Survey; When did your cam adjuster/tensioner(s) fail?

[lswing]

Just wanting to log this as it seems to be up there in the costly repair category, and a buyer should be aware this will happen around/after 100k.

Rough idle and flashing CEL on startup; upon scan the driver engine bank 5, 6, 7, 8 was mis-firing. Upon scanning measuring blocks (70 & 72?), the cam adjuster on driver side was reading -7 (not working), while the other reading 16 (working).

So mine went, plastic roller for chain completely shattered on drivers side, at 98k. So far no other damage that we know of, and will also be replacing passenger side (which is a pain).

Here's my updated list, will keep adding to it. Who else has changed this lovely $650-850 part, times two?

Hey, if every part on this car lasted 100k miles I'd be happy!

MaxRS6
Cam adjuster went out at 95K.

lswing
Drivers side cam adjuster disintegrated at 98k, passenger worn but replaced also.

fbatwork
Replaced at 65k, mostly worn, 25% left on plastic guides.

[P1054]

Well I'm at 120k and they're still holding up. Fingers crossed for another long while!

[lswing]

Well I'm at 120k and they're still holding up. Fingers crossed for another long while!

Hope so. Figure oil quality and driving temp play into the degradation of the plastic rollers. I'd replace next time you need to open things up. As far as I know my passenger side one is fine. I'll be cleaning it up once removed, and looking closely for hairline fractures starting, will post high res photos.

[DHall1]

How many of you park then open your hood?

At home I pull in the climate controlled garage....open the hood.....turn on the box fan that blows across the engine.

Heat soak is a killer

[hahnmgh63]

I'm anal like Dave. Everytime I get home the hood gets opened. All vehicles including making my girlfriend open hers too. Did I spell this right? Was my punctuation correct. Should this be caps....bold..... No issues here.

[DHall1]

At work...everyone asks whats wrong with my Audi. The hood is always up

:-)

[lswing]

Always have when driven hard/hot, maybe the Texas heat finished it off this summer. Got to figure the aging plastic plays a part...

[fbatwork]

I replaced mine at 65K - they was probably 25% left. I was going through everything and did them so that they did not fail later... They are close to a Porsche with the exception of the shoe size, which is unfortunate because the Porsche ones are half the price...

[Bigglezworth]

Haven't changed this part out yet on any of the trio here. 121K, 125K, 245K on each respectively. If any one of them is 'due' it's the 245K. Am goiing to be doing an EGT sensor and a couple of other odds and sods on in over the next week so I'll check things out on the two heads then.

[lswing]

Very interesting, good to hear some numbers. B, you mean 245km...lucky...I'll place weight on temps, I know my car has run hot with the tune. Cooking plastic....

[Bigglezworth]

B, you mean 245km...lucky.......242000 miles. 390000kms

[mik15]

147k miles - still the original ones, however i did change this weekend one solenoid on the driver's side . I used to leave the hood opened but it slowly killed my battery because of the alarm plus everybody wondering wtf is wrong with my car everyday :).

Bigglezworth - EGT can be replaced in situ by only removing the airbox, my mechanic did it so this weekend.

[Ms_RS6]

Replaced tensioner at 110,662

[lswing]

Replaced tensioner at 110,662

Thanks Maria! Now you're going to have to keep it for another 100k miles:)

Only one? If so drivers side?

They said my passenger one was ok, but we replaced since it was opened up. Will be interesting to inspect the part, plastic guides were worn but ok they said.

[vas160s]

Wow. Nice!

[Ms_RS6]

Thanks Maria! Now you're going to have to keep it for another 100k miles:)

Only one? If so drivers side?

They said my passenger one was ok, but we replaced since it was opened up. Will be interesting to inspect the part, plastic guides were worn but ok they said.
Sold her in April of this year :-(

This is what my invoice says:
15561
Labor was 3527.17 and parts were 157.28.

[mik15]

well...they didn't replace the camshaft adjuster, only the seals :) and they had to pull the engine out for that? wtf? they ripped you off or the insurance...

[Ms_RS6]

well...they didn't replace the camshaft adjuster, only the seals :) and they had to pull the engine out for that? wtf? they ripped you off or the insurance...
It wouldn't surprise me to be honest. It did have extended warranty.

[lswing]

Sold her in April of this year :-(

This is what my invoice says:
15561
Labor was 3527.17 and parts were 157.28.

