!} Thanks for your time in advance. Best--


Welcome! Post up a thread with your car info and last 5 of VIN if you could. And take a look here for some general RS6 info, http://audirssix.com/

Personally I'll be going with Zimmerman/OEM, and probably try the EBC Yellow pads next time around. The Hawk HPS Plus is a very predictable pad with low dust and no noise. This is the second car I've run them on and haven't really heard any of the so-so reviews. They aren't the most aggressive pad, and really need to be warm to perform, but that goes with the low dust and general comfort I think. The EBC Yellows have a good reputation, just don't run EBC reds.

Sure there are many more aggressive or sometimes performance/fancy setups out there, but are they are rarely needed, and sometimes seem laden with issues. Upgrade your lines or fluid if you're thinking about the track or extra aggressive driving.

Edit; do a Google search with "site:rs6.com" included in your topic. You'll get site specific results. Sometimes the links have adult pages and other crap that loads up, just go back and then into the link again and it should be good.

Just my opinion here, YMMV.

If no expense is to be spared, go big or go home. 19+" rims to clear 380mm rotors and calipers from the newer Gallardo (or 21" rims to go with a Gallardo BBK, full carbon ceramic rotors, etc...) just be ready to pay about what you probably paid for the RS6 itself.

If you want to stick with stock calipers (which are pretty damn good anyway!), 2014 RS5 scalloped rotors have been holding up VERY well for me, recommend buying NEW and having them cryogenically treated for longer and more even wear. I daily drive with Hawk High Performance Ceramic pads, they're my recommendation of best bang-for-the-buck stopping power with very little noise and very little dust. If you want more power, look for track pads and be ready to warm them up before driving like a maniac. If you want to go all-out on a budget, Stainless braided lines will run you about $200 custom-cut to proper length, and 2 quarts of DOT5.1 spec brake fluid (higher wet/dry boiling points than stock DOT4), I bough mine on Amazon for ~$30. Just be absolutely sure it's 5.1 - DOT5(.0) brake fluid will destroy your brake master cylinder seals. I think others here have pointed to some even higher boiling-point fluids (rbf600 IIRC?)

[MotorCity6]

wow thanks for the love boyz, couple hours + a couple responses already... Other_Erik, spare no expense beyond rotors + pads! I should never use the phrase "spare no expense" with this car as nothing is relatively close to normal spending haha... I just bought the car so don't need to buy all new shoes etc yet... however I did stumble onto that Gallardo page a few days ago and thought it was badass.
lswing + OE will definitely look into getting new lines and upgrading the fluid very soon as that has been brought up before. Thanks for the details on that & OE may have a few more questions when go ahead and get it all done...
So the Hawk HP Plus are their top-end? And realistically yellows are a more versatile pad whereas the blues are for more track performance?
How do Hawk and EBC compare in everyone's modest opinion?
And other than going Lamborghini on the Audi it seems OEM/Zimmerman is the best option?

[MotorCity6]

MotorCity we need to have a Detroit meet up, I know there are now at least 6 RS6's in the area. Obviously likely more because I know Auto Europe probably services more than that themselves.

and hell yeah, let me know. I live on 6 mile.

[audiprotn]

EBC yellow + Zimmerman rotors is a good combo, and i think the most popular over here.

Here is where i got mine from
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Z760ZS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FFFXEI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[cruzanrs6]

Just to throw out, NAPA on (I believe the second Saturday of each month has a 50% sale). I can pick up the Zimmerman (OE equivalent) for around $275 ea for the fronts - I'm considering the JH Motorsports (2 piece at $795 + shipping, so around $840 - from Ca. to Or.). The replacement rings are $544 pr - so it would be cheaper than the stocks. I don't know the braking comparison and life rating vs. the stock.

[lswing]

Just to throw out, NAPA on (I believe the second Saturday of each month has a 50% sale). I can pick up the Zimmerman (OE equivalent) for around $275 ea for the fronts - I'm considering the JH Motorsports (2 piece at $795 + shipping, so around $840 - from Ca. to Or.). The replacement rings are $544 pr - so it would be cheaper than the stocks. I don't know the braking comparison and life rating vs. the stock.

Search for all the random user problems with JHM, wouldn't go close myself. There's a long nasty thread about it...

[Other_Erik]

Search for all the random user problems with JHM, wouldn't go close myself. There's a long nasty thread about it...

