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hahnlogic
August 25th, 2014, 19:03
Hello guys / girls, Im new to this forum just looking for advice...

Long story short, My father-in-law is getting rid of his 03 rs6 auto he is the 2nd owner, and getting a new s7. The rs6 has 74k on the odometer, he's asking me to give him 15k for it. Does that sound about right? Can get more details if need be. Car has a chip module that is plug in a play, that remaps car, just need to add race gas (0=. Car also has a new cat-back exhaust. I believe it's 3" or 2 1/2 all the way back, and k&n air filter. My main questions is what should i be looking as preventative maintenance. I don't know if audis are the same as vw, but i had a vw tdi, and needed to change the timing belt at 100k, is it the same rule of thumb, also heard from someone that the auto trans will need to be gone through around 100k?

Also what else should i be looking at for visual inspection? oil by turbos? pull off turbo piping see if oil is inside pipes. Pretty much what normally craps out on these between 75-100k. Any help would be much appreciated. If you need me to give more details i would be happy too!

Car is set up to race, but father-in-law never beat on it, maybe spooled it up here and there, but nothing really hard! I do live in Wisconsin, so don't know if salt / snow effects these cars.

Thank you for any additional info!

ben916
August 25th, 2014, 19:50
Not to be rude, but is this a joke?!?!

VW TDI != RS6

If you are truly obtaining an RS6 for $15k with the chip and exhaust, good-on-ya! (Get rid of the K&N crap, you will thank yourself later without all the MAF troubles)

Audi maint manual abbreviated:

Step 1. remove engine.
Step 2. open wallet


Not to be negative, but lurking and reading threads would clue you into what the heck is going on with these cars.
Also if you choose to purchase this car, you are RIGHT at the edge of said 75k timing belt change ($$$$ and 40k intervals)

Stand by..

Photos???

hahnlogic
August 25th, 2014, 20:55
I do apologize, I didn't mean to make it seem like vw = audi. Just was meaning maintenance scheduling. Thanks for your complete honesty Ben. I will post pictures. Anything in particular you are looking for? After posting I found the maintenance scheduling, but just want to clarify that when you meant the 40k intervals, your stating that i replace timing belt every 40k?

905084
August 25th, 2014, 21:44
Between 75 and 100k pretty much everything craps out on these cars. Price sounds good, but you are probably looking at between $5000-$8000 in deferred maintenance unless you can do it all yourself. Salty roads don't seem to affect the car too much but the potholed roads tear up the suspension. I'm assuming the "chip" is GAIC since you mentioned "race" gas?

"If you have the means, I'd highly recommend picking one up" Ferris Bueller

ttboost
August 25th, 2014, 22:24
Unless you're handy, and can work on your own cars, you better have a few bucks in the bank. This car can bankrupt you if you don't pay attention. Not trying to scare you, just a dose of reality. Does your FIL have any of the records? Do you know what it cost to maintain this car? You are in the right place to find out, start searching before you commit. The price of entry is not indicative of future ownership costs. This car was and always will be a $85k car...even though you can buy it for a song now...consider yourself warned...

lswing
August 25th, 2014, 22:27
Timing belt every 35k I believe, some do it sooner, it's more the rollers that break. Price seems good if it's in great shape, but will need $2-3k for the current maintenance. Trans/TC could go at anytime, that's $4-8k. Lots of little things can get spendy, but can be a very solid car. Just be prepared to drop some money when needed. You'll want to know a good mechanic, priceless...

Edit; VINs past 90550 approximate have better trans/TC.

lswing
August 25th, 2014, 22:29
"If you have the means, I'd highly recommend picking one up" Ferris Bueller

So good...

Ferris: Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.

Avus-RS6
August 26th, 2014, 02:04
Put 50% of that purchase price in the bank for repairs/maintenance that you WILL need in order to keep it on the road for a couple more years, depending on how much you drive it. All in all, it sounds like a good fair price for that mileage. Still, get an inspection done to make sure it doesn't need $10K in repairs now.

DHall1
August 26th, 2014, 05:17
We own such pieces of dung.

Haha, why would anyone want one.

That should drop prices another 40 percent.

Now sell me your RS6.

hahnlogic
August 26th, 2014, 15:32
I really appreciate everyone's input. I do have the means to take care of this car financially, I just don't want to blow it up. The timing belt has not been changed and it has 74k on it, so my first thing to do is to change that. Would like to do it myself is there a nice kit w/ water pump and rollers that people would recommend, and also is there a tutorial at all? I followed a tutorial for my vw tdi and it was a pain in the a$$, but worked well and had to lock cam so it wouldn't roll while doing install. Also what needs to be done with the tranny that costs 4-8k? is it a rebuild? "but will need $2-3k for the current maintenance. Trans/TC could go at anytime, that's $4-8k." from lswing.