Ah bummer, good car, but nice to upgrade sometimes, bit less hassle and crazy repair bills. Well looks like the cam adjusters were left alone after all. Hope they hang in for current owner, seems they last many folks at least 150k miles...

[Ms_RS6]

I definitely do not miss the crazy repair bills that's for sure. I do miss the beast, nothing out there like it.
I test drove the S6 and really liked it, but then I got into an S3, that little car surprised me and I took the corners like it was a go kart! I have one on order now and with a tune, I'll be set! :)

[Bigglezworth]

Haven't changed this part out yet on any of the trio here. 121K, 125K, 245K on each respectively. If any one of them is 'due' it's the 245K. Am goiing to be doing an EGT sensor and a couple of other odds and sods on in over the next week so I'll check things out on the two heads then.

Out with the old, and in with the new.....

Clatter be gone. :)

1567215673
1567415675

[MaxRS6]

...but then I got into an S3, that little car surprised me and I took the corners like it was a go kart! I have one on order now and with a tune, I'll be set! :)

Woot! Congrats! With luck, I'll get to see you again and the car sometime on one of my TX adventures. Good luck and have a ton of fun with the new ride.

[Bigglezworth]

More pics of the R&R effort. Both sides swapped out in 4 hours including cleaning, swapping of old/new and R&R of valve covers. Passenger side was definately in much better condition than the drivers side. No clue why one side would wear predominently more than the other, but it was significant to say the least. Passenger side took an additional hour of work to address access challenges on rear with SAI system still in place on this car. Glad I have removed the SAI on my other rides.

1568315684
1568515686
1568715688

[lswing]

Biggs, nicely done. Can I ship my car up to you next time? Hey, can you post or pm me where you got the new pads? I'm going to refurb my cam chain tensioner set and sell them. Cheers!

[DHall1]

Ditto ^^ ×2

[lswing]

Bigglez ain't so bad after all...

http://www.vorwerkauto.com/camshaft-timing-chain-tensioner-shoe-058-109-217-b-058109217b-058-109-088-h-058109088h-058-109-088-k-058109088k.html

[Turbowned]

Definitely doing this next timing belt service.... fingers crossed that they make it that long...

Has anyone replaced the actual chain(s) on the car? If so, when?

[Bigglezworth]

Has anyone replaced the actual chain(s) on the car? If so, when?Not necessary. That's the entire reason for the tensioner.

[RS8]

Although if the plastic rails are intact, how do I know that it really works properly ?


Is this the correct values on my CamshaftAngle?
Or is something wrong with my values?


15749


And what should you look for to know that it is not working as it should? (Is it only if there is a big difference between left and right that there is something wrong, or is there something more you should look for?)


And is it around 0 at idle and around 22 °KW from 3-5k rpm that is correct for a working cam adjuster?

[Bigglezworth]

Based upon what I've taken apart and put back to tegether a few times, I'd like to say that the tensioners in themselves don't alter cam timing persee.... Their design has upper and lower pistons that equally push outwards against the chain to take up slack necessary to install the cams and to further ensure that as the chain stretches ever so much with operating heat & time (mileage) that it remains taught and doesn't rattle. If your tensioner doesn't pressure up, you've got excessive grooves worn in the shoe(s), or if you've worn things bad enough to shattered a plastic shoe, then the angles of the intake cam to the exhaust could 'vary'. I say this based upon the fact thatalthough there is no physical way for the chain to (jump) teeth, if the tensioners don't pressure up sufficiently you have effectively increased the length of chain between alignment points on the sprockets on the one side while decreasing if on the other. If you tension both sides of the chain to equally take up slack, both cams will always have the same center to center alignment point, and the chain running around the sprockets for both will always keep the degreed alignment in the same place. Rob from Peter to give to Paul, and that alignment fails.

Now, that said, worn shoes will only introduce slack in the chain until the tensioner pressures up with oil. If a shoe has shattered, or of your tensioner isn't pressurizing up, you will certainly experience cam timing woes. Depending on RPM between accelerating/decelereating, I believe alter the angle of the intake cam to exhaust cam relation for a few degrees as the tailing cam (intake) catches up to the rotational requirements of the exhaust cam being driven by the ribbed timing belt. General signs of wearing tensioner shoes is audible valve clatter upon start-up that goes away in a second or two when the tentioners fill with increased oil pressure.