I went for JHM rear 2piece rotors, so far no complaints but agreed would not do the fronts, too much at stake for those. On the plus side, my scalloped RS5 front rotors are holding up well and doing their job.

On pads, it's all about what you want. I wanted low dust, low noise, good stopping power warm or cold, and low price, so hawk HP ceramics fit the bill perfectly. Plenty of reviews here of different pads, as others said just stay away from oem and ebc reds.

Feel free to pm me if you have any questions, or post back up in this thread or a new one, I'm here _all the time_

O_E

[cruzanrs6]

ECS Tuning shows the O.E.M. rears in stock for $887.82 /pr (free shipping). Out here in Oregon, the rears (Zimmerman) are available through NAPA at around $300 ea.

[MotorCity6]

EBC yellow + Zimmerman rotors is a good combo, and i think the most popular over here.

Here is where i got mine from
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Z760ZS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FFFXEI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Thank you sir

[MotorCity6]

ECS Tuning shows the O.E.M. rears in stock for $887.82 /pr (free shipping). Out here in Oregon, the rears (Zimmerman) are available through NAPA at around $300 ea.


What is the major difference/s between the Zimmerman + OEM (if any or little)? Thanks for the heads up on sourcing parts.

[MotorCity6]

Believe am going with the Yellowstuffs and probably OEM rotors unless someone has a convincing argument otherwise to use Zimmerman.
Is it safe to say the best option for value is to keep searching for lowest price on rotors + pads or is there a "superior" site to all?

[audiprotn]

Believe am going with the Yellowstuffs and probably OEM rotors unless someone has a convincing argument otherwise to use Zimmerman.
Is it safe to say the best option for value is to keep searching for lowest price on rotors + pads or is there a "superior" site to all?
Zimmermans are OEM quality.
Places like europarts for example only sell Zimms
http://www.europaparts.com/audi/rs/rs6-c5.html?main_category=540&subcategory=247

[MotorCity6]

Zimmermans are OEM quality.
Places like europarts for example only sell Zimms
http://www.europaparts.com/audi/rs/rs6-c5.html?main_category=540&subcategory=247

excellent, thank you.

[G2]

What is the major difference/s between the Zimmerman + OEM (if any or little)? Thanks for the heads up on sourcing parts.

OEM has a nicer finish to match the rear. The zimmermans I just got in where sand blasted or shot peened. Not the prettiest. Will of course work fine.

If you want a one stop shop and don't mind going non-big-box-on-line-retailer but with competitive prices, willing to help.

I have OEM front rotors for not much more than the Europa zimms. And OEM rotors are but a click away for next day delivery to me.

EBC Yellow stuff pad sets coming in later this week. Shipping brakes all across the country and even Canada lately.

Just a thought.

[MotorCity6]

Got a quote for just under $1600 for a full set of OEM rotors from a member on the board, how's this price compare to anything else out there on the market right now? Even if Zimms don't mind using if price is drastically different. And an EBC pad quote for $220..? Want to order rotors/pads by Saturday. Please respond with feedback or helpful links, thanks--

[MotorCity6]

Looked at the link for Zimmermans provided on this thread and they go for 300 + 277... however part numbers are different for Zims to OEM (or maybe I am mistaken). the numbers I have for OEM are:

front cross drilled rotor
4B3 615 301 E
4B3 615 302 A
front non cross drilled rotor
4B3 615 301 B
4B3 615 302
rear cross drilled rotor
4B3 615 601 C
4B3 615 602 A
rear non cross drilled rotor
4B3 615 601 B
4B3 615 602

... are these correct? and are the zimmerman rotors in the amazon link posted by audiprotn the proper model number/part? Thanks again--

[G2]

Got a quote for just under $1600 for a full set of OEM rotors from a member on the board, how's this price compare to anything else out there on the market right now? Even if Zimms don't mind using if price is drastically different. And an EBC pad quote for $220..? Want to order rotors/pads by Saturday. Please respond with feedback or helpful links, thanks--

Guilty as charged :rs6kiss:

Can't see how it could be any better from one reliable source --- not just brakes, but pretty much everything service wise for this car. Might be better than chasing things down and piece mealing a kit together for us full time working folks.

I only have a couple sets of brakes, BTW.

[MotorCity6]

definitely agree one source is best and I look forward to building a relationship but I have only been on the board a week and am simply allowing others a few days to voice their opinions or provide connections. much appreciated tho--