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dab
January 23rd, 2015, 13:52
my car died as I am driving home, I saw the oil light come on, then the transmission lights up. Car turns over but will not start. Had it towed to a local shop and they are telling me the ecu is showing two codes something about a serial port and one other around ecu error. The car will start briefly and then stop. Apr chipped many years ago and never had any issues. When it died the first time, I tried to take it back to the stock setting on a hunch and obviously I got no response. The shop I took it too can't do anything else so I am having it towed to the shop that updated the chip, an apr reseller.

Does anybody have any similar experiences?????

DHall1
January 23rd, 2015, 13:56
Has happened before

Apr chip pins come loose

New ecu and apr puts a new chip in


my car died as I am driving home, I saw the oil light come on, then the transmission lights up. Car turns over but will not start. Had it towed to a local shop and they are telling me the ecu is showing two codes something about a serial port and one other around ecu error. The car will start briefly and then stop. Apr chipped many years ago and never had any issues. When it died the first time, I tried to take it back to the stock setting on a hunch and obviously I got no response. The shop I took it too can't do anything else so I am having it towed to the shop that updated the chip, an apr reseller.

Does anybody have any similar experiences?????

dab
January 23rd, 2015, 14:04
thanks dhall, any idea on cost?

lswing
January 23rd, 2015, 14:48
Odd that a few of these APR chips have come loose, certainly for the $2k it is for the tune? I would assume that APR would cover the work for free, just send it back to them, it's already wasting hours of your time, plus tow and mechanic costs.

MaxRS6
January 23rd, 2015, 15:38
My APR chip went loose after many moons. My ECU was not toast. I sent the ECU to APR and they repaired/updated software at no cost.

marklar182
January 23rd, 2015, 16:05
ECU uses low melt solder normall,y s0 just use a heat gun on low (carefully) and heat the chip & pins and then press down on the chip an hold for a few seconds.

I have fixed many ECU and surface mount PCB issues this way.

10SecS4
January 23rd, 2015, 16:11
Here's the deal. APR still uses dinosaur aged, soldered in chips for their "high end" software as opposed to flashing the ECM. When I say high end I'm referring to the software they charge top buck for, such as the RS6. For security purposes and to deter people from copying, modifying, etc. their code, they solder an EMCS module to the ECM board. It's actually more than a chip; it's an actual processor. Anyway, while it may be a better, more secure solution for them from a prying eyes standpoint, it's much less reliable than simply flashing the ECM (software only, no hardware changes are made). So what typically happens is over time from driving and NVH, one of the pads on the board loses contact with the chip and renders the car inoperable. Sometimes it can be repaired, other times it cannot. In the event that it can be repaired, it's usually a "band aid" fix and it winds up happening again much sooner than the first time. This is why flashing the ECM is a much better and reliable way to go. Hope this helps.

lswing
January 23rd, 2015, 16:20
Here's the deal. APR still uses dinosaur aged, soldered in chips for their "high end" software as opposed to flashing the ECM. When I say high end I'm referring to the software they charge top buck for, such as the RS6. For security purposes and to deter people from copying, modifying, etc. their code, they solder an EMCS module to the ECM board. It's actually more than a chip; it's an actual processor. Anyway, while it may be a better, more secure solution for them from a prying eyes standpoint, it's much less reliable than simply flashing the ECM (software only, no hardware changes are made). So what typically happens is over time from driving and NVH, one of the pads on the board loses contact with the chip and renders the car inoperable. Sometimes it can be repaired, other times it cannot. In the event that it can be repaired, it's usually a "band aid" fix and it winds up happening again much sooner than the first time. This is why flashing the ECM is a much better and reliable way to go. Hope this helps.

So you're saying it should have been flashed with your tune in the first place:) Empty your inbox if you haven't, some folks were looking for you. Good info, thanks!

nistah
January 23rd, 2015, 23:19
Here's the deal. APR still uses dinosaur aged, soldered in chips for their "high end" software as opposed to flashing the ECM.

I spoke to the APR rep @ H2O last year and he quoted me $2650 for APR's RS6 tune and that was the "sale" price. Unless I missed something it appears that APR is using last generation technology and charging $2000 more than other vendors who offer similar tunes delivered with more current ecu flash technology.

orcars6
January 25th, 2015, 19:17
Yes, if any remember my stock ECU fried last Dec. 2014- it was thus replaced with new from factory in Germany. The only explanation was water damage on ABS harness effected ECU and shorted electrical wiring and fried ECU....ABS and vacuum pump were replaced along with ECU. Costs were covered by Fidelity approx. $2,500.00 ECU at dealership. I can dig out paperwork if you like? Every error imaginable was reading and car was brought back from the dead!