I was going to go to the lengths of degreeing the cams while I was overhauling various odds and sods on the one beast here, but in the end, deduced I could really only degree the exhaust cams to the crank, and that level of degreeing was done merely by tension on the ribbed belt. The exhaust cams of course use a keyway c/w plate to lock with the bar, but the sprockets for each are a tapered pressure fit and can rotate on the end of the cams prior to final seating/torquing in order to ensure the belt is snug. You do have the ability to move an exhaust cam forward or reverse a full tooth on the ribbed belt. I have merely looked to get the sprockets to rotate backwards against the crank until I hit full tension on the ribbed belt, and then torqued down the sprocket bolts.

[lswing]

There's a reading at idle that confirms a blown shoe or other severe issue. Think it's supposed to be 16? Mine was -4 I believe. Someone please refresh me on this, I think Dave may have known the numbers. Of course I was getting tons of clatter, and misfire codes. But before opening up the engine the cam adjust was confirmed to be way off via Vagcom.

Edit; As my first post on this tread states, 16-18 is good, and I logged -7, very bad. This is at idle.

[Bigglezworth]

There's a reading at idle that confirms a blown shoe or other severe issue. Think it's supposed to be 16? Mine was -4 I believe. Someone please refresh me on this, I think Dave may have known the numbers. Of course I was getting tons of clatter, and misfire codes. But before opening up the engine the cam adjust was confirmed to be way off via Vagcom.

Edit; As my first post on this tread states, 16-18 is good, and I logged -7, very bad. This is at idle.
Yep, your's were toast. The reading is for how far out the pistons are pushing. As the wear inceases, the pistons push out to take up slack, and that registers as an inceasingly negative number. There would have been pieces of plastic laying around in the head I'm sure with that low of a negative eading as the tensioner would have been extended as far as possible.

[lswing]

Yep, your's were toast. The reading is for how far out the pistons are pushing. As the wear inceases, the pistons push out to take up slack, and that registers as an inceasingly negative number. There would have been pieces of plastic laying around in the head I'm sure with that low of a negative eading as the tensioner would have been extended as far as possible.

What tensioner? :rs6kiss:

Yep, was riding on metal and the remaining plastic strewn around the head...I guess that gives a -7 reading.

[fukinavit]

There's a reading at idle that confirms a blown shoe or other severe issue. Think it's supposed to be 16? Mine was -4 I believe. Someone please refresh me on this, I think Dave may have known the numbers. Of course I was getting tons of clatter, and misfire codes. But before opening up the engine the cam adjust was confirmed to be way off via Vagcom.

Edit; As my first post on this tread states, 16-18 is good, and I logged -7, very bad. This is at idle.

Do you happen to know the group this is under in vagcom?

id like to check this out so I have an idea of wear as mine is at 200k.

[RS8]

Group 90

I have 0 or -1 °KW at idle and I have it also if I rev my engine.
but if I run and gas hard it is changed to 22°KW after 2500 rpm I think I was, but not if I run calmly then it doesn't change whatever rpm I have.

But I have another ecu that I also tested now and that one also have 0 or -1 °KW at idle but if I rev my engine standing still it changed to 22°KW after 1200rpm and holds it up to over 4000rpm ( I didn't want to rev higher standing still)

[hahnmgh63]

The variable cam timing is based off of engine speed and engine load so revving the engine in neutral won't be the same as an engine pull on the street.

[RS8]

Then the ecu that i'm driving with have the right variable cam timing tune in it and the other ecu i tested with have a wrong variable cam timing tune in it.

[EINHORN]

The whole kit, including tool, conveniently put together by your friends at Blauparts.

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GF21011-1G

Relatively cheap, remarkably so for Audi parts. With video

[nene]

Thanks for providing the information on Blauparts.com kit. That is extremely useful information.

[lswing]

^^^ Agreed, that's seems like a good little kit with most of what you would need. The cam adjust actuators themselves seem to last a very long time. In hindsight I would have just left mine as many cars have them last 200k. It's just those plastic feet that need replacing...and the bevy of seals and such while in there.

[s8prtotype]

The whole kit, including tool, conveniently put together by your friends at Blauparts.

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GF21011-1G

Relatively cheap, remarkably so for Audi parts. With video

Gotta bump this thread for that! Thank you!

Looks like this is the first issue she's going to throw at me, she runs rough on start-up randomly and this morning she flashed the light at me like the OP posted.