Really appreciateall the help!!!

hahnlogic
August 26th, 2014, 15:34
Unless you're handy, and can work on your own cars, you better have a few bucks in the bank. This car can bankrupt you if you don't pay attention. Not trying to scare you, just a dose of reality. Does your FIL have any of the records? Do you know what it cost to maintain this car? You are in the right place to find out, start searching before you commit. The price of entry is not indicative of future ownership costs. This car was and always will be a $85k car...even though you can buy it for a song now...consider yourself warned...

Im sorry ttboost i don't know what you mean by "Does your FIL have any of the records?"... I have all records with maintenance / upgrades.

Avus-RS6
August 26th, 2014, 15:48
Sounds like you're handy... I'd buy the car and enjoy it. Trannys don't always blow up but they are a major fail point of these cars. You should change the trans fluid while you're doing your service, as it is not lifetime like Audi indicates.

Other_Erik
August 26th, 2014, 16:02
I really appreciate everyone's input. I do have the means to take care of this car financially, I just don't want to blow it up. The timing belt has not been changed and it has 74k on it, so my first thing to do is to change that. Would like to do it myself is there a nice kit w/ water pump and rollers that people would recommend, and also is there a tutorial at all? I followed a tutorial for my vw tdi and it was a pain in the a$$, but worked well and had to lock cam so it wouldn't roll while doing install. Also what needs to be done with the tranny that costs 4-8k? is it a rebuild? "but will need $2-3k for the current maintenance. Trans/TC could go at anytime, that's $4-8k." from lswing.

Really appreciateall the help!!!

If timing belt hasn't been changed (ever), it needs done _now_ - recommended service interval is 40k, experience teaches us 35k is about the limit. Don't buy just any kit, you don't know the quality of parts. Gates Racing timing belt is a MUST. I'm not going to start a holy war over who offers the best kit, but I can at least say if it doesn't include the Gates belt, and the water pump, it's not worth the box it's being sent to you in. I believe we have a writeup in the writeups thread (stickied to top of the RS6 forum area). This is the $2-3k current maintenance noted earlier.

You're going to get really familiar with "Service position" - this either means in your garage with the front bumper off/cocked down, or you bent over a barrel at any indy shop (no lube at the stealership).

The $4-8k cost they're talking about for tranny is a rebuild of existing. At the same time, budget $2k for a torque converter (more if you want hardened), and if you're not intimately familiar with the fitment, another $1500-2k for labor to get that bad boy out and replacement in.

O_E

DHall1
August 26th, 2014, 16:05
Search is now your friend. We have covered all these items in great detail along with diy

40000 dollar engine that many a Audi dealer have screwed up performing timing belt jobs. So be warned. This is nothing like the tdi.


?
I really appreciate everyone's input. I do have the means to take care of this car financially, I just don't want to blow it up. The timing belt has not been changed and it has 74k on it, so my first thing to do is to change that. Would like to do it myself is there a nice kit w/ water pump and rollers that people would recommend, and also is there a tutorial at all? I followed a tutorial for my vw tdi and it was a pain in the a$$, but worked well and had to lock cam so it wouldn't roll while doing install. Also what needs to be done with the tranny that costs 4-8k? is it a rebuild? "but will need $2-3k for the current maintenance. Trans/TC could go at anytime, that's $4-8k." from lswing.

Really appreciateall the help!!!

lswing
August 26th, 2014, 16:06
I really appreciate everyone's input. I do have the means to take care of this car financially, I just don't want to blow it up. The timing belt has not been changed and it has 74k on it, so my first thing to do is to change that. Would like to do it myself is there a nice kit w/ water pump and rollers that people would recommend, and also is there a tutorial at all? I followed a tutorial for my vw tdi and it was a pain in the a$$, but worked well and had to lock cam so it wouldn't roll while doing install. Also what needs to be done with the tranny that costs 4-8k? is it a rebuild? "but will need $2-3k for the current maintenance. Trans/TC could go at anytime, that's $4-8k." from lswing.

Really appreciateall the help!!!

TB kit and labor, $2-3k, maybe with a few other small things thrown in. You can find some threads on here for the TB, seems you'll want to have a good skill set.