dab
January 26th, 2015, 14:13
Here's the deal. APR still uses dinosaur aged, soldered in chips for their "high end" software as opposed to flashing the ECM. When I say high end I'm referring to the software they charge top buck for, such as the RS6. For security purposes and to deter people from copying, modifying, etc. their code, they solder an EMCS module to the ECM board. It's actually more than a chip; it's an actual processor. Anyway, while it may be a better, more secure solution for them from a prying eyes standpoint, it's much less reliable than simply flashing the ECM (software only, no hardware changes are made). So what typically happens is over time from driving and NVH, one of the pads on the board loses contact with the chip and renders the car inoperable. Sometimes it can be repaired, other times it cannot. In the event that it can be repaired, it's usually a "band aid" fix and it winds up happening again much sooner than the first time. This is why flashing the ECM is a much better and reliable way to go. Hope this helps.

no you trying to sell your tune doesn't help at all.

dab
January 26th, 2015, 14:13
Yes, if any remember my stock ECU fried last Dec. 2014- it was thus replaced with new from factory in Germany. The only explanation was water damage on ABS harness effected ECU and shorted electrical wiring and fried ECU....ABS and vacuum pump were replaced along with ECU. Costs were covered by Fidelity approx. $2,500.00 ECU at dealership. I can dig out paperwork if you like? Every error imaginable was reading and car was brought back from the dead!

2500 ouch, my warranty expired in december.

Bigglezworth
January 26th, 2015, 15:18
no you trying to sell your tune doesn't help at all.Woah horsey... No where in the feedback is there anything about selling a tune. Simply experience talking from someone who knows what they are talking about when it comes to ECU flashing vs. ECU modifying.

10SecS4
January 26th, 2015, 15:20
I couldn't sell him my tune even if he wanted it... His ECU would need a stock EPROM for that. ;)


Woah horsey... No where in the feedback is there anything about selling a tune. Simply experience talking from someone who knows what they are talking about when it comes to ECU flashing vs. ECU modifying.

Bdubs
January 26th, 2015, 15:39
@dab - hopefully you get it figured out and it doesn't torpedo your finances at the same time. In my experience, it seems that I always spend the most money on my cars just before I sell them...part bad timing / part not wanting to sell someone else a problem that I have...but, I've also benefited from others "investing" heavily in cars they have then sold me, so I guess it all comes full circle.

DHall1
January 26th, 2015, 16:31
This would be the route to go first before spending cash on a new ecu. It still may need the ecu but may as well try this first......cant hurt.

If it needs newecu then car has to go to dealer for immob coding

If not....then anyone can r and r the ecu and send it in..

.
My APR chip went loose after many moons. My ECU was not toast. I sent the ECU to APR and they repaired/updated software at no cost.

dab
January 26th, 2015, 16:36
@dab - hopefully you get it figured out and it doesn't torpedo your finances at the same time. In my experience, it seems that I always spend the most money on my cars just before I sell them...part bad timing / part not wanting to sell someone else a problem that I have...but, I've also benefited from others "investing" heavily in cars they have then sold me, so I guess it all comes full circle.

No kidding both of my vehicles are up for sale, both are 2003 and both are costing me cash.

Bigglezworth
January 26th, 2015, 16:46
No kidding both of my vehicles are up for sale, both are 2003 and both are costing me cash.I empathize. I have a trio of these rides and after overhauling the one last year find myself overhauling the second this year. lol Have always said it's not an affordable car to own if you need to rely on a second party to perform the work.

10SecS4
January 26th, 2015, 17:05
You don't need to bring the car to the dealer for immobilizer coding. It can be done via VAG-COM.


This would be the route to go first before spending cash on a new ecu. It still may need the ecu but may as well try this first......cant hurt.

If it needs newecu then car has to go to dealer for immob coding

If not....then anyone can r and r the ecu and send it in..

.

Bigglezworth
January 26th, 2015, 17:32
You don't need to bring the car to the dealer for immobilizer coding. It can be done via VAG-COM.You're absolutely right Marc, but just like I was with the ECU's a few months back, most people (including those that have a high level of mechanical aptitude), find the electrical matters associated with ECU's, TCU's, the instrument cluster, and swapping/adding a smart key a bit ominous. You miss one step and you can end up with a great lawn ornament until someone with more experience fixes your mess up. Not quite as forgiving as missing a bolt or a gasket. lol

dab
January 28th, 2015, 16:32
Latest update - ecu pins came loose, APR is fixing for free. I have had it chipped since I bought the car in 2006, APR you will get my business again.

Bigglezworth
January 28th, 2015, 16:53
Latest update - ecu pins came loose, APR is fixing for free. I have had it chipped since I bought the car in 2006, APR you will get my business again.


Has happened before

Apr chip pins come loose

New ecu and apr puts a new chip in

Winner, winner, chicken dinner....

Good to hear they are performing the rework at their cost. This is as it should be with good product and service. Hope you're back running strong soon.

dab
January 31st, 2015, 16:11
The latest in posts, picked up the beast yesterday. Pulling like a frieght train for a cost of 178, yes 178 american which included two hid fog bulbs and the majority was what I paid for overnight shipping. Thanks to Epwerks here in Indy, dropped the car off one week ago to these guys. Now who is going to buy this???? The guys at Epwerks said it is in really good shape the best of the rs/6's they work on.