I also have a faint oil smell in the cabin so I think it's the rear VCG/tensioner gasket that's causing it once the car is warm.

I was going to do the sparkplugs/gaskets anyway so it'll be nice to know it's all fresh in there.

Anyone got a spare set of valve covers? my buddy powdercoats and i'd like to get them done before i tear it apart. I can have mine powdercoated for the next guy if you want a set!

I also like to delete any and all emissions crap haha, we aren't tested here. Has anyone removed all the PCV crap and put in catch cans sucessfully?

[lswing]

Service position. Do upper tb rollers, or at least check if wobbly. Drivers side easy access, pass side is in back and has sai piping in the way. You'll need an updated tune to clear cel if you remove emissions stuff.

[s8prtotype]

I know of the SAI delete/tune but i'm more curious if all the pcv stuff can be removed as well without triggering a light, then run the hoses off the valve cover to a catch can/block the rest off?

[Bigglezworth]

You'll need an updated tune to clear cel if you remove emissions stuff....OR, simply reroute the 3/16 hose feeding the one kombi valve around to the other end of the plastic T-fitting to complete a close loop and voila - no CEL.
15987

[lswing]

...OR, simply reroute the 3/16 hose feeding the one kombi valve around to the other end of the plastic T-fitting to complete a close loop and voila - no CEL.
15987

Crap, remember that now, few years back. So I can pull sai and do this, no cel for sure?

[Bigglezworth]

Crap, remember that now, few years back. So I can pull sai and do this, no cel for sure?Well, I've done it on two different cars now without any problem. That said, they both have an aftermarket tune, so until I do it on an OEM spec tune I guess I should bite my tongue...

[P1054]

For what it's worth, I did that on my car with the eurocharged tune and no CEL. I'm now running AMD's Stage 1 tune, still no CEL.

[lswing]

Yea, I assume it has nothing to do with the tune. I don't see why these tunes would have the SAI pre-coded out, you never know. I might do this next time we visit the shop, still got an leak from last time that throws CEL every few weeks. Plus less stuff under the hood is more air flow and less heat soak! Although if I stay in a warm climate I think I'll put new auxiliary radiators back in to keep engine temps down.

[hahnmgh63]

I installed two catch cans 3yrs or so back. Since the initial intake/Turbo track is almost like two 4cyl engines with two sides of the PCV system you really need two cans. I plumbed them into the lines that dump into the intake ducts just downstream from the MAF's. They do need to be the sealed type and not open as this being a Turbo engine you can get some pressurized flow but there are checkvalves in the system that should let reverse flow of pressurized air under boost.

[s8prtotype]

You have any pictures of that set-up? Did you remove the stock stuff as well? Thanks man.

[hahnmgh63]

Just plumbed them in directly off the side of each Bank in-line from the front (Plastic) pressure regulating valve to the Aluminum Intake duct just downstream from the MAF's. I used the high quality Aluminum ones from Elite engineering (about $150 each). The are two-piece and thread apart, the intake hose has some good mesh wire Brillo pad like material that lets the moisture/oil condense then slowly drip to the bottom. With an empty can most of the oil/moisture would just pass through the can so having one with a material like that is important. If you can get a plain two-piece can you could just fill it with some Brass or Stainless Brillo mesh pad material from your local hardware store.

[mrdave]

The whole kit, including tool, conveniently put together by your friends at Blauparts.

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GF21011-1G

Relatively cheap, remarkably so for Audi parts. With video

For anyone interested, here are the part numbers (I recently pieced this kit together):

Valve cover gasket set (x2): 077198025A
Tensioner gasket kit (x2): 077198217
Cam bore plug: (x2): 078103113E
Camshaft seal (x4): 068103085A
Chain Tensioner Tool: VAG 3366 (found this on ebay for $5 shipped)
Chain tensioner pads (x4): No Audi part#, check ebay or amazon, they're about $10/ea

[s8prtotype]

Full view of all the PCV crap! ew!

I'm thinking valve covers to catch cans, then catch cans to intake pipes? That's it, Correct?

http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac68/bakerized/RS6/290103900_zpsd4a70d44.png

[Bigglezworth]

Full view of all the PCV crap! ew!

I'm thinking valve covers to catch cans, then catch cans to intake pipes? That's it, Correct?

http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac68/bakerized/RS6/290103900_zpsd4a70d44.pngIncorrect engine/image.

