Rough start, flashing CEL, here are the codes...

[lswing]

Started up after a few days of sitting, get this, low on fuel is the only that I can notice from the outside. Any ideas, should I clear and start again?

Address 01: Engine Labels: 077-907-558-BCY.lbl
Part No: 4D1 907 558 D
Component: 4.2l V8/5VT G03 0003
Coding: 0006752
Shop #: WSC 00066 444 45211
VCID: 2F6310F9BD2A496632D-515A

3 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 -
16692 - Cylinder 8
P0308 - 001 - Misfire Detected
16690 - Cylinder 6
P0306 - 001 - Misfire Detected
Readiness: 0000 0000


Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 4B0-820-043-MY2.lbl
Part No: 4B0 820 043 AR
Component: 4B0820043AR A6-Klimavoll
VCID: 6AD5C1ED1648EC4E253-2586

1 Fault Found:
01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

[lswing]

It's been sitting on the trickle charger a lot recently, could this have put too much back into the system? Basically drive around town once a week right now, garage the rest of the time. Smelled a bit funny after startup, exhaust didn't smell right, kinda burnt, for some reason; crappy gas or just whatever collected in bottom of tank not burning as clean?

Fuel filter outside of tank replaced last year.

Found one thread leading to MAF connectors being replaced for the fix.

[lswing]

Added fuel, restarted, serious clicking noise from engine, front area it seems. WTH?

No CEL yet, just let it run for 30 seconds.

It was just fine when I parked last week, been driving hardly at all the last few months.

Edit; It's been clicking lightly on startup for a while now, and maybe when running, never seemed like much though. Been reading some of the threads on Cam Tensioners and such?

[LIRS6]

recently I had a "cylinder 8 misfire" after car sat for about a week, cleared up after running it for a while.

[lswing]

recently I had a "cylinder 8 misfire" after car sat for about a week, cleared up after running it for a while.

Was it clicking there there was a rabid squirrel stuck in there?:mech: Seriously been fine and tuned up good from what I can tell. It's still lumpy, but didn't throw a code after a minute of running the second time after adding fuel. The noise is very concerning, something is off...looking around for my list of shops in Austin.

[lswing]

Here's some video/audio....heavy clicking from drivers side.

<iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/M4UqtyX-9yw?rel=0" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>

[LIRS6]

The noise is very concerning, something is off...looking around for my list of shops in Austin.
subsequent to the misfire, dealer had to replace the brake master cylinder. service writer made a comment to me that the tech thought he heard an odd (engine) noise, nothing came of it and the car has been running strong. i'll stick my ear in the engine bay tonite though, and report if i hear anything ...

[RSoverAll]

My car did that once and it turned out to be soft set carbon buildup on the intake valves. Poor fuel quality was the cause, I believe. I went out of town for a week and left the car at the airport parking when I got back it started right up but cel flashing and a p0304, p0305 then a random/multiple cylinder p0300 logged. Thought maybe the injectors or coils were the cause initially but swapping them to different cylinders disproved that theory.

I ran a can of seafoam through the brake booster hose into the intake manifold then took to the freeway right after and all was well again.

[RSoverAll]

Here's some video/audio....heavy clicking from drivers side.

<iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/M4UqtyX-9yw?rel=0" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>


sounds like an exhaust leak??

[lswing]

My car did that once and it turned out to be soft set carbon buildup on the intake valves. Poor fuel quality was the cause, I believe. I went out of town for a week and left the car at the airport parking when I got back it started right up but cel flashing and a p0304, p0305 then a random/multiple cylinder p0300 logged. Thought maybe the injectors or coils were the cause initially but swapping them to different cylinders disproved that theory.

I ran a can of seafoam through the brake booster hose into the intake manifold then took to the freeway right after and all was well again.

Intersting, it's been sitting a lot recently, and although 93 octane I've filled at a few random stations.

The ticking seems more of an internal click than a ticking exhaust to me, it's fairly loud.

[MaxRS6]

My cam tension rattle sounded different from your noise. I've had misfire codes in the past that new coil packs resolved. You might change your coil packs around and see if the codes follow the coil pack.

Oil level okay I assume.

Good luck finding an inexpensive resolution.

Less than .03 worth.

[lswing]

My cam tension rattle sounded different from your noise. I've had misfire codes in the past that new coil packs resolved. You might change your coil packs around and see if the codes follow the coil pack.

Oil level okay I assume.

Good luck finding an inexpensive resolution.

Less than .03 worth.

Oil level is good. Tried revving it to 2,500 some, didn't hear loud clicking until it settled back down to high idle at ~900.

Maybe unrelated, but pumped brakes twice while car was off and could hear wheezing air, solid pedal with no wheezing on third.

Now no codes or CEL, hmmmm

By inexpensive you mean under $1,000 right? :)

[Bigglezworth]

In my old 'hot rodding' days, that sound signified a blown exhaust manifold gasket or a spark plug that wasn't totally seated. Peel your air cleaner housing off, separate the MAF's from it if you already haven't performed this simple mod, and insert MAF's in to the down pipes all hooked up. Then use an engine stethascope to see if you can pin point the exact location of the noise. If you don't have the scope, use a 3/8"dia hose to your ear. Works well to isolate location. Check your plugs to ensure they are hand torque tight. It's quite noisy 4 feet away, so it should be easy to isolate I would think.