You could flush the trans, add new fluid and filter for $4-500. This is debatable by some, the adding new fluid to an old trans. What is your VIN#, this really does make a difference.

The $4-8k is for a new/rebuilt trans. I've had it done twice. Rebuilt trans for $3500, $500 shipping, $2,000 labor, $500 rebuild torque converter. Thrown in another $1k for random parts and labor.

If the car is in good shape and has a VIN past 90550 you should be good.

What did you mean by race prepped? Suspension? Sway bars? Brakes, fluid, IC's? Not a whole lot else you can do.

I'm guessing this is a Revo tune with SPS tool for the adjustable tune? Revo is dangerous, it doesn't add fuel when it adjusts boost and timing. Talk to me down the road if you're messing with it...

Edit; We will each need a sum of $250 deposited directly into our accounts for the cost saving advice...this will immediately go to repairs in most cases. Actually, once I spent a good year or two having many old/failing parts fixed, she's mostly new in many areas, and good for another 80,000 miles at least.

hahnlogic
August 26th, 2014, 17:08
Awesome lswing.. you give me the account and we will see if i have any money after all these checks / repairs. The car has been worked on and upgraded at kelly-moss in madison Wisconsin, if anyone knows of the place. I did put in a request to find out everything that went into the car. All i know from looking at receipts is they put 2 "high" performance intercoolers and i wasn to say an "AWS ECU" chip, but i could be wrong on name, but once i get the info i will post it. Other than the intercoolers and chip. Don't know if i posted this before but the chip has different "keys" when i would add the race gas 110 octane, then i would plug this key into the ODB-II plug. "This is what i've been told from father-in-law, he has never used them", and i haven't seem them yet.

-No upgraded Sway bars or fluid
-He put ceramic pads in there(don't know if they came stock with them)
-No upgraded suspension, just replaced / worked on at 50-60k
-Upgraded inter coolers.

After looking at the dyno sheets the car is making 497hp to the flywheel on 93 octane. To me it seems kinda weak when the car came with 450hp stock, but i could be wrong.

The vin is WUAPV64B13N905310, so that means i don't have to worry about tranny rebuild? just flushing fluids?

Potential upgrades down the road, after all the maintenance is done...
1.) boost gauges / controllers
2.) sway bars
3.) either replace or upgrade the turbos (if i do this, would i need to start looking into a front mount IC?)
4.) port / polish heads

After these upgrades would i need to do anything or watch for anything in lower half of motor (i.e. crank bearings, pistions).

DHall1
August 26th, 2014, 17:13
If the chip is AWE

Beware

Thats all im gonna say. It would cause me to pass on the car.

lswing
August 26th, 2014, 17:15
The vin is WUAPV64B13N905310, so that means i don't have to worry about tranny rebuild? just flushing fluids?

Potential upgrades down the road, after all the maintenance is done...
1.) boost gauges / controllers
2.) sway bars
3.) either replace or upgrade the turbos (if i do this, would i need to start looking into a front mount IC?)
4.) port / polish heads

After these upgrades would i need to do anything or watch for anything in lower half of motor (i.e. crank bearings, pistions).

Actually it's after the ~905500 build when they got better, think I was missing a zero, so yours could go at anytime. But you never know...

You can't really upgrade turbos unless you do the manual trans swap, no space. You can hybrid the current ones for a bit of gain, still another $4k. Plus you're need to do fueling and tuning, very spendy, there is a thread about this right now.

Side IC's are not a problem, no need for front mount. If you get the tune dialed in more ~520 engine hp is reasonable. The big difference in your tune is the torque, you go from ~425 stock to ~550 tuned, and this also eats up the transmission, be warned.

I broke the original trans at 90k, broke the next one at 95k, on number three...

hahnlogic
August 26th, 2014, 17:33
If the chip is AWE

Beware

Thats all im gonna say. It would cause me to pass on the car.

Is there a reason why to be aware? Do you have a personal experience with this? It's been on the car for about 2-3 years

hahnlogic
August 26th, 2014, 17:42
Actually it's after the ~905500 build when they got better, think I was missing a zero, so yours could go at anytime. But you never know...

You can't really upgrade turbos unless you do the manual trans swap, no space. You can hybrid the current ones for a bit of gain, still another $4k. Plus you're need to do fueling and tuning, very spendy, there is a thread about this right now.

Side IC's are not a problem, no need for front mount. If you get the tune dialed in more ~520 engine hp is reasonable. The big difference in your tune is the torque, you go from ~425 stock to ~550 tuned, and this also eats up the transmission, be warned.

I broke the original trans at 90k, broke the next one at 95k, on number three...