[s8prtotype]

I was going off this site for now...

http://www.partscats.info/audi/en/?i=cat_vag_models&brand=au&number=1464&set=1465&ein=2003&f=290&hauptgr=1234567890&hg=1&grf=010390290&bf=10390&hgug=103&ug=03&parent_id=1213861

Guess I need to get a copy of ETKA some how.

[s8prtotype]

Vagfans... same image... :(

http://vagfans.info/EN/audi/RDW/RS6/RS6-RS6%20plus-Avant%20qu/2003/290/R/103/103090/ventilation-for-cylinder-block

[lswing]

I was going off this site for now...

http://www.partscats.info/audi/en/?i=cat_vag_models&brand=au&number=1464&set=1465&ein=2003&f=290&hauptgr=1234567890&hg=1&grf=010390290&bf=10390&hgug=103&ug=03&parent_id=1213861

Guess I need to get a copy of ETKA some how.

Or you could ask nicely:)...someone might give you parts list and diagram. Let me look, ETKA wasn't wanting to work on my W7 machine.

[s8prtotype]

I just wanna get ETKA for myself haha. Dont know if it'll work on windows 8?

[lswing]

I just wanna get ETKA for myself haha. Dont know if it'll work on windows 8?

I can't get my older version to install on W7 for the life of me...installed it twice on XP, transferring it over to another XP machine to try another install.

For the record, have 3 XP machines, 2 W7, 1 W8, 2 Mac...product testing!

[s8prtotype]

I'm in for the Windows 8 testing! haha

[lswing]

I'm in for the Windows 8 testing! haha

Installed fine and even a mention of a bug fix for W8, should be good, will plugin later...

[s8prtotype]

Ok, hooked up the vagcom and simply logged the start up... I'm guessing the 0.5 is my problem correct? this is block 090...

15996

Really dont wanna keep starting it and letting it run if so.

[lswing]

Here are my numbers that should be a ballpark for you. My assumption is that as the cam adjuster pad wears down, you get closer to negative numbers. The side that was reading -7 for me was completely gone and the cam chain was riding on metal, the rest of the plastic foot had shattered and was scattered about the cylinder head (I think that's correct terminology). The drivers side is much easier to open up and look at, passenger is a pain and will need to be in service position. Besides having screwed up timing and misfires you've also got those chunks of plastic floating around in your cylinder head, which I swear I could smell, extra burnt plastic smell with the exhaust.

Rough idle and flashing CEL on startup; upon scan the driver engine bank 5, 6, 7, 8 was mis-firing. Upon scanning measuring blocks (70 & 72?), the cam adjuster on driver side was reading -7 (not working), while the other reading 16 (working).

[s8prtotype]

What sucks is I don't even wanna drive it to the shop down the street I have access to, but I REALLY wanna use the lift... it clears up when warm tho still. grrr what to dooo

[lswing]

Yea, mine was really nasty and lumpy sounding. Used my insurance and had it flatbedded to a mechanic. Free towing for a breakdown seems like a common bonus with policies.

[G2]

Anyone have P/N's for the plastic guide pads? Can't get replacements thru the dealer I found out.

Some found on Ebay.....anyone?

[hahnmgh63]

For the piece of mind I would stay away from the Hong Kong sellers though.

[mrdave]

Anyone have P/N's for the plastic guide pads? Can't get replacements thru the dealer I found out.

Some found on Ebay.....anyone?

There isn't an Audi part number for just the pads. Audi wants to sell you an entire tensioner. Your only options as far as I know are ebay, Amazon, and the like.

[fbatwork]

Page 2 of this thread...

[s8prtotype]

Priced everything out, still went with the Blau Kit... just the best option at this point trust wise. The included parts in the kit look good.

My car got towed for free by amex lol, she's on the lift now, start opening her up monday. Been waiting on timing tools to show up this entire time. Can't believe how slow people can be to ship stuff.

[G2]

The KW values change based on whether the tensioner is in advanced/torque or retarded/power setting.

KW values do not, cannot, correlate to any specifiied tensioner piston position(s). It's based off the cam sensor reading.

The value is monitored and correlated as chain stretch to the DME. (it does on the newer cars)

Normally I'd mess with the base (cam) timing value to alter power characteristics. Just wish I knew both the internal engine clearances, and tolerance values to work within.
Seat of the pants I'd add in more retard (which will naturally occur with wear). Opposite of what I've done to many a NA motor over the years for most people. Not much, but enough to wake up an older engine. My best result on a 944 some years ago. Owner came back wide-eyed and joyful some weeks later.