[lswing]

In my old 'hot rodding' days, that sound signified a blown exhaust manifold gasket or a spark plug that wasn't totally seated. Peel your air cleaner housing off, separate the MAF's from it if you already haven't performed this simple mod, and insert MAF's in to the down pipes all hooked up. Then use an engine stethascope to see if you can pin point the exact location of the noise. If you don't have the scope, use a 3/8"dia hose to your ear. Works well to isolate location. Check your plugs to ensure they are hand torque tight. It's quite noisy 4 feet away, so it should be easy to isolate I would think.

Thanks Bigglez. Oddly enough I was musing about why I'm smelling more gas/oil in the garage, like the engine is leaking before exhaust. With my screwy back I'm mostly a keyboard mechanic, so I'll add this to the list when she goes in for diagnostic.

[905084]

Why don't you drive her for a week and beat on her a bit? It's surprising how many problems a car that sits accrues. "Men and ships rot in port.....and RS6's too"

[mik15]

i'd start by checking the spark plugs and coils if they weren't done recently, also check the wiring at the cilinders' coils where the misfiring has been logged, i had a similar issue caused initially by a bad spark plug, then by a loose plug connector and shortly after fixing it the coil died, that took me a week to troubleshoot it as they all came in a row and didn't know exactly where to look for it...

also log the camshaft adjuster measuring blocks in vcds and check if they're both working properly...

[lswing]

Why don't you drive her for a week and beat on her a bit? It's surprising how many problems a car that sits accrues. "Men and ships rot in port.....and RS6's too"

I've been worried that it's been sitting so much. Driven about 10 miles every 7-10 days for the last 3 months. Basically just hot as hell and I've been working from home, so no real need to put miles on. IF it didn't smell funny then I might do that, but there is an odd burnt oil/unburnt gas smell that just wasn't there before, maybe just imagination....

[lswing]

i'd start by checking the spark plugs and coils if they weren't done recently, also check the wiring at the cilinders' coils where the misfiring has been logged, i had a similar issue caused initially by a bad spark plug, then by a loose plug connector and shortly after fixing it the coil died, that took me a week to troubleshoot it as they all came in a row and didn't know exactly where to look for it...

also log the camshaft adjuster measuring blocks in vcds and check if they're both working properly...

Sounds good. Plugs and packs have been on for xxxx miles, plugs looked good last time checked. Block numbers to log, and can this be done while at idle.

I'm wondering why the hell the code won't pop back up right away, even though it's still rough and noisy; shouldn't a code like misfire show up right away? Possible damage being caused by said misfire?

[SteveKen]

Before you get hip deep in evil...

As a sanity check, pull the serpentiine belt and start it up. Sometimes the alternator, A/C compressor/clutch or serp tensioner can cause a racket the reverberates everywhere.

Plus if the sound still remains, the other sounds of the accessory driven items will be silent enough to do more 'root-causing'.

[lswing]

Thanks Steve.

Fired it up for the tow truck, lumpy idle, clicking, flashing CEL again. Guessing same codes. Going down to Brink Motorsports, Mike has worked on these before, and will scan once it arrives. I'll pass on any info.

Thinking about getting that alternator replaced/rebuilt while she's down there, still stock from what I know, and been suffering under the heat and AC draw.

[lswing]

Update; shop scanned, misfire on 5,6,8 this time, not just 6,8 like I first had. Thinking cam adjuster, pass side...

[mik15]

i have a dead cam adjuster as well, but the car runs fine, no misfiring codes, no strange sounds, mine is on driver side, you might have some broken chain guides due to the clicking noise, but these were just as rare as my failed cam adjuster on these cars, so i don't really think that's what it is in your case....plus mine is at 143k miles, yours has a lower mileage...funny though, my cam adjuster also failed after having the car parked for a week or so....

[lswing]

i have a dead cam adjuster as well, but the car runs fine, no misfiring codes, no strange sounds, mine is on driver side, you might have some broken chain guides due to the clicking noise, but these were just as rare as my failed cam adjuster on these cars, so i don't really think that's what it is in your case....plus mine is at 143k miles, yours has a lower mileage...funny though, my cam adjuster also failed after having the car parked for a week or so....

Looking at the details of a cam adjuster I could see it getting sticky with lack of use. How do you know the cam adj has failed if no issues? Scan right, maybe failing but not failed? Broken guides on startup, assume they will show upon inspection. Thanks!

[mik15]

i had no idea mine failed, if i hadn't done a scan wouldn't have known...then i realized that i couldn't hear anymore that clicking sound between 1100-1250rpm, so it all became clear that my adjuster doesn't work any-longer...i suspect is my solenoid which failed, i don't think the adjuster got stuck....will change the solenoid over the weekend and it should shed some light whether my theory is right or not...

[lswing]

Passenger side was reading 16, failed drivers side reading -7...

You should get an electrical code if the solenoid has failed. Also it's your drivers side failing right? Here's to our passenger side lasting until 200k!

[mik15]

well, i have a short to plus error, and if unplug it i get open circuit error, this is why i presumed mine could be a faulty solenoid, keep my fingers crossed, i should find out in the weekend...also driver side...

i think if yours reads -7 then it got stuck, mine reads -1.5 and moves up to 0.5, but that's all, it doesn't go any further, unlike the passenger side which goes through the whole range...