a few error codes - at least 1 seems dangerous

[mik15]

so, did a scan today, out of the blue and these came up:

http://i61.tinypic.com/2ia982a.jpg

after i cleared them, 16406 didn't come back, however i didn't drive the car after clearing them, only idling and then re-scanned it.

I didn't notice any poor performance, i came from a 60mile trip, and all seemed ok.
My concern is the 17942 code, the EGT one doesn't worry me that much, i can fix it hopefully with just re-soldering the wires, as the DIY here on the forum.

What i did notice, after doing the scan, was that the typical noise i had between 1100rpm - 1200rpm is no longer present, so that means that the tensioners don't work anymore.

Anyone has any clues? should i go ahead and buy new tensioners or could be the solenoids?

[MaxRS6]

The tensioners are what resolved my issue when I had the above error code. I had them do both while they were in there. All good after that and the rattle was all but gone. I rarely hear the rattle.

[mik15]

any possible issues if i keep driving it as it is now until i get the parts replaced?

[MaxRS6]

I don't know- Hopefully the tech peeps will pipe in

[mik15]

ok, so did a bit more troubleshooting today and here's what i came up with:

- firstly, i have unplugged the connector, scanned it again and i get ''open circuit' error, as soon i connect back the plug it goes back to ''short to plus'' error, also checked the wiring and nothing seems to be wrong with it
- secondly, logged the meas. blocks and bank 1 does work while bank 2 obviously doesn't,

these led to me believe that the wiring is ok and that the problem might actually be the solenoid, that is where the "short to plus" is happening, being so this is why i am not also able to perform the test and find out if mechanically is working, the solenoid does not get any command into action due to being dead...

anyone has any other suggestion on how to test this thing anymore?

MaxRS6 - do you still have the old adjusters? i'd like to give it a shot and check the solenoids, i'll pay for it whatever you think it's fair...i'll go see my mechanic tomorrow as he might have some old adjusters laying around, but just in case if someone has some old ones that would bea back up plan...

i wonder if this would work: http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/06F109257C/ES281138/#

[MaxRS6]

^I don't have the old ones

[hahnmgh63]

Sounds like a bad adjuster. Try putting 12V at it with the engine off and see if you can hear it click. If not then it is definitely bad. The are as you described, just a Solenoid, on or off. There is a Vagcom measuring Block that also shows the timing of them on or off but off the top I can't remember which one. I doubt you would do damage just driving but then maybe the little Teflon spacers on the tensioner stuck or something so you may need to get it replaced? I would chance it.
That very well might be the same Solenoid that goes in the tensioner and a much easier fix if it's just the Solenoid but if not your out the money. The left side (5~8) tensioner is 077109087P and the right (1~4) is 077109088P. Not cheap by any means but it is the replacement that is a pain. I do believe the left one is in the front and right one is in the back. Anyone confirm?

[mik15]

my faulty is one in the front, bank 2 which is driver side. However, if the solenoid is out then there is now way to find out if mechanically it works, this is why i would like to first change the solenoid and take it from there, it could be just the solenoid so that would save me quite a lot of bucks, i'd rather buy the new adjuster and get the solenoid out of it, at least i'd spare the labor and time off for the car :)

still researching....

[mik15]

so went today to my mechanic, 100 mile trip from where i live, but it does worth it and i do it every time i need something done on the car, even for an oil change i do the trip. The guy has never let me down, he is by far the best mechanic i have ever known.

back to my error codes story.

1. cam adjuster was the one that really got me concerned, luckily my theory proved to be right. So we took out the old solenoid, tested at 12V, nada, so it was dead indeed. Now, because i couldn't find a new solenoid as they don't come as separate part, really cant' understand why, he looked through his storage and found an old cam adjuster from a V8 Audi engine and we tested the solenoid, all good an working, mounted on my cam adjuster and all is perfect.

2. EGT sensor - this was to be the great breakthrough of the day, the cake on the ice, as i didn't really think i would get it sorted. Started initially by trying the DIY posted here by Mark, opened the EGT and i literally saw black in front of my eyes, the black potting was there, tried to scrape it out but no luck, so i was about to give up. Then he says, let's take the airbox out and let me work out a way. At this point i told him, listen, everybody says it can't be done unless you either pull the engine out or at least drop it a few inches. He doesn't listen to me and keeps on removing the airbox, i say wtf, worse case scenario i'll lose some time.
He gets the airbox out, analyses the situation and says, ok, i'll be able to do it, just need to make a tool and should work.
And so was it, a few hours later, because we had to let it cool down, there i was with a replaced EGT as well and all put together.

So EGT sensors can be replaced quite easily :jlol:.

The other good thing of the day was that i got to take for a spin the new S6, he had one there, his boss's car, he left it for rear brake pads replacement, that is a great machinery, totally different than ours, power delivery is so smooth and the car feels quite very light, i didn't do any launches but the owner really trashes the car, he is complaining he has to change the pads every 6k miles and he is looking into upgrading to ceramics. The car also has a nice Supersprint cat-back exhaust which sounds very good, not very intrusive inside the car but enough to make you feel the power. Great car and i hope i'll get to drive an RS6 C7 also just for comparison. Ours feel more hardcore, these have become much more civilized, not sure whether it really is a good thing, but at least the drive-train is holding up pretty well considering that this particular S6 has about 40k miles done in a year and has probably seen so many launches and trashing that not too many see that, so just as my mechanic said, if the car has survived so far to this owner without any issues, it is a strong car :) .

I am a really happy bunny today as i am error free! and what a nice 100 mile ride back i had :addict::rs6kiss:

[lswing]

You're pissing me off:) But really good to hear, great work by you guys! I'm still in the shop, hoping it's less than $3k!

[mik15]

i hope you're getting yours back soon :race: . please keep the old adjusters as i will get it off you as i said. good luck Lou!

[Jimmy]

Great news on the EGT replacement being not as hard as I thought...got a picture of his 'tool' that he made? My shop needs one of these...

[mik15]

well it wasn't such a special tool, he took a spanner that you'd normally use to tight the EGT nut and made a few mods to it as in the picture i attached below...he kept the wrench and said that for future use he would extend the handle at an angle that would allow him to turn it with a greater force, but even in this configuration it was just good. He used some wd40 before unfastening the nut, tapped it a bit and then came out really easy...

you'd also need to pull back a little the engine wiring that sits on that are of the firewall to give you some space in order to have a clear view to the EGT, basically looking down to it you should see the turbo, the turbo actuator, part of the exhaust manifold...just to give you an idea of how much to pull back the engine harness, only as much as it lets you, don't have to push it too much.

I hope my explanation is helpful :)

the wrench below is not the exact same size, but same shape, you have to use the ring end, the open end is useless as it won't allow enough grip, but the ring end with a slice out just small enough to allow you to get the EGT wire through, will do it.

15557