See what happens with the new cams going in.....

[fukinavit]

just opened up mine and replaced the half moon and tensioner seals as well as cam seals and plugs. all these were leaking as I was in there to do the timing belt. I was keen to check out the tensioner pads but I had not ordered the parts. all of them looked good, only minor wear on the driver side top pad. mine has 200k (kms) on her, I just put her back together and will do them next timing belt I think.

[s8prtotype]

Both on my drivers side were in decent shape, top of the passenger side is in decent shape (minor grooves) and no cracking, pulling it completely out tomorrow.

Atleast i know they'll be fresh from here on out.

Oh yea, Cheers to removing the kombi valves, SUPER fun time on the passenger side lol.

[G2]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171006214940?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Seems to be the most "european" of the aftermarket sellers that I've found. Certainly more/most costly. No P/N's far as I know, due to being included with the tensioners....

Anyone else find them?

[EINHORN]

Blaupart # on bag GF16150, there's four of them in there.

on part 4 6 (on reverse side top) 10 100472 on bottom bar

Couldn't find any audi type part number

[lswing]

Amazon seller, says OEM, hmm? http://www.amazon.com/98-07-Timing-Tensioner-Beetle-Passat/dp/B007Z8IVHY

[s8prtotype]

easier just to get the blau kit and be done with it.

[lswing]

Einhorn, these $11 eBay ones seem to match your numbers, interesting. Not sure how much quality difference there is. http://m.ebay.com/itm/321689902335

Edit; ships from HK, no way:)

[lswing]

Unless the Blau kit is bundling cheap Chinese plastic pads...seems crucial to have the right material when riding against a chain, and no fun when they degrade.

[EINHORN]

blaus are dark brown, not the tan and there's four in the package, not two. Not being a shill, just posting what I got with the full blau kit.

[EINHORN]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171006214940?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Seems to be the most "european" of the aftermarket sellers that I've found. Certainly more/most costly. No P/N's far as I know, due to being included with the tensioners....

Anyone else find them?

These have same part numbers as the blauparts ones, different color though

[lswing]

Ok, here is the bottom of the cam adj pad that came off my stock (to my belief) cam adjusters that were replaced as whole units at 99k miles. Numbers and extra markings indicate OEM and quality control I would assume. I'm going to try and search for these. Einhorn, do you recall your markings from Blau to be identical?

http://audirssix.com/images/CamAdjPad.jpg?lbisphpreq=1

[EINHORN]

still in bag. numbers identical, including location. Mold markings not so much. no b 3, No clock-like device to the right

[lswing]

still in bag. numbers identical, including location. Mold markings not so much. no b 3, No clock-like device to the right

Interesting, thank you. I've found an eBay set that may match, well color at least, will keep looking. I'm sure most aftermarket ones are fine, I'd just hate to run into a crap Chinese one...

[hahnmgh63]

The PA 4.6 is the type of plastic used: http://plastics.ulprospector.com/datasheet/e160569/comco-pa-46
The Clock thing is the manufactured date, is that a "03 in the middle? If so that is a 2003 year with an April "4" date. Not sure about the rest. Some copies from a Mold may only copy the outer numbers but not catch the inner date and stamp. Doesn't necessarily mean it's a bad copy, it just means they copies the OEM. Doesn't necessarily mean they used PA 4.6 plastic either, just that there mold copy caught the PA 4.6 stamped into the original. "100472 probably the manufacturers part number?
Edit: http://www.cs-parts.de/index.php?a=237
same company here on Ebay.de http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-Gleitschiene-2x-Dichtsatz-Halter-Kettenspanner-Audi-2-4-2-7T-2-8-3-7-4-2-/271420294880

[s8prtotype]

Pulled the OEM units out... passenger side lower was the worse offender but it wasn't broken yet.


http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac68/bakerized/RS6/IMG_0244_zpsnlqtvena.jpg

Put the ones from the Blau kit back in....

http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac68/bakerized/RS6/IMG_0246_zpsuwrskqhu.jpg


Shes refreshed and back in time now... :)

http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac68/bakerized/RS6/IMG_0249_zps2aws2eo3.jpg

Waiting on my powdercoated valve covers to get done and my venair hoses to show up.... then it's getting fresh vacuum hoses as well.