Ok, so look into getting the tranny rebuilt also? Now this might sound stupid, but i gotta ask it. If i'd do normally maintenance on tranny, new fluids / flush and the tranny nukes on me, would i still be able to get it rebuilt or would i have to replace it with a used one. Also you have me interested in a auto to manual swap. Is that a pain in the ass? Meaning would i have to pull the motor and tranny outta the car to replace, or would i be able to drop it from under the car? Also has anyone see / hear of a tutorial on the auto to manual swap?

Thanks so much for the help, my biggest worry now is that f-in tranny! Cuz since my father-in-law really didn't lay into it, i want to, but i don't want the tranny nuking on me on the road.

lswing
August 26th, 2014, 17:55
Ok, so look into getting the tranny rebuilt also? Now this might sound stupid, but i gotta ask it. If i'd do normally maintenance on tranny, new fluids / flush and the tranny nukes on me, would i still be able to get it rebuilt or would i have to replace it with a used one. Also you have me interested in a auto to manual swap. Is that a pain in the ass? Meaning would i have to pull the motor and tranny outta the car to replace, or would i be able to drop it from under the car? Also has anyone see / hear of a tutorial on the auto to manual swap?

Thanks so much for the help, my biggest worry now is that f-in tranny! Cuz since my father-in-law really didn't lay into it, i want to, but i don't want the tranny nuking on me on the road.


Regardless of fluids, trans can go. It will be the same replacement/rebuild regardless. You send yours off for core replacement usually. $3-6k depending on who you choose.

Manual swap is documented extensively on this site in multiple threads. Do a google search with the site;rs6.com, works much better. Manual swap is $8-10k...

For all of this engine/trans gets pulled, basically take the whole thing apart. You need to have an experienced indy mechanic or things can go south...permanently.

Unless you've got another car and ~$15k extra sitting around I'd keep this straight and simple. Just the TB and some other updates will set you back enough. Getting into modding this car is an expensive foray. Next step would be logging data and making sure that tune isn't running lean, then fixing that.

Quick question, is your father in law looking to cause a divorce by chance?:)

Glad to help, I should have asked more questions before diving in a few years ago myself, but damn if this isn't a great car.

Other_Erik
August 26th, 2014, 18:04
Step 1: Buy your father-in-law's RS6. Perform full Timing Belt/Water Pump service
Step 2: Find someone with a 6MT RS6 (90% of those who do the swap end up selling in the first 6 months after)
Step 3: Even swap
Step 4: ????
Step 5: Profit

hahnlogic
August 26th, 2014, 18:32
Really appreciate everyone's input!!! I will do the TB change and cross my fingers.
No actually lswing my wife wants me to buy it so it will stay in the family.... as soon as she said that i didn't question it at all.

Thanks again everyone!

DHall1
August 26th, 2014, 18:50
Yes
Yes
Yes

Awe sells giac tunes. Search

And they are slow which your dyno reflects.

Is there a reason why to be aware? Do you have a personal experience with this? It's been on the car for about 2-3 years

Turbowned
August 26th, 2014, 19:14
Basically what everyone else said: just because you're buying it for $15k (which is a fantastic price btw) doesn't make it a $15k car when it breaks. It was $86k new, which adjusted for inflation is over $107k in today's dollars. The front brake *rotors* cost more than a full four wheel brake job in some cars. Then there's the 15mpg average on premium fuel. And the ludicrous insurance. Some things however are cheap and if you're handy with a wrench you can handle the oil changes and regular maintenance items yourself (front sway bar has to come loose in order to remove oil filter; irritating but simple to do).

You gotta pay to play, but dammit are you ever rewarded by owning one of these! I've had mine for 9 months now and it's been fantastic; previous owner did the t-belt, rear brakes and two tires just before I bought it. I did the 75k myself and am just about due for front brakes, which will run me about $1k in parts with me doing the labor. Once I finish supercharging my BRZ next month I'm gonna look into a Eurocharged tune and Milltek exhaust, and Hotchkis swaybars and Bilstein coil-overs. Possibly RS4 wheels, Wagner intercoolers, APR diverter valves, catless downpipes and some upgraded fueling if budget permits!

Another cool thing: usually, 10yr-old cars fall out of favor with people. The RS6 doesn't fall victim to this as much. While the general populace won't have a clue what you're driving (just an old German car, I heard those are expensive to repair!), the enthusiasts know what it is and will give you high praise! I just started selling VW's this past weekend and the VW techs were bugging out when they saw the car :)