Next up, have a feeling i'll be pulling the intake manifold after a boost leak test. It'll be nice when finished!

[hahnmgh63]

Those hoses to the Diverter valves have seen better days. Need to replace those with some good Silicone Vacuum hoses and the ones to the SAI valves in the back as they use the same hose and can be another leak culprit.
BTW, the new OEM Cam adjuster pads for my "tt", same as the RS6 pads are the same color as the new ones but they do have all of the OEM stamps and manufacturing dates, just getting ready to install a new Cam adjuster in the "tt" so I thought I would check the new unit I just received.

[s8prtotype]

Everything shady will be replaced by the time i'm done with this thing haha.

[EINHORN]

valve covers and hoses gonna match the belt for fashion sake?

[hahnmgh63]

I ordered the set of 4 pads off German Ebay. $57 with shipping. I'll post when they show up and let you know if they are copies or OEM also. I already got my tracking number from Deutche post so it shouldn't be long.

[s8prtotype]

valve covers and hoses gonna match the belt for fashion sake?

Can't see the belt so no... :)

Valve covers are going to be wrinkle red (later RS cars all had red), and the front boost pipe got a fresh coat of silver :)

I wont use silicone vacuum hose as it's collapsed under a little heat in my past turbo cars, the cheap black rubber stuff will work fine.

I'm loving how much more room removing the SAI gives, VC is easier to get off...but still hating the fuel lines and water pipe on the passenger side tho haha.

[hahnmgh63]

With Silicone lines you have to be careful. Good quality High temp stuff out there (better temp than rubber). You just need to stay away from the cheap Ebay/rice stuff from China which is about as low of quality as you can get.

[s8prtotype]

RS cars should have red valve covers :)


http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac68/bakerized/RS6/rs6-valve%20covers_zpssfytpi2u.jpg

[s8prtotype]

Confirmed these were the issue with my car thus far. Either that or the gasket was leaking pretty bad and not letting oil stay up in there? There was the famous oil smell in the car after warm from the passenger side.

Anyway, new pads on the oem tensioners and a fresh gates belt cleared it all up so far. :)

[415RS6]

Can anyone give feedback on the Blauparts enhanced valve cover set? How is their quality? Did the tensioner pads fit well? How have the seals been holding up?

[AndyRS6]

First set installed 3 year ago in 2002 A6 4.2, everything fit good, planning to do it again - timing belt set and valve cover enhanced set soon.

6 month ago installed in RS6 -valve cover enhanced set and timing belt set.
Pads fit well, just need to make sure you push them all the way.



Andriy

[agent5150]

What is the average cost of replacing cam adjuster for both sides?

[Aronis]

Too much!

[lswing]

What is the average cost of replacing cam adjuster for both sides?

OEM adjusters, $1,500 for the pair. Or just do pads, $50...the adjusters themselves can last a long time, but you never know.

Labor, $1,500-2k. Or do it yourself and hope you don't blow up the engine!

Parts, labor, and a few other small fixes I paid $3,800 last year...

[lswing]

Too much!

That's the answer for everything with this car, ha!

[Aronis]

Oh FOR GOD SAKE don't forget the 52 bolts at $1.24 each, can't reused the old ones! They are "Stretch Bolts" what ever that is! Part Number WHT002015, my local VW place wanted $2.56 each! A VW dealer in George had them for $0.84 each but only had TWO in stock. Pelican has them for $1.50 but not in stock, ECS has them for $1.24 but also not in stock. Got them from Audi Dealer, took two days, $1.24 each. :) Special Bolts for a Special Car, and I guess the ONLY AUDI to use such bolts is the RS6, otherwise my guy would have remembered to tell me to get them when I got the FRIGGEN CCT, so I could get them in one three hour round trip. You sensing the anger?

By the way the part number with the P for the CCT was first put into use 1/1/2007. So if you have an "E" it's the original.

Mike

(For sale soon....)

[agent5150]

OEM adjusters, $1,500 for the pair. Or just do pads, $50...the adjusters themselves can last a long time, but you never know.

Labor, $1,500-2k. Or do it yourself and hope you don't blow up the engine!

Parts, labor, and a few other small fixes I paid $3,800 last year...

Appreciate the details. Helps in planning annual budget for this car.